Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

flamingoo

I want to add, that when I put in new transmission fluid today, flushing the old out, it is pumping good in drive now. The old fluid was a little foamy though. Have yet to drive it to check everything out.

Thanks
Jim

mac24

At the very least I'd flush the fluid a couple more times. This event doesn't bode well for the transmission's long term future though.

However, I can't imagine why you didn't return to Wal-Mart immediately you realized what had happened, and have them deal with the whole mess. It was their screw-up and their responsibility to put things right, preferably with a new transmission.

golfpro1

I was wondering if anyone can give me some help. I want to change my spark plugs but the dealership will only install the BS Champion copper crap....they say it is what is recommended for the engine. I own a 04 Ram 1500 5.7l Hemi and plan on installing the Bosch platinum plugs. I looked at the engine and it looks crowded. I would assume I have to remove the master cylinder on the drivers side to access the rear four plugs. Can anyone help me out on what needs to be done? Never did this on the truck...looking for someone who has replaced plugs on the same model vehicle....THANKS...F
ast response would be greatly appreciated as I have a 12pack almost cold.

funckes

You should have called Wal-Mart and said what the F is this!! Tell them to get your truck back over there or you were going to have it towed over at thier expense. Make sure you sue for any damage. Now that you've messed with it might be harder to prove, they usually take the mielage for any work, the more you put on the more they can try and call BS on you. Do you still have all the old oil you drained out? I'd talk to one of those shifty lawyers in town, possible your insurance agent can hook you up and see if you can't get walmart to pay to have it fixed at another shop. If they dumped oil in your tranny that can't be good and it's thier fault. If you have good enouph proof Wal Mart should pay the relativly small amount they would have to pay to fix your tranny to aviod yet another law suit especially if that's all your ask'n for.

funckes

I looked at the manual and all it talks about removing are the air intake tubing. I definitly see what you talkin about but I think you could hit those with a U joint comming strait in as opposed to from the top. I'm saying with and extension traveling underneath the brake booser, hitting the U joint and then down into the chamber. Might be able to hit the same from above but the angle looks much steeper from the top. Check it out before you tearing your truck apart =O). Let me know what happened I need to do mine as well!!

FYI for everybody ***http://www.hemitruckclub.com/*** I just found this site though a friend of mine today! Check it out, repair manuals for 03 and up are on this site, front page in pdf.

alten88

This could be due to the defective catalytic converter that the EPA just sued Daimler/Chrysler for! My 97 Ram 1500 needs a new one, and in researching online I discovered this info. We should be getting recall notices on this but as I own mine 3rd hand, it may never get to me......anyone know how to get recall work done without the letter?
Alten88

alten88

Can anyone tell me if there is a way I can get this repaired without the recall letter?
read: $94 million Settlement with Chrysler over Emission Control Defects.
http://enviro.blr.com/display.cfm/id/63136

69chargerrt

I'm hoping someone can shed some light on an issue that I've been having with my truck.

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.9L quad cab, 84,000k

The engine will "die" on me on occasion while driving. Doesn't matter what speed or if the engine is cold or hot. All of the electrical equipment in the truck continues to work even after the engine has quit. The engine does not sputter or spit before it dies it just quits. Sometimes the truck will fire backup if I wait a minute or two and other times I have to let it sit for an hour or more (coincidence?). Sometimes the vehicle can sit overnight or during the day while at work and when I go to start it it will turn over but will not fire up. I have already replaced the fuel pump & Plugs but still having the same problem. I am going to swap out the Ignition coil tomorrow to see if this helps. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated!!!! :confuse: :mad:

funckes

Can't you just take it to dodge, it's not like you can't prove you have the truck. I can't imagine it would be differnt than any other TSB or repair work covered under warranty. They lost a law suit to the EPA, they have to fix it if you have the truck. If you read the article even if you paid to fix it already yourself they are going to reimburse you. Call your dealership and talk to the service department I'm sure they are already flooded with calls, or if not you can get in before the rush.

rwbarkow

Check your oxygen sensors.

hburris

My truck did the same thing. I pulled the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump but discovered that the nylon sock (pre-filter) was dirty. Cleaned it with some break cleaner and it works great. I am geting the same code on my engine now. My book says transmission. Yes I am having problems with mine going to third gear.

KCRam

This is usually a computer issue, as all the gauges are computer controlled. Have the codes puilled, and you will likely get a reading for one of the gauge cluster or instrument panel failures.

kcram - Pickups Host

mjwrubel

I am the original owner of a 4x4 quad cab with 170K on it, which has been a very dependable and solid vehicle but is now starting to show a few intermittent problems that I could use a little help on.

