Florida climate is about the best (except for rust) place to live for oil life. The new engines never seem to overheat so the oil temps remain low, Florida has little dust (sand is usually big and easily trapped) so I'm not suprized that your oil light has not gone off (I grew up in Satellite Beach, Fl).
I'd run 10W-30 in Florida probably year round, and might stretch the oil change intervals to 5K if you are doing longer trips.
I think most of us worry too much about oil change intervals as compared to the damage and rapid wear caused by whomping on the engine when it is cold.......
I had the dealer do the change this time because it cost $20 and it was done in 30 min. I will probably do it myself next time. I have always run 10W-30 year round because it just doesn't get cold enough to warrant a lighter grade. I noticed that the filter hangs straight down. Is it a good idea to fill the filter with oil before it is replaced on the engine? Maybe it helps the engine a little so that it doesn't have to pump w/out the oil completely in the system.
The only thing bad about N. central Fla. is the humidity. 95 temp w/ 95% humidity is rough on us humans but I guess the engine on "the truck" doesn't really care.
Thanks for the input. I'll keep you posted on mileage on my trip to the Appalachians.
Does anyone have a clue when the 2000 prices will be out? A dealer has ordered me one and said it would be about 3% over '99s. Just wanting to get an idea of where my pocket book needs to be.
Can anyone clear up the suspension choices? More specifically, what about the ZX3 manual selectable suspension. Is this worth the extra money or will it go unnoticed. Also, If i'm looking at a plain jane 2WD with the soft suspension and I upgrade to a 4WD, what suspension do I automatically get? Do 4WD's have a soft suspension or is that limited to 2WD's
The 2WD truck is going to have a more compliant ride than the 4WD truck under all circumstances. (Plus you get rack and pinion steering)
ZX3 worth it? I don't know anyone who has it!
If you go with 4WD, the Z83 is the softer shock. Z85 is heavy duty, and Z71 is off-road, the stiffest.
But remember, the springs are the same on all of them. And they have as much to do with the feel as the shocks. The springs set the ride height for the particular weight classification the truck is in, and influence the feel you get under compression. On the rebound stroke, the shock makes the difference.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about ZX3. You will be replacing them at some point anyway, probably not with what came installed, so why bother?
I want to order a 2000 model. I will do some towing, but I am unsure if I should order the 6.0L engine with the 3.73 or 4.10 differential. The 3.73 should get a little better mileage. Also, does 4wd help any when towing or is 2wd good enough. With the little snow we get in Tennessee, I need 4wd maybe 1 or 2 days a year. Last winter, I never would have used it. Is the 4.10 much better for towing? Is the 3.73 good enough? Does 4wd help a lot when towing especially when towing on unpaved roads? What is the groups experience to date?
Jim my experience was that I needed 4WD about 3 times last winter. That's not much, but I was sure glad I had it at those times. I can't say how much it would be worth to you. It's a value judgement.
The difference between the 3.73 and 4.10 is only about 10%. Either can do the job, but the 4.10 will tow with slightly less effort, and return slightly worse economy 5-10% when empty, but maybe no worse at all when towing or loaded.
I never tow in 4WD mode. Not saying that you can't, but if conditions are so questionable that I might need it, I would also be wondering if I should be venturing out at all with a trailer under those circumstances. I'm sure it would be fine to pull your trailer out of a mud hole, or down a slippery back road on occasion.
Well I considered my self pretty lucky until now. My 99 GMC Sierra has not had any real problems until now. I was having a cap and bug shield put on it and the fuel pump decided to take a vacation! Rude considering I am supposed to leave on my vacation tomorrow!
Right now it is at the dealer trying to get a new fuel pump installed. He said that this is the first one that they have seen bad on the 99's. That is good news, the bad news is that because no one has seen this problem no one has the part in stock. Had to order from GM. If it does not come in and get installed tomorrow - no vacation.....
Anyone else have any probs with fuel pump? It just went out yesterday morning. I drove it fine to the cap place and they tried to start it and nothing. The GMC dealer said that it was delivering inconsistent flow and that was the problem. He had better be right!
