Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

dimster

Hello

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab with a 4.7 engine in it. I recently put a 3 inch body lift on it and replaced the stock P245 tires with 315. Since I have done these changes my truck has loss power and shifts more then the usual. I was told my computer was programed for the original specs and this is what is creating my problems. Super-Chips does have a performance chip due out, towards the end of August and they claim it will correct these problems. I have also been told by upgrading my rear end gears to 410"s should also correct this problem but will cost more $$$. If I opt to change my stock gears to 410's will I also have to upgarde my rear axle ? Due you feel the Super chip will do the trick or in the long run changing my gearing will be the best fix ???? Would appreciate any input to help me get my turck running good.

dustyk

Speed Sensor failures are quite common on your year RAM, but your symptoms don't exactly match the failure mode. Speed sensor failures usually cause a loss of speedometer, cruise control, ABS braking with corresponding fault indicating lamps.

But your's sounds different, and, no, there are no obvious causes that come to mind. It almost sounds like you lost PCI bus circuit, but I'm a little suspicious that your PCM might be bad. This is a good case for having a dealer (or AutoZone, etc.) pull the codes with a DRB3 scan tool.

Good luck,
Dusty

dustyk

In practical terms you've changed your final drive ratio considerably, which is why the transmission is hunting a lot and you feel a loss of power. The PCM can be reprogrammed to a taller tire size, but there's a limit to that which I think you might have exceeded with the 315s.

Even at that, nothing can make up for the loss of final drive ratio. A chip might provide you with some benefit. How much is just a guess, but I suspect it'll never make up completely for those tall tires.

A change of rear axle gear set will be the only complete way to compensate for the increased tire size. I'm not sure 410s will be enough, though.

Regards,
Dusty

swhitt9271

94 dodge 1500 5.2 standard engine swap got an engine out of my 96 which is an automatic
the engine cranks right up when you give it gas the it bogs down you can spray starter fuild in as it bog and it will speed up no pr0blems it does act like its backfiring a little it the intake
i done this so far
1 comper check 150 all good
2 replaced all inject
3 replaced the dist.
4 put the other flywheel sensor on
5 check time a100 time and no wire cross
6 fuel pressure test done
7 the exhaust was drop
you tell me please help this is a small thing i can not put my fingers on
jay

highgdriver

I discovered through research that the current Dodge SA (straight-axle/solid-axle) trucks indeed have the unitized wheel bearings. There is at least one kit that enables the use of plain, old bearings and grease seals. The cost of replacing the weak and troublesome unitized bearing hovers around $1800--regular bearings and grease seals are about $40 for left and right. Unitized bearings are an answer to a question that nobody asked. Anyone have either good or bad to say about their unitized bearing experience?

jlag

I have just recently had a similar problem after driving cross-country. I have now spent over $300 trying to fix it & it isn't any better. Did yours eventually resolve or did you just shoot it?

lhall

my 2001 Dodge 2500 4 wheel drive (auto transmission)picks up rpm's after letting off the gas, like when approaching a stop sign or going down a hill. You can watch the tachometer fluctuate 400-500 rpm. If i shift the transmission into neutral, it slows to idle speed. I thought maybe it was a vacuum problem, but could find no leaks. Any ideas?

sappony

Dodge 1500 Ram 4x4 SLT 2004 with 40,000 miles. #20 Fuse (25Amp) "Ignition-unlock run / start" has blown twice in 2 days in hot weather after 25-20 miles travel.
Replaced fuse, runs fine. Dealer searching for cause.
Any experience?

steveh5

Many thanks, Dusty.

Steve

billbmet

I have a 03 ram 2500 w\cummins deisel. I have the same problem with the vents on the passenger side being warmer than the driver side vents. It is real noticeable when a\c is on. Dealer tried to tell me evaporator was cracked and 2 lbs low on freon. But it cooled at 48 deg on driver side. I told them to leave it alone and give it back. I got the truck back with the freon drained from the system. I need help with the solution.

bob554

Have had my truck for four years, and 60,000 miles with no problems untill now.
The oil pressure gague goes to 60 lbs. as soon as the key is turned on, before the engine is started, and stays there untill the engine is turned off. Noticed this about one month ago.
In the past few weeks the engine seens to be running out of fuel at about 2000 rpm. Changed the fuel filter for the first time and for about a week it was fine, now the trouble has come back. But it is interminttent. Some days it is fine, other days when first starting it will not go past 2000 rpm. After driving for 15 - 20 min. it seems fine, turn it off for an hour or so and when restarting it happens all over again. Took a 300 mile trip with no problems, the next day it happened again. Any ideas?

