Volvo Maintenance and Repair

jmmiller1

I'm considering the purchase of a new V70. From what I've heard, while the new V70's have fewer problems than the previous generation, dealer support and an excellent service department are key to not having a Volvo nightmare. Does anyone have any advice about Volvo dealer support and service in the Chicago area, especially Shepherd Volvo in Oak Park (where I live) and Volvo of Lisle? Thanks!

gthomaspa

I have a 2000, S-70 GLT,SE that, for the last week, has had a starting problem. The car will crank and crank, perhaps for 7-8 times and then, after sitting for several minutes, will start. This is happening with more frequency and I'm afraid that the dealer will have a problem trying to figure out what the problem may be. Once the automobile starts, it runs fine. Several months ago, it flat out would not start until I had it started by AAA and drove it to the dealership. The service advisor tried to say that with all the computerization, that a lot of "juice" is used thus resulting in premature battery failure. I didn't believe it for one minute and have to believe that I may have an intermittent electrical problem. I don't believe it is the battery this time. The car is only two years old with less than 18,000 miles and I am beginning to lose confidence in the Volvo automobile.
Has anyone else experienced such a problem and if so, how was it corrected?

cheerful

My S40 have 2 minor problems (door lock and seat belt buckle). Who should I contact to get it repair? The dealer?

Thanks!

qbrozen

execuguy

Anyone have a cleu about the S-80 shift probs I've experienced and read posts about.

The car jut won't shift out of park or the car won't shift into park (or reverse) so you can't take the key out or lock the doors (Volvo's idiot -proof lock system.)

tmart

Are you applying your brakes before shifting from park? If not, think it's time for a visit to the service department. On my C70, if the brakes aren't applied, you can't get it out of park. It's a safety thing. Tmart

vguard

I could not agree more !!!! Our experience with Music Country Volvo in Nashville was so bad 7 years ago (some things never change), that we went to Louisville to purchase our Volvo. For years I had our Volvo serviced in Louisville, but now have started taking it to the Franklin dealership(was not open when I purchased our Volvo in 95), and so far am pleased with their service.

vg

lancearmstrong

I have a '96 850R and am a little frustrated with the Z-rated tire issue ($500 for rubber every year). I love the handling, but the 205/45/17 tire options are fairly limited (I'm running Kuhmo tires). I am considering going to an aftermarket 16" rim to open up my tire options and perhaps make the ride a little more plush.

My OEM 17" rims that came with the 850R look good, with a few minor scratches here and there. The 5th rim, used for the spare, is slightly bent. If I could sell the OEM 17" rims and go to a 16", I could go with longer-wearing tires (V- or H-rated) and save $ over the long run.
Any suggestions on (1) good tires for the 17" rims and (2) selling the 17" on the internet and buying 16" rims and tires?

qbrozen

looks to be a tough one. There are a couple of W-rated tires on tirerack.com. These Yokohamas have pretty good feedback from the users.

You go through a set a year?? I drive pretty hard and my tires always last me 2 to 3 years. what different brands have you tried?

Well, anyway, if you want to go with 16s, I'd keep an eye on Ebay. I've seen them go up for auction there (probably people going to 17s). You also might want to take a look at brickboard. They might have classifieds there, I forget. But maybe you could hook up with someone who would want to swap with you.

lancearmstrong

I guess I'm figuring that I might get about 15,000 mi on the current Z-rated tires. They have to be rotated frequently or they tend to feather (alignment seems good). I had some Yokahamas last time around and they were awfully noisy, but a different model than you suggested --I had the A-520's. The Pradas you suggested are a bit more expensive than the Kuhmo's, but I might get better mileage out of a W-rated tire, and they seem to get good reviews. Thanks for the suggestion.

volvoblows

I have a '94 850 wagon. Can anyone tell me how to turn off the "Check Engine" and "Service" indicator lights on the dash. (The local Volvo dealer has already absconded with my children's college tuition.) Please help.

