Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

kap1500

When I coast, I get a fluttering noise coming from the back of the truck. Give it any amount of gas and it goes away. Checked the drive shaft for any slop and seems tight.

whitman

i had the same problem , it was my coil .

i hope this helps , jeff

lbjkj

I had the same problem after my battery went dead. So if your truck was running fine and then your battery went dead are has low voltage then you need a new battery. After mine went dead i jumped it but it would not idle i had to hold the gas to keep it running. I charged the battery with a charger but it wouldnt hold enough charge to run the computer so i replaced the battery and that fixed everything.

mullis1

Do you think this could be the same problem that I am having with my 01 318 4x4? And how easy is it to remove the catalytic converter?

moe12

I have a '96 ram 2500 diesel and the ABS and brake light stay on. The speedometer works fine and also when I first start up the truck the truck rolls a takes off when it is put in gear for a few feet before the brakes work. Can you give a me a good place to start trouble shooting?

buck85

I used to have the same problem on my old 95 dodge and it turned out to be the fuel pump going bad. Probably not what you wanted to hear but I hope it may help some.

tallertom

I believe my was welded in place. I am not sure with the newer ones.
If you have a friend with a cutting torch its no problem. Just put a piece of straight pipe back in its place. Or you can take a good pry bar and break the stuff out of the inside and then put if back on. If your person that does your inspections looks for that type of thing its better to be put back on after its been cleaned.

In my part of the country we just remove them and put in a piece of pipe.

You might post and ask if it effect any computer controls on the new models.

I got by ok with mine.

Tom

willthing

I hooked up a flatbed trailer to our Dodge 3/4 ton truck and noticed the trailer lights didn't work correctly.

The light hookup is a large round plug (not the quarter sized plugs I'm used to). We took the truck plug assembly apart to clean it as it has never been used in 10+ years and now the brake lights on the truck itself will not work. Everything else is fine (havn't tried the trailer since noticing this problem). Is there a fuse that could have been blown in the testing?

Also, the "brake" light is now on, on the instrumentation panel although the parking brakes are not on.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Will

schmedly

I believe there are 2 different fuses that are related to the brake/trailer lights. I suspect that 1 of them blew either when you plugged in or when the plug was being cleaned out.

bethlynn

I have a 2002 Dodge Ram, my security light is blinking and my owners manual only tells me what it is. I have no idea how to turn this off! The truck has no power and will not turn over. Can anyone help me...I have to work tomorrow and really would like to drive myself!

wildbullrider

I have a '95 ram 2500 and all of the guages have quit working.There are no extra warning lights or anything out of the ordinary except that none of the guages work. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. :confuse:

carhelpme2

someone please help< i have a 89 dodge ram pick-up with a 318 motor i cannot get it to fire. i have put a new coil, rotor, distributor,plug wires and a new computer. still no spark can anyone help?

mullis1

my 2001 4x4 with the 318 has no power after 50mph. It is really hard to keep the truck at cruising speeds going down the interstate. It kicks out of overdrive when the wind blows or I go over a small rise in the road. I don't think it's a plugged converter. The dealer has checked the transmission, throttle cable, and cruise control. I put in new plugs, a k&n filter and still no help. Gas mileage is really horrible too.

mills2

I've got a '99 Ram 1500 4x4 extended cab. While driving, my check gauges light will come on, stay on for a few minutes then turn off. This will happen every 15-20 minutes and it will stay on for only a minute or two. Anyone have any advice for me on this?

schmedly

The "check Gauges" light will come on usually because one of your gauges is reading information that is dangerous to your engine. A typical example would be when the light goes on that maybe you are are low on oil and your oil pressure is intermittently dipping below the safe level. Basicaly check to find out what engine function is messing up.

hotfoot

That's what I told them 4K miles ago. It makes sense. Going back next week for round 8 I think. Thanks.

