On those injection pumps the shut down solenoid is mounted vertically above the throttle lever. Turn off key and it should be extended vertically pointing down. Then turn key on and just crank vehicle and solenoid opens up(retracts) when cranking only. If it doesn't do that then check for electrical power interuption. If that is good replace solenoid. email me if you still need help.
I have a 97 Ram 1500 4wd ext cab 5.2ltr automatic push button overdrive trans with cruise control. The trans had to be rebuilt at 50k miles... I am now approaching 100k and reverse is starting to whine like it did before it went out at 50k. I have read that a nv4500 manual 5 speed can be retro fitted. But it does not seem to be a cost effective fix. Are there any other automatic trans that are a bolt in replacement? I would consider rebuilding this on myself if I could find decent material that is specific my trans.. which brings up another question... I have seen reference to a 518 and a 500 trans for my truck. How do you know which one it is?
Oh and my front and rear seals are starting leak a little. Where can I find information on a rebuild kit for my 318.. I'd like to, if possible, increase the power and fuel economy.
I have a 2000 Ram 1500 with similar problems, vibration and pulsation felt through the steering column mostly when braking. It's not the brakes, they are in fine shape. There is also a dull creaking noise heard from the front when braking. Weird! I drove a 2000 2500 the other day and it does the same thing. Let me know if you find a fix.
I was told by one Dodge service center that the hub assembly must be taken off to surface the bearings. Another service center is telling me it's a sealed bearing and does not need servicing. Should I service this bearing or not? And if yes, how does it come off? Please email me directly at stfdret@aol.com My truck has been sitting for 3 days now and I need to get this done. I brought it to a brake place but they couldn't do it. LONG STORY but in a nutshell, after 3 hours of waiting, they said they didn't have the right tools to take off the hub to service the bearings. Thanks for any help you can offer. Tim
I have a drivers power seat assembly to install in my 2002 Dodge RAM to replace the existing manual drivers seat. Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the power seat. My fuse block has a 50 AMP fuse in slot # 7 marked for "Power Seat". Any help would be much appreciated.
My understanding is that those hubs are sealed and cannot be serviced. Doesn't mean it doesn't need replacing, just that it can't be opened up and serviced.
I just bought a 2003 dodge ram 1500 with 44 thous miles on it. I was driving down the freeway dong 60 miles hour and the engine blew on my truck. Before this happened the truck was running great. It happened so quick. I heard a rattling noise then the temp guage went all the way over to the hottest mark possible and the check guadges light came on. I emediatly tryed to pull off to the shoulder of the road and the truck died. Thank god I was still going fast enough to finish coasting off the side of the road to get enough off the freeway as not to get hit. I have been online looking around to see if there is a possibility that this year dodge or these motors in the dodge trucks are having problems like this. I only had this truck for 1 week when the motor blew. The dodge dealer is saying that something came loose in cilidar # 5 that caused the motor to blow. :confuse: Thank god my truck is still under the extended warrenty because they are having to put a new mototr in.">
WOW THAT IS THE SAME THING THAT IS HAPPENING TO ME , DODGE JUST GOT ME FOR 700.00 $ FOR A FUEL PUMP, I HERD IT MAY BE LEAKING FUEL INJECTORS ? DID YOU FIGURE IT OUT THANKS !!!!!!!!
HI GUYS , MY RAM REFUSES TO START LATE AT NIGHT, IT WILL START EARLIE MORNING AND AS THE DAY PROGRESSES IT COMPLETLY DIES OUT, IT TURNS OVER BUT DOSENT START. THEY REPLACED MY FUEL PUMP BUT IT IS STILL DOING IT HAS THIS HAPPENED TO ANYONE ELSE ?? ANY HELP PLEASE !!!!!! DELIGHT537@AOL.COM
I have a problem with my 1500 during idle. When i idle it, it surges very noticibly. also the AC frequently goes from blowing out the vents to degfog while driving. any ideas would be appreciated greatly. Thanks
I just bought a used 99 ram and it has the same problems(spiting and sputtering not going over thirty) was it the fuel injectors,or can it be a fuel pump, filter or dirty tank??!! ---HELP ME---
You either have a 5.9 (360), a 4.7 V-8 or the 3.7 V-6 motor. The V-6 is just a 4.7 with two cylinders missing. Both the 3.7 and 4.7 engines have an exceptionally strong reputation for being extremely durable and reliable. If in fact you've lost a 4.7/3.7 engine it would be the very first I have even heard of! The 360 is equally known for not having catastrophic failures either, although over the years I think I've heard of a couple that puked. Both where related to losing the oil pump.
