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Ford Excursion Owners: Meet the Members



  • kevins3kevins3 Posts: 10
    My Excursion is The Dark green limited 7.3L diesel runs beautiful. other than having the hubs replaced. I traded the factory tires before they were recalled lost out on that one. But still Happy! we went round trip west from Ohio to San Fransico to Vegas Kansas city then back home! Not one bit of trouble! Love this vehicle! Thanks for reading this Kevin
  • My wife and I are planning to buy a 2000 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10 (4.3 axle ratio) to pull our 6800lbs trailer (dry weight). We currently have a Ford Expedition 5.4L V8 XLT and is clearly not powerful enough to pull it. My concern is in doing further research I found that the 2000 Ford Excursions can only pull up to 10,000lbs and it's not till 2004 (I think) that they upgraded this to 11,000lbs. With other things loaded on the trailer on a trip I'm guessing that it's probably more like 7500lbs to 7800lbs. I'm just wondering if there are some out there who owns a 2000 and is pulling a trailer as heavy as mine and what your experience has been. I didn't see a section for towing on Excursions so let me know if I need to post this somewhere else. Thanks in advance. --- Al
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may also want to check out Towing tips for SUVs. And congrats, in advance! :)

    tidester, host
  • rdctrdct Posts: 3
    Good choice for towing vehicle. We have owned the same vehicle for 4 yrs now. Traded in a Suburban for it. The Suburban is a 'friendlier' driving vehicle, but you need the 454ci engine and the 2500 3/4 ton series to do the same job as a basic Excursion. Ours wasn't.

    I had hoped our Ex would show a large increase in towing fuel economy compared to the 6 - 7 mpg our Sub was getting, because our Sub struggled with a 350ci, but the Ex didn't show as much of a difference as I had hoped. Hard to compare apples to apples though, as we bought a larger camper at the same time, and I think with the larger Ex engine, we (I) tend to drive faster.

    Our camper is around 8000lbs loaded, give or take 500lbs depending on water and stuff. 9600lbs gross, so we have the potential to be maxed out on long trips. 35' long including the tongue, 11' high including the A/C.

    Our Ex only has the 3.73 gears. At 55 - 60mph, we get 8 - 9mpg. At 70 - 75mph, we get 6 - 7mpg. Not an incredible difference. This is according to the o/h computer. I would be interested to see what you get with the different gears.

    Most of our traveling has been through mountains and long grades. We're planning a trip out to Yellowstone from the east coast this summer, so I'm looking forward to a slight increase in mpg's - at least on the way home with the wind.

    You will have no problems towing your camper with this truck. Your camper is on the small side for the amount this truck can pull. Don't forget to have the weight distributing hitch setup properly for this vehicle.

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  • hockey8721hockey8721 Posts: 1
    We are considering a 2000 EX 8cyl diesel and was wondering from any of the owners what your take on them?

    Also it has around 69,000 on it. Any concerns with the diesel after it gets the higher miles?

  • itruckitruck Posts: 2
    hi, just purchased an 01 excursion limited 4x4 with 7.3PSD. i traded in my 2002 super dutyf-250crew 4x4 with was the worst MPG vehicle ive owned getting at the most 11mpg. the fuel mileage with the excursion exceeds what i thought i would get. im getting close to 21mpg hiway and 16.6 city driving! probably the best truck ive owned yet.
  • This is my first posting but I have been reading postings on this site for weeks. It seems a lot of folks have installed a Hellwig sway bar. I am wondering if this is due to the stock bar not being good enough or because some Excursions did not come with a rear sway bar? My 2003 has a stock sway bar and it seems to be beefy enough but I am experiencing sway or "wander" at highway speeds while towing my Cougar 304. I have a Reese Dual Cam WDH and am considering some modifications to control the sway. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • Bilstein shocks have solved the sway problem I was having, but we pull a 10-12K lbs horse trailer and need a little enhancement of the power, especially off the line. Am considering Airaid Intake System, Superchips Max Micro tuner and a MBRP performance exhaust system. Anybody running similar equipment who can discuss advisability with me would be appreciated.
  • We purchased our 2005 Excursion w/6.0L Power Stroke Diesel new in 2005. We just love it! It has more than enough power and room for us (4) and our stuff, as well as 3 dogs! We've only had a couple problems with sensors: one "coking-up with carbon" and one that went bad completely. Other than that, no problems at all. We've added a 4" turbo-back exhaust w/a 5" chrome tip - it still has what I believe is the catalytic converter on it, but no muffler. It runs quiet until you stomp on it. Bye-bye everyone! We've also added a HyperTech tuner, which allows us to tow up to the maximum for this vehicle on any setting - even Stage 3 (hi-perf). My husband likes the way it tows our 19.5' boat/trailer better than our '02 F350 4x4 PU with the 7.3 PSD. Our next change for both trucks is new intake systems! These are definitely BUILT FORD TOUGH! As far as MPG: we average 15-17 city and 18-21 hwy. How could one NOT love a truck that can pull anything all day long and still get real decent MPG?!?
  • My wife and I took our first road trip with our 2001 Excursion V10 pulling a 32ft Wildcat TT (about 8500lbs) loaded last week. All was well for the first 125 miles then we began losing power up hills. Earlier, it would jump to 4500rpm gain speed then line back out after hill was climbed. Later it would change gears but rpms would stay about 2800. Had ford dealer in that area check trans and found nothing wrong, changed oil, filter and fuel filter. After cooling off that night we started back home. We just made it home when it did the same thing. The ford dealer said that he thought the catalytic converter might be bad. Any thoughts would be appreciated. This sure poured cold water of road trips. Thanks,
  • rdctrdct Posts: 3
    We also have a 32' TT with full slide out weighing in around the same. 2000 X w/V10, 4x4