Thanks

Bob

dustyk

The oil pressure gauge problem is either the sending unit (my first guess) or the gauge. There could be a instrument cluster problem. Can you perform the instrument cluster test?

As far as the engine wanting to die, maybe the two problems are related if you have a oil pressure cut-off switch. I'm not very familiar with the diesel versions. Other than that, it might be a fuel pump issue. Check the fuel pump relay in the relay panel. I've heard of a couple of relay failures on RAMs.

Best regards,
Dusty

grafx

Check this out. My rpm and tach quit, along with my a/c (still blows but compressor is not engaged) and my auto tranny will not shift out of third. :surprise: Good voltage to "everything". There are no blown fuses or burnt wires, radio and all other electronics seem to be working properly. I am just about ready to pull my hair out. :mad: Has anyone ever experienced an issue such as this?? :confuse: If so, I need all the help I can get. :sick: :sick: Thanks, Grafx

carpenter2

I also have the shimmie problem in my pick up. Did you find any solution. I have put new vented rotors and front stablizer and I still have the problem reoccurring within a short period of time. Was told to try replacing the track bar. Have you found any answers? Thanks.

steveh5

I figured out what malfunctioned. At the rear of the transfer case, next to where the driveshaft exits, there is a speed sensor. When popped out, there is a plastic pinion gear that meshes with the shaft that turns the drive shaft. The teeth on the plastic gear are worn out. I have one on order to be here tomorrow. Short of the metal gear inside of the transfer case being clogged with the remnants of this gear, I believe that this will fix my problem. Maybe this post will help someone diagnose this problem with their truck.

dodgetrble

I took my husbands's 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 to the store and to my surprise when I went to leave it would not reverse! It has 60000 miles. We have checked and added transmission fluid. Can you tell me anything else we can do before turning it over to a mechanic? I really need some kind of clue to whats wrong and a price rang from best scenario to worst ...we were a couple months away from trading it in for a new one and now we can't even trade it in and get the loan balance paid off ...such a bummer. Also, this is a medium duty truck ( I think) and my husband pulls a trailer alot on it for work ...probably 3x per week about 50 miles ...its gets pretty full and heavy (dirt and concrete) can this be part of the reason? Help ! Thanks!

grafx

I have replaced several track bars and did not fix my shimming problem. Try rotating the tires. I had "broken cords" in my front tires. Worst case, you will get a balancing out of it...

steveh5

I replaced the dampening shock attached between the center link and the frame. My front end hasn't shimmied anymore.

4ducks

Coal-- I went to Auto Zone and they ran codes for me. Said it was the Speed Sensor. When we replaced it, same problems (still no speedometer & all lights still on.) My husband thinks it may be a fault inthe PCM. Will check tomorrow. :confuse:

dustyk

...or the wiring.

Dusty

coal2

Thanks for the effort, I can help you out on this one........the problem was the rear differential speed sensor, ABS works from the signal on the differential, but also talks to the tail shaft speed sensor, thus the problem with the speedometer not working. replaced diff sensor and all is well.

4ducks

When I originally went to Auto Zone, they told me the speed sensor. I guess their equipment doesn't narrow it down to which speed sensor it is, huh? I tried looking up the rear differential speed sensor online through Auto Zone and they don't have anything by that name. Is there sonething else I should be looking for?

cabot424

Had a complete tuneup on 1998 ram sport because of similar problems. The truck runs fine unless you want to go over 35 mph. It loses power. I was told it could be the fuel injectors but they couldn't be sure. The cost of the repairs would be a bit expensive. Does anyone have any ideas? Most car mechanics will not explain a repair to a woman.