tmart

The lights are there for a reason. The check engine light means something is wrong somewhere and should be fixed/repaired. It could be something as simple as the gas cap not properly installed (did it come on after a fillup?) or something more serious. I'd check the gas cap first. If that's not it, you really need to visit the dealer or your mechanic. The service light can be a visual pain, but it should go out after several minutes. Is it actually time for service? If not, the computer thinks it is. I was told it's a function of start ups and miles. Mine comes on usually within 2k miles of the recommended time. I don't know how to reset an 850. Volvo has several ways depending on the year, model, etc. With my 99 C70, you hold the odometer button down for several seconds with one hand while turning the key with the other hand. I think some have a reset button somewhere under the dash. You could try a "Google search" or call the dealer. Tmart

javadoc

You can also try http://www.volvospeed.com and click on their maintence section (bay 13). There's a step by step instruction on resetting the Service light.

I agree w/Tmart. If your CEL is lit, there's some sort of problem. You can usually take your car to a decent independent mechanic to check out the codes and they will tell you what, if anything is wrong w/the car. But, check the gas cap first. Those buggers will trip a CEL in an instant.

qbrozen

yes, as stated, you can reset the service light.

As far as the CEL, if it was tripped by the gas cap (as has happened to me more than once), it will go away by itself after about a week. I learned this when I took my S70 in the first time it happened. The second time, I drove it with the light on for a week and it went away by itself. Actually, it kinda worries me that I have to drive for a week with the CEL to make it go out, but I figure if its running right all that time, then its fine.

jhaz

I bought the S60 with the upgraded pro-logic stereo and am having trouble with FM reception. It cuts in and out much more than my standard Honda or Subaru stereo does on the same channels. Seeing that this system was an expensive option, I'm a bit frustrated. Dealer service has been of no help. Anyone with the same experience or suggestions?

marinadave

Han anyone tried to replace this themselves and what is the procedure? Thanks

marinadave

I received my answer on the v70xc board message number #357

thanks, art

hadleyfarm

Is there a Volvo Consumer Complaint Ombudsman?

The Mechanical Problem -
It starts up first thing in the morning, BUT after a doing some errands (short distance driving) will not start up again (turn key and NO ENGINE SOUND, interior electrics work.

This happened for the first time in October 2002 (still under warranty). I took it to a Volvo dealer #1 (not where it was purchased) and they replaced the battery cable although the problem was never recorded on the car's ECM memory chip.
Approximately 3 weeks later (now out of warranty) it happened again, after apprx. 1 1/2 hours, I was able to start it. I took it back to dealer #1 and, although they could not ascertain why it happened, they replaced the starter replay switch.

A couple of weeks later, it happened again. The Volvo dealer #1 (recognizing that the car was "out of warranty" now "did not have the time to see the car for at least three weeks". Took it to a second Volvo dealer #2 who checked it out with (vadis), checked starter system - could not explain what the problem was and why it would reoccur. Suggested that I use spare keys to run car. Recommended that "the next time" I not try and restart BUT have the car towed to dealer so that they could plug into ECM to diagnose - if I retart it, any trouble codes would be erased.
 
Well, yesterday morning (1/13/03) it started first thing and I drove the kids to school (1/2 mile). Came out after twenty minutes and IT HAPPED AGAIN!!! it would not start, no engine sounds what so ever, I disengaged and reengaged the automatic shift, I used both sets of keys, I locked and unlocked the doors with the remote, I tried and tried and NOTHING.

I had the car towed 45 miles to the Volvo dealer #2 as they had recommneded. The mechnaic got into the car turn the key and it started - I thought he was going to plug into the computer before trying to start it - No, he said, any registered trouble codes would not be erased by starting it. No trouble codes were identified. Once again, the problem could not be identified and now Volvo dealer #2 decided to once again, replace the starter relay switch, with a used one he got off another car (totaled) on the lot.

