I just found this board and love it! Hate to sound ignorant and jump into the middle of a conversation, but it sounds like your message above could be addressing a problem I'm having with my 91 Ram 150. It's a 318 (5.2L) auto and runs like a champ, using no oil between 3K changes at 85K miles. On a recent trip the odometer stopped working. The trip odometer just zeroed out, although I didn't notice exactly when, and the main odometer is stuck in it's current position. Since these are analogue displays, (old style turning meters) activated by an electric sender, I suspect a sending unit or relay but don't know exactly where to look. I've had the insrtument cluster and odmeter/speedometer out (speedometer still works fine) and the unit itself seems to be OK, but if I manually nudge the trip wheels a bit and re-install it. It zeroes itself out again when the truck's started and doesn't move. I wonder if a wire may have come loose somewhere (where to look?) or maybe a sensor could have gone bad. I cleaned connnections to instrument cluster when I had it out. Thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
My front right wheel bearing just blew out on my 97 1500 at 121000 miles. It supposedly fused to the spindle. Had it towed to PepBoys. $600 for new spindle, bearing, and new rotors.
Failed Inspection for check engine light not coming on when key is turned on. I've checked the fuses, other lights on the dash work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Dusty, Its me again. I did the code check as you suggested(after gauge failer) and came up with these codes from the odometer. 1 900 2 910 3 920 4 950 5 999 Dusty, where do i start? I dont mind buying a sensor and replacing it but i would like to know which one. reguards, partsman2k
I loved my Ram 1500 Quad Cab (5.9L)!!! Until a month ago
In preparation for a busy summer and 10-12,000 miles of towing this summer, I took the vehicle in 4 weeks ago for all the work I thought would need done before the end of summer (Current Mileage 41,000): 1. New front brakes 2. Change differential fluid 3. Automatic Transmission Tune-Up 4. Engine Tune-Up 5. Throttle Body Cleaning
I got the truck back and 3 days later left on a 1500 mile trip, 1 gas fill up and 350 miles later I stopped for the night. The next morning, the truck was idling rough but smoothed out when it warmed up. During the course of the trip this continued to be the routine each morning, as well as a loss of power in the mountains and towing gas mileage dropping 25% after the tune-up.
On returning home, 12 days after the work, the truck was idling extremely rough the next morning with a distinct loss of power and the engine light came on, I spoke with the Chrysler Service at the dealer where it was purchased and service and took it back to them.
Talk about "Blowing smoke", right off the bat I was told I had probably gotten some contaminated fuel. The engine diagnostic showed Multiple Cylinder misfire and "possible dirt" (If I am not mistaken the OBD cannot diagnose dirt). They "pressure cleaned my fuel injectors at no charge, as a goodwill gesture" and told me if it continued that they would have to remove and clean the fuel tank and fuel lines, " costly job".
Guess what, 2 days later the engine was idling rough again with the engine light on. Again I took it back for service, this time it was diagnosed with a bad spark plug (P 0302) and I was told it would be fine.
Whoops!!! 2 days later while getting ready for a 1,200 mile trip, it started idling rough and the engine light came on. Without calling I took it straight to the Service Department and asked for the Service Manager. I took him out to start the truck and explained the recent history. He agreed that it was running rough and took it in to have a mechanic check it.
The OBD Codes were: P0300, P0301, P0302, and P0307, yet it runs smooth as can be on the highway, but with a 25% mileage decrease. The Service Manager as yet say they can figured it out, BUT tried to assure me that it was not related to what they had done, even though it ran beautifully before they worked on it.
It would be hard to imagine the electronics designers allowing for an circuit condition to damage componentry inter-module, but...stranger things have happened. Usually there are too many standard practices in the industry that guard against this.
What might be more likely, I think, is the possibility of a very short but high voltage spike caused by a momentary over voltage condition. This could be from an intermittent component or circuit wiring in the charge circuit.
Of course, there always Murphy's coincidence power. It's happened to me a few times.
02" Ram 1500 pickup. Had a lamp out light come on / off then stayed on. Found I had no park lights but rest worked. Found bad bulb terminal, it melted into bulb base. Replaced, and lamp out was off but still no lights. Relay is OK, fuses OK, replaced light switch and had lights momentarily. It recognizes switch, as dash lights will operate, but no park, tail, license. Got power to relay for lights, but missing signal to energize it? Does light switch complete circuit to ground? I can jumper terminal and will have all park lights but might be a bit dim? Any suggestions??
