Volvo Maintenance and Repair

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
Please share any problems and solutions you've experienced with your Volvo!

Owner's Clubs


  • jmccormick1jmccormick1 Member Posts: 4
    Are there any mods available to improve the rough ride. It's fine on pavement but driving on a dirt road is near impossible. I've heard that the v70 was improved with different shocks and springs. Are these available for a 96 850. Thanks
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Do you have a turbo, or maybe an R version wagon? Those are going to have stiffer suspensions, and some folks have complained about harshness. My turbo has a great, taunt European ride on the pavement too, and does pretty good on gravel. Hates manhole covers and those nice divits that you find on the road, and rutty intersections are murder unless you go slower. If the ride isn't rattly, or clunky, then everything is probably working correctly and it's just the shock/spring package. There might be shock packages out there for you (try IPD ) that could help you out. Best bet is, if you have a Turbo, is buy a set of 15" rims (Turbos would have 16" rims, Rs have 17" rims) and the ride does get much better, at a loss in handling. I use 15" rims for winter tires and the ride difference is night and day.


  • jmccormick1jmccormick1 Member Posts: 4
    I have 15" wheels. The rutty/accordion patterns that develop in the dirt cause the most intense vibration. Does anyone know if the replacement Bilstein struts and shocks would help or is it just a bad design for dirt and not fixable? I read somewhere where the suspension was changed on the V70 to try and fix this. Suggestions other than sale?
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    ...a set of Bilsteins, with the stock T-5 springs, and the ride is just a tad firmer than stock, but the rebound frequency is much higher, so the suspension responds lightning fast to the road surface...without being jittery. I really don't know if they would solve your problem. Possibly, you could have worn lower suspension bushings? I know I'll get a tou for this (Plz spare me this once KarenS?) but you should try going to the 850 forum over at the Brickboard and post your question. There are tons of folks there that have "tried everything" and the knowledge-base is incredible there.

    Best of luck1


  • scottc3scottc3 Member Posts: 137
    I have a CD stuck in the 4X deck on the S80 / 2000. Any idea how to remove the radio to get at the CD's? (Panel removal).. I'm mechanical enough that once I can get at the CD changer, I can get the CD out.. but don't want to ruin the trim getting the radio out.


  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Check out the new Maintenance Guide! Link is provided in the Additional Resource Box.

    Owner's Clubs
  • p2engineerp2engineer Member Posts: 1
    What the Europeans know and are doing...

    In 1997 European automakers started recommending 18,000-Miles + between oil change intervals and that was after over a decade of 9,000-Miles between oil change intervals.

    European automakers must still have better engineered engine technology...or

    HOW ABOUT THIS FROM: - Mr. Mike McMillan of General Motors "Extending Drain Intervals is an important issue for us. We definitely want to be the leader in Extended Drain Intervals."

    I Think You Will Be Interested In This Mobil 1 Secret

    Mr. Pryor of Mobil made the following statement about the benefits of it's introduction of Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic Motor Oil (1996) in a Mobil Publication.

    "It's a highly advanced low-phosphorus synthetic that works well with engine catalyst systems to further reduce emissions. It also provides greater protection against engine wear."

    Then he goes on to say "In fact, this technology will play a big role in a global trend among engine manufacturers, especially in Europe (WHY NOT in US???$$$$$), to extend oil change intervals to 45,000 kilometers (27,900 miles) and beyond. He adds that new low viscosity versions, such as 0w-20 and 0w-30 are formulated to provide better fuel economy as well as greater engine protection."

    As usual Mobil BEHIND THE TIMES and NOT Telling US consumers the whole TRUTH...

    If you listen around, you'll hear experts cited in the oil industry - Have you never heard any of these? "Synthetics are too expensive. They'll never sell." "Synthetics are a fad." "Oil should be changed every three thousand miles, even if it's synthetic."

    I suppose it does me little good to quote experts who think otherwise...

    Recent tests at Mobil have even demonstrated synthetic motor oils with a three year ( 25,000 mile) life span.

    HOWEVER since 1995 The Col's made in USA Advanced QUALITY-FIRST Formulated Extended Drain Interval Synthetic Motor Oil is Volvo Approved...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    What else have you checked? I mean, I know this is elementary and all, but you have checked to make sure you are getting spark, right?

    I don't know anything about this model car, but it would seem odd that there are 2 relays. I mean, what would be the point? What else would need power accept the pump? Unless the injectors have their own relay.

    Pretty easy, though. Pull a spark plug and crank it. Is it getting fuel? (the fuel will come shooting out of the hole) If so, then fuel delivery is not your problem.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • kjewelkjewel Member Posts: 19
    Just had my 2000 T-6's 30k service, including replacement of front brake pads. After service, pedal travel increased. Took it back, they agreed and replaced master cylinder. Picked it up and travel is still greater than original.

    Maint foreman said he checked three other S80s and two of them had the increased travel and one did not. I asked how pedal travel coould change with installation of new pads and brake bleed and master cyl. replacement. They haven't a clue.

    The brakes still work GREAT, but the pedal travels about 20% further to perform same functions as before the service. Anybody seen or heard of this "feature"?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    well, it could improve with time. How much have you driven since getting it back? The calipers may just need time to adjust.

    This is a completely wild guess and I've never had the problem for more than a few seconds after changing brakes, but who knows. Usually have to "pump the brakes up" to get the pedal back.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • wishnhigh1wishnhigh1 Member Posts: 363
    It is pretty typical to get only 9 or 10 volts at the fuel pump. Not all cars get a full 12 volts at the pump especially if there is a bunch of other wiring or if the pump is far away from the battery. If it is less than 9 volts, I would check the relays.

    Otherwise, yes it would be a good idea to check to see if you are getting spark.
  • jeffnjmejeffnjme Member Posts: 36
    Has anyone been successful in locating a dealer in the US that will discount the Volvo extended warranty. I used (Toyota of Iowa City) and saved a significant amount of $$ and am hoping to be able to do the same for my new S60T5.

    thanks and best wishes for a happy and healthy 2002
  • ponghpongh Member Posts: 8
    just replaced the passenger side wheel bearing and drive shaft for $1130 at 80K miles, I am the original owner and plan to keep this car for long time, can anyone please comment on this?
  • esatheresather Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1999 used S-80. I am having a degree of difficulty with the HVAC system. I cannot seem to get the heater going when the car is originally cold at starting. Even after driving 10-15 minutes, I am flipping the auto off and on, resetting the temp, etc. and etc. It continues to blow cold air. I found nothing in the owner's manual for this.

    I live in NY where the temp outside is in the teens and low 20's.

    Any advice?
  • dabaerdabaer Member Posts: 7
    My '99 S-80 has been a wonderful car to drive. I just passed the 110,000 mile mark and am looking to go another 100,000.
    Over the last 2 years I have replaced headlights on both sides and both beams twice. Rear break lights and rear turn signals three times each.

    The transmission issue I have read in other posting about freezing up and unable to move for about three to four minutes is common for me in cold weather(glad I live in Virginia where it really does not get very cold!).

    An engine mount broke at 80,000 miles. I replaced the drive chain or belt at 100,000 miles. First time for the dealership.

    My big concern is the amount of oil I am going through! I have used mobil one synthetic oil from day one and progressively have seen the amount of oil I am adding to top off after the long driving sales trips leap to about a quart of oil at every 1000 miles! I change my oil religiously at 5000 miles and carry a trunk full of filters because the shop that changes the oil had difficulty getting them.

    Back to the oil usage issue. I make jack rabbit starts and hard stops. My driving involves mostly long cruises two to three hours at a time of 60 MPH without a stop. The only evidence I can detect of where the oil is going is the emissions I see at night in the rear view mirror reflected from the lights of the cars behind me. And this is only present when I floor the accelerator in moving one of my jack rabbit starts or getting around some one in a hurry, ie. from about 50 to 65 I'll really 'floor it' and when I peak at the rear view I can see the smoke trail I just left behind. No oil in the drive or leaks of any kind. No smoky emissions in the initial morning start ups.

    At this rate I am going through a lot of oil to top off before beginning trips. Gas mileage is about the same as when I purchased the car about 24 miles per gallon. The oil issue is a real concern in my long term plans to make this a 'long term' keeper. Any one have any ideas of what is going on? the dealer told me some oil 'burning' is normal but he is concerned about the amount I have been using lately. He offers no solution.
    Any ideas?
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Wow man, what do you do for a living? Those are some miles! Wonderful to see the car's going strong for you.

    I believe the standard schpeel is that your Volvo will go through a quart of oil per 1000 miles. I've heard this from a number of sources, although I'm skeptical about this. I've had that kind of consumption twice with my 854t, and generally go thru a quart every 2-3000 miles.

    happy motoring,

  • dabaerdabaer Member Posts: 7
    thanks for your comments javadoc
    i guess the 100,ooo per quart is life with a volvo

    oh I am in sales and drive to DC from charlottesville, Va two to three times per week plus other destination sin the state of VA so I get a lot of 'butt time'
  • woolston1woolston1 Member Posts: 3
    I have had my headlight assemblies changed four times since I took delivery of the car. The last time, this week since there was condensation in the side lights, they were changed. There is no argument or hassle with the dealer,all done under warranty (30,00 kms at present)
    I also recall reading some where either here or on another Forum that there is a solution to a downhill overrun when in cruise. I have that condition, but the Volvo(Canada)dealer service rep.said that it was normal. Does any one have a definitive answer to these two items.
  • swoodallswoodall Member Posts: 1
    This is solely my opinion...I just wanted to let Volvo customers know I had the worst customer service experience of my life at Music Country Volvo in Nashville, TN. I have never been treated so poorly by anyone as the staff at Music Country Volvo. I won't be going back, and hope this will benefit anyone looking for a good Volvo dealer to service their vehicle.
  • mgopalkrmgopalkr Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 V70 XC and have 2 irritating problems. Anyone else experience these?

    1. I can feel vibrations in the steering wheel and even in the throttle at speeds above 50mph - The dealer has always claimed that my wheels are out of balance and I have had these rebalanced thrice in 36000 miles at $40 a pop. The wheel balancing seems to mitigate the problem somewhat, but not entirely - which leads me to believe that there are other problems. I also find it hard to believe that anyone would design a car that is so sensitive to wheel balance. The dealer could any problems with the suspension. Any thoughts?

    2. The wind noise is awful at speeds over 40mph. It seems to be roof related (may the rooof rack). Has anyone had this problem and if so has removing the roof rack solved it?
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    Some questions. I'm assuming, but are you using the Volvo rims? Some aftermarket rims won't match perfectly with the hub, and you *could* get a vibration. You really do get what you paid for with wheels. Maybe you could look at the front brake rotors, or possibly the toe settings on the front suspension. Your car should not be presenting these symptoms w/o a reason. Have you rotated the tires front/back and side-2-side? I'm betting there's a tire w/a flat spot, which would do exactly what you're describing. The sure fire way to check this is to rotate the tires front-2-back. If your vibration changes at all, it's a tire almost certainly. You should also check the tire pressures and make sure they're not too high, just in case.

    Wind noise: Most likely being generated by the roof rack cross members. A couple of solutions for this: a) remove the cross members if you don't need them; b) instal a Thule or Yakima fairing or mini splitters on the front cross member and the noise should basically be "gone with the wind." I use a Yakima fairing on the rack on my 850 (a Yakima rack) and removing the fairing generates alot of noise from the cross members.

    Best of luck!

  • fthngrgfthngrg Member Posts: 6
    My 1998 Cross Country has started to have a new problem with the generator warning light, but only intermittently. When I took it to Volvo dealer while under warranty, they told me the light I was seeing was the washer fluid light. Gee, they are so smart! However, the generator light, which actually looks like a battery, is still coming on intermittently. When it does, the heater fan will slow or stop and the headlights dim. I am very concerned that there is some sort of intermittent short or wire grounding out or the generator is failing. Have any of you had this type of problem and if so, what was the actual problem and what did it take to fix? You can send me info at [email protected]. Thanks
  • paltingpalting Member Posts: 26
    I have a 1999 S80 T6 with only 15K miles on it. However, I notice it has a tendency to shift roughly in hotter weather. Almost feels like a slipping clutch, with juddering before completing the shift. Dealer says he doesn't notice anything. Any body notice the same thing on their Volvo's?
  • scottc3scottc3 Member Posts: 137
    Not much going on here.. but I did get my radio out with no problem and the stuck CD removed easily. My original post was #6, on 10/6/2001..

  • moregolfmoregolf Member Posts: 2
    That oil is noted for seeping, etc. I used in a Subaru, and the dealer ended up resealing the engine because of it. I would suggest changing types of and going to a non synthetic..
  • moregolfmoregolf Member Posts: 2
    On the brakes, did they turn the rotors? (Hope not).
  • wannarinowannarino Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 740 GLE non-turbo. When I accelerate, the engine acts like it is starved for fuel, much like when a fuel filter is plugged. This doesn't happen all the time. The car always starts and idles great. You can get it up to 60 on the freeway, but you have to accelerate very slowly. I have replaced the rail fuel pump and filter, the intank pump and filter, fuel pressure regulator, plugs, wires, cap and rotor and have spark. The tank has not been drained, but I have added water remover to tank and hoping this helps. Any ideas?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,134

    Our topic for Wednesday, March 13: Stump the Technicians!
    Join us with your maintenance & repair questions this Wednesday from 5-7pm PT/8-10pm ET. Some of our contributors from the Maintenance & Repair board will be waiting to hear your problems, and making Herculean efforts to solve them.