    2800rpm was likely because it wouldn’t go back into O/D. If you’re not sure what it’s doing, in a safe place when you can concentrate, push the O/D button in to cancel O/D(is your O/D cancel light on the shifter working?), wait a bit, then turn it on again and see if the rpm’s change. If they don’t, you were never in O/D. If it never goes back into O/D under any circumstances, then you obviously have an issue. If you couldn’t get it to go back in only when towing, (A) were you still in hilly terrain, and (B) were you using regular gas? Hopefully you don’t have a converter issue caused from lack of regular fluid changes by the previous owner.

    Not sure if you really have an issue or if you've discovered the same faults that I originally did during our first few trips. You may be merely experiencing the not-so-good- part of this truck. My opinion is that the tranny and the computer are the weak links of an X.

    I find the computer changes power range after you've been into the pedal for a while. I'd love to snap my fingers and have a carburetor when I'm losing power. It seems to calculate for your throttle position and then give you less fuel at that position, because you had to hold it there too long. As if it figures, “hey, this is the new cruising position of the throttle, so I'll back off on the fuel delivery.” And then you have less power and end up laying into it even more but never seem to get that original power back that you started out with. Finding long down grades to get it back into O/D with your foot at a relatively light position on the throttle, seems to get some of that life back.

    I can feel when I’m in the sweet spot. Takes a lot of concentration on that throttle and you need to take it out of O/D before the bottom of a hill so it can settle in and lock up the converter again before it tries calculating all the changes during the uphill climb. If in the sweet spot, the beast with go up hills with almost no extra throttle pressure and not lose a beat, like some magic is going on. If you have no choice and end up in that 4000rpm range you are on your way to the “where the heck did the beef go” range. And it never seems to come back that day, unless you shut it down for hrs.

    I have gone to the extent of pulling over and removing the battery cables to clear the memory during a lunch break. Not sure if that works all the time, sometimes appeared to but other times didn't. (remember to idle a minute or two before shutting down to cool exhaust) Always seems at it's best when you leave home for the first few hrs.

    A mechanic may be looking for something that he'll never find. If I'm right and the computer is just a little stupid, (which also seems to affect it's demented brothers, the tranny and the converter) an after market chip/on board adjustment computer may be a solution, though I've heard too many mixed reviews. I'd love to try one but will kick myself if it's a wash.

    After having a Suburban with a tranny that I loved, (but not enough pulling power), I have never liked nor gotten used to the one in the X. I've seen it not shift soon enough when losing speed up steep grades, then hold the damn gear past the top of the hill and even down part of the other side, when it should have up-shifted long ago at the top of the hill when I started backing off the throttle.

    On a trip to Yellowstone, we struggled to get over the first 12,000' pass, stopping 3 times before reaching the top because of absolutely no power, we learned together with another V10 person in the park, that we needed higher octane. We normally pulled with regular, but when driving thru mountains or anything other than flat land for that matter, we now use the highest octane available in the area and it has made a big difference. Helped in a trickle-down effect because the tranny and converter no longer have to make up for the lack of power/torque from essentially the wrong fuel.

