I have a very strange problem with my 1997 Olds Aurora I hope someone can help me with. While driving the car and turning on the A/C there seems to be a what I would call a hickup almost feels like the touque converter disengages, but I dont see any change in the rpms. While driving the car this problems is present and sometimes is more noticeable when leaving off the throttle, but ive noticed it even with the cruise on going down the road at 65 mph or with a steady speed. Here is the other strange part of my question if you leave the A/C on and shut the car off for a few minutes and re start it the problem goes away. I dont know if somehow something is getting reset when the car is shut of with the A/C on or what please help thank you blackcars
I have that same problem on my 96 Aurora. The sound is coming from right under the right rear passenger door. It's more of a rattling noise than a "humming" noise. Does anyone know what that is??????????????????or how to get rid of it????????????????? HELP ME
On my 1998 Aurora the head lamps came on one day when I opend the door lock using my remote (they usually flash) they never turned off. Now I have to pull the fuses to turn the headlamps off. Once all my interior light came on by themself. That time I removed negative battery terminal for a while and put it back. That fixed th problem. I tried to do the same now. But no luck. Any clue. Thanks.
hi guys this is my first time posting on this board but I hope that you can help me because i'm having weird problems with my 1995 aurora 4.0 with about 85k miles...first - it idles rough, like it is accelerating by itself, especially when it's in drive, but not as bad in park. Like if I'm stopped at a light it's almost as if it's giving itself gas. Any ideas? I recently replaced my back breaks AND rotors because they sounded like they were making a rubbing noise, but it is only because the car is still trying to move when it's stopped. Also, so you know, the surging has always happened, and the rough idle (from 600 rpm to 1150) really worsened after I had spark plugs and wires changed (A.C. Delco I think). Also, around 40 mph, when accelerating I feel a hesitation and jerking, like it's struggling to make it past that point. Once I hit about 45 though it goes away considerably. What else...the outside temp light will blink when i first start the car for about a minute or two - is this normal? I can't remember if it always did this. One last thing, my heater core was replaced in March - should I get a coolant flush? I really need your help guys because my cousin is a certified mechanic and can do the work, but does not have much esperience with these cars, and who would know better than you? I love the car and want to keep it around as long as possible - plus i still owe money on it! :">
Tons of issues in your post... let me sort them out.
1) Car giving itself gas - sounds like the throttle cable is sticking. Strongly suggest your cousin clean and inspect the throttle cable. Mine stuck once and I nearly drove through my garage into my house :-)
2) Surging - also suggest getting some throttle body cleaner and cleaning the butterfly valve. Also check the EGR valve, replacing if necessary, and the Idle Air Control motor.
3) Make sure you used AC/Delco plugs and wires. Plugs should be gapped to 0.5 IIRC (there was some debate about this)
4) Another possible cause of your hesitation problems, if a throttle body/EGR valve don't turn out to be the problem, would be a fried coil pack. If your plugs and wires were bad long enough, it could have fried a coil pack. Suggest buying a known good one and then swapping it, taking the car for a test drive in between swapping it. If the problems go away after swapping one, then that was your problem.
5) Coolant flush - ever had one? If not, do. Make sure you use DexCool, but get it flushed every couple of years. The green antifreeze can begin to eat the aluminum engine, leading to head gasket issues. Also be sure to use the walnut-shell radiator sealant tabs - they do work. Had your tranny flushed ever? Brake fluid changed (probably seriously water-contaminated if you haven't).
6) Temperature sensor - sounds like this went bad. I'd have it replaced (I believe it's under the front driver's side corner of the car - not sure on a '95, if it's different than my '98).
My '97 service manual shows 0.050" while the tune-up label under the hood shows 0.060". I believe the tuneup label over the service manual. 1995s could be different.
Interesting. When I changed my plugs about 1.5 years ago, I gapped them at 0.050" based on the service manual. When I woke up to the tune-up label under the hood, I regapped the front plugs to 0.060" but never got around to regapping the rears. No issues.
On my '97 the fuel filter is under the floor pan on the driver side about where the rear left passenger foot well is. It is easily visible once you are under the car. I assume your '96 to be the same.