01ram

Any luck with this issue. My 01 Ram 1500 5.0 is doing a similar thing. Replaced the TPS sensor but the error came back about two weeks later. It happens once, then it clears itself after 5 cycles of the computer (turning key switch on / off is one cycle) The only time it comes on now is when I turn on the AC. I'm going to look for a vacuum leak next.

dustyk

The Speed Sensor that sends impulse signals to the Transmission Control and Powertrain Control Modules is located in the tailstock area of the transmission. This sensor is used to control transmission, engine, and some accessories functions. This would be the sensor to suspect if you lose speedometer operation.

Not to be confused with the Front Wheel and Rear Wheel Speed Sensors which are used to control the Automatic Braking System (ABS).

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

Could be a number of things. How many miles?

I would first start with a good tune-up (spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires. There could be a ignition coil problem (reaching saturation), or a PCM failure, or a fuel pressure problem. On high mileage RAMs of that vintage I would suspect the catalytic converter.

Regards,
Dusty

jb10

I am a new member having the same issues described by jster65 in his thread #1779. My truck is a 1998 Ram Ext Cab 1500 Sport 4x4 with 84,000 mi. I jacked the truck up and popped the steering links and both tires move back and forth freely and the steering turns without problems. I put the truck back together and turn a corner and the steering will not correct itself after the turn. Could the ball joints tighten under the weight of the vehicle?? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks. JB

dole

I forgot I even wrote this , its the end of July, still no luck. Just got it back from another shop . They found nuthin. They also claim its the intake gasket.

Any Ideas ?????????

dole

I have a 96 Ram with 240K have the same problem. Seems when I cut the rotors it stops, front wheel shakes violently too with hard braking over 55 mph. Don't have an answer though

dole

Still having trouble with 96 Ram 1500, 5.9 Idle drops to almost 0 then kicks up , gas milage under 9 mpg. blowing light smoke , codes only show voltage spike on o2 sensor, been told its a bad intake manifold gasket. ?????

Driving me nuts !! gas prices ya know

cabot424

I just had a complete tune up. it has 70,000 miles on it. Do you know where the fuel filter is located? Someone said to check it. Thanks.

dustyk

On your year I believe the fuel filter is in the gas tank.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

My first guess would be the dampener or steering rack is defective.

Dusty

ameteur

Did you ever get an answer?

My 2001 started the same thing last weekend, plus no Power windows/locks/seat and the fasten seatbelt light stays on. I have been through every fuse I can find and nothing is bad? Just wondering if there was a fuse somewhere that I am missing before taking it to the Dealer...
Thanks.......................

jb10

Thanks for your response Dusty. I brought the truck to a friends shop. I will mention the dampener or steering rack and let ya know what he finds.
John

dodgegirl

Check post # 1480, it gives you instructions on how to get your truck to tell you the trouble codes. Also, by checking out this site I have found that AutoZone will check and clear your codes for free, instead of taking it to the dealer and having them charge you to check it. Once you get the codes, you can check out this link and it should give you some direction as to what the codes mean. Hope this helps http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm

dodgegirl

rgillespie1

I can see it's been a few weeks since you posted the "no bus" problem. What did your mechanic end up pinpointing as the problem. I am having the exact same issue with my 2000, 2500 ram van and am taking it in for a diagnostic on Monday. Knowing exactly what was malfunctioning with your truck would be a great starting point for me to pass onto the mechanic.

Robert

bloodlan

yes it does....changed the cap and rotor on it but no changes

dustyk

Okay, assuming that the cap and rotor are new within a few hundred miles or so, plug wires and plugs can of course cause this.

Other things to look at are the idle speed motor, vacuum leaks (rubber hoses and intake manifold gasket) and throttle position sensor, although the latter would be my last suspect. If it runs weak and it's high mileage it could be a slipped timing chain. After that, I'd check the fuel pressure and fuel injectors.

If it starts hard but runs fine, you can rule out the catalytic converter.

Best regards,
Dusty

kingbones

I have a 03 dodge quad cab with a hemi 2wd. there is a ticking noise at idle that seems to go away with a little gas. I took the truck to a muffler shop for them to look for a leak none was found i then took it to a local mechanic he couldnt pin point the noise locatin Has anyone had this kind of problem and what was the fix!!! there is no codes poping up :mad:

carlsalt

I have this same problem with my Dodge:
1998 Ram 1500
3.9 liter V6
5 speed manual tranny
and
I replaced the rear speed sensor at the differential.
The dash brake lights went off, but the check engine light is still on.
Of course, the speedometer is not working.
I have looked and do not see a sender at the rear of the tranny.
What I thought might have been that sensor was the backup light switch.
Does anyone care to help?
Thanks,
carlsalt

hawkfan

I'm curious if anyone has any thoughts/experience with a similar issue: clicking coming from front-end, passenger side, seems to be in wheel area. Also, a rubbing/grinding type of sound coming from the same side of the vehicle, particularly when towing a boat (not totally certain it isn't the trailer). Gets higher pitched as speed increases.

