Mazda6 Sedan

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Comments

  • shahmaskshahmask Member Posts: 5
    i was thinking about it and you never know. since it's offered, people may buy it. i always found it amazing how many people bought ex protoge's. there might be quite a few people buying the nav system. young buyers might be willing to pay for it.
  • superbonesuperbone Member Posts: 26
    I'm quite excited. Should get it next week. It was hard to find the car in the color and options I wanted. Details:

    2004 Mazda6s - Sepang Green
    Sports package w/ spoiler
    Luxury package
    Black leather
    Bose upgrade
    Moonroof
    Side airbags and curtains

    Apparently, there aren't too many '04 Mazda6ses with the Homelink/compass/autodimming mirror so the dealer will install it.

    Anyway, can't wait. I was one of the RX-8 owners with the MPG issues (16 MPG w/ 80/20 highway/city driving.) The dealer must love me! 2nd car I've bought from him in approx 2 months.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    MT or AT?
  • superbonesuperbone Member Posts: 26
    Why MT, of course!

    I don't know how I forgot that very important little detail.
  • glideslopesglideslopes Member Posts: 431
    Great choice. I really like the Sepang. My 6s has an AT and I average around 21-22mpg 60/40 Highway/City with a heavy foot. You should do better.

    Other than the issue we all know about my 6s has been flawless from a mechanical standpoint. No CEL, clunks, or rough shifting in my AT.

    My only regret is that I should have waited for the 04's. No one to blame except myself.

    Mark. : )
  • livaudaislivaudais Member Posts: 55
    Welcome to the fold! I have a Sepang V6 MT as well. I enjoy the car more each week -- hope you do the same.

    CL
  • superbonesuperbone Member Posts: 26
    I can't wait to get the car!
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    I had 2 accidents in like a 3 year period. Haven't had an accident since. Sometimes accidents happen at a rapid pace of time. In New Jersey somebody going the wrong way on a one way street is like everyday driving. If you can drive in New Jersey you can drive anywhere and tolerate bad drivers.
  • zlotnickzlotnick Member Posts: 2
    NAV's no luxury
    In Japan, streets have no name
    Cue the Irish bard
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    why is it such a headache on the mazda6?

    Owners manual states that to replace bulb, go to a dealer.

    Will the dealer charge labor for that?
    or is it covered by mazda warranty?
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    During the warranty period, it is probably covered by the warranty. After that period, the dealer most assuredly WILL charge labor for it. They are in the business of providing service for a fee. After all, the dealership owner, the mechanic and the landlord all have spouses and kids who gotta eat, or other bills to pay or both!
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    the alimony payments :)
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Many sleekly raked headlamps require the removal of a couple screws to pull the headlamp assembly out so you can replace the bulbs.

    That's because of their depth and the amount of stuff that's crammed into the engine bay. The way the fender wraps over the top (if it does, like on the 6 and RX-8) also impedes access to the back of the headlamp.

    Anyway, the owner's manual states to take it to the dealer for the replacement, but if you're mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself. Just make sure to properly replace the headlamp so it's properly aimed.

    Mazda's 6 isn't the first (I recall the Lexus SC400 being like that...it was one of the first with really raked headlamps, and of course, the glass headlamps were a big pain to replace; my dad broke the retaining frame around one on my mother's Cutlass Supreme...she was quite unhappy). The RX-8 is similar. I don't know about the 3 yet.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    I had to replace a headlight in my 01 Accord coupe and the dealer had to remove the front bumper to get to it. What a pain. But I had slightly bumped into a car in front of me and a few months later the headlight began clouding up. Dealer pulled it out and the headlight was cracked. Luckily they replaced it at cost so it was only $280 not the $400 I expected beforehand.

    Not sure if you had to take out the whole headlight just to replace the bulbs. That seems to be a bit of a pain on a car that you should be able to perform minor maintenance items yourself.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Has anyone done it?

    The owners manual in my Protege said that you needed a special tool to change the oil filter and that you should bring it to the dealer. Yeah right.