If you are going to change it, remember that the fuel is under pressure and will spray out. Service manual suggests relieving the pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Does that pressure bleed down over a period of hours? If you set it up overnight, then go out the next day to work on it without turning the key on and activating the pump, won't most of the pressure be gone?
Myself I just put a shop rag over the connection as I use the wrench to unscrew it. It does ooze out more gas than I would like to loose.
Yea, that's what I tried, too. After letting the car sit overnight, when I opened the fuel pump fitting with a rag around it, I got sprayed (not ooze) in the face. I thought I was out of harm's way. YMMV.
I have an 96 aurora and when I try to start the car the engine makes no noise and on the in dash help board reads "clean key wait 3 mins" also the security light comes on and stays on for about a few mins this happens a few times a week. Whats wrong and how do I get it fixed?
Ok, today I received the GM service manuals for the 1995 Aurora. I do not seem to see a particular type of plug that I should use... any suggestions? BOSCH platinum?
The more disturbing thing is that the service manual says the plugs should not be replaced but every 100,000 miles!!!
Considering as rough as the idle is, I plan to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs only. All of this was done in October of 2003 and with AC Delco parts! What is the deal here? Is my rough idle being caused by something else? Will hooking it up to the computer tell me anything? The engine light isn't on.
thanks for helping me, i'm going over my cousins today to check out the things that you mentioned...only one problem (hammens2) you mentioned using dexcool, while i was under the impression that i should use the green stuff...what' the deal?
Alcan says broken wire. I say that's possible, but first I'd get some contact cleaner and spray it on both sides of the resistor pellet on each key that you have (if more than one). I'd also spray compressed air and then contact cleaner into the ignition.
If the problem isn't rectified, then I would suggest either taking it apart and testing for continuity, or taking it somewhere if you don't know how to do that.
okay i just talked to my cousin and he said that 95 to 96 is the year that they made the tranfer from the green to the orange anti-freeze. he said if there was already green in it, i should continue using green. i asked him if it would be a good idea to get a flush and switch to orange, and he said bad idea. the green is chemicals and the orange is organic, if the new orange mixes with the old green it will make a mud like substance...any thoughts?
The experience on this board is to use ONLY ACDelco parts. Most of us have found that first replacement of plugs and wires needs to be done by 80,000 miles or so. 100,000 is apparently for ideal conditions and marketing hype. My guess is that second and subsequent replacements will be required more frequently because of engine wear.
"Considering as rough as the idle is, I plan to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs only." Why are you ignoring wires? From what I have seen, wires are much more likely than coils to be the problem unless you have additional information. Were the wires replaced in October 2003?
"Is my rough idle being caused by something else?" It is certainly possible. I have not experienced the problem, but I would guess that bad fuel or defective fuel injectors would cause rough idle.
"Will hooking it up to the computer tell me anything?" Depends on what you mean by "the computer." If you mean the onboard diagnostics -- maybe. '95s came with both OBDI (early model year) and OBDII (later model year) electronics; however, both versions have an OBDI connector. This hybrid makes it difficult to find a service facility that can (or knows how to) read the codes contained in the onboard computer. I do not know what can be learned from OBDI. My '97 OBDII stores codes for misfires in each cylinder. When my '97 idles rough, I pull the codes and find one or two cylinders with misfires (a few dozen to a few hundred). But not enough to turn on the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. OBDII can identify the cylinders involved but does not otherwise help troubleshoot to the specific cause.
Another type of "computer" is an ignition analyzer. If you can find a competent shop that has one, I'm sure that the ignition analyzer will identify the cause of your problem.
If you want to check the wires yourself, one way is to observe the engine running in the dark. Misfires caused by wires shorting to ground or to each other can be seen as "lightening." Your wires could be misrouted and run too close to metal conductors. Unfortunately, there are areas behind and below the ignition module and coils that are hidden from view. A way to enhance this test is to spray the plug wires lightly with a water spray bottle. Be careful in the dark that you do not come in contact with the water pump and accesory drive belts.
Do not use anything but AC Delco plugs and plug wires. If you do, you will have problems.