    Fuel filter maintenance - good to keep in mind at the rate of delivery in the 4000+ rpm area.

    Keep that tranny fluid fresh. I’m anal and change it every yr. Lots of mountain towing. I do it myself so costs less than $90. Ours has never smelled burnt or showed any sludge or metal filings in the pan.

    *******check and change your rear axle fluid. Often overlooked. If it isn’t honey golden color, and I have no doubt that it won’t be, clean out that diff and freshen it up. The front diff (4x4) will likely by okay. Just by the Ford stuff and make sure to buy the Additive. Ask at the dealer, they can advise if you’re doing it yourself. Save yourself unnecessary heat build up in the rear diff and resulting failure – remember it won’t break down around town – it’s going to do it at the worst time on a trip, likely up a monster hill.

    The tranny is bullet proof if maintained, just a little dumb - leave it in O/D unless the terrain won't let it stay there for periods of approx 4mins, otherwise you will be building up heat shifting back and forth. If you find it won't maintain speed without jumping back and forth, suck it up and push the button in to cancel O/D and drive around the 2800 - 3200 rpm range. That's your power band any way. (keep that engine oil fresh and full for that kind of long-term high rpm’s – it’ll be fine) You'll only loose a mile or two per gallon - get used to the hum and vibrations at that rpm. I’ve done it numerous times for hrs at a time.

    Some guys have changed gears from their stock 3.73's to 4.35's or as high as 4.56's. Gains fuel economy around town from shifting sooner, gains fuel economy when towing or at the least maintains what you had with less wear and tear, might loose 1 or 2 mpg normal hwy driving w/o towing. Costs $$$ though. Not worth it if you don't tow many times per yr. Anywhere from $1800 up, and it needs to be done by a really competent mechanic or you will have whining, grinding and subsequent issues.

    You may want to join the Excursion club on the Ford Truck Enthusiast website (it's free ) for more opinions/info/experiences. The X is far more of a truck then the Suburban - I've had both, but you may never like the tranny. My advice would be drive it, maintain it, don't do any mods to it. It will get the job done but may not do it the way you'd expect all the time.

    Overall – keep fluids fresh, full, and use high octane when towing. We have over 80,000 miles over approx 7yrs, lots of it towing, still stock, runs without issue, does what we need but can be annoying on long uphill drives. Learning to drive it at peak operation takes time. Hope this helps you to have more confidence in your truck.

    Our #’s for ref – optimum conditions:
    11 – 12mpg combined
    13 – 15mpg hwy
    6 -7mpg towing @ 70 – 80mph
    8 – 9mpg towing @ 60mph or less
  • For anyone out there trying to decide which programmer to try . . .
    We have the SuperChip programmer on our 2002 F350 4x4 7.3 PSD. I elected to try the HyperTech programmer on our 2005 Excursion 6.0 PSD. We like the HyperTech better. Not only can we tow up to the maximum allowed on all 3 stages, but we have experienced No negative "side effects". With the SuperChip on our truck, we experience a "hiccup" of sorts. It can happen at any time - while just cruising down the road, under acceleration, coming to a stop - we never know when it will happen. When we gun it to get on the freeway and it happens, BOY O BOY does it jerk you around! It's like the engine just stops momentarily (hiccup) and goes right back to where it was before. I also don't like having to keep changing the settings when we change our driving habits - Tow safe to pull our 31' 5th wheel, Tow-Perf to pull our boat or utility trailer, Hi-Perf for "normal" driving. The HyperTech is much easier. Just set it and go! It takes another 1-2 minutes longer to program than the SuperChip, but we think the end result is better. :)
  • Hi, I have just joined. I have 2000 Limited 4x4 with Bilstein shocks and still original Firestone tires, 2nd set, first were load range C, replaced with E's no charge, somebody goofed.

    I have seen postings on changing to 202 headlights, 2002 cup holders, info, links, why? Also would like to add driving lights in same location as factory without spending fortune. Any info/help would be greatly appreciated.
  • rdctrdct Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 X also

    2002 headlights are clear lenses - brighter than yours

    2002 cup holders are deeper and won't loose your Dunkachino on left hand turns.

    I've changed the cup holders - cheap, $10 I think, can't quite remember. Very happy with it.

