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Comments
But do get the filter changed and the pan cleaned as well, or have your husband do it after the flush. Sludge collects in the pan and metallic particles collect on the magnet in the pan. Also, while flushing renews the fluid, it can't clean the filter.
That implies a reverse forced flow of ATF in the system. I'm not familiar with this. Many places around here do a "flush" by removing the return cooling line and allowing the transmission pump to bring fresh ATF into the transmission. In these cases I believe they do not remove the pan and change the filter, unless requested.
Best regards,
Dusty
It's actually impossible to backflush anything except the lines and the cooler. Trying to do a pressurized reverse flow on the whole system would initially wash the contents of the filter back into the pan (assuming the pump doesn't block the flow), then fill the pan and transmission to the point where fluid was coming out of the breather.
Actually, I've not come across systems that use the transmission pump to move the fluid. All the machines I know of either use an electric pump or an air pump. However, there always seems to be a reluctance to include dropping the pan as part of the service (surprise!).
I ain't doin too well in this topic...maybe I oughta leave and try where I can do better...
Either of these processes are preferred because the flow rate of fresh fluid is self regulated and guarantees that the transmission will not become overfilled with fresh fluid. Overfilling is potentially harmful since this will cause aeration of the ATF.
Regards,
Dusty
I'd call BS on that (see previous posts). The transmission needs to be flushed in the normal manner by the type of machine described by either Dusty or I, then the pan needs to be dropped and cleaned, and the filter replaced.
You can't wash the filter clean, inside or outside the transmission, and you certainly can't remove the metallic debris from the magnet without physically cleaning it.
Go to a shop that assumes you have some intelligence and treats you with respect.
You got it! I've sure your husband can manage the pan and filter ok, just tell him it's impossible to be too clean when working on a transmission and he'll be fine!
The loud noise is a sign of something wrong!
You've either damaged the teeth on the ring and pinion gears, and/or the differential bearings. There's nothing you can pour in that will repair them, but using a heavier weight gear oil might reduce the noise a little. However, the real fix is a mechanical repair.
Thanks ernie5 :sick:
Thanks ernie5
Regards,
Dusty
thanks.
The following could be reasons for a "No Bus" message:
*A instrument cluster CPU, RAM, or EEPROM failure (includes bad grounds or broken circuits on the instrument cluster PC board)
*A poor or broken PCI data bus connection at the instrument cluster
*Certain instrument cluster fuses may be open
Regards,
Dusty
If that fails, obtain a stethescope and run it along all of the vacuum line with the engine running.
Good luck and best regards,
Dusty
Thank You! ">
Any help is appreciated.
The Jeep Liberty Diesel forum on post 1185 is suggesting the overheating issue might be a RFE545 transmission issue. While another poster was told by DC to add a BG radiator additive to his CRD. Please give us some input in that forum. Thank you.
kcram - Pickups Host
Can someone tell me what the difference is vs regular/normal bearings?
What happens when the bearings need replacement?
Is there a kit that replaces the unitized bearings with regular bearings?
TIA. high-g test driver
Edit: I should have stated that I was talking about a new Dodge.
kcram - Pickups Host
This is begining to sound like a straight ignition problem. Does this motor have a distributor?
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
There is a 5amp fuse inside the inner panel that has no voltage nevertheless I can not find what supplies that fuse with power. This problem begin when some one stole my radio out of the dash.
Any insight would be a major plus, I've messed around with it for a 40 hour work week and I'd like to keep it away from the dealer ($$).
My engine light just came on and won't go off. Engine sounds fine and runs fine too. May be a bit of a spurtting at idle but if there its very small.
First time sense I bought truck that something has come up. Very pleased with it I am.
Any ideas to what this might be? Can't get it into shop to tuesday
Ah that was 70K+ miles
Thanks
Deasun :confuse: