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Comments
Thanks,Jason
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"Well I finally fixed the flashing light illness that took over my car and killed her battery."
Here's what you'll need:
Socket set or wrenches (specifically 10mm and 8mm in size)
Phillips screwdriver
5mm or 3/16th nutdriver
Electrical Contact cleaner (spray kind with plastic straw attached)
Radio Shack #64-4315 Contact/Control Cleaner Lubricant.
Compressed air (with plastic straw attached)
Radio Shack #64-4351 Velocity Dust Remover Spray
Now here's how to tackle the problem:
Disconnect negative battery terminal from battery. You will use the 8mm socket here. Remember that the battery is under the back seat.
Disconnect 10 amp air bag fuse on drivers side of dash (hidden by the door). The correct fuse is on the top left of the fuse box.
Remove sound absorber (black in color) from just above the pedals. There are three phillips screws holding on the panel.
Also, disconnect the air bag circuit (the thing with the yellow tag on it) by first pulling out the green plastic lock that's in there. Just pull that green thing staight out and then separate the two connections.
Remove two 10mm screws from dash colored knee bolster (the part just below the steering wheel). There are two 10mm screws that you can see and another two you can't see yet.
Pry out button panels on either side of the steering wheel. The ones with the twilight and the trunk buttons. Grab where the plexiglass meets the panel with the buttons and pull out in a downward motion, leave the switch harnesses connected.
Use the 10mm socket to remove the two remaining bolts that hold the knee bolster in place.
Use the nutdriver to remove six screws that hold the steering wheel colums cover on. The three that secure the bottom are easy to see, the other three that secure the bottom to the top aren't. There is one that is in the top left hand corner of the tilt lever housing and the other two are on either side of the steering wheel column (where the top right and top left sides of the column meet the plexiglass).
Remove the trim piece that goes around the ignition switch (the piece with the words OFF,ACC, RUN and START on it). Just grab the piece and pull it straight out.
Remove the steering column upper and lower covers.
I forgot to take a picture of this, but if you look directly down the turn signal stalk (you may have to hold the rubber piece out of the way) you will see some screws. If you look to the right of those screws (closer to the stalk itself) you will see five little holes in a semicircular pattern. You will now want to take your contact cleaner and spray it into each of these holes. Follow your application of the contact cleaner with an application of compressed air (so you can get any grease and crud out of there that is loosened by the contact cleaner). Use towels to clean up and be generous with both the cleaner and the compressed air. Repeat this procedure 10-12 times while lubing the switch (turn the headlight switch through each of its three "clicking" points).
Wait about 30 minutes (I waited for about an hour) so you can be sure everything is dry.
Reconnect the battery.
Make sure it works OK. Sometimes you'll need to go through the cleaning procedure again.
If your headlights continue to stay on after cleaning the switch then you will want to check inside the Lamp Control Module. The LCM box easily snaps apart after removing 4 phillips head screws. There are 3 small coil relays on the circuit board. You'll probably need a magnifying glass to look at the contacts on them. These contacts can develop a build-up that can close off the gap. Use the tip of sharp knife to scrape off the high spots, and then check the contacts to make sure they now work OK.
Time to put everything back together. Remember to reconnect the airbag circut and replace the fuse (make sure the ignition is turned off for this part).
Congratulate yourself on a job well done and drink a favorite beverage as a toast to the money you just saved.
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From the forums:
A huge thank you to thumpin455 for your instructions to fix this "96 Aurora strange problem" I had no problems following your detailed instructions and now my Aurora is OK. Running lights are not blinking on and off anymore and no more clicking of the relays in the black box under the dash. Many many thanks and may God bless you for sharing your knowledge with us all. One note to others is that this problem was intermittent for approximately one year before it became constant just last month. Thanks again......
YOU ROCK!! Ok, I just finished the repair on my 99 Aurora with the clicking/flashing problem, the hardest part was locating a 5mm nut driver, but once I did, WOW! I almost can't believe it worked! Thanks so much!!
Thanks a bunch! Dealer wanted $600 to install new light switch...I did the cleaning thing yesterday and parking lights are fixed! The crazy type screws on the steering shroud gave me a fit however I bought a 3/16ths. nut driver and got them out. Again....thanks...I owe you one!
Man it really works Well I haven't actually done it yet, but I took off the steering cover and found the 5 holes. One of the holes was filled with grease so I got a small knife with a sharp tip and cleaned the grease and the lights stopped flashing. I'm on my way right now to Radio Shack right now to get the contact cleaner and compressed air so I can do the job right. Thanks in advance.
WHere did you find the sensor to change?
Les
Les
I do know that the engine is a cadillac motor and any work inside the motor is very expensive unless you can do it yourself.