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  • lisa62lisa62 Member Posts: 7
    Is anybody with a S60 2.4 (non-turbo) experiencing problems with their automatic transmissions (the "regular" base automatic, not Geartronic)? I've seen several S80 trans posts here and elsewhere. Is the S60's auto trans similar to or the same as the S80's? If so, are they all fixed by now ('02 model year, versus the posts, which are about '00 models from what I can see)?
  • dparesdpares Member Posts: 29
    I'm experiencing what sounds like a grinding noise from the rear of the car that seems to come on at about 35 to 40 mph and dissapears at about 65-70 (road noise might be masking the sound at that speed) It is much louder when its cold outside and when its warm you can barely hear it. In the snow/slush its real loud.

    It doesnt change in pitch as the car goes faster and stepping on the break doesnt make it go away. Its constant and always there.

    Anyone have any ideas or have experienced similar problems.

    Thanks for any help.
  • lisa62lisa62 Member Posts: 7
    Interesting... Have you tried posting at any of the other Volvo-specific sites? You may find some helpful tips from the very knowledgeable guys at and This is not an anti-Edmunds comment, mind you. I'm a huge Edmunds fan, have been for years. Edmunds is a fantastic site, and a good source for info. Why ELSE would we all be here conversing with one another?!?!

    On the flip side, when it comes to getting experienced opinions and specific Volvo "help", perhaps posting your question at this *as well as* one of those other sites might get you a few more answers. Then, naturally, you can come back here and "share" what you find with all of us if you learn something. Good luck finding your answers...

    A soon-to-be-owner of a Volvo S60...
  • studbutterstudbutter Member Posts: 7
    Pretty much the same report as swoodall's. Tom Wood was snooty, condescending and overpriced. They charged $148 for a service that consisted of an oil change and fluid inspections. When I asked the status of my brakes they told me that if it was important, they'd tell me. The sales staff is the same.
  • dcmooredcmoore Member Posts: 14

    My wife owns a 1996 960 sedan with about 105K miles. She recently had some extensive emissions work done on it by a shop that purports to work on nothing but Volvos. Less than a week later (and all of a sudden), the car began spewing gray exhaust in large quantities and running very roughly, i.e., like it was firing only on a couple of cylinders. She took it back to the same shop and now they're telling her that she has major fuel injection problems. I'm not very mechanically inclined at all, but this seems very coincidental to me. Does anyone know if working on the emissions system probably would have entailed messing with the fuel injection system? Does this situation strike anyone else as being suspicious? Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    well, i'm always suspicious of shops. But, i'd take it somewhere else and see what they say. maybe they can tell you if something was done to it to cause this.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • pham7pham7 Member Posts: 13
    When I started my 95 850T on one very cold moring, it was sluggished a bit before the engine turned on then the check engine light came on. I guess that was oxygen problem. Any way after that my car run fine but the check engine light still stays on until now. So any one knows how to reset that and not to bring it to the dealer. Thanks.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    well, sorry to say that I used to have a page marked that may have helped you, but that was a long time ago and, after much searcing, I can't find it again.

    My first question is how long ago was it you got the CEL? If it was a temporary trigger and has since gone away, it may reset itself after 2 weeks or so. Other than that, I would suggest you search to see if you can find any answers.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    This doesn't work on '96 and newer (OBD II) cars, but should help you w/your '95. This LINK is from Volvospeed.


  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    is that the info on volvospeed is for resetting the service light, not the CEL. Different lights altogether.

    BUT, good link nonetheless.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rex_ruthorrex_ruthor Member Posts: 140
    Id like to get a boost controller and a chip and maybe an intake and exhaust. Ive heard that these mods can raise output to 300 HP fairly easily.

    anyone have any information on this?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    well, I know the S70 T5 can be modded to get 300+ horses, but not really sure about the S60. Have yet to see an ECU upgrade for the S60 (but, then again, haven't really been on the lookout). I suggest visiting the brickboard and checking out their links page. Might find a manufacturer through there that has one. I just looked at IPD ( and see they have an exhaust for your car that nets a claimed 10 horses (and 12 ft-lbs torque). Don't see an ECU there, though. An ECU upgrade will give you the most bang for the buck, though (aside from a boost controller).