Need some help deciding between a 1500/2500 sierra.My main concern is how harsh is the ride of the 2500,compared to the 1500,both having z83 suspension. I prefer a firmer ride,and leaning toward the 2500.But if I will feel every tar stripe on the road,it may not be what I want.My fear with the 2500,is that I would be stopping at every gas station,to empty my bladder. The truck would be used for pleasure,to and from work.And towing a fishing boat. I really like that the 2500 sits higher than the 1500.Basically,the same height as a 4wd. The price differance is $1250,but 2500 will have the 5300 engine,compared to the 4800 in the 1500. If anyone has test driven these 2,I would appreciate their opinion.
I'm thinking about buying a GMC 1999 Sierra SLE 4x4 Extended cab w/ the 5.3 liter v-8 and automatic transmission. I've been reading about vibration, driveline growl, and pinging problems. Are these fixable problems or is there a major problem with the GM trucks? I'm trying to decide whether to buy new or keep my 1993 GMC. Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Have seen numerous questions about 2000 GMC's. I ordered one on June 9th, and was told that it should be delivered by mid August. They did not have any information on pricing, or on whether or not the fourth door would be included. I doubt that the dealers will want consumers to find out that the 2000's will come out in August with a fourth door it they still have 3 door 1999's on their lot to sell! If anyone knows anything else about the 2000, please share your informaiton.
T. Roper - Thanks for the suspension info. One more question though - Cane you get a 1500 4X4 with the Z83 suspension shocks for a softer ride? I understand the 4X4 springs will give me increased height and a stiffer ride, but will GMC put soft shocks on a 4X4? Any feedback will be appreciated. Thanks
I believe Z83 suspension is what comes on the 1500 4x4...unless you get a tow package. Then you must upgrade to either Z85 heavy duty or Z71 off-road. The Z85 I drove was nice and compliant.
My ping is fixed, but never did have the driveline growl or vibrations.
5.3L engine has plenty of power (270 hp), gets good fuel mileage too.
Just bought a new Sierra.5.3 L engine 4wd Ext cab.Pick it up tomorrow.I always believe in synthetic oil(do a lot of towing) but should I not run it in a new truck during break in time?This is my first new vehicle.Any thoughts? Thanks
Actually the 6.0 is the "weak" engine in the lineup. Per liter of displacement the 5.3 has
59 ft.lbs 51 hp
the 6.0 a little is lesser at
58 ft lbs 50 hp
If they put aluminum heads on the 6.0, then it will really be a hoss, and get better mileage. the concept 6.0 SS has aluminum heads, and almost 400 ftlb of torque, WITHOUT any mods!
5.3 is awesome in the half ton truck for power and silky smoothness. Tows great. they should have driveline probs worked out on the 2000 models, not very smart if they don't.
you used to have a 350 vortec, right? well the 5.3 pulls better than the old 350 vortec! its not just total torque, its the torque curve!!!!
true, the 5.3 doesn't have the pull from a stop, low end grunt of the 5.7 or the 6.0. but going down the highway, up a hill or trying to pass someone, the 5.3 is better pulling than the old 350.
I'd say it cuts the mustard pretty well. and gets 4 or 5 mpg better than the 6.0, which is quite important to me. If i'm going to have an engine that gets the mileage of a 454, i'd like to have the power of the 454, which the 6.0 does not. hopefully with a few improvements they will either improve the mileage and/or power of the 6.0.
I have a Sierra 2500 2WD, 6l, 4.10 ltd slip axle, Z85 suspension. The ride is real nice for a 3/4 ton. I run my tires 45 PSI front, 60 back.
I had the rear axle swapped from 3.73 to 4.10 at about 4500 miles. I would have gotten a 4.10 originally (occasionally tow ~8500 lb boat), but there was only a 3.73 available so I gave it a shot. I made several modifications (new axle, Airaid, Pace-Edwards roll-top) right around 4500 miles, so I cannot be sure what effect each had.