The manual says 100k miles but at 77k my plug wires were arcing against the plastic engine cover. Ditto those on my mother-in-law's '98 (at 72k miles). Of course, the coolant is supposed to last to 100k, but I'm not there yet and I think I've had it flushed three times already :-)
I would pull and check the gap on the spark plugs, BEFORE replacing them (if you buy the AC Delco ones, make sure you can return them if the others look fine). I would also do the spritzer test - spray bottle of water, spray the plug wires with the engine running. Do you see sparks? Time to replace the wires. You might consider picking up one coil pack and then swapping it down the line, starting the car in between swaps to check the idle. My guess is that you've got a bad coil pack. EGR valve/need to clean the throttle body and throttle cables, might be other things to check while underhood. And, if you haven't replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and have any hard start crank but no fire situations, it's probably time to have that done. Was the recall done to replace the nylon fuel rail with a stainless one? Very important - some folks here have lost their Auroras due to a fuel line leak/engine fire.
Your cousin is right in that they changed from the green stuff to the orange stuff between the '95 and '96 model years. He's also right in that mixing the green and orange = sludge. I regrettably had to do this once on my '96 Lumina when, due to a water pump leak in the middle of nowhere, temps below 0, I was forced to put regular antifreeze in (all I could get at the Shopko store at 8:55 p.m. on a Sunday night/couldn't/didn't want to add just water in those temps, had to get home). I had the water pump replaced and the cooling system flushed - no issues.
The main reason why DexCool has been recommended is due to the green stuff eating the aluminum engines (do some Google searches for Northstar + head gasket + anti-freeze). Many of the early Northstars ('93-'95 Caddy Eldos and STSes, '95 Aurora) had head gasket leaks and other failures/problems due to this. You're less likely to have this issue if you switch to DexCool, and it's my understanding that a "power flush" of the cooling system should remove virtually all of the old green stuff, and thus reduce, if not eliminate, the likelihood of the muck being formed. I'm an IT geek and don't do this for a living, so I'd love to hear an expert's take on this (Alcan?).
The only caveat with DexCool is that I change it every 40k miles or 2 years, whichever comes first (I don't buy into the extended life argument)...
There's a lot of information out there regarding green vs. orange (and pink); it is difficult to sort the accurate from the uninformed. After much googling on the topic, here's what I believe to be true:
Dex-Cool can be used in cooling systems that were originally filled with green coolant. The problem is that the green stuff has to be flushed completely, or the good properties (5 yrs, 150,000 miles, reduced cavitation, increased water pump life, etc) of Dex-Cool will not be effective, and a 2 yr 30,000 (or whatever) mile replacement schedule should be followed. I do not know how to ensure that the green stuff is completely flushed. Sure, you can back-flush, but is that adequate? Therefore, I think that your mechanic's advice is good.
Good advise, but for the wrong reason. There are many documented cases of the "mud" your refer to. GM and Havoline swear that the problem was caused in certain engines because of the coolant being exposed to air. Cooling systems used to have a radiator cap with a two-way cap and connected to a coolant recovery tank by a hose. The design resulted in the coolant being exposed to a fresh charge of air with each hot-cool cycle. Our Auroras (and many other cars) have a closed cooling system. The pressure cap is on top of the surge tank, and there is no radiator cap. Therefore, exposure to air is minimized.
If the wires are original replace them immediately even if you can't find arcing on a dark night with salt water spray. Plugs get replaced about 60K --no 100K. Does the air intake leave black deposits next to the throttle valve. If so, might clean that out with a spray cleaner that's appropriate for the job. Has fuel filter been replaced, especially if gas from random, off-brand stations may have been used frequently?
PLEASE HELP!! bought used aurora worked fine for 3 weeks then would need a jump after minimal time w engine off and radio (etc.) on.Eventually needed 2 b jumped 2 start every time./ CHANGED BATTERY.no help. still needed 2 b jumped 2 start./CHANGED ALTERNATOR/ still dead to a turnover w/o jump./EVEN TRIED ANOTHER BATTERY and CLEANED GROUND CONNECTIONS...nada! what am i doing wrong? ALSO tach and m.p.h. gagues sometimes go absolutely haywire w a sometimes accompanying s.e.s. warning; then passkey system fault "chimes in" and gagues go back 2 "normal". No idea if 2 probs are linked .feel like i'm taking crazy pills.
I've got a '96 Aurora that seems to make a rattling noise under the right rear passenger door. I know there's some sort of box under there for something and thats where its coming from, but idk what the box is???????? Please Help!!
