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Under which of those two categories should the following articles be placed?
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/do-i-have-to-use-the-manufacturers-oil.html
How many times in the last five years did Steve make the attempt to confuse the issue of the difference between specification and brand? How many others did the same thing which served to delay not only a consumers comprehension of the specification but also its implementation?
As for reading articles about oil specs, my eyes close over after the first paragraph. I read the owner's manual and I do what it tells me. How hard is this?
And yeah, I know, lots of people don't read their owner's manuals. Don't ask me. I don't know why.
From there, what about the other article?
If the issues with those (and other) articles were corrected, could the authors, publishers of the original ones open themselves up to liability if following the incorrect advice in them caused a consumer to suffer a loss?
Either that or the Chevron Tribologist Working Group.
Have you plotted your viscosity data and made your ASTM D341 graph today?
Try an automotive lubricant engineering forum - those folks are experts and are in complete agreement about oil and change intervals.
So how exactly does the consumer know how do that when they have been fed information as tainted as what can be easily found? Lets take on the myth about oil getting dark. Here is what my oil looked like this weekend when it was due to be changed again.
The mileage at the previous service was 134.4K, this change was at 142.8K for 8400 miles and that was down to 6% oil life.
For reference here is what the oil looked like after changing and running for a couple minutes.
While there is a difference it is a very small difference as compared to what most appear to assume. The new oil will take some 6000 miles to even begin to darken beyond what you see on the dipstick, then it will start to change pretty quick. It is at that point that the scent of the oil also begins to take on a burned caste, which is again in contradiction to what is suggested in the original article.
Anyone have recommendations when to change semi synth?
Regarding the issue of change frequency, one thing the bloggers above have missed is the impact of environmental conditions on the life of the oil. No matter what change frequency is recommended or what oil is used, where you live is a big factor in how fast the oil will degrade – these include very large temperature extremes, altitude, humidity and air condition (dust, smog etc.). It may not be obvious how these affect your oil, but believe me, it’s significant. For this reason and the fact I live where most of these factors are an issue, I derate the manufacture’s normal driving mileage recommendation for normal driving by 50% and have never had an engine problem. In the case of a 15 year old Cadillac Deville, this has been every 5k to 6k miles. Overkill? – prove it.
I still have one question not satisfactorily answered – for cars that are not driven very far in a year (e.g. 3k), what is the risk of perhaps changing the oil at intervals longer than the 6-7 months most companies recommend? It seems to me if the shelf life for synthetics is very long, this is too restrictive.
For example.
A car that is driven further than another for an average trip will see it's oil degrade slower.
Even though both cars may go 3000 miles a year, if one car is driven two miles each time it is started and the other is driven twenty, the one driven further will have less crankcase acid produced for the oil to have to contend with. The crankcase acids produced will significantly shorten the life of the oil on the car only going two miles essentially four times a day.
Take four cars driven in the exact same manor with different engine oils. For simplicity let's only use the North American specifications. This list would be much longer with the Euro's added in.
One car using 5W20 with an O.E. approval like GM's dexos1 specification.
One car using any brand off the wall labeled synthetic that is NOT a dexos1 nor ACEA approved product.
One car using a product approved for ACEA A1/B1
One car using a product approved for ACEA A5/B5
Your goal at this point would be to list the oils in the order of lifespan based on the shortest first and the longest last.
The answer would be the synthetic, the ACEA A1/B1, dexos1, and then the ACEA A5/B5.
To meet the dexos1 specification a product does not have to be a true synthetic but it will outperform many products that are labeled as such. dexos1 is a long life product but falls short of the ACEA A5/B5 requirement.
With just these two variables predicting real oil life for any given individual is little more than a guess.
Without going into details, the easiest way to know you should change the oil is by how dirty it looks on the dip stick. If it looks dirty, the oil draining out will look even dirtier.
The author says to run the oil until "black". That is one of the most dumbest pieces of advice. Almost like saying "don't clean your windows until they are difficult to see through".
In short, the longest lasting and best running cars that I have seen, are ones which have had frequent oil changes for the engine, transmission, power steering, differential, and cooling system. I should also add brake fluid to the list. I've seen many cases of dirty contaminated brake fluid.
Synthetic oils do last longer, but they get contaminated and oxidize also. So my advise is stay on the safe side of maintenance.