Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

joemulroney

Hey everyone- I just bought a used 1998 Dodge Ram 1500. It's a great truck, but when I drove it for the first time at night I noticed that neither the dome lights or the map lights were working. So I replaced the bulbs and the lights came on.For some reason the dome lights and the map lights won't turn off.The dome light is not affected by the knob. The map lights are not affected by clicking them on and off. The rest of the story is the truck came with a topper that I removed. This topper had a wire running from its brake light to a group of wires just above the brake pedal. So I disconnected the cable hoping it would fix the problem, but no luck. I'm lost here! Any ideas what this could be?

fandbeans

The first thing you do when you buy a dodge is to junk the battery. Have 2004 Hemi, had NO BUS, no gauges, all lights on, and stalling. Computers shut down, replaced battery with non dodge unit, relearned idle, worked perfectly afterwards and no more problems. Solved mine. Chrysler batteries suck.

fandbeans

Get the best battery you can, junk the o.e. battery. Relearn idle, fixes most problems. Chrysler has the worst batteries, Delco is next in line. :P

sirramitalot

I would recommend checking connections at the sending unit for each item. I recently had a similar problem on my Wrangler, Cleaned connection on oil press. sending unit, worked great.

thartley

I'm baffled by this problem and I would really appreciate some assistance. My Dodge RAM 1500 runs perfectly most of the time but then it will stall completely while running as if it is getting no fuel. If you let the vehicle sit and cool down for about 30 minutes it will then start up and run perfectly again. I had it pulled to a repair shop during one of these episodes but by the time it got to the shop it was fine and refused to have the problem again. They placed it on a diagnostic machine etc. ran the engine for hours and it didnot reoccur. However, two weeks later it did the same thing. It also won't crank now if it is cold outside. Any ideas?

marsha7

When you say you bought new tires, I assume they were balanced...BUT, there are multiple ways to balance... static bubble, Hunter (there are others, too) high speed balance, and what is called road force balance...road force brings a roller up to the tire while spinning to simulate the deformation that happens when the weight of the car is on the tire...sometimes, the balancing difference between regular high speed and road force is like night and day...good tire shops have both, consider getting road force balance...

Also, you may want to have those new drive shafts checked for balance...they usually have weights welded to the shaft for balance, but sometimes they are a little off, and the drive shaft vibration can drive you nuts...I assume that a high performance shop would have the eqpt necessary to balance a drive shaft, but worth a try...

Lastly, check your universal joints/CV joints...many times a new drive shaft will be installed on old u-joints, and if the u-joints are at that magic point of wear, you will get high speed vibration...

Just a few random thoughts... :shades:

tom250ibs

5.9l with the edge product . o.k it just started this problem twice today ihop in the truck fire it up an go probably 100ft. orso and she dies . i can cut swith off and on again it will fire up . both times is with module on 5setting.i went to local parts store ask if they would check the code (check engine light was on ) the frist time the guy said it did not show any thing (so he reset it) the secound time i believe another man said injector over load. if it has been running alittle while it want do it(shut off) it has fairly clean filter 4inch exhaust no muffler no other mods.

mac24

5.9l with the edge product .................both times is with module on 5setting

What does 'Edge' technical support have to say?

captainruss

Thanks for the reply.. Yes the tires were balanced, how I don't know. However the last time the dealer had the truck they tried rotating the tires and it only made the problem worse.. Then I bought yet another set of tires because the dealer told me it was the tires yet the problem still exists. All the U-joints on the drive shafts are good. I have however found a very very slight amount of play in the axles U-joints at the front hubs. But the dealer said this was not the problem. They say it is a high frequency vibration and noise like that of a bad motor mount of transmount but they're all in excellent shape. I'm stumped.

convertsilvia

Hey thanx for replying, I really appreciate it. I bought a new battery. and it still doesn't work. I think it's the voltage regulator but I dont know where the pcm is. If you got a clue pls let me know where i can find it. Thanx! :shades: :sick:

mickeym1

I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 Replaced heater core Replaced thermostat(195 degree) Heater blowing just barley warm air Took heater box out an manualy moved the doors open held my finger over the vacuum inlets an doors stayed open How can you check to see if the doors are opening with the heater box in place Temp gauge is about 195 at all times Put cardboard in front of radiator went down the road temp hand never changed HELP!!