The Warranty Problem -
He said he was doing this as a "courtesy" to me that he did not wish to spend any more time or expensive parts (new starter) on this problem "... after all you did not buy the car from us and it is out of warranty".

I drove home worried that this most likely will happen again, and with a 4 month old baby I could not risk a dead car in the cold of frigid winter weather.

This is not why we purchased a Volvo. We should be able to have this car serviced by any Volvo dealer like any other Volvo car under warranty and not to be treated as if we beggars needing a stable to sleep in.

Can anyone PLEASE give me any insight into how best to proceed with Volvo - do I need to call an attorney?

Thanks!!!

javadoc

What kind of Volvo is it? <Edit> I just read your profile, and it says 2000 V70.

Electrical problems are the worst kind to try and figure out, although I can understand how frustrating it it for you.

The issue w/the warranty may not be what you want to hear, but if the car's out of warranty, any car, I don't see a dealer (be it Honda, Audi, M-B, Lexus... etc) honoring a repair.

However, repair work generally has a 'warranty' implied, such as, "12mths from time of repair," is what my inde-mechanic warrants on his repairs. So, possibly this is a repair warranty issue and not a vehicle-new-car warranty issue. At least it's a line of attack for you, possibly.

Or, you could check with the consumer advocate agency in your area, and they may be able to enlighten you on local laws governing automobile repairs... it may work in your favor.

tmart

Jhaz, believe your FM problem has to do with Volvo's Diversity Antenna trying to find the best signal. In case you didn't know, you have two antennas. My C70's SC-901 does the same as yours depending on where I am relative to the station's transmitter. It's only noticeable in Pro-Logic mode. Since your Honda and Subaru have only one antenna so there's "no problem".

qbrozen

from what i understand, the problem started when the car was under warranty. This is in the records. It was not fixed properly, therefore it should still be covered. I would call volvo on this because it is a "factory" warranty. But call the first dealer first and suggest this to them (about it being a problem that started under warranty and you would expect this particular problem to be covered until it is fixed).

jfleming2

Hi Karen,
    My wife recently purchased a 2002 Volvo from Ken Garff here in SLC. A few months ago she was rear ended in town & the car sustained approx. 6,000 in damages. The car had 3,000 miles onit. Garff assured us that they could get the car looking "just like new". During the repair period of approx. 1 month my wife expressed an interest in trading the car in for a 2003. We were both told ~ as soon as the prices come in for the 2003 we'll give you a quote that will be 500.00 over invoice.Well, the weeks rolled by and no quote although the 2003 prices were posted all over the internet. When we asked Garff what the problem was we were told "we'll
call you back with the price & the trade in within 1/2 hour!"...Finally after another 2 weeks the sales manage calls me & says "we have no interest in your car" "we don't want it!" ...I asked him to put that statement in writting ~ he agreed but I never received it. The Garff General Manager, who also had been confirming with my wife that he would "take care of the trade in ~ no problem" called a few days later & requested that I come in and we could work out a solution. I agreed ~ after a short time in the meeting the GM said he'd give me 15,000 on a trade in for the car but he really didnh't want it! I paid almost 40,000 cash for the car! I have repoted this incident to Volvo & what do you think I was told by Volvo North America? "That's how much cars depreciate when driven out of the showroom". I'm 63 years old & have purchased a new car every 2~3 years & this is the first time I've this lame excuse. This is the 1st time that I've been trated like apiece of ragweed by a dealer & a manufacture of an automobile ~ or any other product that I've purchased. Ken Garff's logo is "we back you up" ~ you can interpret that statement several ways no of which appy to satisfying a customer.. I think everyone who is considering purchasing a Volvo should be aware of what the possibilty of have this happen to them is they purchase anything from the Ken Garff organization here in Salt Lake City.
  Thanks for your time & the enrollment into your national discussion boards for Volvo owners.
   If I can provide you or any other members with any additional information about this matter please feel free to contact me.
Repectfully submitted,
Jeff Fleming
buzltyr837@aol.com

qbrozen

who is Karen?

