Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Chevrolet Impala Owners
Autoride......
22187160) for less than what the dealer wants for them???
A good used set wouldn't be out of the question either....... probably best
for a Yukon with 70,000 miles on the clock.....
Jeff B In Maine
Yukon XL Topic
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Technical Questions
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Anything I need to pay attention to when I get it replaced?
Anyone can recommend some place to look for a good auto glass shop?
thanks!
As for what to check---make sure they put in a new windshield seal and check the job for sloppy workmanship. If you see lots of goop somewhere or a big gap in the seal---have them make it right.
I have a 2-door manual transmission 1997 Dodge Neon with 66,000 miles. This is my work car. And up till now it has been great transportation. It gets good gas mileage, is quite quick, and is reliable. Yes, it had a leaky trunk, which was easily fixed by taking the lights out and reinstalling with silicone sealer. And yes, it has wind noise around the windows, which is improved by lowering the window an inch and then cranking it closed.
And at 66,000 miles it was leaking 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles. So I brought it into a five-star dealer. It was diagnosed with a head gasket failure. They also want to replace the water pump. I told them to replace the timing belt and alternator belt while they are at it. I also asked if there is any assistance available due to the known design flaw in the head gasket. The dealer said no, that it was out of warranty, and that there was never a recall. So I said okay to about a $1000 repair.
So, I called the Chrysler Customer Assistance (800-992-1997) to see if they could provide assistance. I told them how nice the dealer was. To make a long story short, they told me I had to pay the first $500 and they would pay the rest. I'm very happy with their offer. The car is 9 years old! It is long out of warranty. I think this is outstanding customer assistance on the part of Daimler Chrysler. Hat's off to Chrysler!
Here's the link for you:
Neon Discussion
thank you!
Host
Today I tried starting the car and it didn’t want to turn over it had a hesitation with some noise and finally started. I have a 2003 Saturn Vue. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Cut and paste your post into this discussion:
Technical Questions
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My rear defroster takes a VERY long time to clear the window. I discovered that one of the 2 wired metal contacts is no longer touching the glass. (There's one on the left and one on the right of the window) If I solder it would the defroster work properly again? and most importantly, Is there anything I could damage by soldering it? If I can't solder, do you have any other suggestions?
The car is a '96 Sebring convertible by the way
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Technical Questions
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Can you help: I disconnected the battery (didn't intend to use the car for a while) and then discovered I had accidently locked the doors. How can I open the hood now to connect the battery?
good luck
I have the keys, which kind of useless (or I just don't know how they can be of any use) because there is no battery.... Are there any tricks to open the hood?
Many thanks
THANKS
Im in need of a stereo wiring diagram for a toyota landcruiser HZJ75, just need to know the colours of which wire goes where as my dad has a landcruiser and someone has put a pioneer cd player in it but not connected it the plug is still in the cruiser. hopefully someone as a manual with this info that they could email me cheers lenie. ps fingers crossed :confuse:
Monte Carlo
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I had the oil changed at the dealership last October and within a week the light came on. Circumstances did not allow me to get the car back to them and soon the light went out, then went on. In February I brought it to my mechanic (not the dealer) to have the oil changed and the service engine soon problem looked at. He found a misfire in the history on the computer. Light out. Month later, light on. Last week got the ignition coil assembly changed and some spark plugs. Four days later, light on again.
I can see myself paying month after month to have this light stay off. Honestly, I'm tempted to just let it shine - because I don't feel any misfires, or anything.
That's my story. Did you get help with your VUE?
Saturn VUE
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Technical Questions
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Transmission Traumas
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Where would I ask about how unusual this is, and other questions about *authorized* repair work, should the issue ever come up?
Dealer Dis-Service
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Let's Talk About Brakes!
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Technical Questions Topic
thanks,
Host
About 9 or 10 months ago someone keyed my brand new 2005 silver 4 door honda civic. It was on the driver side of the car, and the scratch was from front to back crossing all panels.
Thinking that this would be a cheap repair, because it was just a scratch I took it to the dealership, and was shocked after there estimate of $1800. (I'm in canada by the way, so thats canadian dollars). They told me that it was a deep scratch, could not be touched up and that all panels needed to be sanded down and re painted.
Because I was expecting a $50 repair that turned out to be $1800 I was very turned off and said to myself it's not worth it.
But, I decided to look around, I went to body shop A, and got the same thing - deep scratch, sand and repaint the entire driver side of the car. ($1800 quote from these guys)
Turned off again, I decided to live with the scratch, as the technician at body shop A also suggested. he said that the scratch didn't affect the performance in anyway and it doesn't make sense to pay so much to repair it.
Fast forward to present. I went to another shop, Body Shop B. Got the same quote, roughly $2000. But the technician at Body Shop B scared me, telling me that the scratched has exposed the metal and it would begin to rust, which it has.
So I decided that if I'm paying for insurance, why not utilize it and deal with the increase in premium after making a claim. After talking to insurance they told me that as it's the first claim, it wouldn't affect my premium.
Question 1:
Seeing as how this is 9 or 10 months after the scratch occurred, will insurance give me a hard time and ask why I waited so long to make a claim?
There was another shop, Body Shop C, I went there to get one more estimate, and to my astonishment, he would repair the scratch and repaint the side of the car for $400 flat.
It turns out that Shop C was right next to Shop A so I returned to shop a, some 9 months later, for another quote and unlike last time when they quoted $1800 there quote was now $850.
My Predicament
I'm confused as hell and don't know what to do!
The shop quoting me $400 said that it is less than the dealership because the dealer ship charges $100 per hour labour, but that the quality of work is the same. He looked at my paint code, said he would get the exact paint. He said he would sand down the scratches, lightly sand the area's around it and then repaint and coat it. He said i could drop it off in the morning and pick it up in the evening, and would give me 1 year written warranty against it chipping and that sort of thing.
He said I could go through insurance and that he would get more money but my premium would go up. When I told him that they told me it would not go up he said that they said that same thing to a "guy" he knew and then when it was time to renew it went up and was on his record. Do you know if that sort of thing is common or does it sound like a lie to you?
I'm so confused because I don't know where to go and think that this much variance $400 - $850 - $1800 - $2000 is very suspicious.
Also body shop C ($400) said it could be done in a day, and bodyshop A ($850) said it would be at least two days.
Does this difference in time and price give me a clue as to the difference in quality and work these shops are planning to put into my repair or is body shop A over charging me?
Perhaps you can help, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Clyde
PS. Do you know what is a ball park figure to repaint the side of a 05 4 door civic?
The guy that quoted me $400 said that my paint was of medium quality, which he said after looking at my paint code. my paintcode on my car began with the letter "n"
He said if it begain with "a" it's low quality paint, and if it began with "r" it's the best quality paint, and that mine was "n" in the middle.
Thanks again