Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

KCRam

That's either the seal or the pan gasket. As long as you're full, don't sweat it too much, but make sure to mention it when you have the tranny serviced.

kcram - Pickups Host

dustyk

Thanks for the great pictures. Since it looks like you have a 4x4 there are several possible causes.

The ABS indicator lamp is illuminated anytime the Anti-lock Brake Controller (CAB) sends a fault message to the instrument cluster. The CAB will declare a fault when it detects a malfunction or the anti-lock braking system is inoperative. The Brake indicator lamp will be illuminated when the CAB records a fault.

There are two versions of anti-lock brakes found on Dodge trucks: a rear wheel anti-lock system that operates the rear wheels only, and a full anti-lock system that operates all four wheels. In both systems there is a rear wheel speed sensor mounted to the rear differential. In addition, in a full system there are two sensors mounted to each front steering knuckle.

An ABS fault can be declared by a defective speed sensor, a defective hydraulic control unit, low brake fluid, a defective CAB, or an bad electrical connection in the CAB system. If the system is inoperative (ie: an open ABS controller fuse), a fault will also be declared. Ensure that there is adequate brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and check all electrical connections in the ABS system.

The rear wheel speed sensor mounted on the rear differential housing also sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to determine road speed. The fact that your speedometer isn't working tells me that this sensor may be causing both problems.

Best regards,
Dusty

lawdawgfl

Where can a find the VIN check? I went to the Chrysler site and could not find it. Thanks for all of your help. I bought the truck, it is sitting out front at work as we speak. :P

alefour

follow up
well after three weks they have determined the rod is not bent and so it looks like this new truck will be fixed under warranty. they are now looking at injectors or another mechanical failure of some kind. it sure took a lot of fighting to get them to actually check it out correctly. they are waiting on the proper tools to do a compression check. how can they service their own vehicles if they do not have the knowledge with tech to know what to do or the tools to properly check for problems.

i will keep you all posted. a lot more to add, but will wait to make sure they warranty this new truck.

webbromley

Looking to tow my 05 SLT 1500 behind an RV. What are the considerations/best practice for doing this?

medinabob

to: etech1
from: Bob

The links have provided some fantastic information. This weekend I'll start with a bit of cleaning of the brake area and the Sensors. From there . . . who knows.

Seeing this problem at MANY sites and with many vehicles has put me a bit at ease regarding the running of the truck, as it all seems to be a faulty indication of trouble rather than actually an ABS problem.

mrg00dwrench

Thanks for the reply. Well I am willing to put my money on the problem being caused by a malfunctioning speed sensor, as I recently filled my brake fluid, and I have the symptoms for it (ABS/Brake light + speedometer not kicking in 'till 25mph).

Now, the only other problem that lies is I have no clue what Im looking for when I look for the sensor and all that. Where is it located, or where can I find out? Thanks.

johnastephens

The rear differential and the rear speed sensor aren't the same.

I have the same problem with a 98 2500. I figure since the breaks work I'll drive it. Now my speedometer doesn't work until drive awhile at 70 MPH. It will work a little sooner if I run 70 and back off on the throttle. Now my A/C quit. Probably the orifice at the evaporator plugged.

This thing is nickel and dimming me to death. I bought this thing for the Cummins engine. I wish Ford or Chevrolet used Cummins.

henrypw

Hello Dusty , I own a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 which was factory converted to a motor home ( Pleasure-Way ) with only 65,000 K. My ABS and brake lights also stay on when I drive . I noticed from your list of causes that you didn't include the possibility that the electronic "gizmo " that runs the system might be defective. I brought my PW to a Dodge dealer and despite NOT having run all the tests you suggest, they came to the conclusion that my problem PROBABLY has to do with the little black box that controls the system ( left side behind the headlight ) .Since they didn't have a spare ( $500-$600. ) they weren't able to complete the tests. What surprised me is that my vehicle is not that old . The first symptom appeared a month ago - depending on how I would release the handbrake , the light would stayed on . I would very much appreciate your opinion. Thanks HenryPW

dustyk

The rear differential speed sensor is mounted to the differential case. Ypu will see a three-wire harness going to it and it is held in place by one bolt.

Best regards,
Dusty

johnastephens

Can anybody tell me were the expansion valve or whatever they are calling it these days is located on a 1998 RAM 2500
Thanks,

John

dustyk

Actually, I think I hit everything. The CAB in the Anti-lock Brake Controller module and the electronic computer that operates the ABS system. The hydraulic control unit is the master valve that contols hydraulic brake pressure to each affected wheel.

The "black box" you refer to has steel brake lines going to it, it is the hydraulic control unit. If one of the internal pressure releif valves have stuck in one position, then yes it could cause an ABS fault.

