Finally took it to the dealer. The dealer discovered the factory installed the wrong relay in my truck. He said it was a pretty significant diffierence, both visually and functionally. A/C works great now. I was pretty surprised that the factory installed the wrong part. I wonder if it was an honest mistake or they ran out of the right part and installed the wrong part just to keep the line moving? I wonder how many other wrong parts are installed in my truck.
Long story short with blunt details. 98 1500 4x4 5.9L Automatic w/ almost 90k miles. Sat for at least six months and not very well maintained. I am prior Navy and so never had time myself and know nothing about cars. Went to sea alot. I was driving it up a hill, passing someone, hit about 75 and my tran temp light lit up. O/D went off. I stopped waited turned it off. Headed out after awhile and it was fine. Stopped at a gas station on my way home from my ladys house wondering if maybe I needed trans fluid and they didn't have any, got back in truck to go, and it wouldn't grab in Drive. All other gears are fine though. I can start in 1st, goto 2nd, then roll off in drive, but if I come to a complete stop after that, say at a stoplight or sign, I have to shift on the column manually from first and back up again. After a day of that, it stopped moving around alltogether. I drained the fluid, and replaced the filter, now it's back to rollin' around with just that drive problem. I bought some flush, not sure how to do it though, think I have a bad valve body that I am too afraid to try to pull apart to clean since I'm not a mechanic. When I was under there I saw something that looked like a pison maybe? I figure it's a valve body, and it was pretty sticky. Press it in a few times and then it would stay instead of pop back out. Maybe I have it backwords. Any ideas? Thanks guys.
Dusty, My truck has both original fuel pump and catalytic converter. I have changed the Idle control sensor, the map sensor and the TPS sensor. I still do not know what the problem is.
THERE IS AN IN LINE FILTER IN YOUR AC LINE .SHOULD BE CLOSE TO CONDENSER .IT WILL BE INSIDE THE LINE & ITS ABOUT 2 INCHES LONG.IF IT IS CLOGED UP YOUR AC WILL BLOW HOT AS THE FREON WILL NOT FLOW.
HELP! I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Oil changed 3 weeks ago. Driving 65 on the highway: Sudden loss of power, then grinding noise, thought I was out of gas. Parked truck waited 1/2 hour, truck started fine, ran fine then did the same thing, but oil light comes on. No noise at low idle. \But oil pressure looked good: over 1/2. Checked oil NO OIL! Put new oil in, ran fine for 15 min, got it 1 block from house, then loss of power, grinding noise, no accelleration. Checked oil again it was full, checked oil plug and filter, no oil leakage around them. No apparent dripping in my parking space. Oil around rear of engine, but not sure if this is from a spill when i filled it. BUT DEFINITELY NOT 5 QUARTS WORTH. WHERE DID MY OIL GO? Everyone thinks oil change place screwed up. Any ideas? HELP!
Well, it sounds like you're missing pressure to the rear clutch in the drive position. This could be a number of things, most pointing to a real gummy transmission. The manual valve could be stuck or passages clogged. Same for the passages going to the rear servo, 2-3 shift solenoid valve, etc.
You can try the flush, but read the directions carefully. You should be prepared to flush the system out completely after using the flush. Also, do not use Dexron-Mercon ATF. Your's must take ATF+3 at the minimum, although ATF+4 is preferred. I'd replace the filter again after the flush material is drained.
Please help. I have a 1996 Ram 1500, I just put a new jasper engine into it. It runs fine while it is cool. As soon as it warms up while I am driving it, usually within 10 miles, starts to act like it has a vapor lock and quits. If I let it cool down it will start back up and drive some more. I have to keep pumping the gas peddle like it was out of gas. I have plenty of gas. I have changed the throttle control sensor, the TPS sensor and the Map sensor. Does anyone have any ideas? Please help. Thank you.