First, the truck is generally kept in a garage at night. If I leave the truck out on a cool to cold night it occasionally has a very difficult time starting. I may have to crank the engine for 3-5 minutes before any firing occurs and once the engine does start it will run very rough until warm. Once warmed up the engine runs fine and the truck will restart without missing a beat.

If the truck is kept in an unheated garage it always starts right up.

I have yet to do any trouble shooting because the problem occurs so infrequently but I am concerned it may fail to start and strand me sometime in the future thus my searching this forum.

Any input on trouble shooting and / or similar problems and solutions will be appreciated.

nonothen

After my 2002 ram runs for a while, when I stop at a light or something the oil pressure gauge will drop and my check gauges light will come on. Any ideas what wrong?

mac24

The 'check gauges' light is telling you that one of the gauges is reading too high or too low, i.e. the oil pressure gauge.

While oil pressure will normally drop when the rpm decrease, it shouldn't get to the point where the 'check gauges' light illuminates. You either have a problem with the oil pressure sender unit, the oil pump or possibly the bearing shells are worn or damaged, or you're low on oil.

The first thing to do, after checking the dipstick, is to attach a mechanical pressure gauge to see what the real oil pressure is.

mullis1

Dusty, or any else out there in cyberworld that could help with question #2642! Anything would be greatly appreciated! I think I have a Lemon! :lemon:

If more info needed please refer to questions #2633, 2624, or 2609. Thanks again

hburris

my 96 ram 1500 5.2 liter has problems shifting into 3rd gear. Let up on gas and it will shift. Took it to shop and they found a blown fuse and they drove it ansd said it was good to go. (no charge) I drove it and it did well. Parked it and a few hours later it is back to same old problem. Checked the fuses and they are all good. Anyone have any ideas, all the shops tell me something different.

jneal

Seems to be the classic symptoms of a plugged converter but at this point all we can do is guess. Go by AutoZone and have them scan the codes and post them and some of us then can make a more-educated guess as to the problem.
What is the mileage on your truck?

mullis1

The truck has 67,000 miles on it and there are no service lights on to be checked. I've asked different people at work and other places about a plugged converter and nobody seems to think that's what it is. The converter does not get excessively hot, doesn't sound like it's broke, and the exhaust flows out great.(you can see it on cold days) It's a 4x4 and the converter is welded to the bracket that helps protect the tranny/transfer case so it's not something that I could do on a weekend.

02ramman

I'm assuming you have a 1500. If so there is a computer flash that takes care of this problem if it is only happening momentarily. The bad news is if you have it flashed, your oil pressure gauge becomes set in one position (just past halfway)when the engine is running.

dustyk

Well, I think you've got a problem but I don't think you've got a lemon.

Oddly, I had the same identical problem with my '93 Sentra. I could not seem to isiolate the problem but being close to selling the car I didn't pursue it much.

I need some information, and I appologize if you've given this out before. I beg your patience a little.

How many miles on this 2002? Can you remember when this condition began and did it occur soon after any kind of repair, maintenance or other event?

Regards,
Dusty

gohorsego

I have a 1997 dodge ram 1500, 190,000 miles on the 360 motor. I have no power. I have changed spark plugs/wires/distrib/rotor had the transmission checked and serviced and oil changed. I still have no power. I can go about 60 mph tops. does not smoke excessivly, the codes say missing on cylinders 8,7, 4 and multi, that is why I did the tuneup. Runs and idles very well, I can rev up without choking out, or missing etc. Does not seem to burn much oil.

Could this be a catalytic converter problem? I'm not choking out, and not smoking bad like a valve ir head gasket.

What is my next step?

Thanks,

mullis1

Dusty,

it's a 2001 1500 quad cab sport 4X4 with the 318. I bought the truck in August 2005 with 58,000 and now it has 67,000. No major repairs have been done. I noticed the problem the first time I drove it on the interstate. I took it to the dealer I bought it from and they were no help so I took it to the Dodge dealer and they said it shouldn't be doing the downshifting but they offered no help. The problem occurs while driving down the interstate at anywhere after 55mph's The truck will downshift out of overdrive if the wind blows, there's a rise in the road or if I have something in the back, it's really bad when I have several people in the truck with the air conditioning on and the wind blows or there's a hill. Depending on the wind and size of the hill it will go anywhere from 3000rpms all the way to 4500/5000rpms. I know that most vehicles shift out of overdrive while going up steep hills but it shifts at every little hill. My old chevy never had this problem. Here is what has been done to the truck in hopes of solving the problem, new spark plugs(me), K/N filter(me), trans flushed(speed lube), Diff. fluid replaced(speed lube), throttle cable tightened(dealer), emissions harness replced(dealer), and tranny put on diagnosis machine(dealer). No lights are on and the catalytic converter doesn't seem to be clogged, the exhaust flows very well(you can see it cause it's cold here). After all of these different things I still have the problem. Anymore information I can give you let me know. I think that is everything though. Thnaks again - Matt

jneal

You are saying there are no "service lights" on.......by this do you mean there are no check engine light etc on your dash or do you mean that someone has hooked a scanner to the truck and there are no stored trouble codes?

