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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I don't understand something here. What does the oil life monitor have to do with low oil pressure?

    Les
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    flyboy5flyboy5 Member Posts: 3
    My aurora,s oil pressure drops below the min. pressure of 6 pounds at idle in above 90 degree temp.after the car has been running normal temp.on the highway.
    I corrected it some by useing 30 hd oil in hot weather Instead of muti.grade.
    Has anyone else had the problem.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Quite possibly. I read elsewhere on the net that with the Northstar engine, sometimes the pressure regulator can get a peice of debris stuck in it. The recommended fix was replace the oil pump. I have no details as to how hard this is or if the pump and be cleaned and replaced.
    Because the engine is not rebuildable, it might be wise to go for the new pump at least if that is the fix.
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    kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    Guys the " low oil pressure " warning is just a faulty oil sending unit. This is a common problem with classics. Your oil pressure is fine. The unit is just reading it incorrectly. The unit is located right near the oil filter. You cant miss it. I believe the dealer will replace it for you for around $100.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I'll add that I changed out the sending unit myself when doing an oil change last fall. If you have the technical skills to jack your car up and change the oil, you can change this out. The unit cost me about $25 at my local Buick dealer, and it's about the size of a roll of quarters. Took me about 2 minutes to swap, definitely a no-brainer.

    Unfortunately, it did NOT fix my problem (in temps below freezing, the oil lamp on the dash will light up for a few seconds on a cold startup. I'm not hearing any noise from underhood). Doesn't do this on a warm start. I should probably do a used oil analysis and maybe change the brand of oil (switch to M1 or maybe one of the high-mileage blends - I'm at 95k on my Classic, though she's in storage until October).

    I am assuming that changing the oil pump is not an easy task? I still have a third-party warranty until January, but my local GMC dealer (used to be Olds) just closed. The hassle factor of finding a new place, battling the warranty company, et. al. has me not wanting to push this - unless it was a really expensive repair, I'd probably just try to do it with my buddy's assistance.

    --Robert
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    flyboy5flyboy5 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks guys for solving my problem of low old pressure. I think i can handle replacing the sending unit o.k.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I went through a wet spot on the road a couple of days ago. Just enough to cause a misty spray and the car started acting like I lost a cylinder or two immediately. I thought it would dry out but it's still running rough 4 days later. All, in this respect had been fine for about a year when it it got plugs and wires. I seriously doubt this is a wire issure. Just have to wonder why it suddenly went with such a light spray from below when it has been through down-pours without any trouble.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    A long time back, Alcan gave me the connections for this sensor under the hood.
    On the 14 pin transaxle connector, the terminals are:

    S, BLACK, Automatic Transmission Input Shaft Speed (A/T ISS) Sensor HIGH

    V, GREEN, A/T ISS Sensor Low

    I never did it because it appears to be hard to get at. I now have easy access to the computer and could someone give me the proper pins to check at this location.
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    jerdfxjerdfx Member Posts: 13
    Hi all, I finally got my Aurora running strong again. I've been going through alot with this car since I picked it up almost 7 months ago. It's a 96 78k autobahn crome wheels heated leather all the options. I love the car but hate the consistent wallet expenses.

    I just had a fuel injector replaced about 2 weeks ago. They kept my car for 11 days to tell me they cleaned the fuel rail out witch I just had replaced on a recall. If they actually replaced it. There conclusion of my car missfiring on the number 3 cylinder was a bad injector and at some point I got bad gas. I put a bottle of that chevron techron full fuel system treatment in it and the car went from 12 miles to a gallon to 18. I guess a combination of the new injector and the treatment went well together.

    Sorry to BS about this instead of getting to the point. But man you need a place to vent if you own a aurora. I was driving down the road with the ac on. I came to a stop light and my front right side had some smoke coming out of the hood if it were coming out were the windsheild washer fluid bottle would be. I couldn't pull over so I imedialtly shut the ac off rolled down the window's to see what the hell was smoking and it stopped.

    I got to my destination. Thought it was just a few drops of oil that hit a hot spot on the block. Looked at the engine it all looked fine. Yesterday went to use the ac and it was just blowing hot. I noticed today it sounds like it is locked up when I shut it off. I can hear a slight grind when I shut it off. I have the hood open and was listening.

    Any help or tips would be cool. I looked over it all it seems fine no leaks electrical looks good but I'm not a mechanic.

    Thanks Jeremy
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Sounds like your A/C compressor is shot. Mine did the exact same thing (noise, smoke, high temp, compressor seized and "grenaded") back in 2002.
    Welcome to a $500 (DIY) to $1000+ repair.

    Sorry I couldn't bring better news.