I have a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500. Recently, whenever I step on the gas, the needle goes down sometimes close to 1/5 of a tank. I am also getting between 20-30 miles less a tank. Does anyone have any idea was might be causing this? I also had the catalytic converter replaced and put dual exhaust on the truck. Now the check engine light is on. I don't want to take this somewhere and be charged $90 just for a diagnostic. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
I have told my dealer four or five times. Last time they replaced a caliper and my rack and pinion unit. It was gone for about a day. I hear it coming from the right front and I swear it is a squeaky bushing. I have had problems with noisy replacement bushings in classic cars. This has to be what it is. I have to go back AGAIN. Or you can grab some silicone spray and spray the bushings yourself. i might just do that. But then i won't get the satisfaction of proving to the service guy that I do know some [non-permissible content removed] and he should listen. Let me know how you get along.
Hey Parsonrik, I have a 2002 dodge ram b1500 van. Today i went to the gym for 1 hr. came out and mine did the same thing as yours except mine made a clicking noise after i turned the key. I have all the lights also on mine, i checked my battery, reset the computer by taking one of the negative lines out of the battery and everything. Have you found a solution to yours and if so, we both may have the same problem. Would you be so kind to shed some light on this matter if you happen to figure out before i do. Or anyone else for that matter. Please help!! :confuse:
I have an '05 Ram 2500 w/ CTD and am ready to do my first oil change. What type and brand of oil is the best type to use, and is an aftermarket filter (Fram) OK to use. Also, what is a realistic oil change interval for that engine. I don't tow anything right now and do a lot of highway miles. The book says every 7500 miles or 15000 miles if you do nothing but highway miles with no towing. I was thinking after the initial oil change to go about every 10k. Is that realistic? Any info would be helpful.
Well, I just let the dealer change the oil on my '03 CTD, but I've heard good things about Mobil 1 - just make sure you get the diesel version, not gasoline. On the other hand I've heard no good at all about Fram oil filters. Check out Fleetguard oil filters instead. I get the oil changed in my truck about every 6000 miles - I have no intention of taking any chances with an $8,000 engine. Finally, check the web for sites like the Turbo Diesel Register to learn all sorts of ways to keep your beautiful truck at it's best, and you'll also learn about BOMBing - Better Off Modified, Baby!
There's been a lot of speculative accusations about Fram oil filters, but I've never seen or read from anyone on the web that recounted an actual problem experience with them. They are, in my opinion, excellent oil filters. I've used them for a number of years and have never had an issue with them. In 35 years of working on or around automobiles I seen a half-a-dozen oil filter related problems, and oddly none were ever involving a Fram.
Check your vacuum lines. Look for obvious cracks or damaged hose. If you have had some service done recently it's possible a line got taken off and not property attached.
Hello everyone, I have a '99 Ram 1500 5.2l and have had a few persistent electrical problems that are getting worse. The electrical system seems a little wonky: my reverse lights flicker on & off, my speedometer doesn't work until after 20mph, and my headlights started randomly shutting down every so often, but coming back on after a while.
Also, my ABS & Brake lights went on due to a bad brake cylinder, etc. and I got that fixed but woud like to know how to turn off the warning lights now. Do I have to have the dealer do that? Any help with either of these would be appreciated!
The information posited on the web being referenced is misleading. The issue of Cummins engine failures occurred on engines using other manufacturers' brands of oil filter, including two types that contained no neoprene. Since then Fram has removed the neoprene sealant from the filter (see Fram bulletin) even though there was never any evidence that the neoprene came from the filter. Since neoprene gasket materials were used on the Cummins engine, there is no reason to automatically suspect the oil filter.
It must also be noted that although Chrysler listed "recommended" oil filters by various manufacturers, it did not nor ever state that Fram oil filters should not be used OR were the cause of engine failures. In fact, in each case documented the recommendation to avoid use of the Fram filter application on the Cummins was offered independently by a handful of Chrysler engine technicians and never had the authority from Chrysler or Cummins to claim Fram filters were responsible for engine damage.
