I am currently looking at either a 98 ram sport 4x4 short bed with the 5.2 v-8 70,000miles or a 99 dakota sport 4x4 with 47,000 and the 3.9 v-6. I know this is a broad question and will really be down to me driving etc. but from a general stand point would the dakota or ram be better? I will doing some off roading like in corn fields while hunting and some trails. I live in illinois and will have snow. Is one more reliabe then the other? The price will be close to each other so that is not really a concern. O yes they r both automatics. This will be my first bought car and jst want to get something that will last thanx for any info!!! Adam S. oo yeah I will have the ram wednesday night to look and drive.. is there anything I should look for trouble wise?
Dealer replaced the Central Timer Module, aka Front Control Module for $380. Said the problem is fixed. I take delivery of my truck tonight. Hopefully no more problems.
"Any time I hit a severe bump in the road the front of my 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 starts shaking and is very hard to control." I am also having the same problem on my 1996 Ram 2500! I had a bad ball joint and a leaky damper but that did not fix it. Its horrid! I cant drive over 65mph without fear of this happening. When it does I have to pull over and slow way down. Any help would be appreciated
Well, hubby's truck has finally done it, it broke something, lol......that's rare. Anyway, seems like in the past week or two the truck has been extremely hard starting warm or cold. Acts like it isn't spinning the starter fast enough to engage it. Battery is new so I think that can be ruled out. Any ideas?
Has the weather been getting colder in the last couple of weeks? Does it need thinner oil perhaps? Could also be a tired starter............bad ground..........glowplug problem?
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4X4 with the automatic transmission. My tranny just went out at 43000 miles. I would recommend looking around for info on other people that have had problems with Dodge transmissions before you buy your Dodge.
Has the weather been getting colder in the last couple of weeks? Does it need thinner oil perhaps? Could also be a tired starter............bad ground..........glowplug problem?
Let's see, yes the weather is cold, however, that's not the issue. Even when the engine heaters are plugged in the truck is hard to start. It has 0W-30 synthetic in it so oil can be ruled out, its a gas engine, so no glow plugs.
We are guessing the starter, but wouldn't it grind rather than turn over slow? That's the whole issue, the starter doesn't spin fast enough to engage the engine, but I've never seen a starter go that way before, they alway start grinding. Hmmmm.....
The truck has approx 42k miles on it (yes, that's really 42,000 lol). :P
The starter will grind if there's a problem with the drive gear or bearings, but it won't make any audible sounds of distress if the windings, armature, or brushes are failing.
The other point you didn't address was a bad ground. That can cause a voltage drop which will give your symptoms. Were the connections cleaned when you fitted the new battery?
To our mechanic tomorrow, he's right next to where I work. He said he'll check the battery and all the connections, also mentioned checking for a bad ground along with checking the starter. I just hope that I can get the old girl started when its time to leave work at 11 pm! :surprise:
Found the problem. When the yahoo attached the hitch to the frame, he squished a group of wires between the frame and the hitch. I had to unscrew the hitch and wrap each with individually, replace a few blown fuses, and everything worked great.
As noted in the post box and our Rules of the Road - http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/rulesoftheroad.html - we highly discourage posts with email addresses and/or requesting off-list emails. It benefits everyone when information is shared here in the Forums... people can often find answers to their questions just by reading previous posts. Posting your email address also leaves you vulnerable to those who will use it maliciously.
Yet another victim of the well-documented Death Wobble.
Things to check when DW is occurring: - steering stabilizer - tie rod ends - ball joints (all of them) - track bar - tire balance - shock mounts - caster angle
Any of the above can cause DW. It is usually solved by a suspension specialist... Moog parts seem to do better than Mopar.
I think our mechanic is a wizard......lol, he always amazes me. He checked the truck over, checked the entire charging/starting/electrical system and found a bad battery connection.......fixed it and the truck is fine. Starts right up just like old times. He said he would charge me $40, but when he stopped by my work to pick up the money he wouldn't take more than $20, said it was too easy of a fix.
Here we were staring down the barrel of a $300 repair and he fixes it for $20.......talk about GOOD NEWS!!
2005 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4, 5.7 hemi, auto trans. Squealing noise coming from under vehicle when engine is warn. Sounds like slipping belt but is not. noise is evident weather trans is in gear or not. when vehicle was on lift noise appeared to be coming from between where the engine and trans join. dealership claims this sound is normal and can find nothing wrong. any help or comments are welcome.