But, it can happen. You don't state, but is the dealer going to warranty the motor for you?
I've had a similar problem with my 04 dodge. My truck usually cuts off on me when Im idle at a light with the AC on. When I release the brake and apply gas, my truck would cutoff. On two occassions I found that the Engine Control Relay fuse had blown. It's happened three times in the last four months. I changed the fuse from a 30 amp to a 50 amp, and it hasnt happened again.
I have a drivers power seat assembly to install in my 2002 Dodge RAM to replace the existing manual drivers seat. Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the power seat. My fuse block has a 50 AMP fuse in slot # 7 marked for "Power Seat". Any help would be much appreciated.
Every few months the brake lights, radio and clock quit working for a few weeks then go back to normal. This has happened several times and I can not find a cause. All fuses and relays are ok. This is a 1995 Ram 2500 pick up. any help appreciated. canebraker
I have a problem with my '98 Dodge Ram 1500. For some reason my ABS and Brake lights are illuminated and they won't shut off, even though I am not driving with my emergency brake off. Is this a sign that I may need to replace the brakes or could it be something else? Do I need to buy new brakes?
Any advice would be appreciated, as I know nothing about cars and maintenance. I don't want to get ripped off at the dealer.
stalls and running only for a short time everything has been checked and changed at dealer happens when idling or on road this problem developed one day on road all of a sudden
i press the button and the cruise control light does not come on, on the dash. cruise won't engage at all. dodge says their is no fuse to check, need to take to dodge dealer. dealer wan't $89 just to take a look at it. they won't give any advise over the phone. do i need to spend $89 to find out what is up, or are there some simple things I can check? i've looked at the manual and it is no help. THANKS!
I have a 2004 2500 4x4 mine did that once I was told that on the driver side fender well in engine compartment there is a box that holds the brake controller for these. If moisture happens to get into the plug then the computer sees a distruption and sets these. If you can unplug the connector and blow it out make sure there is not moisture then plug in and try it.
sounds like you have a weak battery, or a dirty Idle Air Control Motor (IAC) I would take the IAC out clean it and the throttle body port first and if it doesn't fix it replace the battery.
you first need to find out if you have a code set by the controller, 1998 truck i would guess you might find you have a bad speed sensor on the rear diff.
you didn't say what engine you have but assuming it is gas, check for a broken vacuum line under or near your battery. You can even take the vacuum line off of the cruise servo to see if it has vacuum to it, if it does sounds like you might have a bad servo.
You likely need new brakes. That would be the most common cause for the light remaining on. What it is probably sensing is the lack of fluid in the reservoir that takes place as the brakes wear out. Adjusting the rear brakes won't hurt either.
Just for every ones information there is very DIFFENTELY a problem with the fuel pump/fuel injector. Our truck has been in the shop since the 11th of Aug. They are still waiting for the fuel pump/injector parts. Come to find out that they were defective in the 2003's. Not sure about any other years. The Main plant is in the process of re-doing them and right now over 365 are back ordered. It may be a day or a month before the part if manufactured. I wonder why there hasn't been a recall. So far the bill if over $10,000.00. We are beginning to wonder about DODGE. A lawyer may be in order before this is all over with.