    Not sure how comfortable you feel with a manual boost adjuster. I'm still not convinced to trust it on my daily driver, although plenty of people use them without problems. It just makes me nervous. If I was to go that route, I'd probably opt for a much more expensive electronic boost controller.

    My suggestion is to first get a boost guage on your car so you can monitor the turbo pressure when doing these mods.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rex_ruthorrex_ruthor Member Posts: 140
    Yah, I have the V70 T5 with the 2.3. I dont have any idea what the stock boost (does anyone know how much boost it runs?) and fuel maps are like, i guess i really need to meet an experienced tuner. Id definitely get a gauge too, but MBC or EBC doesnt matter much to me. Since the car is mostly driven by my wife, I think a MBC hidden under the hood is the best bet.
  • javadocjavadoc Member Posts: 1,167
    gbrozen is right, your best bet is They're basically the best in the business for your car. I would stay away from manual boost controllers unless you are going all out, like with a huge intercooler, different turbo charger, upgraded internals, larger injectors... the list goes on. If you put too much boost in, you're going to break things, expensive things.

    If you really want to have the car be fast, just go with an ipd ecu and a good quality 3" exhaust. ipd's is really expensive for any of their cars, so a good shop can bend you one (mandrel bends only) for about half the price. The ipd chip and a good exhaust should have you pushing close to that 300hp mark... reliably too.

    Anything else you do will only wring a few ponies unless you spend some serious money.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    sorry. Assumed you had an S60.
    Hmmm... I don't even see an exhaust on ipd for your '01 T5 wagon. They just list an '01 wagon without mention of turbo.
    Well, like java said, you can go to a quality shop and have them make one up for you.
    Let us know how the modding goes for ya.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • msentoffmsentoff Member Posts: 1
    I have a V40 and I think it locks itself occasionally - I'm pretty sure that the doors are unlocked and when I look again, it's locked and the "alarm armed" light on the dashboard seems to be blinking faster than normal.

    But another problem is that occasionally, the alarm will go off when my husband or I open the door with a key instead of the remote control. There doesn't seem to be any pattern that we can figure out. For example, today I opened the door on the passenger side with my key and the alarm went off within a second or two after that. I'm beginning to think that it only happens after the car "locks itself", but I can't verify yet.

    So, does any know the secret formulas about when the alarm is supposed to go off? Thanks for any advice!
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    Can someone give me an idea how the 1993 850 turbo's run?? I'm looking at one with about 110,00 miles on it. Would the turbo be a weak link at that point or do they last much longer given good maintenance? Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    yes, given proper maintenance and proper warm-up and cool-down, a turbo will last just as long as any other component on the vehicle. Question is, can you be sure, at 110,000 miles, that it was properly cared for?

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • ledanrebledanreb Member Posts: 3
    I'm in the process of buying a 99 T5 with 43k miles for about 17k. However, the car has an electrical problem (can't start without a booster). The dealer claimed that they would get it fixed. Also the manual shifter has no play at all, I can't tell when the car is in neutral or not. I would like your advices here before I buy the car. Please let me know if anyone of you has had these problems, and what the fix was.....Thanks
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    Seems to me that is a real low price on a '99. Does this have the leather and moonroof? If so, I might be inclined to have the vehicle checked out by an independent source and definitely run a carfax on it (although carfax isn't foolproof by any means). Is it certified?

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

  • ledanrebledanreb Member Posts: 3
    The car is fully loaded. According to the dealer (Subaru) it was traded-in, and initially offered for sale for 22.5k. However, it's been seating in the lot ever since, and most buyers would not buy it because of its manual transmission...The CARFAX reports did not come up with any "hidden problem", but they've also suggested that I take the car to a professional mechanic for inspection. I intend to do that next week. Anyhow I have 30 days to return the car if any significant trouble is discovered. Also it's still under the manufacturer's warranty, and has been certified by the dealer.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,592
    well, hope it all works out for ya. That's a great deal. Sure, the shifter and miles hurt this car a bit but being a T5 makes up for that easily.

    The Subaru dealer "certified" it? Does that come with an extended warranty? I would think not. In which case, its not really certified. A Volvo dealer puts a 7 yr/74K mile warranty on their certified cars. But, regardless, you're still getting a really good deal.

    Fairly steady: '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c, '01 Xterra, '20 S90 T6, '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel, '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP / Rotating stock, but currently: '96 Daihatsu HiJet, '97 Alto Works, '11 Mini Cooper S

This discussion has been closed.