I own an 02 1500 w/the 4.7 v8. My problem is cold start engine clatter. The truck only has 34k,on it. The clatter sounds like valves or lifters. The noise lasts about 30 seconds and is worse as the temperature outside drops. Is this something I should be concerned with? I am using the recommended 5w30 oil. Anyone else experiencing this? thanks.......
I'm having a circuit problem with interior lights not working and have checked all the fuses in both fuse blocks. My mechanic made a comment that there are three blocks on this vehicle. The dodge dealship says there are only two. I can't get into my mechanic for day or so. So I guess the question is if there are three where are they located as the two locations are fairly obvious.
Well im not sure about Dodge, but I do know that GM has the same issue with their trucks. The piston to cylinder wall clearance is too great when it is cold. The heat causes expansion and the noise goes away. GM issued at Technical bulletin saying this is normal with no fix. Like I said, Im not sure if Dodge has the same problem.
hey guys im pretty new to the forum, but i think i can help yall out a lil. its like this, my bro-in-law is the General Manager at a 5 star chrysler dealership here in oklahoma. so if anyone has any questions about how much somehtin really is(invoice) or service, anything like that i can definetly help out so hit me if yall have any questions. i can find out exactly how much mark up any dodge chrysler, or jeep vehicle. cuz my bor-in-law controls the dealership, but my sister controls my bor-in-law.haha hit me if u have any questions
If memory serves me, I think you will find it on the Driver Side of the block just under the Engine Controller. Just in front of the motor mounts. The other place I've remember is same side just under the cylinder head behind the fuel filter housing area
The problem is in the axel hub bearing. This bearing goes bad and usually begins to cause this vibration while driving the hwy at 70-80 mph. FIX this it's bad. I am in the process of repairing mine. The only problem I have now run into is the axel hub nut is near impossible to remove. If you have already found this problem and did this work yourself could you possibly let me know how you lossened this nut. Thank you in advance.
I have ran into some difficulty changing my rear drum breaks on my 1998 dodge ram 1500. I have been looking all over the internet to try and find out what it is i am missing. I was wondering if you could tell me what Iam doing wrong so i can fix this break problem. thanks, Eric
I have a 98 ram 3500 with the 5.9 diesel and i am having trouble with the dash guages. It started with the fuel guage pegging to empty. This went on for over two years then the oil pressure guage started pegging '0'. this was intermitentand I know the pressure was ok. Then the tach became irrattic, running up to 4000 rpms. When this would occur the fuel and the oil read properly. The next step he tach when cold pegs '0' rpms and the dash lights up like a christmas tree with check guages wait to start, the fuel warning light, and the voltage guage dropping and this one is correct. If I return the engine to idle it will correct then reoccur until warm. I have talked to 2 mechanics and they say it's the instrument cluster and will cost between $850.00 and $1200.00. i don't beleive this is the correction as when one goes down the others work. I believe i has to do with grounds or maybe even the computer. If they change the clustere and that doesn't fix it they say oh well let's try this at addditional costs. does anyone out htere know where the problem lies? please advise.
hello, i just recently purchased an 01 ram and went to the dealer to get the list of options it came with. it did not have keyless entry. it does have power locks though. they gave me a part # for the keyless entry kit. i purchased one on ebay new in the box and it has no instructions for install. all it looks like is that you need to attach a few wires into a connector, but no instructions where. if anyone can help i appreciate it. i am very mechanically inclined and would rather not pay the dealership to hook up a few wires. thanks art
Hi im new here...im 16 and i just got this 1995 ram 1500 v6 3.9 liter and i love it. Its big and still gets better gas mileage than the v8. Anyways...ill get to my point. The truck worked fine for about the first three or four months, ran like a dream. Then lately when i push the pedal down hard it will climb to about 40 mph and redline the rpms without changing gears. I bypassed the problem by leting off the gas, a little, and then it changed gears. I figure i just need to get the tranny flushed and a new filter but today when i was on the highway i steped on the gas hard to merge. The rpm's jumped to about 5000 like they always do but then something very stange and scary happened. Instead of getting a boost of speed the speedometer didnt climb at all!!! It just coasted with very high rpm's and when i let off the gas it started accellerating (slowly) again once the rpms had gone down.This continued for the rest of the day and seems to be permanent. The problem only seems to be with the higher RPM's and if i step on the gas slowly from a stop it works smoothly. I love this truck to death is there anyone out there with any help. It is much appreciated...thanks...Thess
I have a 2005 dodge ram diesel 4x4. It makes a whistle/whining noise around 20-30mph. I know what the turbo sounds like as it spools up and spools down. This sounds completely different. It's a lot louder and sounds like it's coming from under the truck. Dealer says they can't find any abnormal sounds. I think I notice it more when it's cold...but then again it's been cold a lot here lately.