The first 4000 miles, I got between 12-13 MPG with my normal driving. After about 5000 miles, I've been getting around 14 MPG (Suburban Orlando). On the interstate (70-80 MPH), I get about 15.5 MPG.
Towing the boat at 60 MPH, it gets a consistent 7 MPG. The boat has a lot of windage. The truck also has a traction problem pulling the boat out on slick ramps. I keep a 600 lb "Fat Sac" water bladder in the bed for ballast when needed and I bought a set of "RampTrax" which also help the traction problem. As a last resort, we sometimes use the "jet assisted takeoff" using the twin 150 outboards to help get things moving on the ramp.
I am planning on purchasing a 2000 Sierra, shortbox, sportside, 2wd. I am debating between the 4.8 and the 5.3. I am not planning on doing much towing, but do like a quick truck. Has anyone heard anything on much of a difference between the engines functioning. Also i am considering the 3.73 rear axle ratio over the 3.42, is this a smart choice or am i better off with the 3.73.
I have the 5.3 with an automatic and the 3.42 differential. I am getting the same vibration in first gear when pulling away from a stop that several others have seen. It becomes a VERY BAD vibration when pulling a load. The truck almost shudders.
Has anyone's dealer been able to fix the problem? If yes, I would appreciate knowing how they did it so I can share it with mine. Thanks
I'm looking at the 2000 4wd 1500. Enjoyed the comments from everyone. Some notes from an engineer... * The best indicator of performance is ft-lb of torque per pound of truck weight, and horsepower per pound of truck weight. Also, look at the hp and torque curves (plotted vs. rpm). The flattest curves mean you have more "punch" over a wider rpm range, i.e., off-the -line, passing, and towing. * Cast-iron heads on the 6.0 liter engine may be to prevent hot engine (from towing, etc.) thermal expansion problems with dissimilar metals (alum head and cast iron block). ?? * Vibration problems in the driveline may be due to a new (and marginal) design, poor maintenance of tolerances in the manufacture of the drivetrain, etc. Manufacturability issues are the easiest to fix. Bad design is the toughest to fix during manufacture. Keep the comments coming. I'd like to hear about highway mpg on the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 engines.
Has anyone found any tow mirrors that slide over the existing mirrors on a 1999 Sierra that they are happy with.Trouble finding them for this truck.Thanks in advance.
Launch shutter is being worked by the enginners at GM,, Last I heard (today) they are coming out with a leaf spring that will stiffen the rear end and not alow the differential to twist.. the twist is whats causing the launch shutter puts the ujoint in a bind until the leaf spring relaxes please have patience its in the testing stage and should be on the market real soon... not for sale but dealership market for repair.. a quick temp fix is to put a wedged shim between the rear differential and the leaf spring, takes about 40 mins to do and the vehilce need to hang in the rear end to accomplish this, the dealer ship should know about this repair and be willing to try Sorry for the problems but as a tech I have been working trying to solve these new problems have patience with us were trying. Steve
Thanks for the help. Dealer will not try anything until GM issues a TSB. Claims TA instructed them not to mess with 65+ shimmy/shake until TSB. Be glad when its issued. He thinks its angle of drive shaft. Called Ser Mgr and also Emailed the HUB B8 and B9 info to service mgr. Maybe he will call Tech for the PI. Thanks again.
No problem I will stick to this place and See what help you all get... As of right now your not getting much,,, Come to OKLAHOMA and let me fix your trucks.. I am so tired of hearing that you cant get support, makes me mad, sorry for there confusion... I have worked this problem for 4 months to find a cure, and I stuck to it, and I never told a customer it was normal, and now we have a cure, just have to convence your dealerships that there is one if they would just listen and open there minds a little.. I also dont know if this is good or bad My service manager told me yesterday that I will be the only one that gets to work this problem, from the way is sounds I will be busy for a long time,,, sorry guys steve
I've just come on for the first time here looking for information on the new Sierra. I'm going to be purchasing one in the very near future. I'm going for a 2500 4x4 Ext. Cab LB HD. Is this launch shudder you all are talking about true for all models?