Regards,
Dusty

johnastephens

I would like to get the best manual available on CD for a 1998 Ram 2500.

Any suggestions.

Thanks,

John

bfagerberg

I have a 1999 quadcab cummins 2wd auto, if I start up with the fuel light on it will not shift out of 1st gear. Put fuel in, enough for the light to go out, and it shifts fine. Diagnostics show no code. Tran just rebuilt, problem before and after rebuild.

engine611

I have a 1997 Ram 1500. All of a sudden, the truck wouldn't start. Put a new battery in and still nothing. Seems to get juice to the fuse block by the battery but the darn thing won't turn over. Didn't know if it could be an ignition interlock problem or not. Took the truck out of park and put it back in park several times and still nothing. HELP!!!!

tonysav

I have no Parking or license plate lights on a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500. Fuses and bulbs are Ok. My question is; are the parking lights controlled from a control module and if so where is it located. :confuse:
Thanks in advance.

jester2

I'm looking at a 01 quadcab 4x4 cummins with a 6 spd. manual tranny. It has some miles on it-133,000-,but is in pretty good shape.Got them down to $16,250.What kind of PROBLEMS can I expect to have? Also how do I tell if it is a 5.9L H.O. ? :confuse:

gmperry

I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab. It came with the radio that has Sat, 6 CD Changer, AM/FM, and etc. A week later I went back to the dealer and bought the RB1 Nav radio and had it installed. I now have the old (new) radio and would like to give it to my son for his 2005 Ram pickup. Can anyone tell me how to remove his old radio and install mine in his truck? I'd greatly appreciate any help that I could get.

mrg00dwrench

ohhh ok....and wheres that? :P

mac24

Not meaning to be smart here, but if you're not sure where the differential is you might be better off farming the job out to a local shop. It's a quick and easy job so it shouldn't be costly for labor, and it's it's sure to be cheaper than buying a second sensor if you damage the first one because of a faulty installation. You might also want to pick up a cheap Haynes or Chiltons manual, which will give you a good grounding in the basics.

lbjkj

My son got into my truck and turned the key on, which drained the battery all the way. After charging the battery, I started my truck and the speedometer wont work. I have a micro tuner that reads codes. No codes where flashed. I know this has to be related to the battery going completely dead. Any advice!

softailfxst

I cannot remove the rear brake drum I've tried prying pounding with hammer and it will not budge!!! There is no hole in the back to loosen the brke shoes like on most drum brakes where you stick a screwdriver in and turn the gear to release the pressure on the drums...NO hole in the back of the drum at ALL!!! what should I do to remove the drum???? :mad: :mad: :mad:
Thanks

mrg00dwrench

No no no, I made myself out to be a know-nothing. I am very good with electrical, so Im sure wiring a new one wouldnt be hard. I wrote that last response in a hurry as I was about to run out the door. I just dont know where the actual sensor is.

mac24

It's exactly where Dusty said it is................. on the diff housing. It's hard to miss as you've only got to look to see it.

KCRam

Ideally, you should physically disconnect both driveshafts from the transfer case and seal it to prevent fluid leak. This removes all possibility of the powertrain being connected to any moving parts (driveshafts, axle shafts, tires) that will be in use during the tow.

If this can't be done for whatever reason, at the very least make sure the t-case is in its Neutral position.

kcram - Pickups Host

mac24

..........at the very least make sure the t-case is in its Neutral position.

..............and that the main transmission is in Park.

dustyk

Hmmm. Have you driven the vehicle since recharging the battery? Have you noticed any other symptoms?

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

If your referring to the High Pressure Relief Valve, it is located at the rear of the compressor on the compressor cylinder head.

It is designed to open at 600 psi.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

Things to check:

*Clutch petal interlock switch (manual transmission only)

*Starter relay (located in the power distribution center or fuse box. The underside of the cover should list the relay position)

*Starter solenoid

*Ignition switch

*starter cable and other electrical connections

Regards,
Dusty

jchew

I have a similar problem with my 01 Dodge 2500 turbodiesel pickup. My problem occurs usually after warm up and occurs at all speeds 25mph to 85mph. The engine will suddenly lose power for 2-10 seconds and no throttle position seems to help. Sometimes it gets so bad the only way I can continue to drive it is to shift it out of gear to Neutral and let it idle for a few seconds before putting it back into drive and then it is fine for 20 to 30 seconds. Some days it will not happen at all. Other days it happens for 80% of my 20mile commute. Installed LP idiot light but never comes on. New fuel filter but still does the same thing. Please help. Does not matter if pulling a load or not, level ground or hill does the same thing. Don't want to spend 1800 on fuel pump and injector pump if that is not the problem. Thanks John

kilster

I think you had the best guess, sounds like a bad injector pump.