    It might be more difficult to do because they are projector beam headlights. I don't know, I've never changed bulbs on projector beams.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    no go.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    It's not totally uncommon to have to remove the front bumper and/or headlamp assembly to change the bulbs in headlamps these days. The front bumper had to come off to change the lights in the front of my 02 Jetta actually.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Removing the front bumper is because bumpers now come up around the headlights, on either side. It forms the sides and bottom of the 5-point grille. More complex to make, more complex to fix lamps.

    Remember the Porsche 328, the whole front end had to be lifted off of the engine and frame to change the spark plugs. Or the first Toyota minivan that had the engine midship, between the front and back seats, that was so difficult to get to. Don't you know the owners loved oil spots on the carpet?

    Things could be worse.

    Headlamp alinement: Why is it they no longer have to adjust the headlights when cars are inspected? And if Xenons are self-leveling what happens when you drive over a long, bumpy road? Do they ever get out of alinement?

    fowler3
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    I've replaced most of my parking & interior lights with LEDs. But haven't tried the lowbeams yet.

    They're H1 bulbs. And from the "other mazda6 forum" people have posted pictures and instructions. At first everyone just followed the manual instructions, then more and more people replaced their lowbeam H1s without removing much. People seem to have no trouble on the passenger side, just remove rear cap (turn counter-clockwise 1/8 turn, then pull back), stick a finger or two in there and push forward and left to loosen the clip (it's hinged on the top), lift clip up to take out the bulb holder, replace bulb (do not touch the bulb glass with your fingers) and put things back the way you opened them. As for accessing the driver's side, try removing the fuse box cover, which gives you a bit of extra room. Good luck.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    If you guys hung around other forums, lots of people have replaced their (yellow) headlight bulbs with white (PIAA H1s or similar) bulbs. Its easier in the 4 cylinder, and easiest on the driver's side, but all bulbs CAN be changed without removing anything major, like the bumper!

    I might do this soon as well - just can't decide if I want to switch out my brighter yellow lights for 90% as bright, but sweet looking white lights. For $30-ish a pair it mikght be worth it to get cooler light, that's MUCH easier on the eyes. I'd do low and high beams. And parking light with white LEDs to match - otherwise (if you leave yellow parking bulbs in) it looks gross!.
  • qddaveqddave Member Posts: 164
    Just to throw my 2 cents into this rust/soap issue. It may be a soapy substance used to insert the weatherstripping into the doors, but according to post #14752 - Mazda Rust

    "They explained to me that the problem was with the "soap solution" not being fully washed off the metal components during the cleaning prior to priming."

    This sounds more like the cleaning solution used to wash off the die lubricant after the door stampings come off of the stamping line. Where I work, we usually get stampings that have some residual washing fluid left on the parts, but I'm sure they're supposed to do a more thorough job if the parts need to be welded/primed/painted. I'd bet they have it under control.
  • fred142fred142 Member Posts: 2
    I noticed on the autonews.com site that there's an article in the 10/27 edition, page 10, stating that the 6 is being investigated for leaks from the fuel tank. I'm not a subscriber. Is anyone out there? Just what we need: another problem. Thanks.
  • rkf1976rkf1976 Member Posts: 15
    For more details check out the NHTSA site and click on "Recalls", then "Investigations", for 2003 Mazda 6.
  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Member Posts: 120
    I faxed Mazda Canada Oct 15 asking what they were going to do about the rust situation. I was called today and advised that the issue had nothing to do with soap or cleaning solutions and everything to do with a failure to properly seal off an area in the door. The is supposed to be a technical service bulleting coming out in the near future.

    The fix? I was told to bring the car in for a treatment with epoxy sealant. I was advised that this would be a 100% solution. When I asked about extending my corrosion warranty "just in case" I was not met with a favourable response.

    Comments?
  • autohound1autohound1 Member Posts: 45
    FYI... Here is the text from the investigation (2003 Mazda6 only). Sorry in advance for all caps. I just did a copy/paste from the NHTSA web site.

