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Comments
Any suggestions out there for the third row for a custom fitted mat? Any pros/cons based on experience with carpet versus rubber? I was also thinking of changing out the factory mats in the first two rows but it seems like a waste of money since we just recently got the car.
Any feedback appreciated. Thanks.
Also just took it in for the recall on the steering and cv's or something like that and was told the vibration was due to it needing the axle replaced. Can that recall item cause a part in the axle assembly to go out? The dealer said its unrelated, but I find it hard to believe.
You might want to have the dealer check out your brakes. I have an 05 model, and the brakes are very powerful. When I first got the car, I actually felt the brakes were too grabby. Keep in mind this is a very heavy vehicle, so it will take longer to stop than a compact car.
Which axle is bad? Some rear axle seals were defective which caused problems. Front ends have seen several fixes including axle splines. Which recalls and TSBs have been performed? I assume you checked these things before buying used.
I would to install the Parrot 3200 buletooth myself. Has anyone instlled the Parrot 3200? I am told there is a wire harness made for my 04 xc90 that will make this as easy as, plugging in the harness to Parrot and radio? Does the fact that the radio uses fiberoptics matter in this install? They make a harness that goes in line between car and radio.
Does anyone have specific directions on how to remove radio (non-premium) I have a general idea of removing shifter trim and screws under climate control. However I read " Do not remove connectors before turning the ignition off"
When should I turn ignition on during this removal process and when should it be off? Is battery always disconnected first. I am new at this but want to give it a good try.
ANy specific info would be greatly appreciated.
Links to a remaval page would be great. I have not come up with a detailed one yet.
Thanks,
Wayne
Can you tell me if that recommendation is based on you having experience doing it and it was difficult? Believe it of not an installer told me that it was not a big job and could be something I could do. I am looking for some guidance maybe from people on this forum who have taken the radio out. I would think that would be a fairly common thing for various reasons.
Thanks
Getting a non Volvo piece of equipment to interface w/ a new Volvo is difficult.
Installing the factory approved Bluetooth involves more than just pulling the radio.
We don't abuse the vehicle in my opinion. I'm not obsessive about treating the leather, but it gets the standard armor all treatment 3-4 times a year.
Any thoughts? Anything special I should be using to treat the leather?
Also, Is this an issue that I can raise with Volvo and hope for some help?
Has anyone installed the Navigation systems after the delivery. I am from boston area. Any portable good navigation system with 6 - 7 inch screens. Thanks in advance.
It doesn't sound normal.
Thanks,
Thanks
You can plug a sirius unit into the XC90's AUX port.
But, there is no way to integrate an aftermarket Sirius unit directly into the factory radio.
I test drove the V6 and liked the vehicle except that the engine seemed underpowered for the car.
I have read negative comments about the reliability of the XC90 transmission and was wondering whether the straining engine and transmission for the V6 engine might be improved by the V8 engine.
Has anybody had transmission problems with the V8?
Reliability of both engines has been excellent.
The 3.2 is perfectly capable of moving the car, the V8 is faster.
I have read about transmission problems for earlier model years in the XC90 and during my test drive of the 2007 I6 XC90
I noticed that the 3.2L engine was under some strain moving the car because of noticeable noise levels with little throttle response compared to a sports sedan.
I don't know whether or not this noise and lack of throttle response translate to transmission problems down the road or not.
Would the V8 engine be a better choice or does the added weight of this engine and drivetrain offset some of the performance benefit of the extra horsepower and torque?
It is simple physics.
Most SUV are slow comapared to the average sedan.
Now,the V8 is very quick,but it is also alot more money than the I6.
It's actually a pretty easy install. The 2007 XC90s are completely sirius ready. The radio unit comes with a bracket that screws directly into metal frame of the car in the rear, pretty much right behind the tail light assembly, inside the body. (I believe this is how it works. You can actually download the instructions for installation from the volvo web site.) The radio is already hard wired back there and it's a simple plug in. From there, you simply route the antenna up to the roof, which also is pretty well explained in the instructions. A dealer with the right tools should be able to do it in an hour or hour and a half, tops. No cutting, retrofiting, bending, drilling, wiring, etc. Once installed, the radio runs through your factor-installed radio and is completely integrated. YI believe you'll just have a new option on your selector for satellite and can tune and control it using your regular radio and steering wheel nobs. That's how it's supposed to work anyway.
Bluetooth is a bit more complicated, although the part is cheaper.
Has anyone seen it work before?
Does it work pretty good?
Has anyone ever had their dealership add it and how'd that go?
Is the camera small and discrete like a Lexus/Infiniti or is big and ugly like on the Honda Pilot?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I gather that in 2008 the SI6 will be used in the V-70. Will it be the base engine? It has plenty of power for me in the XC-90 so it ought to make the V-70 move.
This I-6 is called the "SI6" or "short inline-6" because the engine or the engine and tranny together are almost exactly the same length as the 5-cyl it replaces. One way they do this is by putting the serpentine belt driven accessories on the back of the engine (driver side)above the transmission. The alternator is not driven by the serpentine belt but by a separate internal gear and it is located on the side of the engine (front of engine bay) under the intake manifold.
What I wonder about is whether the tranny in in SI6 has been made more compact or is it the same tranny as in the V-8? I prefer inline engines because of reduced complexity (half the number of cam shafts, and only one head gasket) and changing spark plugs should be a breeze, compared to a transverse mounted V-8 or V-6.