dmeents1

Dusty hope your still out there. Anyone actually I have a 94 ram 5.2L 1500 after warming up starts losing power like running on 3or 4 cylinders. Recently replaced fuel filter pressure regulator, O2 sensor, cat converter, and rebuilt trans (different problem) truck has 185k miles on it and I live 40 miles from dealer. I can only get about 5 miles before it acts up, on the OBD I am getting a code 37 which is not referenced in the Haynes manual I purchased. I called a dealer and they stated their scantool uses P codes and they dont have a cross reference. does anyone have any ideas or solutions? Please help desperate

iowabigguy

http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html
Try the above URL for decoding your code. From what I saw it related to your transmission. Rick

paintman

paintman

My van only blows cold air even when engine is warmed (cant defrost window ) unless you are driving then it gets warm/hot, why is this?

carrie01

I am having problems with shifting into 3rd and 5th gear on my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500. 5th gear was only the problem at first and now the third gear is doing the same thing. It will make a loud noise and hang up and doesn't get the power. Is there a regular maintenance problem I should be addressing as I don't want to take it into a mechanic as I don't have the money right now. Could someone please give me some help on what the problem might be and what I should do. regular maintenance things to check out before calling a mechanic. Being a woman doesn't help matters either.

boone3

I have the same problem.On my way to work,stopped at the gas station and got back in and nothing. The security light flashing and making a noise but no power.What did you have to do to fix the problem?

hooverjohns

The interior cluster on my dodge 3500 will go dark, all gauages work but no lighting. The interior lights will not work during this time. After 1 to 5 hours lights will start working again. Anyone seen this problem? Thanks

sgormley

I recently changed the timing gears in my truck and now it won't start unless I step on the gas peddle. Any suggestions on what has happened.

tex13

I have a 98 Ram 1500 SLT 4x4.

If the vehicle is left for more than 24 hours it won't start. If it is placed in a warm building for an hour or two it will start and run like a clock. I thought it was because of the cold. I now belive it is directly related to the relative humidity because last night it would not start and the temp was above freezing but we were in heavy fog and light misty rain. I would like to know if anyone out there has had the same problem or knows what could be the cause. This is frustrating. I talked to a mechanic and was told that it could be the cam sensor,crank sensor,or maybe the ignition coil. What could be getting damp, or cold that one or two hours in a warm structure would cause to function correctly. I would greatly appreciate any advise on this.

Tex

renenadeau

I Have a 2000 Ram 1500 two wheel drive 5.2 automatic transmission.First of all the over drive off light would come on while cruising down the highway. Had to come to a complete stop to get it to go back into OD.Next, the check engine light comes on and stays on.Took it to a Dodge dealer here in Nova Scotia who came up with a fault code P1740. Told me that an educated guess would be a dead transmission solenoid and would cost 750.00 to repair. Unwilling to spend that kind of money on an educated guess I took it to a transmission specialist who found I had blocked lines to the radiator and put in a transmission cooler.Parts and labour costs..436.00. Now, when I start the motor there is a grinding noise which gets worse when I put it in gear and then sort of goes away as the engine warms up.Went back to the "specialist" who now thinks there is a pump causing the noise and might as well go for a new transmission. This is a truck I bought second hand which had 115000 Km on it. It now has 130 000 Km.Am thinking maybe its time to get rid of this thing and cut my losses. I would be greatful for any advice anyone could give

dustyk

When you state that you hear a "grinding" noise, would it be more accurate to describe it as a heavy buzzing noise?

Just a guess, but if the input or intake side of the pump on a Mopar automatic is restricted (not enough flow in to the pump) they will sometimes make a very audible buzzing sound. It's possible that sludge material escaped from the previously clogged cooling lines and is now in the valve body and other lines on the input side of the pump. Also, if the lines were plugged I'd bet there was a lot of material in the radiator transmission cooling tank. I've seen a number of them that could not be cleaned by low pressure flushing and had to have the radiators replaced.

In addition, there is a anti-drainback valve located in the return cooling line at the fitting to the radiator. These valves are easily clogged. They can be flushed and saved, but only if completely removed from the vehicle. It is not uncommon to see them just replaced in good transmission shops.