It should also be noted that in at least one case the technician in question was telling customers to avoid use of any Fram product based on the the very poor, inaccurate and simple analysis of filter construction in the referenced web site. This so-called advertised "study" is not a credible analysis.
Nobull if u figure out this problem please post the solution because my 99 dodge ram does the same thing when i fully push the pedal full throttle...me and some buddies that work at a chrysler dealer suspected vacuum leak but couldnt find one. if anything new let me know
i own a 99 ram with a 318 with an auto tranny. i love the truck to death only thing i d trade it for is a 3/4 ton hemi or Cummins the problem i m havin though is when i m on the interstate and the cruise is set and i come to a hill sometimes the truck forgets to downshift to maintain speed. and i have to tap the throttle or click off overdrive for it to downlshift. a related problem is at about 65 if i have the throttle almost to the floor with out hitting the last bit of full throttle the truck wont downshift unless i tap full throttle and and then i let off the throttle a bit and it downshifts. It almost feels like somethings dragging on acceleration too it takes a second for the truck to pick up accelration from a dead stop then it goes fine. Recently i changed the fluid because of the front band actuator strut falling off so the front band is adjusted correctly now...i dont know if maybe i should have adjusted the rear band in the trany also? or if there is a problem with my torque converter. the tranny doesnt feel like its slipping and the fluid doesnt smell burnt. any insite would be welcome
I have a Ram 250 Diesel that has a periodic problem with the power windows. Occasionally, if I turn off the engine with the driver window down, after re-starting the engine the power window button fails to work. Someone once told me a trick to re-activate the system, but I can't remember what it was. Any help out there. The window is down and it's starting to rain! Thanks .
OWN 2003 1500 RAM VAN,5.2L ENG. WHEN IN CRUISE CONTROL/OVERDRIVE, AS VAN BEGINS TO CLIMB A GRADE, TRANS WILL DOWN SHIFT FROM O.D. TO 2ND GEAR AT 60-65 MPH. FACTORY REP SAID NO CURE ( CHIP READS WHAT IT THINKS VAN NEEDS.........) AND TO TURN OFF CRUISE IN HILLS. I SURE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANYONE ELSE HAS EXPERIENCED THIS PROBLEM AND HAS FOUND A SOLUTION??
ALSO, VAN IS RATED (SUPPOSEDLY) TO TOW A TRAILER UP TO 5500 LBS. WHILE TOWING ABOUT 4000 LBS UP VARIOUS GRADES FOUND THAT 3RD GEAR WONT HOLD CONSTANT SPEED AND THAT 2ND GEAR BEARLY SUSTAINS 30MPH. WOULD APPRECIATE ANY IDEAS OF HOW TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE.
I have a new 2005 Ram 1500 with the Hemi. It has a low frequency vibration that fades in and out about every 3-5 seconds and lasts about 2-3 seconds. It's only at idle and turning on the A/C makes it more noticable. It's at the dealer being looked over, but they already told me that's normal. What's up with that!?!?!
Have a 2001 1500 with 5.9 auto. once a month I have to refill overflow tank with coolant. dont see any leaks. Put on new cap.truck runs great. passes emissions test. no steam comming from exhaust. coolant in radiator is not discolored. this has been going on since truck was bought new. Anyone have any clues as to where its going?
Get a fleetguard filter and cut it open. If you don't want to waste the cost, use it first then cut it open. Do the same to a fram, etc. That will answer your question. As for oil, I'd suggest premium blue from cummins/valvoline. Cummins wouldn't spec an oil that didn't protect their engines. You can buy it in large containers at their distributors. I've seen it at walmart in quarts at very low prices too.
I have a 97 Ram 1500, My problem is My dome light will not work. I have changed the bulb, headlight switch. I have power at the light(when checked with a tester) but is constant. The way I get it to work is if I ground it to a screw that holds it up.There is a alarm in truck and the light around ignition comes on with light switch or open door. any help would be cool. thanks. :confuse:
Thanks, I'll try the flush. Don't use the DM, I use ATF+3, I can't find ATF+4 anywhere. I'm guessing if I wanted it I would have to special order it for some reason nobody has it in stock.