If it has not been scanned for codes, go by AutoZone and they will scan it for free and then post the codes, if any, here and that will provide a lot more information.

mullis1

there are no lights on such as check engine, yes that's what I'm saying. AutoZone only scans if you have a service engine soon light on.

bully1

I experienced the same problem. Does it say (no bus)if so does it shift into overdrive if not then your problem is in the overdrive shift module, located inside the transmission. Remove pan,filter and valve body the module will be located just beyond that. It has failed which is very rare or it is plugged up from clutch or band material. Was the transmission fluid dirty? if so then the module is more then likely plugged. Replace module and all the gauges will start working. Be sure to replace with proper tranny fluid, Very important. Good luck!

trexmgd

I am experiencing the exact same problem: My 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.9L (360) will show the "check gauges" lamp and "ding" after cruising at highway speeds then coming to a stop (usually when going down hill on an off ramp or coming to a complete stop). When I look down, I see the Oil Pressure gauge drop to zero, then raise back up to normal, all in one smooth, short sweep.

For the first year, I had the oil changed every 3,000 miles, but have since cut that back to 5,000 miles. I've noticed that my Dodge will use about 1/2 quart of oil at about the 3,000 mile mark. I have NO idea where the oil is going: no spots on the driveway and no blue smoke.

Other searches on this subject alway pull up Dodge Durango 4.7L oil sludge issues.

Anyway, the oil pressure drop scares the heck out of me, so anyone that has any suggestions or comments, please reply or e-mail me: cyunvme AT gmail dot com.

wiseass23

I notice that many people have P1491 as an error code which states it's a Radiator Fan Relay.... but mine says that it is an Auxiliary Emission Control problem...which one is right? It is a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab. Thanks

02ramman

TSB 18-029-01 addresses this issue. There is no harm being done. It has to do with updating the gauge from the sensor. As stated before, this flash will fix the problem but turn your oil pressure gauge into a so called "idiot light". As long as there is oil pressure (no matter how much or little) it will position the indicator just past half way. The late 02 and all 03 on up Ram's now have this.

schmedly

If you are losing oil and don't have a leak, have your plenum gasket checked. It is one of the symtoms of a problem that 5.9 engines are known for.

airwolfy

I just had the same exact problem 2 days ago. I started my 2002 2500 and all gauges were not working, and some of the dummy lights stayed on, ABS, Airbags, etc. We checked all the fuses and they were fine. I have also been having a hesitation problem the first 10-20 minutes of driving in the mornings. So I decided to take it to the dealer, and on the way there the gauges started working again. The tech said he didn't know why the gauges did that, it sounded like a power supply problem, but he couldn't find it. They also aren't sure of this hesitation problem, but suggested a cleaner for my intake valves.

kish

I have a 2004ram 2500 5.7 hemi. I have moisture under oil fill cap mostly notice in winter. Does any one have the same problem.And will it hurt my engine. thanks..kish

trexmgd

Thank you for your response.

When referencing one of these TSBs, do I just walk into the dealership and state that I want it performed? Is there a charge for this, since it is a known issue? Also, am I obligated to allow them to come to their own diagnosis of the problem (and the fee that comes with it)?

mac24

A TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) can be regarded as an addendum to the Factory Servic Manual (FSM). It's a description of a procedure to be used to make a particular repair, which may or may not be an item covered under warranty.

Just the same as you can ask to have your oil and filter changed (and nothing else), you can ask to have the procedure described in a particular TSB performed.

reddodge

as i read about the cluster panel going completely out and leaving nothing but a red dot it was my exact story! my vehicle has been maintained at the garage as scheduled. it only had 50,000 miles and now they say it is an expense because sorry your 7-70 doesn't cover a heck of alot for the 30,000+ you paid us for it only four years ago. they would not let me drive it home as all of the gauges just quit! hows that for a dodge experience that the FORD dealership will appreciate when i buy my next vehicle from them.

reddodge

you have my exact story, only 7 months later. question did dodge back up their failed instrument cluster or stick you with the cost? i'm thinking FORD Racing sounds good! :lemon:

007bigtex

94 Dodge Ram pickup

Engine starts just fine, but can’t drive for more than 50 yards; it starts struggling and suffocating until the engine dies. I’ve already replaced the catalytic converter and its still having the same problems. So I’m thinking it's either an oxygen sensor, exhaust sensor, or something like that.