Thanks

ramsmagic

I have a '97 1500 5spd. with 165k miles. Recently it started making this clanging/knocking noise while in gear. It sounds like something is loose and banging something under the hood, but I can't find it. I'm still on my 1st trans. but it drives fine and I have no problems shifting. Any ideas?

vics4x4

hi there, I have a 2002 Ram QC 4x4 with 47,000 miles. Last night coming home from out of town, I hit my dimmer switch to dim my headlamps and the horn started going off and my headlights started flashing off and on as if I had a security alarm!! (I do NOT have an alarm or keyless entry or anything like that...). This went on for quite a while and was rather dangerous as it was late and dark!! The horn stopped sounding after a while but the lights kept flashing and eventually they quit that also! What gives with this??? Everything seemed to be working fine by the time I got home, but it was quite nerve-wracking! I didn't have any tools along with me to disconnect the battery temporarily but has anyone else had this problem or heard of it?? Thanks for any assistance, Vickie

lastetson

I've had nothing but problems with my 1500, and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me if I can get Dodge to possibly help pick up the tab for repairing my out-of-warranty lemony joypile. Here are the facts:

:lemon: I bought a '99 1500 Quadcab 4x2 5.9L Sport off the lot in '99.
:lemon: At 18K miles, the transmission had to be replaced after it gave out on the freeway. This was covered under my 36K warranty.
:lemon: At 44K miles, I had to replace the engine bearings, which meant taking the engine out, and of course the car was now out of warranty. That set me back over $2500.
:lemon: As of 4 weeks ago (now at 55K miles), the engine started running rough, and my gas mileage has kept dropping down and now is at a sorry 6 MPG.
:lemon: About one week ago, my speedometer went out, and my Engine/ABS/Brake dash lights came on. I read on this site that replacing the rear differential sensor should fix this one.

So... can anyone advise me on whether and how I might get Dodge to make an exception of some sort and fix this truck before it, I don't know, spontaneously combusts next?

Your help is much appreciated,
LA Stetson

dpence2002

Dole,
I had the same problem on my truck a month ago. Mine was the catalyc converter. I also replaced my o2 sensor. The smoke quit and I'm back to 14 to 15 mpg.
dpence2002

franka1956

I have a 2004 Ram 2500 QC with Hemi that I bought new in Oct 04 and am having the same trouble. At highway speeds when I hit a hole or expansion joint in the road the truck vibrates from the front end terribly, I have to actually stop the truck off to the side of the road to get it to stop this from happening. I have had it to three different dealers and have had no luck, now Dodge has published a three page procedure for trying to fix this problem because they do not know what the answer is either! I am totally disgusted with this vehicle!

purp

Check your u-joints.

01ram1

I have a 2001 3500 longbed quad cab with 37,000 miles, I have the same problem. It has been to the dealer 5 times, they have replaced; steering box, ball joints, track arm, left tie rod, steering shock and I still can't hold it in the road. The truck has been aligned twice by the dealer. I pulled strings from behind the back tires so they would just touch the front sidewall of the back tires. This projects a parallel line by the fromt wheel on each side. The toe in can be measured from the string to the tire (behind the axel and in front of the axel). My toe in was fine but the front axel is shifted one inch to the left???? While driving I have to hold the steering wheel to the left (a few inches out of center) to go staight. There is no way I know of to adjust this, I constantly have to fight the wheel to keep it in the road.My truck is under warranty till Sept. 2006 or 100,000 miles but I cant stand any more 50.00 deductables and Jim Cogdill Dodge in Knoxville TN does not have any suggestions. CAN ANYBODY HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

dustyk

Chassis dynamics aren't my forte, but a couple of questions:

Is this a two or four-wheel drive?

Has this problem been with the vehicle since day-one?

Regards,
Dusty