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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Also, you may want to have those new drive shafts checked for balance...they usually have weights welded to the shaft for balance, but sometimes they are a little off, and the drive shaft vibration can drive you nuts...I assume that a high performance shop would have the eqpt necessary to balance a drive shaft, but worth a try...
Lastly, check your universal joints/CV joints...many times a new drive shaft will be installed on old u-joints, and if the u-joints are at that magic point of wear, you will get high speed vibration...
Just a few random thoughts... :shades:
What does 'Edge' technical support have to say?
Tom
Thanks,
Rich
That's good news, it means your problem is not unique and they'll probably put some effort into solving it. May be worth starting on setting #5 once more in order to get the code.
You might as well do it at the parts store!
All ideas appreciated.
Tom
$60K out!
It is possible that you have a defective tire, where the treads have separated internally and it only shows up at high speed...
You mentioned that rotating the tires made it worse...if it was drive train, then tire rotation would not affect it...but, if a defective tire was moved from the front to the back, it could cause the entire vehicle to shake and shimmy...
A bad front tire causes the stering wheel to shimmy, but usually not the whole car...if a rear wheel is bad, the entire car shakes like a rocket taking off a launch pad...
I believe that a road force balance may reveal bad treads or other defects, because the roller against the tire will simulate the compression of the weight of the car, and may expose bad treads that separated internally...a standard hi speed balance will never reveal this...
Consider it seriously...it sounds like a possible tire problem due to worsening by tire rotation...may even be combined with a bent wheel...look carefully at this possibility...
I too have a 96 Dodge Ram 2500, just went and purchased new rims and tires. I wanted a wheel alignment done as well but... they would not do without replacing TIE ROD END, OUTER TIE ROD END, UPPER & LOWER BALL JOINTS (KAL-TIRE) CANADA wants $1,429 to do the job. Shopped around and found that Canadian Tire here will do it for $1,064. As for your steering part No.'s here is a link that gives the info:
https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,MOOG,STEERING
Do you have any tips on getting to the heater box? Does the air bag have to come out? I am not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks!!
I have had this small but annoying problem with the plastic heater control knobs breaking off. I have replaced them 5 or 6 times with dealer parts but they just keep breaking. And I don't think there is any abnormal force required when turning the knobs. I think there is some sort of design flaw involved.
Just a week ago I found replacement knobs that are not Dodge parts and are a perfect fit. These knobs seem to be built much better and stronger and I found them at AutoZone. They were sold as a pair for about $7 and were marked as parts for a Honda.
Knobs fit in just like they were made for my Ram. Just a slight shade difference on black but look like original parts.
Arrie
is there a valve between the heater hose and the core?- :confuse: you would think that circulation of water to the core would cause this problem.Have you put a flow meter on the in coming side of the core to see how much flow you have? But you covered flushing Let me know what you find out.
thanks
I live in cold weather state (MI) and really need to get this to shift to defrost mode (windshield) to prevent a possible accident..lol..help!
thanks, Joe
I have the same problem on my 1999 B3500 Ram Van, but the heat only comes out of the defroster and will not come out of the vents no matter where the switch is.
Is this a bad actuator switch or a deeper problem?
Thanks.
It’s getting COLD here so I didn’t want to spend excess time troubleshooting my electrical problems when I’m confident a member of this forum may have an answer to my problem.
PS:
(Recently a problem was identified with the DTR at this link. It’s interesting to note that the vehicle that burnt was a 96 DODGE RAM! )
http://www.canadiandriver.com/news/050314-9.htm
(Hope) this isn’t my problem!
My 1996 Ram 3500 Cummins/47RE had cooling line leaks after about 7 1/2 years, and once replaced, no more shifting issues.
kcram - Pickups Host
I believe the shift mechanism is electric (starting with 02 1500's and 03-up all), not vacuum as in the past. The 03's have a TSB out for the defrost door getting stuck and breaking. I don't want to break any chat room rules by posting a link, but there is a good site out there that has all the TSB's for the Dodge Ram. Maybe just one of the electrical connectors came undone?
steve
The more specific the better---Thanks- teamroper1
I will look again for loose connections and try to locate the TSB you talk about.
Thanks, Joe
Chrysler Full-Size Trucks 1989-1996 Repair Information:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide
Joe