    ON JUNE 10, 2003, THE INSURANCE INSTITUTE FOR HIGHWAY SAFETY (IIHS) CONTACTED THE OFFICE OF DEFECTS INVESTIGATION (ODI) TO REPORT A FUEL TANK LEAK INCIDENT INVOLVING THE FDM SEAL IN A 2003 MAZDA 6 PASSENGER CAR. THE LEAK WAS DISCOVERED DURING VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR AN IIHS CRASH TEST. SUBSEQUENT ANALYSIS BY MAZDA TRACED THE CAUSE OF THE LEAK TO THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS FOR BORING THE FDM HOLE. ACCORDING TO MAZDA, A MINOR SURFACE DEFECT COULD BE CREATED DURING THE CUTTING PROCESS THAT COULD POTENTIALLY RESULT IN LEAKAGE FROM THE FDM LOCKNUT SEAL. MAZDA IMPLEMENTED CHANGES IN THE TANK MANUFACTURING AND INSPECTION PROCESSES TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF DAMAGE DURING THE CUTTING PROCESS AND ENSURE THAT DAMAGED TANKS WERE DETECTED PRIOR TO RELEASE. MAZDA DOES NOT BELIEVE THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM IN THE FIELD. A PRELIMINARY EVALUATION HAS BEEN OPENED TO FURTHER ASSESS THE ALLEGED DEFECT.
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    Does anyone else like to check the spot where they've parked all day when pulling out of a parking area just in case some fluid is leaking? I got into a habit of doing this and sometimes noticed wet spots if I parked only for a while, if I park for 8 hrs or more I don't see anything. Maybe it was just water from the AC. But now that I see this fuel leak thing, it might be gasoline too since it can also evaporate in hours. I never examined it closely or smelled it. Maybe others should also pay closer attention when they drive away from a parking spot.
  • glideslopesglideslopes Member Posts: 431
    Our 02 MPV had it's tank replaced due to an error in the placement of a jack during prep. We stopped by on a Sunday prior to delivery and noticed a puddle under the van. I could smell the fuel a good 10' away. If you come out to your car and see a puddle, it is not difficult to notice if it is fuel.

    Mark.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    "The fix? I was told to bring the car in for a treatment with epoxy sealant. I was advised that this would be a 100% solution."

    Well, it's not a 100% solution if you already have rust. The "epoxy sealant" will not remove rust.
  • aromasaromas Member Posts: 314
    Is it just me or does it seem Mazda is gonna try covering up this rust fiasco with solutions like those. Doesn't even seem thay can agree on the cause. I'm not a psychic but I see a weird figure in my near future, oh wait it's a lawyer.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Hint - AC condensation up front, gas tank in back.
  • bullmooseybullmoosey Member Posts: 18
    Look back at posts 14517 & 14557. Notice I said apply caulking BEFORE rust starts. As it seems the majority of rust from condensation moisture is surface only causing a rusty powder inside the door (detected via Q-tip), sealing the weatherseal channel air gaps may be all that is needed. Visual inspection of internals should be made to confirm. Still believe that this problem will not be isolated to a short production period.
  • 1wiseguy1wiseguy Member Posts: 120
    Since mine has only a small amount of surface rust (really have to look to see it), I'm not going to immediately reject Mazda's proposed solution.

    I would feel a LOT better if they would agree to extend the corrosion warranty as well. Bottom line, if they're confident that this will fix the problem, they should be willing to back it up with extending the warranty. If it's a real fix, this will not cost them anything but will give me peace of mind.
  • cookie01cookie01 Member Posts: 369
    Isn't it almost November? Where's the Sept. report on the Mazda 6 Long Term Test? Or are these not going to be monthly??
  • cookie01cookie01 Member Posts: 369
    wonder if they checked that Long Term car for rust!
  • seafseaf Member Posts: 339
    I thought water from the AC came out of the tailpipes sometimes too? At least thats what I saw in other cars int he summer. Maybe the mazda6 doesn't do this.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Water from the A/C doesn't come out of the tailpipes. The water that comes out of the tailpipes is a by-product of combustion, not A/C condensation.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    Complete hydrocarbon combustion results in water (H20) and carbon dioxide (CO2). Carbon dioxide is invisible in it's gaseous form so all you can see out the tailpipe is the water than may condense in the exhaust system under certain conditions.
  • midwesttradermidwesttrader Member Posts: 291
    is going to be a big day. Based on the "final" story from the soapy solution/improper seal/leaking gas tank folks I will decide if I'm going to go through with the purchase of the car I put the deposit on. The dealer advised me on 10/6 that it was in port and would be here in 5 to 7 days. No word since. Of course I knew that was BS based on what I had read here about slow shipping from Flat Rock.