tom250ibs

Well there just open monday-friday.I`m going to call i the morning. (I`ll let you know) The good news irun it last night threw paces an no problems. I believe it is from just starting up not a chance to setup.

pundlin

I am looking at buying a well used 96' 2500 with the cummins and a manual trans. The truck has 207,000 and runs very strong. However there is a pretty good oil leak that shows from the underside. The top is real clean. I noticed while shopping through the Truck Trader magazines over the past few months that a lot of the cummins diesels claim they have a new oil pan gasket. Is that a common problem or is this a much larger problem? The current owner has 6 dodge trucks and claims that all of them do it and it wouldn't be a "real" diesel if it didn't leak. Sounds like B.S to me

thorpe11

I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L LD with exactly the same problem as you have described. I checked with a code reader and there were no codes in the vehicle's computer. It idles fine and then just stops dead and would not restart. After an hour or so it started back up fine. The first time it happened was in August. The next time was yesterday. After I got it started again I drove it for 10 miles or so with no problem. This morning again it would not start. I'm not sure what to do at this point because if I take it to a shop while it is working OK they will find something to replace, but I doubt it will fix the problem.

tom250ibs

I called tech. support. I did not write code number down before i had the parts store erase it.So i`m pretty much with out a real answer. I haven`t started up with setting on#5 again. The guy told me there have been several of the same model to do almost same thing.

tallertom

If there is no power to the alternator the next step back is the main relay located on the fender well on the drivers side. It is fastened in by a small nut on each end. This is a common weak link . I blew mine by shorting it out with a large pair of channel locks when changing my oil filter. Its the one with the purple plastic on it.

Tom

richkaminski

Hey folks. I have a Dodge 1996 2500 HD pickup and its time for ball joints and an idler arm I am told from a local alignment place at a fee of $1,250.00 installed. I am attempting to order the parts from a nation wide auto parts chain and do it myself but they are asking me what mm the idler arm is which I have not a clue and my local Dodge dealer will not part with that information for some reason. The part from them costs $299.99 and at the Auto parts store it is $41.00 so I am attempting to find the mm size prior to removing it to order as it is not a stock part and Dodge will not part with the information for less then $258.99. There shows to be 3 different size mm idler arms. 14.5, 15, and 15.5. Since it is a order part I can't send it back once I get it so does anyone out there know what mm size it is?

Thanks,

Rich

mac24

The guy told me there have been several of the same model to do almost same thing

That's good news, it means your problem is not unique and they'll probably put some effort into solving it. May be worth starting on setting #5 once more in order to get the code.

You might as well do it at the parts store!

eeor3

I have a 2000 1500 quad cab 4x4. Which I purchased new with 50 miles on it. I serviced the transmission at all recommended intervals at a Dodge dealer. At 65k miles my tranny started slipping. I took it to a quick lube place and had the tranny serviced. They actually dropped the pan and flushed it out. The pan was completely full of gray matter. after this the slipping let up a bit. I then added Slick50 high mileage transmission additive. After this the slipping has gone away totally and it shifts better than it ever has. Never let anyone flush out your transmission without dropping the pan and installing a new filter.

dwa3

I have a 2002 Ram 1500 4x4, Quad Cab, all that good stuff.. i bought it used and have had it for almost a year now.. my latest trouble with it i believe has something to do with the security system. I went to get in it and it wouldn't unlock by my clicker thing, so i unlocked the door with the key. When i opened the door i noticed i have no overhead lights. It starts and i can drive it, i have headlights, tail lights, brake lights, my radio works, and my power windows work. but thats it. My entire cluster is dead, the switch to turn my headlights, overhead, cargo, the radio and cruise control buttons on the steering wheel,horn, turn signals, hazards, the overhead computer, all of that does not work.. but the red security light is on constant... i have checked fuses, disconnected the battery, even called the dealership and they didn't know what it was. this is the latest in a list of problems i have had.... a friend mentioned something about a valet lockout....anyone have any ideas????

dirtdawg

Hey got a 2000 2500 diesel. transfer shifts fine, but no light on dash and front end not engaging. Have replaced vacuum switch on transfer case already. Any suggestions???