    --Robert
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    jerdfxjerdfx Member Posts: 13
    Thanks Robert, I figured that. What doesn't go on these cars. I have a mechanic who treats me right on the price of repairs. So it helps some with owning this car. I may let it go until I got the extra 500 or so to repair it. These olds are a nightmare and I know why they don't make them anymore.

    I am just as passionate about my olds as you guys are but they are just not worth the repairs they always need. This car has been more of a yard ornament to traffic than it runs. I'll keep the car nickle and dime it but I'll never buy a olds again.

    Thanks for the help.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I am sorry you have had so much trouble with your Classic. They are not all that way (knocking on wood).

    Fairly often one can find an eBay auction for new ACDelco a/c compressors for $317 for our Auroras. I bought one about a year ago to keep as a spare. So far (124,000 miles) I haven't needed it.

    Les
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    jerdfxjerdfx Member Posts: 13
    I know all of them aren't that way. I just got one with a rough history I think. Know one did anything to it but wash and wax it. I don't think it was maintained well. You wouldn't know it she's a beauty almost all the way around. A few minor scratches but nothing you can really see because I keep alot of wax on it. I take really good care of this car.

    You can't beat the performance for the price. It's running great right now. But I got no ac now. But that is the only problem with the car. Every button and electrical works thank god.

    Things fixed so far. 2 tune ups. Brake line replaced. fuel injector. Some seals that were leaking air some where. Back pads new fog lights wiper blades. Passenger window stopped working. Fuel rail recall.

    Now the ac all in the first 6 months of owning it. Ontop of the ammount of detail product you need on hand for this massive beauty.

    Hopefully the car will come around and go 6 months to a year without a repair.

    Thanks Jeremy
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    anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    Hello.. first I want to thank you guys for helping me with my "no power issue " i had a few months back with my 98 Aurora... turned out to be... ground wires loose and corroded .. ughh lol Now on to bigger problems lol Today, I open car door.. door chimes automatically went off for no reason.... about 9 times....then while sitting in the car( key not in the ignition yet) the door chimes ding again but this time i hear what sounds like a shorting out sound....thought it was the dash because of the heat.. so hurriedly put the car on and a/c... that shorting out sound continuing....at that point didnt notice any warning lights etc... Car behind me goin down the road tells me that my lights in the back are flashing... so i pull over... yup sure are everytime i hear that shorting out sound the lights are flashing... Make it home... take key out ... lights still flashing and door chime is still dinging... I had to un plug battery now because would run my battery out.. Any suggestions or idea's as to what the problem is ???? ANY HELP WOULD B APPRECIATED :)

    thanks.. Nete
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    skybeaconskybeacon Member Posts: 2
    Had this great car for a couple of years now. Been excellent for the most part... The usually highway shake when the brakes are applied and also when criusing seems to disapear when I have the brakes don and new pads installed.

    New Problem: Driving on highway and started to periodically kick out of Overdrive and into neutral and I'd have to pull over an turn the car off to get it to work again.... Now it does it constantly. Was reading about a shifter solenoid in some of the entries here. Anyone actually had this particular problem and overcome it?

    Thanks in advance for any info available. Love the car.. want it working right again.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I believe I posted for info about the VOV vs. FOT. Since you have blown the compressor, now would be a very good time to consider using the VOV instead.
    Anyone who has used it, when having A/C work done, I would appreciate your thoughts. Did improve mileage much?
    I found out that Autozone has availability.
    On the DIY, definitely need to pull the orifice tube (FOT) and check for contamination. If clean, it could definitely save some work of having to carefully flush the system. On the other hand, some claim it is necessary to remove any oil so that you start with a fresh system and accurately measure the total system oil in. I came across some info that seems to indicate the compressor is a HD6. Can anyone verify?
    Back to my dilema. Again more evidence of an ape having worked on this one. Along with the leaking gaskets on the duct work, one section was disconnected. I got it apart to the point of seeing the heater core. At this point it began to look like too much trouble. Maybe dump the coolant to get at the evaporator and maybe dump the freon as well. My thinking was using the kit for cleaning and deodorizing the evaporator. I think it doesn't require tear down. But in the process of putting it back together, I discovered a air leak at the rear of the case behind a couple of openings with blend doors in them. It appears that someone had this apart and didn't get it back together properly. So again, pick your poison carefully. Take it to the shop or DIY. Further, after figuring out how to get through parts of GMdirect, I see there is a filter on the evaporator. Can anyone tell me what it is made of?
    If foam, it is likely to deteriorate with age and may be plugged or plugging the evaporator with the falling apart foam. So I may have to do the ugly of tearing it all apart. But not now. Have to get it running good again.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    followup: 4 days later and it is still running rough, so it is obviously not going to dry out and fix itself. Does anyone know how many codes the OBDII can store?
    I went to autozone and had read. Two of the three persistant codes, not fixed, were present and a 300 indicating multiple misfires. Seems I would have gotten a better indication. Also the question of what it takes to set a code is present. After erasing and starting to leave the DIC popped up again, service vehicle soon. Hoping it might have set some better indicator, I had them scan it again. It said PASS. Huh? I drove over to Firestone with it chiming and flashing the service soon intermittantly. They hung the same hand held and again, PASS. Does it have to go through a complete cycle as GM calls it to set such codes?
    I may have to start buying parts. Seems nothing is cheap. Parts seem to start at $100 and pray it isn't the unit under the coils. It is over $300 bucks at gmdirect.
    Has anyone seen red AC-Delco OE plug wires. I wish I could remember where I got them.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Car behind me goin down the road tells me that my lights in the back are flashing... so i pull over... yup sure are everytime i hear that shorting out sound the lights are flashing... Make it home... take key out ... lights still flashing and door chime is still dinging... I had to un plug battery now because would run my battery out.