I have a '98 Aurora that I hit a deer with a couple of weeks ago. It did about $3000 damage to the front end that I had repaired. I forgot to tell the shop that I hit the seat adjustment switch with my elbow and broke the black part of the switch that you push to adjust the switch. The switch itself still works. I don't want to replace the entire assembly for $90 but will if I have to. What is involved in getting to the switch assembly? Do I have to remove the entire door panel or does some part of the panel come off?. If I could get to the back side of the panel I may be able to repair the switch. Thanks
I just bought a 1997 aurora the drivers side power door lock works but the other three doors dont checked the two fuses and there fine what else should i do?? THANKS and please help
Hi. I have two Aurora's,- a 97 that is working fine except for the fuel gauge only works to about a third tank and bounces to full and a 95 with the same starting problems that many have posted. First it would start intermittently, then the starter would kick in and out. I first replaced the started. Bad first choice since it did not improve. I checked the 10 yr old battery and it was below the required voltage so I replaced it. Then the car ran for a period of time and began failing to start -- starter kicking in and out. Finally realized it was related to the ignition switch. It would engage or not based upon how I moved the key in the switch. Tried cleaning keys and different keys. So I bought the new cylinder from GMdirect.com. Now how do I replace it. What is the magic formula to get the cylinder out and new one in. Also if you know how to fix the fuel gauge, I am interested. Thanks
Ok, today we tuned up the car and the throttle response is back to normal. The rough idle is gone.
Some things to note:
The plug wires were replaced in 2003 with AC Delco plug wires. The wires looked good and since they do not have but 20K+ miles on 'em, I kept them.
I replaced the spark plugs with BOSCH platinum. The 1995 Aurora comes with AC Delco platinum plugs originally, but I decided to go with BOSCH Platinum since I usually switch my plugs every 18 months. I noted when removing the plugs that the last time my father had the car tuned up, they put in non-platinum plugs, which is more than likely the reason for the rough idle.
I also replaced the coil packs since the plugs I took out were in VERY bad shape. The ignition coils were $20 each. Not too bad.
Now, the car runs as it did and should, fast.
The next thing on my list is to replace the fuel filter when I get the oil changed and the PCV valve. I also plan to install a K&N air filter with a custom made charger type system.
I had the same fuel gauge problem with my '97; it is a fairly common problem for Classics. The sender is the culprit. It is located in the fuel tank, attached to the fuel pump. The sender may be available as a separate part, but I decided to replace both fuel pump and gauge sender together. Replacement is moderately difficult and requires a special tool to remove and reinstall the retainer ring. There is an access panel in the trunk so that the tank does not need to be dropped. List price for the unit is about $500. Can be had for about $250 from discount internet suppliers and sometomed on eBay.
Thanks Les. I had read that somone had luck with placing fuel additive into a couple of tanks. Was hoping that might cure the switch problem -- not yet.
What have you done so far? Have you cleaned the key? Your experience is intermittent, so the resistor pellet must be present in the key. Do you have a second or third key that you have tried? Since the problem is intermittent, I lean toward dirty electrical contacts as the source of the problem. But could be worn contacts in the key cylinder. I do not have any experience to offer as to cost of replacing the cylinder.
I had the wires break in the column on my 93 LeSabre. Now I read about some guy cutting the wires that go to the cylinder to read the resistor, jumping across the two wires with appropriate resistor to make the little computer think the right key has been inserted, and going merrily on his way. It cost me $200 or so when the garage replaced mine and then had to do two new resistor keys because the new lock cylinder didn't let the old keys be cut deeper for the new keying.
Took my 96 Aurora to Autozone and they told me it had a misfiring code, the guy told me that changing the plugs and wires should stop the problem. Well I did and the problem still persists, shaky engine, rough idle and sluggish/little pick up power. Was thinking of chaging the coilpacks, does anyone know if this is the solution? Cant really think of anything else it could be. Another code I got was a speed sensor, dont think this can cause all that problem, can it?
I cleaned the key with contact cleaner and I also tried spraying cleaner in the igintion hol. I dont think that was a good idea because now it doesnt start at all. It used to start once I gave it a break now it doesnt start at all.