Launch Shudder in the 3/4 ton hasnt been bad and in the 4x4 almost not heard of. But with the K2500 the suspension is stouter and they have not had the problems as the 2 wheel drive 1/2 tons. You are looking at one of the best trucks yet hope you get one Steve
I am thinking really hard on a 5.3 1500. I pull a 8000lb 5th wheel. Would like to hear from some trailer or 5th wheel pullers. I've talked to couple that pull 9000 and 11,000 and are real happy. I really want a GM over a Cummins or Powerstroke because of the noise, and 70% of the time I'm not pulling and want the ride. My son-in-law sells Fords but says he will still love me anyway.
I'm also looking to buy the 1500 Silverado or Sierra. I tow a 27' travel trailer that has a loaded weight of about 5800 lbs. I'm told that the 1500 will easily do the job but I worry about the possiblility of moving up to a heavier rig (slide out). All of the dealers say that I am well within the weight range of the 1500. Has anyone heard about the towing history of a 1500 extended cab?
Just purchased a new SLE extended cab 4X4, 5.3, Z71, Z82, 3.73 locking axle and virtually everything else except leather at, are you ready for this: $100 UNDER invoice at a local Detroit dealer. How? By taking advantage of my AAA membership and their discount car buying benefit. If you belong to AAA call them up and ask about a car buying service. They will hook you up with a particpating dealer and a contact at the dealer. No hassle, no haggling. Just a good, quick deal. They had the truck on the lot and within about 30 minutes in paperwork, it was a done deal. I pick it up today.
First, does anyone have the 4.8 AUTO with either regular or extended cab? If so, what has your gas mileage been - can you really get 21 mpg?
Second, as for the shimmy, vibration, growl, etc -are GMC dealers doing anything about it? It sounds as if the problem has been found, so isnt it just a matter of fixing the problem. Also, how durable are these trucks - is 100,000 miles + possible? Seems like many are saying 60,000 and then it dumps out.
Im considering buying, but unsure if its worth a "20,000 dollar gamble". Is poor maintenance the reason for short life - my reasoning is this: people who buy cheapest (cost) truck may not have $ to properly maintain it? all responses welcome.
I have a GMC Sierra SL reg. cab, 4.8L, 3.42 rear end, auto and I'm getting pretty good mileage. In town I'm averaging 17-18. I just got back from a trip--going 75-80 mph with the AC running I got 19.3. As for the durability of the truck, I don't think you should worry too much. I believe that if a person stays on top of the oil change/fresh fluids routine, the engine should last a long time(as long as you don't dog it out on a regular basis). I don't think any vehicle now days can be rode hard and put up wet without something giving in. Take good care of it and it will take good care of you.
all i was looking for was input - not sarcasm. toyota had faulty v-6 gaskets, BUT they also replaced them and/or refunded customers who had it done....8 years or 100,000 miles into the cars life, thats taking care of a customer.
g8tr... have you had the shimmy, growl, etc problem?
Thanks for the pat on the back,,, I wish everyone in my shop was as egar to work to fix the problems, but I have found that I dedicate more time to making the customer happy than making money,, I have also heard that what goes around comes around and I AM WAITING hahahaha..... I enjoy working on cars and trucks, and after almost 30 years of doing it, It never cises to surprize me of how greedy some people are,,, and unwilling to do any research, they would rather make the customer mad and send them on there way then to find a fix... Thats why I get the all the greatful customer and repeat business.... thanks again Steve
I too, appreciate what you have done so far. I still cannot get the service manager to read your postings. He thinks the parts inventory for this type of job (without GM supplying the parts as part of a TSB) would be horrendous if he were tackle this on his own. They did do somemore work on the rear transmission mount, drive shaft and pinion alignment area. They managed to get some of the vibration and shimmy out, but it's still there (however, not as bad as before, moderate). The service manager did say that he drove my truck on the interstate and he does in fact notice the shimmy. I told him I wanted "ZERO". But, he said that according to GM's guidelines, it was acceptable and within normal limits. The service advisor (the clown in the driveway) told me (while I was picking up the truck) basically, "that if it looks like a truck, therefore it must act, drive and ride like a truck". Ha! That response didn't sit to well with me, so I called GMC's 800 number and filed a complaint against the dealer and I also received a case number. I am now waiting for a GMC rep to show up.