tom250ibs

are you sure it`s leaking from the pan gasket? there is a breather pipe next to the pan. I have several (4) 2 cummins 2 detroits with a good amount of hours they will start blowing oil out the pipe. cummins claims that you can get 350,000 miles on 5.9l before overhal. My big truck has 300 bigcam it has right at 700,000 miles it leaks out pipe alittle and around the pan. But with 200,000 the truck you are looking at probably should leak. Caution if it is a fleet truck alot of noncaring people may have driven the truck (as in extremely rough drivers) MY advice check condition of how it sounds /drives/compared to another one the same. GOOD LUCK!!!

eekdahl61

i'm having similiar problem. got heater box out now (not a trival task). dodge can't find anything wrong with heater box and various doors. putting in new heater core but old one appears to be ok...any update on your problem?

drowlands

Have you tried the U joints to the wheel hubs? i had a friend with the same problem and they changed out the u joints to the front wheels. can you feel a vibration throught the steering wheel?

tallertom

Hi I have a 98.5 dodge diesel 4x4 with auto tranny. When driving it home tonight I noticed the red light on the computer hookup outlet that is located just above the gas peddle had the red light blinking on and off. It would stay on about 15 seconds and go out for about that length of time. When I pulled it in the garage I tried to start it again and the lights on the dash would go out. As soon as I let off the key the lights and radio would come back on. I have had it hard to start a couple times before and slamming the door would get it to start. I am guessing there is a loose connection somewhere and the jar from closing the door would create a good enough connection to allow it to start. battery connections look good.
All ideas appreciated.

Tom

feehan

Here is my story. I leased a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 on Boxing Day, 2004. So far I have went through 4 sets of brakes, 2 front tie rod ends, 10 air filters, and now,... the engine is gone! None of this is covered under DaimlerChryslers warranty! The reason for the engine not being covered is because of dust in the engine. One Dodge employee is saying that the use of the FRAM air filters is what caused this problem and that the use of these FRAM filters void all Dodge warranty's. I have had all regular scheduled maintenance completed by professionals at Minute Lube and Dodge dealerships. Other Dodge representatives said that any filter can be used as long as the maintenance is performed regularly. Today they even said first that the fuel is dirty and then said that an aftermarket air intake system is causing the problems. All parts on the truck are manufacturer parts that were on the truck when I bought it new from them! I could go on and on for pages on this one. They will not even give me a warranty book to look at seeing how mine has disappeared from my truck since I brought it to the dealership. If anyone can help me, please let me know.
$60K out!

marsha7

I just thought of something else, since we are grasping at straws...

It is possible that you have a defective tire, where the treads have separated internally and it only shows up at high speed...

You mentioned that rotating the tires made it worse...if it was drive train, then tire rotation would not affect it...but, if a defective tire was moved from the front to the back, it could cause the entire vehicle to shake and shimmy...

A bad front tire causes the stering wheel to shimmy, but usually not the whole car...if a rear wheel is bad, the entire car shakes like a rocket taking off a launch pad...

I believe that a road force balance may reveal bad treads or other defects, because the roller against the tire will simulate the compression of the weight of the car, and may expose bad treads that separated internally...a standard hi speed balance will never reveal this...

Consider it seriously...it sounds like a possible tire problem due to worsening by tire rotation...may even be combined with a bent wheel...look carefully at this possibility...

etech1

Hi Rich
I too have a 96 Dodge Ram 2500, just went and purchased new rims and tires. I wanted a wheel alignment done as well but... they would not do without replacing TIE ROD END, OUTER TIE ROD END, UPPER & LOWER BALL JOINTS (KAL-TIRE) CANADA wants $1,429 to do the job. Shopped around and found that Canadian Tire here will do it for $1,064. As for your steering part No.'s here is a link that gives the info:
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,MOOG,STEERING

schmedly

I recommend speaking with a lawyer. Have all your paperwork organized in advance and a written time line of events.

db69

I hate to be a leach but,

Do you have any tips on getting to the heater box? Does the air bag have to come out? I am not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated!

mignweld

I have had 3 dodge 3500 all had bad vibrations my new 05 has bad vibrations at dif speeds and loads. 03 was the worst. The problem is in the drive line.( of coarse thats if you have already been thru all the bull of tire balance rotation,ect... I've been there and this time in my 05 3500 dully a bad shudder at take off and a real bad jumping with an empty trl at 35 mph and loaded at 55.I am sure that the 02 is no exception to the rule :sick:

mignweld

is your heater core leaking? If not it doesn't sound like a problem there its your level of coolant in your radiator or your thermostat not oping all the way. just because the temp may read nornal doesn't mean that the right amount of water is flowing to your heater coil.