gatordog

I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 p/u. my mechanic tells me i need a new freeze plug. can this be changed by a do it yourselfer. He said he has to drop the trans to do it. can i do it myself. please help!

mac24

Changing a freeze plug is easy, pierce with a punch and lever it out........drift in the new one. However, getting sufficient access to do the job is a whole different ball game. It sounds as though your one might be at the back of the engine, in which case you may well have to drop the tranny to gain access.

gatordog

thanks for the freeze plug tip. what problems can occur with a leaky freeze plug. Loss of coolant/antifreeze, or trans fluid? I am leaking both. if i do have to drop the trans and have a mechanic do it what might that cost if anyone could venture a guess. I appreciate the tips, i'm new to this site

mac24

what problems can occur with a leaky freeze plug.

Loss of coolant.

I've no idea of the labor costs for that job, but getting several estimates from local shops should give you a idea of what's fair.

kinao_700

After my battery died on my 5.2L Dodge Ram I jumped it off, after that my truck cant idle on its own with out me steping on the gas. The check engine light also came on. Can anyone help me?

gyps3000

Thanks Mac24. i found this place today ironically. i appreciate the help though.

lbjkj

Well i talked to some electrictions at work and they told me that i might have enough voltage to start the truck but not enough to run the computer. So i went home and charged the battery for about an hour and low and behold that was it. The guys at work said that a dealer told them that a low battery can cause all kinds of problems.

02ramman

gmperry,

Remove the screw just above the bag holder, the one between the center console and the glove box. Open the ashtray and the cupholder. Pull straight out on the plastic center console (the one that goes around the radio and has the cubby hole in it. It will seem like it is going to break, but if you pull directly out it will not. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the cigar lighter and A/C Panel. There are four screws that hold the radio in, two on both sides. Remove the screws and pull the radio out (it will be in snugly). The antennae is the tricky part. You must push the antennae wire in, then pull the outer collar back, then pull out the antennae wire. (It is a locking device).

kilster

sounds like you need a new battery, low voltage will keep the PCM from figuring out where to set the idle, probably wouldn't be a bad idea to clean your throttle body/Idle Control motor also.

boomersooner48

I have a 2003 2wd Reg. cab short bed dodge ram with the hemi and I want to level the truck by putting in coil spring spacers. I was wondering if they made a difference or am I throwing away my money by putting the kit in? I want to get rid of the riding your brakes look and make it look more like a 4wd without paying for the 4wd truck. Please leave any comments that might help me in making this decision.

river_whore

When i put my truck in 4 high or 4 :confuse: low, the transfer case engages the front drive line, it goes into lock in position and begins to spin but, my left and front wheels don't spin. It feels like i only have two wheel drive. Any help appreciated. :confuse:

dtower77

Have a 1996 Dodge Ram 4x4 sport 318 manual shift with 100,000 miles on it. Was going to work the other morning died out on me. Tried to start it just crank over and would not fire. No engine light came on. Got it towed to my mechanic, when he got to it later in the morning it started no problem so when I went to pick it up started again no problem. Took it out die just down the block. So again got it towed to the shop mechanic started to work on it would idle but if you pressed on gas it would die out. Appears to be flooding itself out. My mechanic did lots of test everything ok fuel pump working good pressure also in injectors. Appears to be dumping fuel into system to flood it out. Replace four differnt sensors (map, tps, cold and one other still same thing. Also replaced distibutor cap and point/
Also no codes came up stated there was no problems encounter.
Help!

mac24

You've either blown the front diff, or far more likely the locking hubs aren't engaging.

dtower77

Further to my message #2365, we also swapped out the computer still the same no change.

dodgeandweave

I asked this question awhile back but didn't get any response....figured it was worth another shot. Here's the deal....the fan/blower that blows heat or AC in my truck is tempermental. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it won't turn on at all. Took it to the dealer and they supposedly checked it out...of course it was working when I brought it in. They tested all the wires etc (so they say) and found nothing wrong. They speculated it might be a dead spot or dirty brushes in the fan motor. I can drive the truck with it not working, turn the ignition off, and then start it back up and it works fine. One other mechanic thought it might be a connection issue with the ignition switch. Anyone have a similar problem or an idea how to remedy? The dealer suggests a new fan which runs about $330 installed. Winter is coming and I need heat!!!

kilster

what year and model is your truck?

kilster

check your vacuum lines to your front axle disconnect, you might find a bad line around your transfer case.

schmedly

Tell you mechanic to quit throwing parts at your truck. There are tests that can be performed on each sensor mentioned to determine if it is faulty PRIOR to replacing it. I'd find a mechanic with a manual.

dpence2002

Sounds like your exhaust system is plugged and the engine can't breathe.