You mentioned before that you were going to a school to attend some classes and to meet with some GM engineers. I take it (from your latest post) that someone has listened to you finally and that something is afoot. I sure hope so. When do you think it will happen?
Spoke to a GMC dealer the other day, aside from his own ignorance of the truck and any of the reported problems to date, he did manage to get in that the GMC engine is set up for 100,000 mile maintenance free driving. What that means is no new plugs, coolant, trans fluid or tune-ups until 100K miles. From my own experience and the number of wrong answers that clown had, I'ld say you could expect at least 50K miles of maintenance free (except for oil changes and tire rotation)driving. You'll start to see belt and hose wear by then. If you push your luck you might get a good 75K miles before a major failure. If you pay close attention to the maint schedule you could go the whole way without replacing a major "a". If you go base like it sounds you are, doing your own maintenance may be a little easier. I haven't seen a lot of room in the engine compartment or to many shade tree workable areas. I like doing my own routine maintenance as well. Engine compartment room, ease of access to the plugs, belts, fluid points, and grease fittings is a major concern of mine. About the fixes: sounds like the problems are only coming from the 2wd version. GM has corrected some problems but has not fixed some of the more annoying ones. You can check out some of the problems and fixes to date (unofficial) at the 99 Silverado vibrations topic on this BB.
I do have a shimmy problem. However, I don't think it is as severe as knobby's situation. It seems to be a tire problem. If you go SL like I did and 2wd, you'll get General tires and I think that is where the shimmy is coming from. On Tues (7/13) my dealer is doing a complete tire swap to another brand from another truck to see if it is in fact the tires. I have also had a sharp shift from 2nd to 3rd. It was especially noticeable when I first got the truck but now it seems much better. The shift points were adjusted by getting the computer flashed with the new updates and that seemed to fix the problem. So far the problems have been minor and the truck drives very nice. Once we get this shimmy from the tires (I hope) taken care of, we'll be good to go.
Some time ago, I installed some Air-Lift pneumatic helper springs. You can raise the ride height of the cargo box several inches with these, although the intent is you maintain a constant ride height under varying cargo loads.
I just don't notice much effect, or see a tendency for a noise or vibration to creep in from changing the pinion angle with this method, but then I do not have a vibration problem to begin with, so this is moot. (I thought perhaps I could simulate an angle where it would.)
If it was me, I would strongly consider taking my truck to Steve in Oklahoma (scraw), and even buy my next one from his dealership for doing what the others are regrettably, unwilling to do, some research. I'm close enough for that. But I must add that Burt Chevrolet in Denver has provided me with good service also. Thanks Steve!
I would be more than happy to take my GMC Sierra 2dr, long bed to Steve's dealership in Oklahoma, but alas, that would be out of the question at this time. It would involve at the least, a two day trip from South Florida to get there. However, what I read into and interpret from Steve's posting #261, there might be a light at the end of the tunnel. When? I'll just have to wait and see. I tried going the the other way, by preloading the rear of the frame with ~400 lbs. of sand bags to see if this changed the pinion angle and to see if this would reduce the vibration any (it didn't). Like I said in my previous post, the dealer did do some more work on the drive shaft, transmission mount and aligned the pinion angle with the transmission. The shimmy is not as severe as before, but it is still there and noticable. The service manager is aware of this and will give me a call when the GM rep comes around later to see the truck. More later about the outcome.
Comments
I'd run 10W-30 in Florida probably year round, and might stretch the oil change intervals to 5K if you are doing longer trips.
I think most of us worry too much about oil change intervals as compared to the damage and rapid wear caused by whomping on the engine when it is cold.......
The only thing bad about N. central Fla. is the humidity. 95 temp w/ 95% humidity is rough on us humans but I guess the engine on "the truck" doesn't really care.
