Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

autobahn95

95 Mushroom -

 

I can't say for sure if worn rod ends give the same symptoms as bad strut bearings. I have replaced my front struts with the KYBs (around two years ago), and was able to inspect the bearings at that time. They did not look to be needing a replacement. I would say if you're still hearing some noise up front, give them a quick test to find out for sure.

 

The way I tested the tie rods was to have someone turn the wheel back and forth while I put my hand right on the steering linkages. You could feel how the tie rod would jerk slightly when moved back and forth. One strange thing is that I also tested them another way, with car jacked up and the weight off the wheels. I tried to move the tire back and forth with my hands. This test resulted in no play or noise, yet the rod end was bad.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Good luck

Pete

droeme

Hi...I'm new to the forum. The DIC and temp indicator quit working at the same time on my '97. The temperature is still adjustable, just can't see what it's set at. The ABS and traction control have also quit, but they worked sporadically for awhile before quitting completely. All fuses seem to be OK.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks.

cmdrcody

Dear Hammen2,

 

Do you know of a source that describes problems with the mutifunction switch causing the headlights and parking lights to flash on and off?

 

I have a 1996 Aurora that the dealer replaced the mutifunction switch to address a problem with the head lights and parking lights flashing. It's three years later now and the same problem has occurred again. The multifunction switch is very expensive to replace, so I was trying to find out if some other component could also be causing this problem?

 

Thank you,

Dale

blk97aurora

My 1997's temp control has been acting up for a month. The temperature setting is changeable, but the actual temp seems to go in big jumps and not correspond with the setting. Also, outside temp display hardly ever appears anymore; it occassionally shows minus 38 degrees F. I have a spare control panel and HVAC controller (both eBay) that I plan to swap in when I have the time.

Les

hammen2

I believe the verbatim instructions for cleaning the multifunction switch were posted somewhere on either this forum, or the main Aurora one. Or, you could do a Google for "Aurora multifunction switch" and find the directions. No need to give the dealer $500+ if you're marginally handy...

Henry

The car did not start because of the security lockout feature. When this happens I just reset the alarm by pressing the reset button on the car for the alarm.

Does everyone have a rest button on their car alarm?

frankie1

Did you ever find out what was causing your car not to start, but just click. I'm having the same problem with a '97

bigdaddy12

I own a 2001 Aurora. About a week ago all of my readouts went from American to Canadian- ie MPH to KPG, PSI to KSI, F to C for temperatures. How do I get these to change back? This occures on the Odometer, temperatures, DIC, etc. Thanks for your help

jaap

Hi.
I am located in Winnipeg and just bought a 2002 Aurora 3.5
Took it for a 2000K trip last week to Regina etc. and everything seems to be fine except for two things.
First when it was very cold and when I started it I heard the famous engine knock for a few seconds but I found out this is
"normal" but seems still odd to me however it has not done it since. (parked underground)
Second the shift indicator lite on the center console seems to be burned out and from what I can find out their seems to be a way to take the cover of and is covered in a TSB.
Can you give me any help in this? TIA Jake

jaap

Hi.
Hold the ON/OFF button on the DIC (Driver Information Center) for about 3 seconds or so and it should switch back.
Good Luck. Jake

hammen2

Hi guys,

Father of a friend is looking for an '02 or '03 V-8 Aurora. He's noticed the clunking/popping from the steering on turns. I know this is the intermediate steering shaft (a common problem on the Aurora, Bonneville, LeSabre, Impala, et. al.), and that the GM-recommended fix is a lube kit which lubricates the ISS. I have heard that this problem returns after some set of miles. Anyone have any experience with this? Was there ever a revised ISS which didn't have this recurring problem?

Thanks, in advance, for any info,

--Robert

bigdaddy12

On my 2001 Aurora, I need to replace a burned out fog light, but as much as I have looked, I can't seem to figure out how to access it. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

alcan

2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
Fog Lamp Bulb Replacement - Front

Replacement Procedure
Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Remove the air deflector.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the bulb.
Remove the fog lamp bulb from the lamp housing by turning 1/4 turn counterclockwise.

Installation Procedure
Install the fog lamp bulb into the lamp housing by turning 1/4 turn clockwise.
Connect the electrical connector.
Install the air deflector.
Lower the vehicle.

2k1olds

Robert, there is a new ISS out there, but they are on a 2-3 month back order. I just had mine lubed last week, and that is what they told me.