If the head gasket seal is broken, there should be evidence of your coolant in your engine oil. One simple test is to determine if the amount of engine oil is increasing. You would also think that one could detect coolant in the engine oil through smell or taste.
Good luck...a great car!!
braking system - When the weather turns cold - my brakes have to be pumped prior to putting in reverse or drive. Prior to pumping the brakes it seems like I have no brakes at all.
Has anyone else noticed a similar problem? If so let me hear the outcome.
Dez4
I shut off the radio, still the humming. Shut off the climate control, still the humming. Got out and popped the trunk lid, thinking the power antenna motor in the right rear behind the trim was running, but it wasn't. It seemed the sound was coming from the middle of the trunk.
Then the noise abruptly stoppedI When it occurred again a few days later, I checked the rear power windows to see if I had a motor running or engaged, but the noise was not coming from there. So I suspected the fuel pump in the gas tank was making the racket. This time while I was standing there half into the trunk, the sound stopped.
Since then I noticed the sound also when the car is not running but the car's ignition switch is in the accessory position. Whether the car is idling or just has the ignition switch in the accessory position, the humming starts and stops. Then it may disappear for over a week or more. The noise never occurs when the ignition switch is in the off position.
The car is running beautifully, so my paranoia has me wondering if the fuel pump may give out at an inopportune time. I also think I read in a post on this web site that the fuel pump is mounted on top of the gas tank and can be accessed under the floor of the trunk without yanking the gas tank.
Does anyone have any knowledge of this issue and a recommended fix?
After I posted I realized I should have done a discussion search first. I uncovered all kinds of fuel pump issues and solutions, complete with horror stories of "Where I was when my car's fuel pump died." The common school of thought is to replace the fuel pump as a course of routine maintenance rather than wait and get stuck. Or wait and wonder why the car has starting or running problems.
Similar to many posters, I also have a fuel gauge problem on my 1998 Autobahn with 82,000 miles. , the gauge goes crazy like clockwork when I'm down to about 6 gallons of fuel remaining, or one third of a tank. blk97aurora noted that the sending unit is a common problem and can be purchased as a package with the fuel pump.
Another poster stated that the #1 cause of fuel pump failure is a dirty fuel filter. I think I'll get that taken care of and ponder the fuel pump for a while because of recent maintenace and repair costs.
I just got the car back from a leaking coolant issue: radiator crack discovered under pressure testing. Add in the hoses, a thermostat, and a replacement of the water pump which likewise was slowly seeping coolant. Two weeks ago I replaced the original battery! Five months ago it was a total brake job including rotors but not calipers. Eight months ago it was a seized idler pulley/tensioner which, considering the state of disassembly, prompted me to replace the a/c compressor, alternator, and serpentine belt. I'm into preventative maintenace.
2007 has had its moments, but the car has been a pleasure to own for over ten years with no issues, and a greater pleasure to drive.
Most of this stuff is really routine maintenance amyway with a car this age. After detailing it last month, I realized how really well the black paint has held up except for a few bird droppings and some stone chips on the nose. The interior is still close to pristine. I can't tell you how many people ask me what kind of car it is. And when they hear that it was originally delivered in August 1997, they can't believe it's a ten year old car that's a dog and grocery hauler.
Somewhere in the back of my mind I realize that the car will not soldier on forever. It's too bad.
I lost coolant slowly over an 18 month period of time, about a quart every six months, usually evident after an extended highway drive, could smell it burning off, but could never locate the source.......nor could my mechanic until he put the coolant system under pressure, turned off the lights in the garage bay, and with the engine hot and running found the steam source with a flashlight (I was there). The problem wound up being a minute radiator leak near the top hose connector that finally got worse and became visually obvious (moisture and/or steam) if you caught the leak in the act. He found very slight seepage in the water pump as well.
Another poster also cited very slight water pump seepage which can come and go until the water pump is ready to go. Another poster found a very small crack in underside of the overflow tank, and the leaking coolant burned off the motor, so it was hard to find that wet spot. Another poster said he discovered a coolant wet spot on the carpeting by the firewall, but I don't recall where the leak was found. And yet another poster wisely advised to check the motor oil level to see if a head gasket leak was directing coolant into the crankcase (rise in motor oil level) which, even if minute, could be detected by the color and smell of the motor oil or milky residue on the oil filler cap. And what about the transmission cooling lines and connectors?
My point is this. There are a lot of places you could look to find the source of your problem, many not mentioned here, but the fix is not necessarily difficult or expensive.
I'm not a knowledgeable car guy. That's why a savvy, patient, and trustworthy repairman is invaluable.