I have a 2001 Ram 1500. A few months ago, after shifting out of 4 wheel drive, the 4x4 light didnt go off. It hasnt gone off since. It shifts in and out of 4 wheel just fine, runs great, just that little light is bugging me. Hate to take it to a dealer to have it turned off. Is it just stuck on, or is it a trouble code of some kind? I had to put in a new torque converter a couple months before this happened, but that is the only mechanical difficulty I have had with this truck. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
i have replaced the throttle valve cable and adjusted it properly. Possibly a faulty torque converter?...it feels like something is holding it back on acceleration from a dead stop. like the converter is spooling up like it should. just a shot in the dark
I bought a 2004 ram quad. It was love at first sight. After first service, when I slowed down or came to a stop she would shut off with no signs. Then sometimes the rpm will rise from 500 to 750 and then drop to zero. And now there is a 2-5 second lapse when I hit the trottle. I service her every 3000 miles and she is now at 15000. The dealer says they can not find anything wrong. At high speeds she is great. I need some advise.
Hey I have recently bought an 05 hemi 1500 QC and would like to know how to clip the governor wire. All I know is that it is a green and yellow wire that is near the battery somewhere and that if it is clipped the cruise control will no longer work. Please help me find it and I will post pictures of the process. Thanks
The dealer says they can not find anything wrong.................................... I need some advise.
So, at 3k from new it develops a stalling/idle/throttle delay problem and four sevices later the dealer still can't find anything wrong?
Advice as follows..................either speak to your dealer a little more firmly (as in :mad:) , or find another one that understands how to take care of a simple warranty problem before it becomes an 'out of warranty' problem!
You will only find ATF+4 at a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealership, or at a Mopar parts outlet. Chrysler as not yet certified or license a competitive version of it yet.
I have a '98 that did that for a long time. It used a little coolant but not enough to really worry about. Turns out that my water pump seal was going out and just didn't get bad enough to catch.
hey colt, my truck is doing the same thing, but worse. im hearing a lot of clattering from either the tranny or the engine. im being told that this is normal. i asked what it didn't make the noise when it was new. they said it was because of break-in :mad:
I disconnect the wire harness from that relay and the lights go off, I can turn off and on the lights, I had a problem with that before but the light didn't stay on they were off.
I have a 2000 Ram 1500 w/ the 5.9 and sorry I don't have a solution for you, but letting you know I have the same problem. I am always putting coolant in the overflow container.
not sure if this problem is what you have, but I have a 99' RAM and started here what sounded like the lifters making noise on acceleration. When I checked the oil there was hardly any in there. After the next oil change, same problem. Burned it all. There was nothing in there after 2K miles. Dodge bucked up and told me they have had problems with lower seals leaking. The engine was sucking up all the oil and burning it. I never saw black or even discolored exhaust though. Anyway, just thought I would bring that to your attention.
Andy, I too, have a similar problem. My 99 Ram 1500 just recently in Houston, the ABS brake Valve went out, and with it seemed the Speedometer won't work until 50 mph and up. We changed a sensor on the transmission for it, and it still wouldn't work. Then we changed fuses, no luck...Still no speedometer.
If you find anything out about this problem as in, dash circuitry, will ya let me know too?..Thanks, YamaJin
I have a 99 Ram 1500..My ABS light came on, along with the Brake Light, and The check Engine light. The ABS VALVE is out..It's 500 to get her fixed too....However, if you find that is what happened, I am sure someone can confirm, it means you simply do not have ANTI-LOCK brakes, but you still have Regular Brakes..I have to wait quite a bit for getting mine fixed, so I am just town driving with lower speeds...
Brake Check is a place that will check it for no charge if you don't get it fixed..