    Google for "Auora multifunction switch" - you will get a procedure which tells you how to disassemble the turn signal stalk/cruise control/headlight adjust stalk on the left side of the steering wheel. There is too much grease on a rotating assembly in this switch, and you need to use compressed air and contact cleaner t ofix this. Dealers would just replace the switch. I swear, this happens on EVERY classic Aurora, and I see this post here at least once every two weeks. Wish I could post a direct link but Edmunds frowns on linking to other automotive forums (where this message/these instructions are posted).

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
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    rbursonrburson Member Posts: 1
    Nete, I also have a 98 Aurora and a couple of years ago I had the problem with the headlights flashing at unpredictable intervals with the "shorting" sound from what sounded like was coming from under the dash. I took it to the dealer and the problem was diagnosed as a faulty headlamp/turnsignal switch. This is mounted inside the steering housing on the turn signal lever. It was an expensive repair, as are most on this car, about $375. This was for a GM replacement part, however, if you do the work yourself a Pep Boys model is probably acceptable.
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Read my reply. Replacing the switch is NOT necessary, cleaning the excessive grease from the contacts is. This is a GM part - there are no third party alternatives from Pep Boys or anywhere else.
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    ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    I have a similar problem... Last night (during a fairly heavy rain storm), I got into my car, and when I stepped on the brake pedal (prior to even putting the key in the ignition), my headlights came on, and all my warning lights came on very faintly. When I released the pedal, all the idiot lights went out, and the headlights went out, after a brief time, (the twilight sentinel was turned all the way down).
    This sounds like the multifunction switch problem, but a different version.

    Anyone have a suggestion?
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    dagovernordagovernor Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know the proper method in changing the cornering/side marker lights? I have crawled under my 97, but I dont see a way to access the bulbs. Thanks!!

    Lee
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    javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Go through the wheel wells, pull that out or apart and go in through there for the front ones.
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    HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    The solenoid problem puts the car in second gear NOT NEUTRAL. If the car shifts into second, it may feel like neutral until the car slows down and the tranny cathes again. Make sure the car is going into 2nd, then take it to the shop and tell them you need the shift solenoids changed. GM dealers have a kit for this repair because it happens so often.
    It happened to me to the NJ Turnpike.

    - Henri
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    dpence2002dpence2002 Member Posts: 5
    Lastnight my daughter called me at 10:30pm said the '95 won't start. I found out the battery is good the keyswitch is working but I get no noise or anything from the starter. Does anyone have any ideas what is going on. thanks in advance dpence
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Could be the PASS-KEY system... do you have a second key? Try that. If no go, see if you can get some contact cleaner and clean the resistor contacts on the key. Spraying some compressed air into the keyswitch wouldn't be a bad idea.

    I am, of course, assuming that lights, etc. come on when the doors are opened (i.e. electrical is otherwise good)...

    --Robert
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    skybeaconskybeacon Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Henri. I'll Check that out - re: the second gear.
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    dpence2002dpence2002 Member Posts: 5
    Robert,
    Thanks for the advice but I already tried that. Everything does work, does anyone know where the starter is located or how to bypass the security system?
    dpence2002
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    greensgreens Member Posts: 1
    for some reason my headlights go on and off while the car is not running. has anyone else had this problem with their aurora? if you have what is the problem? the garage charged me $100 to tell me that i don't have auto headlight feature! someone please help!
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    If your Aurora is a Classic, this is most likely the ol' multifunction switch problem -- very common. Google for "Aurora multifunction switch" and you should be able to find a description of how to repair. The switch is in the steering column and controls turn signals, high/low beams, and cruise. The common failure mode is caused by too much grease, which needs to be cleaned out. Replacing the switch is a $400 plus labor job and not necessary.