Coil packs are a possibility. Also, get a can of throttle body cleaner for $2-$3 and remove the MAF tube after the airbox. Clean the butterfly valve as best as you can and make sure its range of motion isn't limited. Also may have a clogged EGR valve, or problems with the Idle Air Control motor...
Thanks for the input I will try that and see how it goes. One thing thou, not sure where and what those parts are in the car. EGR where is that at, and the Idle Air Control motor, oh and how hard are they to replace?
Does anyone know the proper procedure to replace the ingition key cylinder? I managed to get the old one out but don't know if there is a proper sequence to assure that the new cylinder and keys are recognized. Thanks.
rough idle, sparkplugs and wires should correct this. i have a95 165000 miles, just received refund back from fuel rail repair. I have an oil leak from the oil pan has anyone had this problem,does the engine have to be removed to repair? :
Well, I just about had it with wife wanting to keep this car. Can't seem to find the problem. :mad:
Got some codes saying it was a O2 sensor and speed sensor and the main one a multi-cylinder misfire. Got new AC Delco plugs and wires and cleaned the EGR valve....Going to get the coil packs tested today and see if one or two are bad, have my fingers crossed...
I've been thinking if a bad injector can cause this rough idle, shaky and nutty RPM needle...problem? The guys at Autozone have gone out of their way and seems like they're also curious of what the problem could be.
Sorry for unloading in the beginning but its frustating not finding a solution.
Did I read somewhere in here that there is a problem with the transmissions in the earlier Auroras? The trans in my 95 classic seems to be slipping between shifts. Not real bad, just seems to shift, then slip for a split second, then catch again. I have checked the fluid, and it seems to be ok. The Trans life indicator still shows 100%. Please help!
I had the same problem with rough engine idle. I changed the spark plugs, coil packs and wires and the problem was fixed. the coil packs are about $22 a piece from AutoZone. Otherwise from the dealrer you are looking at $39 per coil pack!!! Some say that if you donlt use A/C Delco then you won't fix the problem. Well let me assure you that I did use A/C Delco and the damn things runs better!!! Do make sure you use a platinum tipped spark plug though. One thing I noticed was that who ever did the tune up last on my Aurora didn't use platinum plugs. Otherwise it ran for two years without any issues.
I noticed today that a small amount of smoke is coming out through where the steering wheel makes contact with the steering wheel shaft. Has this happened to anyone? If so what caused this and what is the solution? I hope it isn't trying to tell me something about a possible airbag deployment!!! Would spraying all of that contact cleaner on the multifunction switch cause the smoke? Someone please advise... thanks! :confuse:
I also had a problem with the guages going haywire. I had the alternator totally rebuilt and the battery replaced. It seems the alternator had blow diodes, which allow the DC current to run backwards, shorting everything out. The car had all sorts of electrical problems when I purchased it April/05, including blown LH seat heater module, power seat controls etc... It makes sense that these units were blown due to the current going backward and frying them. I replace the broken modules/switches after the alternator/battery. No problems anymore. I hope checking the diodes in your alternator will help. Most service garages have a diode check on their testers. Cheers eh!
My 98 Aurora makes a clunking noise in the rear when moving slowly, going in the driveway. I had the shocks tightened as they found they were loose but still the noise. I also have a part broken on my trunk, it's not the strut, that's fine, but the connector on the trunk lid that sticks out allowing the strut to snap on it and makes the trunk close flush. Is this tiny piece available to buy or is it part of entire trunk lid itself. It feels like a flat disc that snaps into the lid and protrudes out the outside of the lid itself. If anyone can help with these issues, I'd appreciate it.
Comments
Nina
1) Car giving itself gas - sounds like the throttle cable is sticking. Strongly suggest your cousin clean and inspect the throttle cable. Mine stuck once and I nearly drove through my garage into my house :-)
2) Surging - also suggest getting some throttle body cleaner and cleaning the butterfly valve. Also check the EGR valve, replacing if necessary, and the Idle Air Control motor.
3) Make sure you used AC/Delco plugs and wires. Plugs should be gapped to 0.5 IIRC (there was some debate about this)
4) Another possible cause of your hesitation problems, if a throttle body/EGR valve don't turn out to be the problem, would be a fried coil pack. If your plugs and wires were bad long enough, it could have fried a coil pack. Suggest buying a known good one and then swapping it, taking the car for a test drive in between swapping it. If the problems go away after swapping one, then that was your problem.