I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 4x4. I have the electric switch not the manual shifter, to shift the 4 wheel drive. It shifts into 4 wheel high like a charm, but, I can not get it to shift into 4 wheel low. When I do, the light just blinks on the 4 wheel low setting. The "service 4 wheel drive" light does not come on.
Any thoughts before I shove her into the service bay? And yes the warranty has run out on her.
Comments
My truck has both original fuel pump and catalytic converter. I have changed the Idle control sensor, the map sensor and the TPS sensor. I still do not know what the problem is.
You can try the flush, but read the directions carefully. You should be prepared to flush the system out completely after using the flush. Also, do not use Dexron-Mercon ATF. Your's must take ATF+3 at the minimum, although ATF+4 is preferred. I'd replace the filter again after the flush material is drained.
Best regards,
Dusty
yourself. i might just do that. But then i won't get the satisfaction of proving to the service guy that I do know some [non-permissible content removed] and he should listen.
Let me know how you get along.
Also, what is a realistic oil change interval for that engine. I don't tow anything right now and do a lot of highway miles. The book says every 7500 miles or 15000 miles if you do nothing but highway miles with no towing. I was thinking after the initial oil change to go about every 10k. Is that realistic?
Any info would be helpful.
Best regards,
Dusty
Maybe you should repost it once a month!
Also, my ABS & Brake lights went on due to a bad brake cylinder, etc. and I got that fixed but woud like to know how to turn off the warning lights now. Do I have to have the dealer do that? Any help with either of these would be appreciated!
Thanks, Andy
http://www.fram.com/tech/CumminsBulletin.pdf
The information posited on the web being referenced is misleading. The issue of Cummins engine failures occurred on engines using other manufacturers' brands of oil filter, including two types that contained no neoprene. Since then Fram has removed the neoprene sealant from the filter (see Fram bulletin) even though there was never any evidence that the neoprene came from the filter. Since neoprene gasket materials were used on the Cummins engine, there is no reason to automatically suspect the oil filter.
It must also be noted that although Chrysler listed "recommended" oil filters by various manufacturers, it did not nor ever state that Fram oil filters should not be used OR were the cause of engine failures. In fact, in each case documented the recommendation to avoid use of the Fram filter application on the Cummins was offered independently by a handful of Chrysler engine technicians and never had the authority from Chrysler or Cummins to claim Fram filters were responsible for engine damage.
It should also be noted that in at least one case the technician in question was telling customers to avoid use of any Fram product based on the the very poor, inaccurate and simple analysis of filter construction in the referenced web site. This so-called advertised "study" is not a credible analysis.
Regards,
Dusty
ALSO, VAN IS RATED (SUPPOSEDLY) TO TOW A TRAILER UP TO 5500 LBS. WHILE TOWING ABOUT 4000 LBS UP VARIOUS GRADES FOUND THAT 3RD GEAR WONT HOLD CONSTANT SPEED AND THAT 2ND GEAR BEARLY SUSTAINS 30MPH. WOULD APPRECIATE ANY IDEAS OF HOW TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE.
Another possibility is a punky throttle position sensor.
Regards,
Dusty
I had to put in a new torque converter a couple months before this happened, but that is the only mechanical difficulty I have had with this truck. Any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Brimestone
So, at 3k from new it develops a stalling/idle/throttle delay problem and four sevices later the dealer still can't find anything wrong?
Advice as follows..................either speak to your dealer a little more firmly (as in :mad:) , or find another one that understands how to take care of a simple warranty problem before it becomes an 'out of warranty' problem!
Regards,
Dusty
Does it refuse to downshift from any gear, or just won't downshift from 4th to 3rd?
Regards,
Dusty
my 2003 dodge 4.7L ram is doing the exact same thing, have you come up with an answer? Tim
If you find anything out about this problem as in, dash circuitry, will ya let me know too?..Thanks, YamaJin
Brake Check is a place that will check it for no charge if you don't get it fixed..
Good luck..
Any thoughts before I shove her into the service bay? And yes the warranty has run out on her.