The overheating is gettin worse. I drove it from VA to FL 2 yrs ago and accross the state last the spring. Now I can barely travel across town without the needle traveling well into the red, but I can leave it idling with the A/C blasting (when its charged) and after half an hour the temp hasn't climbed but a smidge past halfway. I'm workin on my own bald spot.
I am happy to find the forum but still discouraged about the lack of an A-HA!!! fix-all for this hot running Vixen. The previous post mentions several possibilities/causes. I will check all these things over the next several days. Gotta wonder though: would losing a quart of coolant (or being down a quart of coolant) be the sole reason one of these beasts would overheat? I mean... really? I occasionally smell a whiff of coolant when parking or at pedestrian pace but not even sure if its from my car. (Damn GM for not putting a simple radiator cap!!!) And I would think that, having blown head gaskets in a 67 Toronado and a 69 Cutlass SS :surprise: (among others, and before I decided to pretend to be responsible) that I would already have been able to diagnose such, were it the case with my current Olds Sweetheart. Has GM NEVER let slip some inbred cause for this plague? Or is it just another "O WELL" like the oil seal leak behind the tranny?
A few other "gotta love'ms" about my 'Rora are the fuel gauge making a beeline for empty once it gets to 1/4 tank like its late for church. The CD player which not only won't play CDs, but doesnt want to give them back either. The 2 to 5 second pause between turning the key and when the starter actually kicks in. The "whenever I feel like it" check engine light. The constant, though not terminal oil leak, that would require dissassembling the entire vehicle to access and repair. Rollercoastering the temp control to get it to wake up and control the temp. And staring mournfully at the cracked left corner of the dash, cursing the day I smacked it with my knee.
And is it just me or is the driver's side fender always the first body damage on any aurora? (Is there some unwritten law?) :confuse:
She has quite the history which I'd love to share sometime, and I wouldn't trade her for... well.. lets just say I also had a '91 Integra for 10 years. Last march I sold IT and kept the car that costs more to register, insure, repair, drive, and put gas in.
I would consider the water pump may have failed; or the temp sending unit. Maybe a flush needed? blown head gasket could also do it. good luck.
I've got one too, but nary a scratch on it. (knock on wood).
The other (more likely I think) source of the humming is the air pump for the auto-leveling rear suspension. It would be unusual for a fuel pump to fail at 50,00 miles. The suspension is much easier to fix.
If the problem is your fuel pump, I would recommend using only AC Delco and replace the fuel-level sender at the same time. There have been many more problems reported on this board for erratic fuel guage than failed fuel pumps.
If you DIY, you will need a spanner to remove the retaining ring that secures the module to the tank. You can do the job from inside the trunk (as opposed to dropping the fuel tank as with many vehicles) after removing the access panel, but it is not an easy job.
Hope this helps.
Les
The AC turns on with defrost because that is the way the system is designed to work. Your windshield clears much faster that way because the air is dried by the AC evaporator.
Hope this helps.
Les
Les
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Lyonnell
John
These suckers are pricey. But since the battery avoids the extremes of the elements, both temperature and moisture, by being located under the back seat, they really last. The mechanic doing the swap told me he never saw an oe battery last that long.
Interstate Megatron Plus MTP 79 with 880 cold cranking amps and an 85 month warranty.
Funny thing. After six weeks of operation with the new battery, the DCM (?) voltage readout still starts out at 15.4-15.5 volts upon startup and slowly drops back to 15.1 volts where it remains steady. Got me wondering if I got a bad battery. Has to support all of the accesories: power everything, including dual heated seats and that load levelling pump. I'm sure the voltage readout is not dead accurate, but.........
Had the alternator, serpentine belt, and idler pully replaced 2/07 at 73,000 mi. Belt does not seem to be loose or slipping.
Is this abnormal? Got me wondering that, if it ain't the battery or charging system, whether I should be looking for a short or hidden lights that are not shutting off (glove box, trunk, etc.). BTW, I noticed the engine idle when the engine is warm sometimes temporarily increase from 700 rpm to about 950, then drop back down when I'm sitting at a light, only with heated seats deployed.
Or perhaps this forum has me paranoid! Any observations?
The vehicle experiences a varying amount of vibration (apparently) from the front wheels at between 73-77 MPH. (No problem is experienced at lower or higher speeds.) The amount of vibration is at its lowest when coasting (neither accelerating nor decelerating) but varies significantly from being hardly noticeable to being consistent to the amount of shake experienced when braking with moderately warped brake rotors.
I have had this vibration problem with three different sets of tires: 1) the OEM Michelins, 2) a replacement set of Dunlops, and 3) the current Goodyears (which were provided via a factory “adjustment”.) The problem is better (but still persists) after a “standard” computer tire balancing but will completely disappear (for a few thousand miles) if I have the tires “road force balanced” by my local Cadillac (formerly Olds) dealer. However, this balancing costs $20 @ tire and is hard to justify on an ongoing basis.