Say I'm driving down the road at 40 and let off the gas. When it reaches the 20-30 mph range it will make the noise. That's why I don't think it's the turbo...plus it doesn't sound like the turbo I'm used to hearing.
Its sounds like you may have a bad trans governor solenoid and pressure transducer. They are in the transmission valve body. Not really hard to change but can be tricky.
HI GUYS IVE JUST ABOUT PLAYED MY LAST CARD ON FIGURING OUT WHATS UP WITH MY 1997 DODGE RAM PIK UP. THIS IS HOW IT GOES, LAST WEEK LITTLE BROTHER TOOK MY TRUCK AND NOT KNOWING I HAD MY BATTERY LOOSE, NOT TIED DOWN. IT FELL WHILE CORNERING AND ATE UP THE BELT. AND CAUSE SOME KIND OF SHORT CIRCUIT BECAUSE ONE OF THE GOUNDS TO THE BATT TERMINAL WERE RIPPED OFF. NOW THE STARTER CRAPED OUT(REPLACED IT) HAD THE ALTERNATOR CHEKED ITS OK. BUT I CHEKED THE CABLE THAT POWERS THE ALTERNATOR AND IT HAS NO JUICE. IS MY ECU SCREWED? OR WHAT CAN IT BE ???? :sick: :confuse: :mad:
is it expensive? (i am young so im on a budget)-also if i get this fixed i would like to increase my acceleration/torque/horse power, what is the best and most cost efficient way to do that?
I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensor and that fixed the problem until I hit about 55 and now there is a distinct clicking sound when I brake... what gives????
I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensor and that fixed the problem until I hit about 55 and now there is a distinct clicking sound when I brake... what gives????
It's hard to say from a distance, but if I had to take a guess I'd say it was related to the speed sensor (if that was the last thing you worked on).
It's also hard to resist referring you back to an earlier response to this problem.
"Not meaning to be smart here, but if you're not sure where the differential is you might be better off farming the job out to a local shop. It's a quick and easy job so it shouldn't be costly for labor, and it's sure to be cheaper than buying a second sensor if you damage the first one because of a faulty installation. You might also want to pick up a cheap Haynes or Chiltons manual, which will give you a good grounding in the basics."
Try pulling the new sensor and see if it's been making contact. The clearance between it and the reluctor should be minimal, but not so small that thermal expansion brings them into contact.
convertsilvia - It is extremely poor manners to post with your caps lock on. It makes it difficult to read and, in internet use, is percieved as shouting. Additionally, a spell and grammar check would be helpful.
My last post was in caps, and didn't realize it was rude to do so. So I apologize. Well, my original question was: my alternator is getting no juice. the alternator has checked but the cable that supplies the current has no juice runnin through it. What can be causing this??? THANX!
My 1996 Ram 3/4 Ton Diesel does not idle well when cold. It almost wants to die. Must keep my foot on the accelerator for a couple minutes. I should be cleaning windshield at this time! Unlike a gas engine with a choke, is there a setup for a diesel engine cold idle? If I plug the trucks engine heater in for a couple hours it idles fine. At a temperature above freezing ~36F~ I really should not have to manually "step on the gas" to keep it from stalling? Any ideas?
I guess my problem is "OKeh" according to number 3 of the following link??: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-06-98.htm Although it does not state HOW LONG one must keep the throttle "partially depressed after engaging the starter"
I would check the battery connections, the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell, and the level of electrolyte. Since the battery was knocked over, perhaps it lost too much electrolyte to function. I would then check your belts again. If this all checks OK, test battery voltage with the engine off (should be 12V) and then again after starting it up (should be 14-15V). If it does not check at that I suspect the voltage regulator, which is inside the PCM. That would be a dealer only service item. Good luck.