    Kinda makes me wonder if they are holding the '04s for any reason? Like trying to sell the last of those rusty '03s maybe.

    I really can't believe that I am still considering buying this car. Someone reassure me please (and my guess is that it won't be Mazda).
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    Whew! That was a lot of catch-up reading to do... I've had my mind elsewhere the past three days. Mainly watching the progress of the fires here in San Diego and prepping for power outages and possible evacuation. Ugh... all this smoke and ash gives me a headache. At least the 6 has the cabin filtration!

    I don't like the sound of this epoxy sealant... but, this is yet another story from Mazda. Each one differs, so I guess we'll just have to wait until Friday to see what is really going to be done. So far, I am highly unimpressed with Mazda's response. They still have not responded to or even acknowledged the e-mail I sent from 4DoorZoom for an official response. Not even a "we're working on it" response, which I invited if they had nothing else.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    No reassurance, but I understand what you're saying. While I still think the Mazda6 is a great car, I am more then a little pissed at Mazda for screwing up a good thing. Knowing me (and guessing how long it will take Mazda to fix this mess), I'll probably jump ship and take the safer route of getting the Mazda3 S. It costs less, you get the same 2.3L engine, and it's made in Japan (ouch, it hurts to say that).
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Water running out of the tailpipes means the driver is using cheap gas that has water in it. I see that sometimes as well, and it has nothing to do with outside temp, as I have seen it in summer and winter here in MD.
  • mazda6smazda6s Member Posts: 1,901
    No, it's condensation of water vapor that is a product of combustion. Water doesn't mix well with gas, and if you had that much water in the gas the car wouldn't run.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    happens in the early stages of a drive, and if one takes only short trips most of the time, one gets to replace mufflers often because the muffler never dries out well and consequently rusts. ;-)

    ... from someone who lives only 5 miles from the day job and has replaced a number of mufflers over the years :)
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    well, and remember the Altima is always there if you balk on the 6......I wonder how long before the 3 arrives.....
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    well, and remember the Altima is always there if you balk on the 6......I wonder how long before the 3 arrives.....

    Yeah - it is. However, I don't like the idea of anyone having to SETTLE for an Altima, if they like the 6 :)
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    an unrusted altima isn't a bad option to a rusty 6.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I overheard a conversation in a muffler shop once about the condensation inside the muffler of this S10 truck causing it to rust from the inside out. The shop owner told the guy that he didn't drive far enough to blow out all the condensation in the morning. The kicker was the corrosion warranty didn't cover replacement, and that particular time was the 3rd replacement muffler the truck needed in a year.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I actually almost bought a used 02 Altima when I was car shopping this past summer. They are very nice cars I think, and very large inside.
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    The interior of the Altima ruins the entire car though. Not to mention it is already beginning to look dated. I would keep waiting for a fix on the 6 before I bought the Altima.
  • midwesttradermidwesttrader Member Posts: 291
    In a strange twist of fate, after I posted yesterday I got a call from the dealer advising me that the car had finally arrived.

    I again asked the salesman about the rust issue and he continued to plead ignorance. I gave him the specific date of the email from Mazda and asked him to check with his service dept. He called me back and sure enough they had it. He told me that service had not informed anyone else since no "action" was required. I said what about all the rusting '03s left on their lot they were hoping to sell? He replied they would catch them during the PDI. Yeah right.

    The only incentive available now on '04s with 1SE is a $500 rebate, NO financing. Isn't life grand!

    Thanks for the suggestions. I drive a '98 Altima SE now. Looking for a change.
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