5) Coolant flush - ever had one? If not, do. Make sure you use DexCool, but get it flushed every couple of years. The green antifreeze can begin to eat the aluminum engine, leading to head gasket issues. Also be sure to use the walnut-shell radiator sealant tabs - they do work. Had your tranny flushed ever? Brake fluid changed (probably seriously water-contaminated if you haven't).
6) Temperature sensor - sounds like this went bad. I'd have it replaced (I believe it's under the front driver's side corner of the car - not sure on a '95, if it's different than my '98).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Is that a mistype--0.050 in. meaning 50 thousandths?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Les
Yes - sorry - not a mistype, but a brain f, uh, failure. Got to stop typing messages after 18+ hours days...
--Robert
P.S. Les, my '98's service manual says 0.05. No sticker underhood saying 0.06, so I've had 0.05 for a year and a half, no issues...
Interesting. When I changed my plugs about 1.5 years ago, I gapped them at 0.050" based on the service manual. When I woke up to the tune-up label under the hood, I regapped the front plugs to 0.060" but never got around to regapping the rears. No issues.
Les
If you are going to change it, remember that the fuel is under pressure and will spray out. Service manual suggests relieving the pressure at the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
Les
Myself I just put a shop rag over the connection as I use the wrench to unscrew it. It does ooze out more gas than I would like to loose.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Les
The more disturbing thing is that the service manual says the plugs should not be replaced but every 100,000 miles!!!
Considering as rough as the idle is, I plan to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs only. All of this was done in October of 2003 and with AC Delco parts! What is the deal here? Is my rough idle being caused by something else? Will hooking it up to the computer tell me anything? The engine light isn't on.
Please advise... thanks!
my car is a 95 by the way...
nina
If the problem isn't rectified, then I would suggest either taking it apart and testing for continuity, or taking it somewhere if you don't know how to do that.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
nina
"Considering as rough as the idle is, I plan to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs only." Why are you ignoring wires? From what I have seen, wires are much more likely than coils to be the problem unless you have additional information. Were the wires replaced in October 2003?
"Is my rough idle being caused by something else?" It is certainly possible. I have not experienced the problem, but I would guess that bad fuel or defective fuel injectors would cause rough idle.
"Will hooking it up to the computer tell me anything?" Depends on what you mean by "the computer." If you mean the onboard diagnostics -- maybe. '95s came with both OBDI (early model year) and OBDII (later model year) electronics; however, both versions have an OBDI connector. This hybrid makes it difficult to find a service facility that can (or knows how to) read the codes contained in the onboard computer. I do not know what can be learned from OBDI. My '97 OBDII stores codes for misfires in each cylinder. When my '97 idles rough, I pull the codes and find one or two cylinders with misfires (a few dozen to a few hundred). But not enough to turn on the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. OBDII can identify the cylinders involved but does not otherwise help troubleshoot to the specific cause.
Another type of "computer" is an ignition analyzer. If you can find a competent shop that has one, I'm sure that the ignition analyzer will identify the cause of your problem.
If you want to check the wires yourself, one way is to observe the engine running in the dark. Misfires caused by wires shorting to ground or to each other can be seen as "lightening." Your wires could be misrouted and run too close to metal conductors. Unfortunately, there are areas behind and below the ignition module and coils that are hidden from view. A way to enhance this test is to spray the plug wires lightly with a water spray bottle. Be careful in the dark that you do not come in contact with the water pump and accesory drive belts.
Hope this helps.
Les
The manual says 100k miles but at 77k my plug wires were arcing against the plastic engine cover. Ditto those on my mother-in-law's '98 (at 72k miles). Of course, the coolant is supposed to last to 100k, but I'm not there yet and I think I've had it flushed three times already :-)
I would pull and check the gap on the spark plugs, BEFORE replacing them (if you buy the AC Delco ones, make sure you can return them if the others look fine). I would also do the spritzer test - spray bottle of water, spray the plug wires with the engine running. Do you see sparks? Time to replace the wires. You might consider picking up one coil pack and then swapping it down the line, starting the car in between swaps to check the idle. My guess is that you've got a bad coil pack. EGR valve/need to clean the throttle body and throttle cables, might be other things to check while underhood. And, if you haven't replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator, and have any hard start crank but no fire situations, it's probably time to have that done. Was the recall done to replace the nylon fuel rail with a stainless one? Very important - some folks here have lost their Auroras due to a fuel line leak/engine fire.