Chrysler/Dodge transmissions require ATF+3 (older) or on yours, ATF+4 transmission fluid. Dexron-Mercon added to the transmission will destabilize ATF+3 or 4 and cause excessive oxidation of the fluid which causes congealing (a thick gummy sludge).

This may be a tough one since you can't verify whats been done by others. If thoroughly flushed and the system free of gum and dirt, you will probably have a good working unit. Unfortunately, if a mistake was made and material has been pumped through the valvebody and other passages, it's possible the only remedy is complete disassembly and manual cleaning.

The "RE" series Dodge truck automatics are among the easiest to work on. If you don't need any major parts...other than a rebuild kit...a shop should be able to remove, disassemble, clean and reassemble for under $1200 US. If clutches are worn, etc., the cost will be more, of course. Newer versions have the improved solenoid shift valves (shift pack) and should be fine if cleaned correctly, although the factory does not recommend attempts to manually clean them. If a person doesn't know what thewy're doing I'd highly recommend not attempting to clean them, just replace the pack. The only issue found on the newer shift pack design is external leaking, but most have found that if they go 100,000 miles without leaking they'll probably go another 100K.

Best regards,
Dusty

renenadeau

Think you're right about it being a buzz rather than a grind. Right now the radiator has nothing to do with the transmission since it has been bypassed by the added transmission cooler. Guess that leaves the possibility of blocked lines in and around the pump. Thank you very much for your help and have a Merry Christmas.

gbach

Tex, I have a 99 Ram with a 5.9 liter and my neighbors both have 98 Rams with the 5.2 liter engines. (We live in a Chrysler town.) We have all encountered the same problem on damp days, especially when there has been a drastic change in temperature. The cure has been clean dry spark plug wires and ignition components. My neighbor uses an automotive electrical system spray on clean components, while I just cleaned everything and replaced the spark plug wires. It appears that the electrical system on this vehicle is sensitive to moisture and possibly engine gunk retains just enough moisture to cause trouble starting.

stacky

I have an 03 Ram 3500 HO TD with the six speed manual trans. Recently my speedometer started getting eratic. It sometimes jumps while Im sitting still. Seems like a sensor problem but I can't find any info on where this sensor may be. On my truck I don't think the speedometer runs off the rear diff. sensor. Any advise?

dustyk

Whether automatic or manual, the speed pulse is taken from the speed sensor in the rear differential.

I would suspect that sensor. It is not an uncommon problem on Dodge trucks. Check the electrical connections at that sensor as well. On older units the connector housing did not do a good job of keeping moisture out of the connector and the terminals get corroded.

Regards,
Dusty

stacky

The dealer also thought it was the sensor you described. He changed it and it had no effect. They contacted Chrysler and ran many tests. (Basically all Day while I waited) They finally have decided it is the ABS Module and have ordered one. They charged me nothing for today but want $500.00 for the module and labor. I don't know if thats a deal or not. I hope the module fixes it.

captainruss

I have now found there to be gear oil leaking from the end of the front axle tube along with my highway vibration??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? HELP PLEASE!

loquillo1320

How about these two. Everytime i hit a bump my radio goes out, i was checkin my fuses the other day and the radio went out and came back on, i tapped the fuse box and sure enough that was it. does it have a ground or somthing. the reason why i was checking my fuses was, i installed aftermarket halo lights with angel eyes and it plugged into the factory headlight harness buuuut, the little angel eyes had there own wires. The instructions said connect the black wire to the negative on the signal light. I did that but halos didnt work, i started inverting wires untill one time i turned them on and heard like a lil click (so i think) not 100% sure that was the cause. my front marker went out, my rear marker went out and even the lic. plate light on that side went out. but my turn signals work and break lights. i checked my fuses they all good. also my instrument panel would read "lamp out", but it dosent, someone told me to resent my computer. What do u think?