eekdahl61

here's the history 1) have a 98 dodge ram, 5.2 v8,4x4 with A/C. 2)jan of 05 (during cold snap) heater output was next to nothing - nothing fixed or repaired prior to problem. when outside temp was above freezing, worked great. engine temp gague showed 200 degrees. 3)replaced thermostat (195 degree) (cheap repair hoping it was somehow stuck partially open,put cardboard in front of radiator - no help. 4) took to dodge dealer - some $200 later (they checked engine temp, fluid levels,pulled heater blower fan,etc and then they said something must be broked inside the heater box (broken air deflector or whatever), estimate to repair $1000.00 (8 hrs of labor to pull dash to get to heater box!!!! I was born @ night but not last night..I purchased a repair book from local parts store, didn't get around to working on until 2 weeks ago. Pulled dash (took some 6 hrs, takes 2x people on final steps), pulled heater box/heater core and everything looked ok to me. Took heater box to dodge dealer,they back peddled saying they didn't see anything wrong either (their computer log from prior service stated the heater box was broken inside). they back flushed heater core and it had good flow, 1) 1st mechanic said header core was ok, 2) 2nd mechanic said he would replace heater core because it's to much work to pull dash again so replace it now when everything is apart.. i put in new heater core ($240 - couldn't find an oem heater core) , put everything back together (only took 2 hrs - you get smarter once you take things apart). at this time i don't know if the heater is any better or not (truck still in my garage waiting final put back together). all the vacumn actuators are working properly. fyi, heater plumbing has nothing to do with the thermostat, thermostat in inline with radiator, not heater...

eastontowing

I have a 95 Dodge Ram. Sometimes fourth gear works, sometimes it don't. I had this problem once before, the transmission temp light would come on and no fourth gear. This time I have no temp light on and I have no fourth gear. I know a small amount about automatic transmissions. It has a three wire sensor on the rear section. One has no power, even when the transmission does go into fourth gear or when it doesn't. One is a ground, and the other has aproximatly 8 volts of power to it at all times, including when the key is on and the truck is not running. This problem comes and goes, somedays the transmission works fine, and somedays it has no fourth gear. I have added a second ground to the black wire in this harness, and I have also given the low voltage wire 12 volts. It doesn't affect it, however the third wire, when tested with power or ground applied, I lose the spedometer. Any help would be unbelievably appreciated!!
Thanks!!

jerryx

I have an 01 RAM 2500 with the same problem. I get a TPS code when I turn on the AC. Also, the cruise control stopped working. Wondering if you found the cause?

arrie

Just for info for all owners of around '95 Ram pick-ups.

I have had this small but annoying problem with the plastic heater control knobs breaking off. I have replaced them 5 or 6 times with dealer parts but they just keep breaking. And I don't think there is any abnormal force required when turning the knobs. I think there is some sort of design flaw involved.

Just a week ago I found replacement knobs that are not Dodge parts and are a perfect fit. These knobs seem to be built much better and stronger and I found them at AutoZone. They were sold as a pair for about $7 and were marked as parts for a Honda.

Knobs fit in just like they were made for my Ram. Just a slight shade difference on black but look like original parts.

Arrie

mignweld

Strange...Very strange...1. If temp gauage reads 200 then card board is a useless item..I have a tractor trailer with a cold running cat engine card board /reducing airflow method works well when the engine does not want to reach the opperating temp..But you said you replaced the therm to a 195? even tho the temp was at norm. My dodge runs normal at the 200 mark also w/ plenty of heat even 5 min after start w/ a cummins.
is there a valve between the heater hose and the core?- :confuse: you would think that circulation of water to the core would cause this problem.Have you put a flow meter on the in coming side of the core to see how much flow you have? But you covered flushing Let me know what you find out.

drowlands

i have a bugging power problem with my 02 5.9L diesel automatic. sometimes when driving (usually on an extended drive) the truck will lose power requiring me to depress the accelerator to change up a gear or to let up off the gas, this is more common pulling a load and frustrating. 1 week ago i changed out the fuel lift pump as it was only pulling 16 oz instead of 44oz and i drove it 2 days later on an extended trip and it slightly did the same thing.the dealership could not find the problem and of course when they drive it, it does not do it. can anyone help me?
thanks