The Cadillac/Olds dealer simply indicates that Olds Auroras (and similar GM vehicles built on this platform) tended to be more sensitive to tire balance than most vehicles and I simply need to invest in the road force tire balances. Is it possible that a broken motor mount and out-of-balance axle shaft could be causing this problem? Is a small amount of side-to-side rim variance (described below) enough to cause this problem?
Additional factors of note include the following:
1) When I originally purchased the vehicle and checked with Olds to see what (if any) warranty work had been performed on the vehicles, I discovered that 3 or the 4 original Michelin tires had been replaced to address a vibration problem;
2) The vehicle has the OEM optional factory alloy (chrome) wheels. When the local Goodyear dealer installed the current set of tires, they indicated that two of the rims had a small amount of side-to-side run-out, with the worst varying by amount 1/16th on inch;
3) I have replaced the front rotors once and resurfaced the rotors a second time within any impact on the vibration problem.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Apparently some play in the bearings has developed over 108K miles. Was told not to worry..........Only occurs when burning too much fuel anyway!
Henry
I changed tires a couple of years ago expecting a change - but still the same problem. so I do not think that tires were the problem.
some folks i spoke with said that their 1998 Aurora had no vibration problems so I continue to be perplexed.
I have looked to trade the car in but every time I do so, I am not able to find a car that is as attractive to me in features, performance and styling. However, I did buy a 2008 Solstice GXP the other month as a summer fun car but I'm keeping the Aurora for a long time.
Someone suggested that the problem could be the"1/2 shaft". What is the"1/2 shaft" and how could it be causing the vibration only at the specified speeds? Would appreciate knowing if anyone was able to fully solve the vibration issue and how.
Johnnie boy
Same complaint. Same speeds under load and acceleration, vibration lessens when coasting, Rebalancing using conventional equipment didn't help. Swapping out tires met with some success. Seems like a fairly common problem. And you've touched on the most common solution: force balance. But there's not a ton of these road force balancing machines out there because of the expense to buy them. Call around.
I've got 83K on a 98 Autobahn. Same problem started as soon as I swapped out the oem Michelins at 40K. Went through Dunlop A2Sports in misery, even after NTB swapped out 3 of the 4, and after rebalancing (more than twice), though the tire swap mitigated the problem somewhat. Stated issue by NTB: tire and rim runout, which you could see and measure when NTB was working on the car. I wasn't about to get into swapping out rims or paying $150 per tire, even though NTB was willing to swap out/credit the Dunlops at price paid.
Yup, I believe GM/Oldsmobile has a TSB re same issue. Why not noticeable on the (expensive) Michelins? Tighter roundness specs.
The problem on my car persisted at a lesser rate as the Dunlops wore and were rotated regularly. Throughout the life of these tires, I refused to let them rebalance for fear the problem would worsen. By the way, NTB near me stopped carrying this Dunlop tire because the complaints were not from just Aurora owners.
At about 73K I put on some Yokohama AvidV4S and cringed. However, these seemed to eliminate about 90% of the vibration. One of the best tires price/performance I've ever owned, and I'm an old fart.
I'm not saying your halfshafts aren't the problem, but the tires would be my suspicion. Good luck.
I have done a topic search and had decided to just let well enough be with the new Coopers I put on the other year. A little better than the previous Good Year's. As an "old fart" like you, I think I'll just continue to let it be except I may try a "force balance" one of these days to just see if that would really make a difference or whether my existing tires do not have a sufficient amount of "tighter roundness".
Thanks again and season's greetings.
Alignment also is a factor. It needs to be precisely middle of the specs--none of this "you're within the range allowed so we don't need to reset it. Just pay your $89.95 at the front desk."
Michelins have rolled rounder and this has been true back into the days of tubed tires. GM was putting Michlins on some cars that hadn't come with them when I bought my LeSabre with Symmetrys on it--one reason I bought that model. They also had TSBs about replacing some bushings or some suspension parts on varying applications of the stiffened chassis that started on the Aurora/Riviera.
My service manager at the dealer started life as an alignment guy. He loved the Hunter Force Balancer and used it along with his trained tech. The Michelins I had were better rolling tires than the Factory-supplied Force Balanced tires they sent to put on some cars which were exhibiting vibration problems. My highest tire was rated at 12; the others were 6,8,9. Of course the rim is a factor in that too.
Located a Hunter 9700 in your area. Hunter, find a page.
Many years ago I noticed the local vocational school had Hunter 9700s right next to the standard balancers.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,