Karen_S

..that would be me. :-)

qbrozen

fair enough.... but why is that letter addressed to you? did I miss something?

clrconsulting

I am considering purchasing a 2001 Volvo Cross Country wagon with 57,000 miles on it for around $23500. While I feel it's a good price, can anyone share their thoughts on a relatively new Cross Country with high mileage? The car will be driven by my wife about 8-10,000 miles per year. Other than the miles, inside and out, the car is immaculate. Also, I'm trying to determine the frequency at which the timing belt needs to be repalced. Thanks.

Karen_S

jfleming2 originally sent his dilemma to me in an email. I directed him here and to a discussion in Smart Shopper. Apparently, he copy/pasted his email directly into the discussion.

cabaiste

I'm wondering if anyone can recommend a good Independent Volvo service shop I can bring my 1998 V70 T5 to in the lower Hudson Valley / Northern NJ area ?
I've run out of patience with my Rockland County dealership's shoddy work and sky high pricing.
Thanks in advance.

qbrozen

not sure exactly how far it is for you (sounds like it could be a trek), but I like Princeton Volvo. I have shops closer to me, as well, but won't go anywhere else. The forty-minute drive is worth it to me.

lizzy53

Good evening-I am on a slow burn after a trip to my Indy Volvo dealer today to look at a 2003 V70. Took my 98 V70 AWD to be appraised for a trade-in-I hadn't been there more than 5 minutes and was asked if I had had to replace the viscous coupling (?) part of the AWD yet-a $1700 repair-$3000 if you drive the car at all after it fails as it takes the transmission with it! Does anyone know about this supposedly common problem in the 98's? if it is so common why hasn't there been a recall for it? Needless to say I now feel like I am driving a ticking timebomb and this little gem of info preceeding a trade-in value for my car that was $1000 less than the local Mercedes dealer will give me for my car on a trade for a C320 wagon is leaving a very bad Volvo taste in my mouth (although I loved the way the V70 2.4T drove!). Thanks for any help/direction anyone can give me.

qbrozen

who asked you this question? customer or volvo rep? If customer, I wouldn't take it too seriously without more confirmation. If volvo rep, did you ask them why its not a recall if its so common? In any case, for more info., maybe search brickboard.com for some clues on it.

What is the trade-in value of the vehicle? Have you run it by Bill and Terry on the Real-World Trade-in Values board? Could be this Volvo dealer is low-balling you or it could be the Mercedes dealer is just trying harder to earn your business (or to unload a vehicle in this soft market).

lizzy53

Thanks for your response-it was the salesperson who asked me the question-I have called another Volvo dealer's service dept and they told me that they had rarely seen this problem!!??!!-has to make one suspicious. How do you get to this Real-World Trade-In Values board?

qbrozen

not sure if this link will work. If not, you can find it under the Smart Shopper section of Townhall and then under the Pricing Data subheading. Read some of the previous posts to get an idea of all the info you need to provide to get an accurate value.

Now, as far as that salesperson's comment, I would be a bit suspicious that it was some sort of oddball sales ploy. But I'm a suspicious person.

good luck.

tollhaus

I own a 2001 S80 2.9 (bought it in January) and am approaching the 30,000 mile service. I live in Germany and have to deal with maintenance on the economy here. I asked the German dealer that is affiliated with the American dealer that I bought it from and they gave me an estimate of about $500 for the service. That is with me bringing my own oil, too. What goes on during this service and how much is one in the U.S? I'm just curious if these guys are ripping me off or if this is a serious servicing? Thanks.

qbrozen

You can go on volvocars.com and sign up in the owner's circle to view the maintenance schedule for your car.