Thanks for the input. I'll keep you posted on mileage on my trip to the Appalachians.
ZX3 worth it? I don't know anyone who has it!
If you go with 4WD, the Z83 is the softer shock. Z85 is heavy duty, and Z71 is off-road, the stiffest.
But remember, the springs are the same on all of them. And they have as much to do with the feel as the shocks. The springs set the ride height for the particular weight classification the truck is in, and influence the feel you get under compression. On the rebound stroke, the shock makes the difference.
Personally, I wouldn't worry about ZX3. You will be replacing them at some point anyway, probably not with what came installed, so why bother?
The difference between the 3.73 and 4.10 is only about 10%. Either can do the job, but the 4.10 will tow with slightly less effort, and return slightly worse economy 5-10% when empty, but maybe no worse at all when towing or loaded.
I never tow in 4WD mode. Not saying that you can't, but if conditions are so questionable that I might need it, I would also be wondering if I should be venturing out at all with a trailer under those circumstances. I'm sure it would be fine to pull your trailer out of a mud hole, or down a slippery back road on occasion.
Right now it is at the dealer trying to get a new fuel pump installed. He said that this is the first one that they have seen bad on the 99's. That is good news, the bad news is that because no one has seen this problem no one has the part in stock. Had to order from GM. If it does not come in and get installed tomorrow - no vacation.....
Anyone else have any probs with fuel pump? It just went out yesterday morning. I drove it fine to the cap place and they tried to start it and nothing. The GMC dealer said that it was delivering inconsistent flow and that was the problem. He had better be right!
I prefer a firmer ride,and leaning toward the 2500.But if I will feel every tar stripe on the road,it may not be what I want.My fear with the 2500,is that I would be stopping at every gas station,to empty my bladder.
The truck would be used for pleasure,to and from work.And towing a fishing boat.
I really like that the 2500 sits higher than the 1500.Basically,the same height as a 4wd.
The price differance is $1250,but 2500 will have the 5300 engine,compared to the 4800 in the 1500.
If anyone has test driven these 2,I would appreciate their opinion.
My ping is fixed, but never did have the driveline growl or vibrations.
5.3L engine has plenty of power (270 hp), gets good fuel mileage too.
Thanks
Actually the 6.0 is the "weak" engine in the lineup. Per liter of displacement the 5.3 has
59 ft.lbs
51 hp
the 6.0 a little is lesser at
58 ft lbs
50 hp
If they put aluminum heads on the 6.0, then it will really be a hoss, and get better mileage. the concept 6.0 SS has aluminum heads, and almost 400 ftlb of torque, WITHOUT any mods!
5.3 is awesome in the half ton truck for power and silky smoothness. Tows great. they should have driveline probs worked out on the 2000 models, not very smart if they don't.
you used to have a 350 vortec, right? well the 5.3 pulls better than the old 350 vortec! its not just total torque, its the torque curve!!!!
true, the 5.3 doesn't have the pull from a stop, low end grunt of the 5.7 or the 6.0. but going down the highway, up a hill or trying to pass someone, the 5.3 is better pulling than the old 350.
I'd say it cuts the mustard pretty well. and gets 4 or 5 mpg better than the 6.0, which is quite important to me. If i'm going to have an engine that gets the mileage of a 454, i'd like to have the power of the 454, which the 6.0 does not. hopefully with a few improvements they will either improve the mileage and/or power of the 6.0.
Puny for the 3/4 ton class but matches well with imitation fender flares.
I had the rear axle swapped from 3.73 to 4.10 at about 4500 miles. I would have gotten a 4.10 originally (occasionally tow ~8500 lb boat), but there was only a 3.73 available so I gave it a shot. I made several modifications (new axle, Airaid, Pace-Edwards roll-top) right around 4500 miles, so I cannot be sure what effect each had.
The first 4000 miles, I got between 12-13 MPG with my normal driving. After about 5000 miles, I've been getting around 14 MPG (Suburban Orlando). On the interstate (70-80 MPH), I get about 15.5 MPG.