    Les
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    The starter is buried under the intake manifold between the cylinder banks. Solenoid is mounted on the starter.

    Good luck.

    Les
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Is the security light flashing?

    If so, it may be the PASS-KEY system. If not, it may be the starter. I had an intermittent dead/no crank start problem on my '91 Grand Prix (flat spot on the starter/armature). Happened once every few months. I learned to carry a rubber mallet in the trunk and give the starter a good whack when this happened, until it started to occur more often, when I finally got it replaced (thankfully never stranded).

    Suggest maybe pulling the engine cover and intake and checking it out. Would probably help if you had the service manuals. I understand that these are typically sold on CD-ROM on eBay for $40-$50, and they cover a wide variety of GM vehicles...

    AllDataDIY might be another option to go through the starter troubleshooting diagram...

    --Robert
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    anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    Well guys... I ended up taking the car into a dealer because no one I know wanted to touch the car because of the airbags.. lol So dealer call's me today .. says....

    the problem with my car is... Headlight Switch... which is goin to cost me $430.00 for the part and for the labor... an additional $300.00... total of $730.00 plus tax.... omg that is rediculous.... Any other suggestions that I can have for this electrical nightmare car I have lol Please help lol :(

    anita
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    DO NOT PAY FOR THAT REPAIR.

    Do the following:

    1) point your web browser to http://www.google.com
    2) in the search box, type "Aurora multifunction switch"

    You should find, on another site that I can't link directly to due to Edmunds policy, exact directions on how to disassemble, clean, and repair your switch. You will need contact cleaner and compressed air - both should be readily available at any Radio Shack.

    If you are at all mechanical, or know anyone who is, this is not a terribly difficult or involved procedure. After my switch was replaced for nearly $500 (extended warranty), the fix was posted. A year ago, I was driving up to tailgate at a football game - when my replacement switch started doing the same thing. Stopped at Radio Shack, picked up the supplies, and did the repair in 15 minutes in the parking lot. I'm an IT geek, not an auto tech...

    Again: do NOT pay for this repair. Find the instructions and find someone to do this. No worries about the airbag - they could probably pull the fuse and/or disconnect the battery if they have concerns.

    --Robert
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    hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    OK, hopefully this link won't violate Edmunds policy... no forums on this site:

    http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php

    Scroll down to "Maintenance: Multi Function Headlight Switch" (currently the 3rd item down from the top).

    --Robert
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    flyboy5flyboy5 Member Posts: 3
    See if someone can help me solve this problem:
    I have this whirling or whining sound in my engine at between 1500 &2000 r.p.m.
    it also does it in neutral. It rises and falls with the speed of the engine. I'm wondering if it could be a accessory bearing.
    Flyboy5
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Man, everything on this car is hard to get at on the engine.
    A couple of days ago it rained hard while I was in town. On the way home, if water made it act up, and I'm having such a hard time nailing it, what the heck? I edged over to where some water was and voilla. Smooth as a kitten all the way home. Going through the last intersection is a big dip and it was back. Anyone seen this before?

    I did get it apart enough to locate that tranny connector and it was full of transmission fluid. Did that stuff seep down the wire inside the insulation?
    Anyway, bad news, the circuit reads open from that point. Has anyone ever changed the ISS sensor, behind the end cover? And is it impossible to remove the end cover without pulling tranny?
    Now that is bad enough, but it appears that the oil leak is definitely the end seal, judging from where most of the wet is. On some engines, there used to be an after-market seal kit for taking care of such problems. Has anyone heard of such for this engine? And where exactly is it supposed to leak with this problem? Is it between the seal and crankshaft or the housing/block?
    And gas took a real hike locally, 2.38 regular, means 2.51premium.
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    e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I saw much info some time back along with the buy AC only. One posted he was changing his every few months, but didn't say what brand. And a thank you with reference to Rock Auto & GM Direct seemed to indicate he was using non-OEM.
    I called around and most said they had Bosch. I declined. Pep Boys said theirs was Rochester. I went to get it and dang, I was told wrong. Another Bosch. And the warranty length seemed rather short, varying from 30 , 90, & 365. Same product so I have to assume the last one was wrong or offering their own warranty.
    Last two places to check, Kutchey, often have Standard, GM, and a few other known names. Well a big turn off also was the number of flutes where the gases enter the unit as they pass by. I think the GM had about 8, But the darned Bosch and this Standard only have 3. Makes me wonder if I wouldn't get a lot of code tripping for slow response. OK, how about NAPA? Guess what. Not even their own brand, just Bosch. They tell me that Bosch seemed to have run most all others out with patents and such. Does any of this make sense? If I hunt a GM will I get the same thing with only three flutes?
    Comparative experience with brand used, I can use. Thank You.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    NT,