In any case, I went ahead and checked it out. Your 30K service involves changing the oil and filter (of course), the air cleaner, spark plugs, and cabin filter. Other than that, they just inspect everything. It does suggest that you get your brake fluid changed every 30K, so maybe they are including that? $500 is a helluva lot. But that is why I don't go to the dealer for my services. good luck.

tmart

Was told it would be $600 by the dealer; $400 at an independent shop specializing in Volvos. Both seem high to me.

qbrozen

I just changed my plugs, air filter, and oil & filter this morning with parts obtained from Napa. Was a very easy job, so it only cost me about an hour of my time and less than $75. Got double platinum champion plugs at $6 each, I always get Valvoline 5w-30, and they had a Napa brand air filter on hand.

Forgot to ask for a cabin filter, but I'm sure they wouldn't have had one. In any case, I still can't imagine why this service should cost $400-$600. Can either of you ask just what the heck they are doing for that money? What all is included? Maybe they are adding in things that aren't suggested by the maintenance section of our owner's manual. I've heard this happens alot (and not just with volvos).

novacat

Am I asking for too much? My '99 XC 70, which has been serviced religiously at 2 Volvo dealerships in GA and SC, has failed with less than 78,000 miles on it. How might I petition Volvo North America to look at this issue to see if they wish to help? With what I have spent servicing this car at the dealerships, I'd like to believe that this might warrant some consideration? Am I kidding myself?

qbrozen

dunno. All you can do is give it a shot.
let us know what happens. That's a bit scary since my volvo has 67K miles and the warranty is running out at 74K.

Did you definitely already confirm its the transmission? What exactly are we talking about here? A complete rebuild?

shark715

Anyone know how to reset the Service Light on an '02 C70? According to the IPD catalog, 1993-95 and 1999-2003 models can be reset manually. The IPD catalog says that detailed instructions are on their website with the tool that resets 96-98 models, but I looked at their website and there's no mention of the instructions. Thanks in advance for your help.

tmart

cheerful

The left front tire of My 2001 S40 suddenly shows a bubble. It is a Goodyear Eagle LS 195/60R15. I took it to Sears and the guy said it is very likely to be an impact bubble, which is NOT covered under Goodyear warranty. Can anyone tell me if that is true?

One tire is $150 + $20 for balancing at Sears. And Sears does not have it in stock. Does anyone know a good place to get it for a reasonable price?

Thanks!

qbrozen

can't really prove or disprove the impact bubble. How old are the tires? If they are the originals from '01, then I'd say odds of a manufacturers defect are slim.

As I understand it, bubbles on the sidewalls usually happen when a steel belt (hence, steel-belted radials) breaks. It would break due to impact. Its a fairly common occurence.

Did you take a look to see if tirerack has one of those in stock? If you dont' want to wait for that, try a Goodyear shop. I've got 2 within 5 minutes of my house, so I assume they are everywhere.

rapidrick

... the steel belts are imbedded underneath the tread and the sidewalls are normally nylon/polyester cord. That gives the sidewalls the flex (and strength) they need during cornering.

I might be mistaken, though...

qbrozen

could be these days, I'm not sure. I do know that I've changed a couple of tires on customer cars 10 years ago where steel wires were sticking out of the sidewalls (I've got many scars to prove it).

cheerful

Thanks everyone for help.

Goodyear said the bubble is on the side wall so it is NOT covered under warranty. I went to tirerack.com and is waiting for the shipment to arrive.

I am assuming I just need to get it mounted and balanced. Do I need alignment after tire change?

qbrozen

no alignment is necessary unless you feel it pulling to one side or something (or if tires are not wearing evenly).

cheerful

Thanks for the advice. The current mileage is 7K, no visible wearing on existing tires. Only the front left tire will be replaced. Guess I dont need aligment.

dondilio

Im planning to restore a 740 gle. It hasnt been used in 6 years. what kind of things should i do to tune up and restore the engine??? Thanks for any help.

sf_sienna

Hi--

Has anyone ever heard of this problem before-- when I try to fill the gas tank the pump continuously clicks off. The only way I can fill the tank is extremely slowly, around 1 gallon/minute or less. Seems like a blockage in the filler pipe or maybe a venting issue. I've tried many different pumps. Any ideas? Thanks, Steve