Towing the boat at 60 MPH, it gets a consistent 7 MPG. The boat has a lot of windage. The truck also has a traction problem pulling the boat out on slick ramps. I keep a 600 lb "Fat Sac" water bladder in the bed for ballast when needed and I bought a set of "RampTrax" which also help the traction problem. As a last resort, we sometimes use the "jet assisted takeoff" using the twin 150 outboards to help get things moving on the ramp.
Doug
pictures at: www.onewolf.net
If you simply want the fastest truck, get the 4.8 5-speed. I Know. I drove them both.
Hope this helps
Has anyone's dealer been able to fix the problem? If yes, I would appreciate knowing how they did it so I can share it with mine. Thanks
* The best indicator of performance is ft-lb
of torque per pound of truck weight, and
horsepower per pound of truck weight. Also,
look at the hp and torque curves (plotted vs.
rpm). The flattest curves mean you have more
"punch" over a wider rpm range, i.e., off-the
-line, passing, and towing.
* Cast-iron heads on the 6.0 liter engine may be
to prevent hot engine (from towing, etc.)
thermal expansion problems with dissimilar
metals (alum head and cast iron block). ??
* Vibration problems in the driveline may be
due to a new (and marginal) design, poor
maintenance of tolerances in the manufacture
of the drivetrain, etc. Manufacturability
issues are the easiest to fix. Bad design is
the toughest to fix during manufacture.
Keep the comments coming. I'd like to hear about highway mpg on the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0 engines.
Thanks again.
It seems impossible, but I have no vibrations at any speed, at this time.
May buy my next truck there if everyone in the service department is as conscientious as you!
If you belong to AAA call them up and ask about a car buying service. They will hook you up with a particpating dealer and a contact at the dealer. No hassle, no haggling. Just a good, quick deal. They had the truck on the lot and within about 30 minutes in paperwork, it was a done deal. I pick it up today.
First, does anyone have the 4.8 AUTO with either regular or extended cab? If so, what has your gas mileage been - can you really get 21 mpg?
Second, as for the shimmy, vibration, growl, etc -are GMC dealers doing anything about it? It sounds as if the problem has been found, so isnt it just a matter of fixing the problem. Also, how durable are these trucks - is 100,000 miles + possible? Seems like many are saying 60,000 and then it dumps out.
Im considering buying, but unsure if its worth a "20,000 dollar gamble". Is poor maintenance the reason for short life - my reasoning is this: people who buy cheapest (cost) truck may not have $ to properly maintain it? all responses welcome.
As for the durability of the truck, I don't think you should worry too much. I believe that if a person stays on top of the oil change/fresh fluids routine, the engine should last a long time(as long as you don't dog it out on a regular basis). I don't think any vehicle now days can be rode hard and put up wet without something giving in. Take good care of it and it will take good care of you.
g8tr... have you had the shimmy, growl, etc problem?
PS your not going to have a vibration
PSS Now keep repeating that line
You mentioned before that you were going to a school to attend some classes and to meet with some GM engineers. I take it (from your latest post) that someone has listened to you finally and that something is afoot. I sure hope so. When do you think it will happen?
About the fixes: sounds like the problems are only coming from the 2wd version. GM has corrected some problems but has not fixed some of the more annoying ones. You can check out some of the problems and fixes to date (unofficial) at the 99 Silverado vibrations topic on this BB.
Phil
So far the problems have been minor and the truck drives very nice. Once we get this shimmy from the tires (I hope) taken care of, we'll be good to go.
I just don't notice much effect, or see a tendency for a noise or vibration to creep in from changing the pinion angle with this method, but then I do not have a vibration problem to begin with, so this is moot. (I thought perhaps I could simulate an angle where it would.)
If it was me, I would strongly consider taking my truck to Steve in Oklahoma (scraw), and even buy my next one from his dealership for doing what the others are regrettably, unwilling to do, some research. I'm close enough for that. But I must add that Burt Chevrolet in Denver has provided me with good service also. Thanks Steve!