It does not have a dipstick.
It is the same tranny as in the V8.
The SI6 engine series is approx the same size as the old I5 engine.
The 3.2 SI6 engine will be the base engine in the 2008 V70.
The optional engine will be the 3.0L SI6 Turbo,at 281hp.
This will only be available in the AWD configuration.
For reasons I can't elaborate, I'm under the impression that today's autodiesels should all be turbocharged, but for me personally a normally aspirated gasoline spark-ignition engine is adequate and preferable. A NA inline-6 is just right for my needs in every way.
I have wondered about the octane requirements for the NA 3.2L SI6, which has a compression ratio of 10.8:1. The manual states that AKI 87 is the minimum acceptable, but that 91 or above is recommended for optimum performance (or something to that effect).
Where I live, gasoline comes in AKI 87, 89, and 93, so the straightforward procedure would be to just fill with AKI 93. But what I sometimes do is make a quick cal'n of the amount of fuel that the vehicle is going to take to fill the tank, then sequentially deliver equal parts of 93 and 89 or 2 parts of 93 to one part of 87. Both give AKI 91 assuming the effect of the octane additives is to combine linearly, which I am confident is true enough for this purpose.
This is not as much trouble as it might sound. The idea is not so much as to save a dollar or two per 20 gal of fuel as it is to get the highest mpg, consistent with complying with the mfgr's recommendation and protecting the engine for the long haul.
Here is the basis for going to this extra trouble, which I admit I have not fully researched. AKI 87, 89, and 93 gasolines all have the same gasoline "base", but the progressively higher AKI fuels have higher levels of octane boosting compounds (like ethanol). Some, or all, of these octane boosters actually have a lower energy content than the gasoline base. Therefore, you might actually get higher fuel economy with AKI 91 (mixed on the spot) than with AKI 93 octane.
Could this give rise to a detectable increase in mpg?
Is this standard in lease agreements as this is my first lease?
Regards.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
"A premium motor fuel will often be formulated to have both higher octane as well as more energy. A counter example to this rule is that ethanol blend fuels have a higher octane rating, but carry a lower energy content on a volume basis (per litre or per gallon). . . . it is possible to formulate high octane fuels that carry less energy per liter than lower octane fuels. This is certainly true of ethanol blend fuels (gasohol), however fuels with no ethanol and indeed no oxygen are also possible."
So this doesn't give much hope for any significant mpg improvement by mixing AKI 89 and 93 to get 91.
There would be a slight savings in fuel cost, but this would probably be overbalanced by the environmental drawback that this approximately doubles the possibility of fuel spillage and evaporation losses by doubling the fueling operations.
with our 5-cylinder xc90 we use 87 octane except during summer months when we use 91+: in the heat is when the power loss due to 87 is most noticeable and the mpg loss becomes measurable, and is maybe about 10%.
I interpret this to mean that, except under the most demanding operation, the knock sensor and timing controls can be expected to protect the engine using AKI 87, but I'm still unwilling to use AKI 87 as a matter of course. I am near sea level and it is hot here. The savings in fuel costs are to me not worth the chance I could damage the engine. Usually I take such good care of the engines in my cars that the engine outlasts the car as a whole, but I just can't stand the thought of abusing an engine. I change the oil at mrgr's recommended intervals, but not more frequently, but I use full synthetic oil even though it costs three or four times as much as "dino" oil.
I believe the oil companies when they claim on the pump that their fuel is 93 octane. I just wish they would offer 91 octane as well. But maybe they know the market and maybe it is only marginally more expensive to produce 93 over 91 and significantlymore expensive to offer a fourth grade of fuel at the retail outlet.
Ethanol used to be added to fuel as an "oxygenate" which lowered the exhaust stream levels of some pollutants, but ethanol is also an octane booster and no doubt that property is taken into account in the formulation of gasoline. Engine controls in gasoline engines are now so good that oxygenates are no longer needed to meet emissions standards, and the much vilified oxygenate regulation was removed in, I think, 2006.
But now there is a requiement that ethanol be present in fuel, supposedly to reduce our dependence on forign petroleum sources, and under the dubious claim that ethanol is a "green" fuel and a "renewable resource". This is mostly bunk and the ethanol mandate is mainly a subsidy to big agribusiness in the corn belt, but that is the way our representative democracy works.
The sales staff said they had reports of this piece coming out of a number of new XC90s and they suggested that it is a "shipping seal" which should have been removed at the distributor. But the seal looks too durable to be shipping packing. It has no part number on it. It looks to me like it is supposed to be fastened to the bottom of the radiator, but that the fasteners were never installed during assembly.
What is status of this part? It is the same length as the radiator is wide, and fills the gap between the bottom of the radiator and the metal front skidplate.
To cut wind noise and turbulence
white smoke sounds like an FI or MAF issue.
Major service is every 30k.
2.5T should not have any problems, I have mine for 61K already with 0 defects.
T6 on other side has known issues with a transmission and have horrible gas mileage.
Unfortunately, I did not look at the piece once it was "reinstalled" to see how secure it was. The piece began dangling again yesterday, and when I got under the car to replace it, it fell off in my hand.
What is this thing? Is it really important?
Thanks,