renenadeau

I have checked back with the transmission specialist who tells me he has replaced the transmission oil with Dexron 4, a synthetic fluid. ATF 4 and Dexron 4,are they one and the same? Thanks again

dmeents1

Dusty could you offer any suggestions to msg #2646

kolohe1

I have a 1995 dodge ram2500 4x4 with a V10. The ignition module is bad, and I can't find one. The dodge dealership says they were recalled and can't help. Napa, VIP, CarQuest etc. can't find one. I have called so many junk yards I have lost count. I have been online at e-bay, google, summitracing, autotrucktoys, RockAuto etc. Standard Motor Parts part#LX-751 is the cross but they were recalled and don't make or have anymore. The truck is dead in it's tracks. HELP!

dustyk

They are absolutely NOT the same. ATF+4 has a patented friction modifier package that is not found in Dexron-Mercon of any flavor. Dexron-Mercon is a lot cheaper, of course, and that's why independent shops like to use it. It will work for a while but you'll be back to him when the transmission fails again and he'll tell you that the problem is Dodge truck transmissions.

This should be corrected immediately as permanent damage could result.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

If it starts and runs fine for a short time, has good idle quality, and the fuel and ignition systems have been checked and verifiede, I'd suspect a bad catalytic converter.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk

The Antilock Brake Controller (CAB) could be the cause of your problem. The sensor signal is first sent to terminals C1-1 and C1-8 of the CAB. The signal is processed internally then fed to the PCM where the speedometer signal feed is produced.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

Sounds like the source of your vibration might be the axle bearing on the leaking side.

Regards,
Dusty

captainruss

Thanks for the info....are you saying the front wheel bearing on that side or the carrier bearing inside the diff. Or am I missing something here. Thanks

dmeents1

The cat has been punched out. the only thing noticible is the fuel pump is pulsing on idle Is this normal? could the EGR valve cause this problem. It idles rough when problem starts and let cool down 30minutes and starts fine again.

lbjkj

Just got my truck back from dealer. Had to have a new pinion seal installed. Dealer flashed my truck and told me my abs module was defective and the wiring harness is defective. The truck only has 40,000 miles. Can someone enlighten me as to where the module is located and maybe a bypass so the light will shut off. They told me a thousand dollars would get me a new one, but what is the use if it is just going to burn out so fast. What would make it burn out so fast. PS I have had other ele. problems.

scubaman

I am thinking my problem is like yours. My headlights will go off and on after some warm up. At first I thought it was the heat ductmjust warming up the headlight switch but now I don't. Just recently the radio switched from FM to tape at the same time the headlights started doing their thing. If I turn the headlights off and just use the fog lights then turn the headlights back on the problem goes away for a short time. Don't know if its the headlights or the switch. Did you have any of these problems??

lbjkj

I have been having ele problems but not with my head lights, I think i read a couple post back a guy replacing either the head light switch or the dimmer switch, he had kinda the same problem as you. I think i have my ele problems narrowed down to either my connections for my trailer or abs module, since the abs burned out i really havent had any problems. so good luck Ps what kind of options do you have with your truck, mine is fully loaded, leather, pwseat,pwbrake and gas pedal,seat warmer,infinity sound, Just wondering my friend has the plain jane version of my truck and no problems at all and he has 80,000 miles on it. Wondering if these problems are related to the trucks with all the options? Or certian componets!

ramguy79

I have a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 My transmission will not go into reverse. I have drive and overdrive, but no reverse I order a n overhaul kit and the manual. I replace the direct clutch pack and still no reverse. Is there anyone that can assist me on this?

tom250ibs

2003 2500 My well.... the banks headlights,parking lights, interior lights will flicker after startup but not as serious as yours. What does the dealer say?

tom250ibs

I own straight drive but i just rebuilt chevy 350t trans. beens you had overhaul kit why not put all the clutches in with the gaskets? I lost forward gears it was forward clutch pack burnt up.(I would think ) the reverse clutch pack would be what i would look at assumingthe oil smells burnt or the filter has bits of material on it. What manual did you use?

dustyk

Yes, I mean't the outer axle bearing.

Regards,
Dusty