blkmgkblkmgk Member Posts: 54
edited March 2014 in Lexus
I recently had a 4 wheel alignemt on my car (ls400)it was pulling to the right.
That was fine , my car rode straight.
A few weeks later my car seems to be drifting to the right, what is it now? (I have new tires) Does this mean that my suspension is worn out and is the probable cause>? what else could it be?


  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    and what type of driving do you do?
  • blkmgkblkmgk Member Posts: 54
    I only do highway driving.(average of 110 miles a day) Nothing else. Mileage on my car is 93k.
    What is your analysis?
  • vidtechvidtech Member Posts: 212
    just because the tires are new means nothing.swap the two front tires and see if the car drifts the other way.if it does,case closed.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sure, at 93K you could definitely have worn suspension parts....but new tires could affect the tracking of the vehicle, if the car were aligned with old tires that were worn irregularly.
  • blkmgkblkmgk Member Posts: 54
    The car was aligned after i purchased the new tires. Maybe I will just swap the tires in cris cross fashion-They were already rotated.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Most factory specs are very broad to avoid warranty claims. Any side to side differences on the same parameter will cause a pulling. Things like camber and caster need to be within 0.3 degrees [yet the factory range may be 1.0 degrees]
    Always ask for a before after print out and study the wheel to wheel variances!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Getting a car to track perfectly isn't very easy. Road crowns vary and different types of tires track differently. I usually settle for a reasonable good track but I don't demand perfection with it.
  • q45manq45man Member Posts: 416
    Are a result of governments trying to protect idiots from their own purchasing of inexpensive tires which are too hard to properly stop in the wet.
    So the few of us who care to keep alignments perfect and drive on real tires must suffer.
    When you have a precision set up the car will pull left on a left cambered road [lane] and pull right when you are in the slow lane [right cambered].
    Roads are the result of low bidding and no quality control since once it's down it's down, they may pay a penalty but that doesn't help the road.
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    the camber in the roads was to help drain of water so we didn't have to enjoy the thrills of hydroplaning anymore...........guess you can learn something new everyday.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    You could very easily have worn suspension parts. If the struts have gone 93K they could easily be due for a replacement. Make sure they don't leak. Check Strut mounts at the same time. A worn ball joint caused a similar drifting problem on one of my vehicles. Once repaired, no drifting to one side or the other.
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    Prior to May of 1981, we were told to "keep the tire on the same side to protect the belts". Now the tire companies recommend the "modified X" On rear drive cars the rear tires are moved straight forward, and the fronts crossed to the rear. On front drive the fronts go straight back and rears are crossed to the front.

    In 1981 the method of building steel belted tires changed and almost all tires were being built the new way by May 1. Previously the steel in the belts was composed of twisted cables of multiple wires. The new method uses crimped individual wires. The crimping makes the wires look like they were unwound from a cable. The advantages include total rubber contact with all surfaces of each wire for better bond, and a little 'give' to each wire that prevents it form being easily pulled loose from the rubber. This is the reason given for the change from recommending tires be kept on the same side of the car. It also eliminated the harsh ride for which radials were known.

    Another point that I saw in tire trade magazines was that trucks had begun using radials, and were having tires recapped after the tread wore off. Thinking direction of rotation important and installers being unable to determine the original direction of rotation, recappers expected a high percentage of failure. The high percentage did not occur. Tire engineers began to suspect that direction of rotation was not as important as first thought.

    A point seldom read anywhere, is that on a rear wheel drive car the forces against the belt are different front to rear because, the wheel drives the tread on the rear tire, and on the front especially when braking the tread drives the wheel. To keep the major forces in the same dirrection on each tire, we should have been "X ing" the tires all along. If force direction mattered, front wheels of front drive cars would have had a higher failure rate than any other application.

    I have probably bored everyone to sleep with this long post, but the point is: With modern radial tires if they are not designated to be a directional tire, reversing them will not harm them.

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Thanks for the post. Answered a couple of questions for me.
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    nice to see a descriptive post from someone who really knows what he's talking about. i know i learned something today........
  • raallyraally Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1989 Cadillac sedan deville fwd, replace rear air studs. The indicator load leveler light comes on but the compressor doesn't. I jumped the compressor to see if it works and it does. Any idea on the problem?
  • seeligseelig Member Posts: 590
    or sensor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Master, would you please take your logo out of your posts?

    thank you,

    Mr. Shiftright
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    There is a switch on the right rear lower control arm that turns the compressor on There is a proceedue to adjust it using a plastic fixture you install then break off that you can get from the parts man at a Caddy, Buick, Pontiac or Olds dealer as they all use it.

    You can test the switch if you have a pit, drive on rack, or other way to get under the car with the weight on the wheels and the car level. Pop the link off the control arm,(look at it, it unlatches then can be pulled off the ball) and manually move the switch, * wait * it doesn't actuate immediately, this will tell you if the switch works. Sometimes checking will fix it. If the back is real low it may be passed the point where it turns on, and moving the switch to turn on the compressor raises the car to where it works when you reconnect it.

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