John

evilmr

i have 2001 aurora with the 4.0 v8 with 47k on it the car is great but in the last 2 month it has been hastening in traffic lights it feel like if you were revving the engine and it want to go,so today the car start to hastening even more! again the rpm want to go down and the ecu trying to fix that so the engine light come on it say o2 sensor too lean in bank 1 and 2. i talked to a couple a guys and they told me to put new o2 sensors that the ones in the car went bad. dose that sound right

alcan

No. Sounds like it has a vacuum leak causing it to run lean.

evilmr

how???

alcan

Not sure what you mean by "how???"

sda

I recently had to replace a sidemarker lamp on my '01 4.0. I removed the headlight (2 10mm bolts), moved the light assembly to the side. I could reach the side marker light thru the opening. I also noticed that I could reach the fog light the same way. It is an easy reach and all you have to to is twist the socket, remove, and replace the bulb. Hope this helps.

sda

Just last week I had my '01 4.0 in at the dealer because of a check engine light and a transaxle malady. I had gone to the AutoZone, where they scanned the code and it indicated an 02 sensor ,rear bank. The technicians at the dealer found a vacuum leak and replaced the plenum. About a $30 part, but over $300 labor. They also found the lock up converter not disengaging, and my extended warranty replaced (they don't repair transaxles) the transaxle. I now have a GM certified transaxle with a 3yr, 50k warranty. Total bill for both repairs exceeded $4K!. Thank goodness I had bought an extended warranty!

evilmr

man you were right it is a vac leak it seems to be somewhere under the side of the intake manifold on the driver side i can not tell exactly where it is. got any hints for me?

alcan

If nothing obvious like a split vacuum hose, try spraying WD40 at the suspect area. If the idle changes, you found the leak. If not, might be worth paying a shop with a smoke machine to pinpoint it. Probably intake gaskets.

evilmr

thanks man. i will take it in

alcan

You're welcome. Let us know what you find.

95mushroom

What the heck is the black box thing next to the EGR and FPR? It has a chassis line running into it. The rubber elbow connected to it broke and I hope is setting off the SES light.

Anyone know a place to get all the rubber elbows for the car? My PCV line has both elbows are cracked/leaking and the rubber piece (also, anyone know what it is??) on top of the TB is cracked/leaking.

wolverine1

I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with a mysterious problem with its front wheels. I have taken to the dealer and a two other places and each of them told me different things. Well the problem is a noise that sounds like something winding or a tire rubbing against the car body. At first I was told it was my disk brakes, had them replaced with the pads. No luck there, the noise was still there. Then I had the tires rotated since I have directional tires, still no luck. I just had the wheel bearings replaced and still getting a bit of noise. Any ideas anyone? I'm almost fed up to the point of getting rid of this beautiful machine. Oh, I have a check engine light on as well. Was told that it was some kind of intake sensor.

sblomquist

I am having a very similar problem and was wondering if you have found a solution.

My 95 aurora lost the illumination of the instrument panel and the driver information center lights go of when headlights come on.

I have check fuses also. I believe this all happened when ipushed the eject button on the stereo.
Any info would be appreciated.

sda

Just when I thought everything on my car was addressed, and only 3 days after getting it back from the dealer with over $4k worth of repairs, the Engine Light comes back on. I am without words. Due to work schedule, I didn't take it back until about a week later, but I did call the service advisor the day the light reappeared to express my angst. On the last visit, they replaced the transaxle and intake plenum. On my return visit, they diagnosed and replaced the water pump (low coolant light came on 2 days before taking the car back), and an air pump--that from what I was told, burned up and burned the electrical wiring leading to it. Gads. Atleast, I haven't broken down inside a busy tunnel! The water pump was covered by the extended warranty, the air pump was not. So in the last 3 weeks, I still had to write a check for $1700. So Henry, here is an '01 4.0 that is a reincarnation of your '95. he he

taylorb27614

My 98 is just back from the GM dealer with a new FPR that was causing misfiring only after the engine was warm. Service tech said it was dumping way too much fuel into the rails. Car started fine cold or warm ... highway speeds were fine ... low speed (1500 RPM) was the worst. I tried swapping coils out to see if it was ignition. Surprised me.

javidogg

I got that problem fixed last month, it ended up being a bad spark plug wires, I put in new ones and the problem went away.

Javs

julieg

I don't have a solution - but have had a string of problems with lights. A couple of months after I bought the car, I had the same problem you describe. A computer part was replaced, but the problem recurred. Then found burned out tail light which had melted into the socket. Since then, have had about 10 bulbs, usually in pairs, usually including a tailight go out. All bulbs replaced 3 months ago. Now a headlamp and a tailight went out concurrently.
I wonder if there is an explanation???

Henry

The no instrument gauge thing is not new. I had it about a year and a half ago June 2003. I remember cause it happened on mom's birthday outing. No dash lights, but did have headlights. A few other people had the problem and described it that the "dash board failed to boot up." You might want to do a searh using the words "dash" and "boot up" to find thoe postings. I believe it was traced back to the ignition system. I did nothing to fix my situation, it just fixed itself.