Hi guys new here and I need some help. I am the proud owner of a 2002 Ram 2500 4wd 5.9 v-8. This truck has beed to 3 dealers and not one can tell me the problem. Around town it drives great and is a pleasure to drive but on the highway I get a vibration through the cab between 61 and 80 MPH. The dealer has replaced the transmission 17000 miles ago, the front and rear driveshafts and a new transfer case about 500 miles ago. Just did a tune up, new tires and alignment but to no avail. Just keeps getting worse. Any help is much appreciated.
Hi all, I have an 01 Ram 1500 with the 5.9, 4x4, extended cab short bed. My issue, this usually happens when it gets colder and doesn't happen when I am towing thank goodness, when driving especially on the highway when the torque converter should go into lockup it doesn't seem to go fully in and my RPM's will jump about 3-500 if I disengage the OD with the switch then a minute later re-engage it she will go right into lockup and shift fine. I did put it on a transmission computer and the tranny is tight and the torque converter will stall the motor when kept in lockup while slowing down so that is fine. One dealership told me the shift point needs raised to 48-50 MPH for lockup but since it didn't do it on them they couldn't do it. Any suggestions are gratefully accepted!! On lighter note I had a 98 Ford F250 Power stroke and after owning that and its issues I LOVE the way my dodge handles, tows and carries a load, Will NOT be going back to Ford from this point, thanks all again for any help------Chuck
Comments
I am also having the same problem on my 1996 Ram 2500! I had a bad ball joint and a leaky damper but that did not fix it. Its horrid! I cant drive over 65mph without fear of this happening. When it does I have to pull over and slow way down. Any help would be appreciated
Let's see, yes the weather is cold, however, that's not the issue. Even when the engine heaters are plugged in the truck is hard to start. It has 0W-30 synthetic in it so oil can be ruled out, its a gas engine, so no glow plugs.
We are guessing the starter, but wouldn't it grind rather than turn over slow? That's the whole issue, the starter doesn't spin fast enough to engage the engine, but I've never seen a starter go that way before, they alway start grinding. Hmmmm.....
The truck has approx 42k miles on it (yes, that's really 42,000 lol). :P
The other point you didn't address was a bad ground. That can cause a voltage drop which will give your symptoms. Were the connections cleaned when you fitted the new battery?
Thanks , Brian
Thanks
Frankie
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
Things to check when DW is occurring:
- steering stabilizer
- tie rod ends
- ball joints (all of them)
- track bar
- tire balance
- shock mounts
- caster angle
Any of the above can cause DW. It is usually solved by a suspension specialist... Moog parts seem to do better than Mopar.
kcram - Pickups Host
Here we were staring down the barrel of a $300 repair and he fixes it for $20.......talk about GOOD NEWS!!
Squealing noise coming from under vehicle when engine is warn. Sounds like slipping belt but is not. noise is evident weather trans is in gear or not. when vehicle was on lift noise appeared to be coming from between where the engine and trans join. dealership claims this sound is normal and can find nothing wrong. any help or comments are welcome.
No, hubby had the new battery installed at a battery shop several months ago. The truck was fine up until 2-3 weeks ago, then it started acting funny.
I to am unable to lossen the hub axel nut on my 97 ram 1500. Did you have any success, and if so how?????
Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
thanks,
Eric
I have a 2005 dodge ram diesel 4x4. It makes a whistle/whining noise around 20-30mph. I know what the turbo sounds like as it spools up and spools down. This sounds completely different. It's a lot louder and sounds like it's coming from under the truck. Dealer says they can't find any abnormal sounds. I think I notice it more when it's cold...but then again it's been cold a lot here lately.
Say I'm driving down the road at 40 and let off the gas. When it reaches the 20-30 mph range it will make the noise. That's why I don't think it's the turbo...plus it doesn't sound like the turbo I'm used to hearing.
-Daniel
It's hard to say from a distance, but if I had to take a guess I'd say it was related to the speed sensor (if that was the last thing you worked on).
It's also hard to resist referring you back to an earlier response to this problem.
"Not meaning to be smart here, but if you're not sure where the differential is you might be better off farming the job out to a local shop. It's a quick and easy job so it shouldn't be costly for labor, and it's sure to be cheaper than buying a second sensor if you damage the first one because of a faulty installation. You might also want to pick up a cheap Haynes or Chiltons manual, which will give you a good grounding in the basics."
Try pulling the new sensor and see if it's been making contact. The clearance between it and the reluctor should be minimal, but not so small that thermal expansion brings them into contact.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-06-98.htm
Although it does not state HOW LONG one must keep the throttle "partially depressed after engaging the starter"