    I've been wanting to change out the headlights and add the factory driving lights as well - haven't found the time or the $$ to justify yet. Your headlight switch should have been recalled an will have the position for the factory running lights now - 2000's originally didn't.
  • barklyzoobarklyzoo Posts: 1
    I am a new member. I've got a 2001 Excursion Limited 6.8 2wd. I have just recently noticed a much rougher ride which seems to be coming from the front suspension. I'm thinking it could be the shocks or something a little more serious. I know it's supposed to ride a little rough. I've had the car almost 1 1/2 yrs and it just started happening about the last 2-3 mos. I have 96,000 mi approx on this vehicle. I love it. hat the idea of gas prices now and would love to have had a diesel. Has anyone had a gas engine and a diesel Excursion? Can you tell me which you preferred?

  • we've owned our 2001 x since 2003 and jsut love it. Bought it with 35k miles now have 170k. We take road trip in it and tow an 26ft artic fox travel trailer (aobut 8200lbs). 2 years ago we bought a chip for it, now we tow better and get better mileage. 20-24 hwy and about 15-17 towing at about 70mph. Who can ask for better than that. I use it as a daily driver. Love the space being designer you can fit anything and everything in it.
  • summuttsummutt Posts: 2
    I just purchased an '01 Excursion 7.3L PSD with 32K miles on it...local diesel performance shop says it's in great shape. I traded in a '99 Suburban. I will be using this for towing about 85% of the time. I got 6-8 mpg towing with the Sub, looking forward to much improved mpg with the X.

    Currently in the shop getting chipped and adding air intake. I bought it 300 miles from home after an extensive search. I have to travel two 9500' passes to get home, and the X wasn't even breathing hard going over...nor did it downshift at all.

    I think it's going to be just fine. And I'm always open to constructive advice.

    Oh BTW, this is my first Ford and my first diesel, so I'm not giving any advice just yet.
  • dyestardyestar Posts: 2
    Just read your message. I just bought a 2003 with 39k what chip do you have?
  • We have a chip from Edge Products, Evolution. be sure you get an exhaust temp gauge when you ship your rig. We are now lookin into getting a 4" exhaust as suggested from a mechanic that races his F250. Great vehicles we just love it.
    The web site for the chip is
  • summuttsummutt Posts: 2
    I'm getting the Edge Juice with Attitude. Haven't tried it yet...still in the shop. Also getting intake/exhaust. Next stop will be dealership. It came with only one key, so need xtra keys and keypad programming. $95 plus cost of keys, about $27 I think. Strangely, with all the gauges in the Attitude's arsenal, there is no tranny temp gauge, so I'm having one mech is doing it on the cheap for me.

    Last stop will be me and my local mech...just down the street and can do anything...and we'll address the rear suspension. Starting with the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) system. If expectations are met, may be all I need.
  • dyestardyestar Posts: 2
    How big a differance am I going to really notice? between the two?

    Will it be gigantic or some?

    With the diesel power is it really worth changing?

    Thanks, Jimmy D
  • playbabyplaybaby Posts: 1
    In the process of purchasing a 2005 X v10. Looking for some info on gas mileage and any other things I may need to know.

  • only buy one other key from the dealership. Then you can get an after market key, because you can code your own keys. You need two keys to code a third so always have 2 keys. Saves some money ordering keys from dealership
  • mynxrmynxr Posts: 2
    My husband and I just bought a 2005 Limited, Black exterior and parchment interior. It's basically loaded with everything but the rear entertainment system which is fine because we don't have people traveling in the second row for any length of time.
  • mynxrmynxr Posts: 2
    I don't know if this will help or not. We bought a 2005 6.8L V10 and have had no trouble towing10000 lbs. It tows like there's nothing behind us. We love it!
  • Hi !

    I have been looking for slush mats for my new beast! Where can I get some thick mats? The mats were taken out of the vehicle after I bought it, but B4 I picked it up....arg. Any suggestions?
  • walt501walt501 Posts: 17
    Go to or - you'll find all the floor mat choices there you can handle.
  • bama4usbama4us Posts: 1
    Just bought my 05 EB V10 2WD in FL and drove it back home to WI. My wife will use it to pull her horse trailer and I will probably just enjoy driving it. LUV the sound of the V10 starting. Averaged 16.5 mpg at 75 mpg for 14 hours and am a happy boy!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A reporter would like to speak to someone who recently bought a used large truck or large SUV. If you have purchased a used large truck or SUV in the past 6 months, and you are willing to discuss your decision with a reporter, please email no later than 1 p.m. Pacific/ 4 p.m. Eastern Wednesday, April 18, 2012 with your daytime contact information.
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