Shhhhhhhh. I dont want the car to hear me, it might "remember" and do it again.

Henri

Henry

I should also add that when you do the search, do not limit it to this board. I do not remember which board in the owner's group the information was posted on.

frs64

I just bought a 96 for my wife for $1500.00 , and at highway speeds it blows coolant out of the coolant tank.I knew this problem existed when I bought it.Its mint other than that.The owner said it had a blown head gasket.A friend said it should have a air scoop under the bumper that appears to be missing.Any ideas would be appreciated. Motor= 4.0 v8

blk97aurora

There should be a panel about 10" wide; they often get scraped off when the front bottoms against an inclined driveway or those concrete parking lot stoppers. The purpose is to direct more air through the radiator. With it missing, your Classic will run 10 to 12 degrees F hotter. How hot is it running? It is very common the Classics to run at 220.

Les

hammen2

Definitely get the air deflector... it was only $21 through my local Buick dealer, and not too difficult to install or exchange. I thought the part number was 2567777, but I'm not sure. My '98 will normally sit just a tick under 200 when moving during most of the year... on hot (85+ degree days (A/C on), or in heavy traffic (not moving much/little airflow) it will get up into the 220-240 range.

Is it possible there's a crack in the radiator that's only exhibited at higher speeds/pressures? That wouldn't be uncommon.

Does your car have the orange Dex-Cool or the older green coolant in it? Lots of early NorthStars with the green coolant had head gasket issues. Dex-Cool (which must be changed frequently, don't follow the extended life recommendations) plus the crushed walnut pellets/seal tabs are a Really Good Idea.

--Robert

frs64

At idle it is at 200-220 degrees. On the highway it is just above 220 . The air deflector is definitely missing.The previous owner said that the head gasket is blown at a water port causing compression to enter the cooling system.

frs64

One more question.Where is the battery?

hammen2

Underneath the back seat.

Make sure the vent tubes are hooked up! Unvented battery fumes = fire/explosion risk.

--Robert

frs64

For future reference. A mechanic at buick told me that some 4.0 engines overheat because the head bolt threads get weak and allow the head to slightly seperate at highway speeds causing compression to enter the cooling system.After checking all other possibilities , I think that is my problem.Anybody know where I can get a cheap service manual.

knowido

cwiley1 did u find a way to controle the cooling fans

brandon5005

I have an olds aurora 95, i took to the shop because the hand brake light stays on and it's making the chime noise while i'm driving. The shop couldn't fix it. I had no choice but to ask them cut the wire for the chime. My questions is how do i get rid of the light? please help

Brandon

blk97aurora

When released, the parking brake pedal on my '97 does not rise as far as it should. That leaves the indicator on. I found that pulling the pedal a little bit higher with the toes of my left foot takes care of the problem (until next time). May or may not be your problem. Good luck.

Les

1slover

I've read most of the postings since I have the same problem on my 95. The reply of the dealer that it is not a paint problem is foolish since the clear coat is a paint. However, on a 90 blue Buick we had, we had a peeling problem. Taking it to the dealer got no response until we found there had been "sectret recall" due to a batch of paint having been used without the correct UV stabilizer. Does anyone know if Olds issued such a recall on the what seems to be common problem on 95's?

frs64

I took the engine out and confirmed that some of the head bolts had become loose.To repair this problem requires a tool kit called time-serts.Buick told me that for them to fix it would cost about $2000.00.Also I couldnt find the starter when I was removing the engine.Wow! ,they put it under the intake manifold.Other than the head problem I like this engine.

progers

Driver's seat goes forward but can't get it to go back. Fuses seems ok as lights slightly dim due to power drain when trying to move the seat. Does anyone have a suggestion?

frs64

Does anyone know where to buy the timesert kit for the 4.0?

blk97aurora

Phil,

I'm very interested in the answer to your question. The driver seat in my '97 will not go forward; it went all the way back and is now "stuck" there. Because it's all the way back, I cannot access the fasteners to remove the seat. According to the service manual, there is a diagnostic connector under the seat, but so far I have not been able to find it. The space under the seat is quite limited even with the seat moved as high as it will go.

Les

progers

Les, I checked it this afternoon and apparently I blew the fuses because now neither front seats will move. As luck would have it, I had an extended warranty that expired on 3/25/05. I tried calling then but it was after hours on Friday. I'm going to take the car into a dealer Monday and hope that the warranty folks will honor it. I'll let you know the diagnosis.

Phil

perk3

i'm also trying to figure out whats causing this grinding noise in the steering at low speeds, just the thought of going to the dealer makes me shudder$, but i also dont want to be killed in this heap.