Are the sensors easy to replace? where are they located, is there anything online like pics or diagrams that show how and where to replace it?

OBD reads code 55

any other suggestions?

Thanks!
007BigTex

joelocal

jneal

55 is the end of codes marker on your vehicle. If there was no codes before that then you don't have a code set.

My first impression from the symptoms is a fuel problem. Either the regulator or fuel pump. Will the vehicle idle for extended periods or does it die after a couple of minutes idling also? When it dies will it restart right away or do you have to wait for some time?
I would check the fuel pressure both with engine off and with engine running before I went any further.

joelocal

My 2001 Ram 1500 truck doesn't shift properly about 1/2 of the time unless I let it set in park for 1 - 2 minutes. Sometimes, if I don't let it set, it will will shift into drive until I get up a high rpm. But about 1/2 of the time it will shift fine without setting in park. What would most likely caused this?

bogie13

i am having the same problem with my o2 ram 2500 diesel 4x4 pickup . i just finished the last leg of 1900 mile trip and the only way i got home was to turn the ignition switch off and back on every 14 seconds if i did not do this the truck would just keep slowing down to a crawl. it would not die or sputter but has no power at all . at freeway speed it feels like a switch is flipped and the truck just starts slowing down. the throttle position has no effect on anything ,sometimes pushing in the clutch and allowing the engine to go to idle for a few seconds while you coast and walking back in to the throttle will also do it . Any help at all . thanks Rolfe

dig1up

Just picked-up a 4x4 2500 w/5.9 about a month ago. Old owner told me O/D didn't work for a long time. Only drove truck about 1,000 miles (now has 140K on it), and the truck just stopped, with only a bit of slipping prior to that for a hint of what was to come. Dropped pan, changed filter (clogged-up good) and now after reading other posts put the wrong (dexron/mercon) fluid in (about 4qts) and topped with the Lucas Transmission "Honey". Truck drove fine about 30 miles, then just stopped again. Talked to tranny guy, he said filter probably already clogged, because truck whines like a bad pwr steering pump. He thinks time for rebuild. :sick: Hoping to get a few miles out of it first, any suggestions? Should all of the fluid come out and if so how? This valve on the return line spoken about? Easy to get at and replace? Was it bad to put that Lucas product in? Maybe too thick and clogged filter?

Thanks to all! :confuse:

aselvin

I just replaced the plenum gasket and now that it's all back together there is no fuel pressure, and the fuel gauge reads empty even though it's 3/4 full. I checked the fuse and the relay but can't figure it out.

twinswin333

:confuse: In my 02 Ram My check Engine light came on. i had it come on last year took in and turned out it was my gas cap that need to be replaced. So i went and bought a new cap thinking that could be the problem again, the question is there a reset for the dash board lights or sensors? if that was the prob? i really don't want to bring it in when i am 95% sure that is the prob. and should i have bought the gas cap from the dealer? or is one from the auto parts store OK? the truck is running fine other then now its getting really crappy gas mileage, and i figure that's because the gas tank isn't fully sealed? if anyone know or has any ideas pleas let me know thanks

mullis1

I bought an aftermarket gas cap and the same thing happened. So, I went to the dealer and got a dodge gas cap and the problem went away. Hope this helps

twinswin333

Thanks

twinswin333

Does the light go out right away or do you have to wait for it to build up pressure after you bought the new dodge gas cap? if you remember??

wfuller

Have you changed out your ASD relay? Mine did that to, then got so bad i had to park my truck b/c i couldnt get it down the street. The ASD relay is located in the PDC (the relay box located next to your battery under the hood) and costs around $6. try that, it's inexpensive and easy.

wfuller

My truck just died while cranking one morning.. since then i have replaced: Ignition Switch, Ignition Coil, Park/Neutral Switch, PCM (costly..), all the relays have power and i recently had to replace my ASD relay so all the relays are new. I've bench tested my starter and it works. There is voltage to the starter and when cranked there is little to no draw, i don't under stand why it wont start.. any suggestions? I really dont wanna take it to a mechanic, low on funds. It ran great up until that morning, confused .

mullis1

The dealer put on the new cap when I had it there for another problem and they reset the light. Autozone will do it for free to.