--Robert
Your cousin is right in that they changed from the green stuff to the orange stuff between the '95 and '96 model years. He's also right in that mixing the green and orange = sludge. I regrettably had to do this once on my '96 Lumina when, due to a water pump leak in the middle of nowhere, temps below 0, I was forced to put regular antifreeze in (all I could get at the Shopko store at 8:55 p.m. on a Sunday night/couldn't/didn't want to add just water in those temps, had to get home). I had the water pump replaced and the cooling system flushed - no issues.
The main reason why DexCool has been recommended is due to the green stuff eating the aluminum engines (do some Google searches for Northstar + head gasket + anti-freeze). Many of the early Northstars ('93-'95 Caddy Eldos and STSes, '95 Aurora) had head gasket leaks and other failures/problems due to this. You're less likely to have this issue if you switch to DexCool, and it's my understanding that a "power flush" of the cooling system should remove virtually all of the old green stuff, and thus reduce, if not eliminate, the likelihood of the muck being formed. I'm an IT geek and don't do this for a living, so I'd love to hear an expert's take on this (Alcan?).
The only caveat with DexCool is that I change it every 40k miles or 2 years, whichever comes first (I don't buy into the extended life argument)...
--Robert
Dex-Cool can be used in cooling systems that were originally filled with green coolant. The problem is that the green stuff has to be flushed completely, or the good properties (5 yrs, 150,000 miles, reduced cavitation, increased water pump life, etc) of Dex-Cool will not be effective, and a 2 yr 30,000 (or whatever) mile replacement schedule should be followed. I do not know how to ensure that the green stuff is completely flushed. Sure, you can back-flush, but is that adequate? Therefore, I think that your mechanic's advice is good.
Good advise, but for the wrong reason. There are many documented cases of the "mud" your refer to. GM and Havoline swear that the problem was caused in certain engines because of the coolant being exposed to air. Cooling systems used to have a radiator cap with a two-way cap and connected to a coolant recovery tank by a hose. The design resulted in the coolant being exposed to a fresh charge of air with each hot-cool cycle. Our Auroras (and many other cars) have a closed cooling system. The pressure cap is on top of the surge tank, and there is no radiator cap. Therefore, exposure to air is minimized.
Hope this helps.
Les
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
THANKS and please help
Some things to note:
The plug wires were replaced in 2003 with AC Delco plug wires. The wires looked good and since they do not have but 20K+ miles on 'em, I kept them.
I replaced the spark plugs with BOSCH platinum. The 1995 Aurora comes with AC Delco platinum plugs originally, but I decided to go with BOSCH Platinum since I usually switch my plugs every 18 months. I noted when removing the plugs that the last time my father had the car tuned up, they put in non-platinum plugs, which is more than likely the reason for the rough idle.
I also replaced the coil packs since the plugs I took out were in VERY bad shape. The ignition coils were $20 each. Not too bad.
Now, the car runs as it did and should, fast.
The next thing on my list is to replace the fuel filter when I get the oil changed and the PCV valve. I also plan to install a K&N air filter with a custom made charger type system.
Les
How about removal of ignition switch cylinder?
Les
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
--Robert
Thanks for the input I will try that and see how it goes. One thing thou, not sure where and what those parts are in the car. EGR where is that at, and the Idle Air Control motor, oh and how hard are they to replace?
Thanks.
i have a95 165000 miles, just received refund back from fuel rail repair.
I have an oil leak from the oil pan has anyone had this problem,does the engine have to be removed to repair? :
Got some codes saying it was a O2 sensor and speed sensor and the main one a multi-cylinder misfire. Got new AC Delco plugs and wires and cleaned the EGR valve....Going to get the coil packs tested today and see if one or two are bad, have my fingers crossed...
I've been thinking if a bad injector can cause this rough idle, shaky and nutty RPM needle...problem? The guys at Autozone have gone out of their way and seems like they're also curious of what the problem could be.
Sorry for unloading in the beginning but its frustating not finding a solution.
Please help!
Keith
Cheers eh!