    I still have three o2 sensors I haven't installed, plus the old one I replaced. All have eight flutes. The manifold ones are ACDelco part no. AFS-125, GM part no. 25312211. The ones on either end of the catcon are ACDelco part no. AFS-97, GM part no. 25312196. Rock website shows $51.79 for AFS-125 and $70.79 for AFS-97; both prices are lower than Rock's prices for Standard and Bosch.

    Replacing the front exhaust manifold o2 sensor on my '97 last October eliminated the P0155 code I had been getting sporadiacally.

    Les
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    lovemyauroralovemyaurora Member Posts: 1
    PLEASE HELP!!!!!. Can someone send me a pic of this sensor's location ..?. I tried to find it,,,no luck. I even bought the books. Send to : Sam djsambiz@aol.com :cry:
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    kenj1kenj1 Member Posts: 4
    I recently had a transmission replaced in my 01 olds.(65000mi). Shortly after the replacement the Service engine light turned on indicating a problem with the Air pump.
    I haven't been able to locate the electric pump and would like to at least do a visual inspection before returning to the repair shop.(100 miles away)
    Can someone point me in the right direction? Also any suggestions on a good service manual for the Aurora?
    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
    kenj1
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    anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    First I want to say ...Robert... THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
    this is an AWESOME Forum...
    You have saved me from spending alot of money for NOOOOO reason!!!
    I printed out the step by step process.... Spent 13.00 for the contact cleaner and compressed air.... and my lights DO NOT flash anymore.... And have returned the 169.00 multifunction switch that I didnt need to buy!
    YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER!!! THANK YOU AGAIN !! :):)

    ANITA
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    kenj1,

    Best service manuals are from GM Try www.helminc.com; the service manual is $135.

    These are occassionally available on eBay, sometimes as CD-ROM.

    Good luck.

    Les
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    dxs003dxs003 Member Posts: 2
    Was doing my regular check under the hood on my 96 Aurora. Whan checked tranfluid reservoir noticed it was way low !
    Filled reservoir checked again a week later and low again. Don't see anything leaking on drive. Anyone know where else this fluid might be going ? :confuse: :confuse:
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    onfire2onfire2 Member Posts: 3
    97 92000 miles recently changed fuel filter and fuel reg. because of long crank time.worked great...but know have a new problem. missing at idle only with the ac on?seems to go away with ac off and at crusing speed with it on?any ideas?did a fwater fog test on wires no sparks, also tack jumps sometimes at idle .need help
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    kenj1kenj1 Member Posts: 4
    Les,
    Thanks I'll check into the service manual.
    BTW I found the Air pump location from another olds forum. It was located under the drivers side front fender. The repair shop left 1 nut off the pump and broke the connector slightly. The connector seperated. I fixed it this morning. Took about an hour to fix. Now I just need to figure out how to reset the Service engine light.
    These forums have been great help to me for other issues on this car.
    Thanks to all.
    Ken
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Ken,

    You are welcome.

    Once the problem has been fixed, the PCM will eventually turn off the SES light. Just how long it will take is a mystery. The service manual for my '97 is very fuzzy. It says some conditions require 80 starts with the condition absent for the SES to be turned off (sure seems excessive to me). I have had cases where it only took half dozen or so starts. I assume your 2001 will behave the same way. Be patient, or find someone with a code scanner to delete the code(s).

    Les
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    ibtiggsibtiggs Member Posts: 23
    Anyone have any idea how to disable the Daytime running lights in my '95, without also disabling the auto headlight feature? It comes mandatory in Canada, but not in the US. I'm wondering if it's a fuse they put in, or what?

    Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated!
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    fierakfierak Member Posts: 8
    I read about the fuel rail recall here in the forum,, can anybody show me a pic where is it located so i can see how it is ,so i can go to a dealer and tell them to change.
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    blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I do not have a picture. The fuel rail is a u-shaped tube assembly located above the intake manifold and below the engine cover. The eight fuel injectors are attached to it as well as the fuel-pressure regulator.

    The recall number is 04014. It states that the dealer is supposed to inspect and replace if necessary. Don't let the dealer tell you replacement is not necessary. There have been several Auroras destroyed plus one house IIRC. The new rail is stainless steel (old one is black nylon).

    Les
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