96dodge

my problem is my truck will start cold and when it warms up you have to turn the motor over and it will eventually will start, when it does it takes a few seconds to catch its breath, its like it is flooding itself out , when it clears out you can drive it as long as you want to it will never miss a beat

ramtastic

My heater/ac selector switch will not shift from dash vents at all, no matter which position I choose on the switch. I believe this is a vacuum controlled event, but for some reason I cannot locate this so-called vacuum line that people keep trying to explain. If anyone can help and also possibly show me with a diagram as to where this device is i would really appreciate it.
I live in cold weather state (MI) and really need to get this to shift to defrost mode (windshield) to prevent a possible accident..lol..help!

thanks, Joe

fsuperduty

Hi,

I have the same problem on my 1999 B3500 Ram Van, but the heat only comes out of the defroster and will not come out of the vents no matter where the switch is.
Is this a bad actuator switch or a deeper problem?

Thanks.

etech1

Does anyone have a list of specific locations or a link to a downloadable, PDF, AutoCAD, or Intergraph file etc. containing detailed views of a 96 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel's electrical components? I am especially interested in the Daytime Running Lights (DRL). The Fusible link (40Amp) and the DRL MODULE. Where are these components physically located within the Engine Compartment? I think I’ve found the fusible link beneath the right side battery near the headlamp?
It’s getting COLD here so I didn’t want to spend excess time troubleshooting my electrical problems when I’m confident a member of this forum may have an answer to my problem.
PS:
(Recently a problem was identified with the DTR at this link. It’s interesting to note that the vehicle that burnt was a 96 DODGE RAM! )
http://www.canadiandriver.com/news/050314-9.htm
(Hope) this isn’t my problem!

KCRam

If you are losing 4th gear from fluid temperature issues, the first thing you want to do is have the trans cooler and cooling lines flushed and pressure tested for leaks. The 1995 transmission was the 47RH, which still relied on hydraulics to control the shifting, so this is most likely a fluid issue, not anythihg with wiring.

My 1996 Ram 3500 Cummins/47RE had cooling line leaks after about 7 1/2 years, and once replaced, no more shifting issues.

kcram - Pickups Host

02ramman

Joe,

I believe the shift mechanism is electric (starting with 02 1500's and 03-up all), not vacuum as in the past. The 03's have a TSB out for the defrost door getting stuck and breaking. I don't want to break any chat room rules by posting a link, but there is a good site out there that has all the TSB's for the Dodge Ram. Maybe just one of the electrical connectors came undone?

steve

teamroper1

Got the same problem. Need to change the oil sending unit on my 1999, 2500. Was yours diesel? Mine is! Where was the location?
The more specific the better---Thanks- teamroper1

ramtastic

Thanks Steve

I will look again for loose connections and try to locate the TSB you talk about.

Thanks, Joe

etech1

I was searching for a wiring diagram for my 96 Ram and came across the "AUTOZONE" Internet site. It has a lot of valuable info including a Repair Guide that has wiring diagrams etc. for example; here is the link for;
Chrysler Full-Size Trucks 1989-1996 Repair Information:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

ramtastic

If anyone has additional info they would like to send me concerning my Heater/ac switch problem, feel free to email me. My address is in my profile.....Thanks

Joe

Karen_S

We really prefer that answers and information be posted within the discussion. This way all can benefit from the knowledge.

hotfoot

My 2005 2500 HEMI 4X4 has 9500 miles. No noises when new. Now it has what sounds like a bearing noise that I can make come and go by turning the steering wheel. Power steering pump and serpentine belt tensioner pulley were replaced and didn't help. It also developed a loud ticking noise, like a lifter noise, when idling after it warms up. Dealer says it's fuel injectors but my 99 1500 didn't make that noise and it had 91K on it. It also makes an engine noise, under acceleration, that sounds like an exhaust leak at the manifold, very loud, louder than the exhaust even and getting worse. Dealer service manager thought he knew what it was but now says it's normal. It also loses anywhere from 4 to 6 MPH on cruise, going up-hill before down-shifting and picking up speed. 345 Hp? It seems like these problems may all be related but the dealer says "can't re-create the problem or normal". Anybody have any of these problems?