I have a 2002 Dodge ram quad cab i only have 41000 miles on, it and now my transmission want caught after it shift the first time. it does ok when i first start off and make the first shift ok after that it want caught at all, do anyone have a idea what can be going on. do you think i need to change the filter in the transmission also when this happen the check engine light came on
Does anyone have an answer as to why Dodge requires you to change your differential oil every 18K miles? I have a 04 Ram Quad, short bed, 9.25 rear axle. I tow a 16' aluminum boat and a Coleman pop-up (2500 lbs). I use synthetic 90W-140 Mopar at $18.40 per qt. No other truck manufacturers recommend this oil change this frequently. I thought synthetic oil is supposed to last a lot longer than conventional oils. I called a couple of dealerships in the area and no-one seems to know why.">
I have recently discovered that my used 01' Dodge Ram V6 had had the check engine light busted out of it, and when I took it in for inspection they wouldn't even test it because the CE light wouldn't come on.
I took it to the mechanic and got the Codes P1492 and P1493 which translates to:
AMBIENT/BATT TEMP SENSOR VOLTS TOO HIGH & AMBIENT/BATT TEMP SENSOR VOLTS TOO LOW
I am sure the local auto parts store doesn't carry them, because when I asked about it they didn't know what I was talking about. But if anyone has experienced this problem I would sure like to hear how the problem was resolved.
if memory serves me you need to change the sensor that it mounted in the battery tray under the battery, if you take the battery out it will look like a flat pop up pin. Batteries will leak and usually damage the sensor and possibly the wiring.
i'm not sure what they are charging you for but I just fixed a 2003 for trash in the fuel system, came in by way of the aux. tank and cheap fuel filter, Replaced 6 Injectors, about $450. each for reman about $600 for new, The Tech needs to call chrysler to have them sent, I got mine the next day. Cummins came out with a new fuel pump that goes in the tank, much better pump, Think it was around $350., Replaced the fuel rail about $400, fuel tubes $50. each x6 The only thing we didnt replace was the injector pump, cost about $2000.00 With Labor on the about cost was about 4500. I think they are charging you for stuff you dont need or replacing parts they dont know how to fix. Its not that the parts are bad, just doesnt take much to get trash in the system. I found to install a inline fuel filter between the tank and the dodge filter, cost about $200.00 is cheaper then $4000, plus for not having it. Jim2003 please email if you would like to know more and i would like to know just what they are doing to your truck.
"Developed by the Lubrizol Corporation and currently manufactured by Havoline, Chrysler Type 9602 or ATF+4 is a specially formulated fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid that incorporates a very high viscosity index (VHVI) base stock and contains an unique and exclusive high-strength additive package. This transmission fluid is engineered to be a "fill-for-life" fluid under normal driving conditions with a minimum practical end life of 150,000 miles. Designed exclusively for DaimlerChrysler automatic transmissions, it is also recommended for certain manual transmissions and all 1999 and newer Chrysler power steering systems. ATF+4 is fully compatible with all transmission applications where Type 7176 fluids (ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3) have previously been specified.
"Through the use of its patented additive package ATF+4 will maintain the original shift quality of all Chrysler designed automatic transmissions. It contains superior properties for low temperature operation to -55 degrees F, and maintains a high viscosity index above 350 F. ATF+4 produces superior wear and rust prevention qualities especially when compared to Dexron-Mercon or aftermarket synthetic fluids. ATF+4 controls oxidation to a much higher degree than Dexron-Mercon series fluids and represents a notable improvement over ATF+3.
"ATF+4 reduces the effects of moisture and will practically eliminate the formation of deposits in otherwise healthy transmissions. Its exclusive friction modifier composition also controls friction and maintains the minimum surface loss of transmission clutches. ATF+4 contains the maximum anti-foaming characteristics of any currently marketed ATF.
"ATF+ series automatic transmission fluids must be operated in a ATF+ pure operating environment and are highly susceptible to chemical destabilization from non-ATF+ automatic transmission fluids. Automatic transmissions designed and manufactured by Chrysler Corporation or DaimlerChrysler using ATF+3 may use ATF+4, either as a supplement or full replenishment.
(end of brief)
The typical density (viscosity) of SAE graded ATF is; 850 kg/m3 @ 15 centigrade, 820 kg/m3 @ 100 C, and 788 kg/m3 @ 150 C. These values are typical and will vary from one manufacturer fluid to another. I can not find a SAE established viscosity range for any ATF. The above values are NLGI (National Lubricant and Grease Institute) figures for Dexron-Mercon type II, which is now obsolete.
Not well known is the fact that Chrysler (like Ford & GM) has always had their own specification for ATF used in their transmissions, going back as far as the first TorqueFlite in 1955, and Chrysler has always shipped cars and trucks with a proprietary ATF. Chrysler service manuals stated that the factory fluid was a "fill for life" ATF under normal service. Dexron-Mercon was permitted for service purposes, but when the factory fill was drained and Dexron was inserted a service interval of 25,000 miles was required.
I recently bought a 05 Dodge Ram and when I recieved it all was fine I was on my way home I hit 40 mph and all the lights came on. While driving I also noticed that the cruise control did not work you hit Crusie control it lights on the dashboard but when you go to set it nothing happens. Any Ideas on any off the problems. Or do you think I should just return the truck I have no had it for a little over 24 hours. I got it on a balloon lease. Help please
Similar to minimama1 - I'm driving along the highway when the ABS and brake lights pop on - then the speedometer fails and the odometer stays where it is. Later the check engine light goes on. The brakes are fine - now when I drive for about 15 minutes the speedometer/odomter jump back to life. If I turn the truck off then on the ABS and brake lights are off and if I reset the computer that goes off too - problem solved until the next morning when it's cold again and it's all broken again.
After a hard rain I find a lot of water in the back of the cab under the fold up seat on the passenger side of my 1999 1500 Quad Cab. I don't see any window seals leaking or any place it could be coming in. It will actually create a puddle in one spot in the corner but the rest of the carpet under the seat is dry all the way across the back of the cab. I pulled the interior drain plug and nothing came out. Any suggestions?
Both pumps were out . I took it to dodge dealer. The estimate was 3300.oo.I ask why. they said they didn't put the same inj. pump back on them because they had too much trouble with them.The new inj pump would cost 2009.00. I called dodge rep. and they agreed to replace both pumps with me copaying 500.00. I picked up my truck and they have replaced it with the original pump(VP44). I have heard more lies from them than any human can stand.Where do they get the people from and how do they get them to lie like its is nothing. I know some must go to church?
Good news!.....well bitter sweet i guess, my catalytic converter is my problem , seems to be sqealin now. Does anybody know where there might be an affordable one or just the swap out of the converter itself. Am i stuck with changing out the entire middle of the exhaust assembly. This one has two in and one out with the sensor straight into the converter.
My 2002 Dodge 1500 is suddenly not down shifting when coming to a stop. When you take off it stays in high gear, 3rd or 2nd not sure which. Even when I back out of the drive-way, and then place it in Drive to pull out- it will be in high gear,instead of low? I haven't gotten any panel lights on or check engine light. It has about 65k miles. Any ideas?
Nope I couldnt't find anything like that, but after doing more research I know its connected to the alternator so I will just follow it from there, oh and the Battery Temperature sensor also acts as a voltage sensor. I dunno? Thanks.
Is it true that you can convert your truck from gasoline to Diesel, with a pre-made sold on the market kit? If so can anyone direct me how to find more about that?
Do you mean by fitting a diesel engine in place of the gasoline one, or by converting the gasoline engine to run on diesel? If you mean the latter then the anwer is no. However, fitting a diesel engine to a Ram isn't a problem seeing as they're available like that from the factory. I don't know of any commercially kit of parts to do the job though.
mine is a 2001 and doing exactly that, tranny shop went all over it and nothing , no codes, suggested it may be tps, but at 450.00 im not ready to try it just yet. HELP! any suggestions please email me. thanks scottie
Comments
Oh and my front and rear seals are starting leak a little. Where can I find information on a rebuild kit for my 318.. I'd like to, if possible, increase the power and fuel economy.
Thanks
But, it can happen. You don't state, but is the dealer going to warranty the motor for you?
Best regards,
Dusty
high beams from the positive side or the negative side?
will keep u posted
regards
Karl
Any advice would be appreciated, as I know nothing about cars and maintenance. I don't want to get ripped off at the dealer.
I took it to the mechanic and got the Codes P1492 and P1493 which translates to:
AMBIENT/BATT TEMP SENSOR VOLTS TOO HIGH &
AMBIENT/BATT TEMP SENSOR VOLTS TOO LOW
I am sure the local auto parts store doesn't carry them, because when I asked about it they didn't know what I was talking about. But if anyone has experienced this problem I would sure like to hear how the problem was resolved.
Oh BTW, this site is great.
"Developed by the Lubrizol Corporation and currently manufactured by Havoline, Chrysler Type 9602 or ATF+4 is a specially formulated fully synthetic automatic transmission fluid that incorporates a very high viscosity index (VHVI) base stock and contains an unique and exclusive high-strength additive package. This transmission fluid is engineered to be a "fill-for-life" fluid under normal driving conditions with a minimum practical end life of 150,000 miles. Designed exclusively for DaimlerChrysler automatic transmissions, it is also recommended for certain manual transmissions and all 1999 and newer Chrysler power steering systems. ATF+4 is fully compatible with all transmission applications where Type 7176 fluids (ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3) have previously been specified.
"Through the use of its patented additive package ATF+4 will maintain the original shift quality of all Chrysler designed automatic transmissions. It contains superior properties for low temperature operation to -55 degrees F, and maintains a high viscosity index above 350 F. ATF+4 produces superior wear and rust prevention qualities especially when compared to Dexron-Mercon or aftermarket synthetic fluids. ATF+4 controls oxidation to a much higher degree than Dexron-Mercon series fluids and represents a notable improvement over ATF+3.
"ATF+4 reduces the effects of moisture and will practically eliminate the formation of deposits in otherwise healthy transmissions. Its exclusive friction modifier composition also controls friction and maintains the minimum surface loss of transmission clutches. ATF+4 contains the maximum anti-foaming characteristics of any currently marketed ATF.
"ATF+ series automatic transmission fluids must be operated in a ATF+ pure operating environment and are highly susceptible to chemical destabilization from non-ATF+ automatic transmission fluids. Automatic transmissions designed and manufactured by Chrysler Corporation or DaimlerChrysler using ATF+3 may use ATF+4, either as a supplement or full replenishment.
(end of brief)
The typical density (viscosity) of SAE graded ATF is; 850 kg/m3 @ 15 centigrade, 820 kg/m3 @ 100 C, and 788 kg/m3 @ 150 C. These values are typical and will vary from one manufacturer fluid to another. I can not find a SAE established viscosity range for any ATF. The above values are NLGI (National Lubricant and Grease Institute) figures for Dexron-Mercon type II, which is now obsolete.
Not well known is the fact that Chrysler (like Ford & GM) has always had their own specification for ATF used in their transmissions, going back as far as the first TorqueFlite in 1955, and Chrysler has always shipped cars and trucks with a proprietary ATF. Chrysler service manuals stated that the factory fluid was a "fill for life" ATF under normal service. Dexron-Mercon was permitted for service purposes, but when the factory fill was drained and Dexron was inserted a service interval of 25,000 miles was required.
Sorry for the late response.
Regards,
Dusty
Similar to minimama1 - I'm driving along the highway when the ABS and
brake lights pop on - then the speedometer fails and the odometer stays
where it is. Later the check engine light goes on. The brakes are fine -
now when I drive for about 15 minutes the speedometer/odomter jump back
to life. If I turn the truck off then on the ABS and brake lights are off and if I
reset the computer that goes off too - problem solved until the next morning when it's cold again and it's all broken again.
So - All of my problems are due to a rear differentiial speed sensor?!??
thanks
scottie