By the way, I reseated connectors to fuse box and all light assemblies. All looked OK. Is there a way to reset computer control for this if there is one? Would this lock out the lights to say "hey stupid you drove long enough with a bad bulb" " now take it to dealer for repair" I'm missing something simple or it's computer problem? This was just a couple days till I got the bulb.
As for the light switch it is ok, checked it with meter.
Me and my buddy both bought 2001 Dodge Rams from the same dealership in Daphne, Alabama. Mine is a 5.9L and his is a 5.2L. At around 30,000 miles we both started having the identical problems with our trucks. The gas gauge will say we have gas but we dont. Both are trucks are getting worse also. We both run out of gas and our gauges say we have half a tank now. Dodge doesnt want to fix it because we are both past 36,000 miles now. I think that sux, cuz what are the chances of 2 trucks from the same dealership that were bought 2 days apart having the same issue??? Sounds to me like a bad batch of sensors or something. Anyone else having this problem????? Any ideas on an easy fix???
i have a 2002 ram 1500 sport 4x4 and i recently had a dead battery and i replaced it. after replacing it, the service 4wd light came on. the 4wd wont work with the light on. i was wondering if anyone knows how i can turn it this light off
I have a 98 4x4 1500 with a 360 and I think my silinoids have gone out in my tranny. I was wondering if there any way of knowing if that is it or do I have to hook it up to a machine. Thanks for the advice.
Anyone, My ' 96 Ram Dually experieced a "wild" front end shake a couple of days ago when I hit a bump with the left front tire. I was doing about 55 mph and it shook me right off the road getting it stopped. I could't see what was happening but it felt like the left front tire was bouncing up and down at a very fast rate. It would not stop until I actually stopped the truck. Tires are good and I put in new Gabriel shocks about 6 months ago. I can't figure out what is happening....Can anyone give me any suggestions? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, ball3
Only the correct diagnostic tools and procedures can isolate a failed solenoid, and only a ODB3 can pull the Transmission Control Module faults.
By the vehicle description, you have a 46RE transmission. The solenoid pack contains seven or eight solenoids, several switches and sensors. There's at least two other solenoids in the transmission, the governor pressure and torque converter solenoids.
You didn't provide a description of your problem. The problem may not be a solenoid. In '98 the entire Dodge transmission line got a number of important upgrades, including improved solenoids. Solenoid-related problems have been reduced significantly since introduction of the new style solenoids.
You could have another issue. You didn't state how many miles or how it's been maintained, but it is more likely to have a control valve problem nowadays, either binding or sticking. Dirt in the valve body is much more likely to cause you a problem. Unfortunately, valve body removal and cleaning would be required, and of course getting rid of the current fluid with a complete flush.
Use of ATF+4 is mandatory on your transmission, by the way.
Hey i have an automatic 2004 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a hemi, and it shuts off on me when i take a turn sometimes while i gently apply the brake. Everything stalls, the steering locks, gages go down, completely shuts down, then i just have to restart it for it to work again. Ive been lucky with no accidents with it yet but its happened to me 5 times within 6 months, ive heard of one other person with the same problem. Anyone know what it could be or have heard of another dodge doing the same thing??
" Hello and Thanks For Any Help, I have a Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck.A 1999model. I recently took my boat on a trip and pinched the trailer wiring between the hitch ball and the bumper. A 15 amp fuse was blown for the trucks lighting. I repaired the 3 ripped wires and replaced the fuse. I now have no working brake lights. ALL other lights function(hazards,running lights,turn signals). The filaments(both of them) light when the working lighting functions are used. I swapped bulbs with the backup bulb(same number) but still no good. No wires were pulled out from under the rear of the truck, I've checked there anyways and everything looks ok. I pulled the brake switch down from the brake pedal bracket and checked it for continuity on the first 2 tabs and last 2 tabs. According to my Haynes Repair manual tabs 1,2 are for the RWAL/ABS module. Tabs 5,6 are for the brake lights. When I test the switch the continuity changes when the button is pressed in so I'm assuming it is functioning yet the book seems to label them in the opposite direction. I then tested for voltage in the plug feeding the switch. There is 13 volts for one pair but not the other. I inserted a jumper wire into the hot pair but the lights don't come on. Should BOTH of these pairs of tabs(1,2 AND 5,6 have 13 volts fed to them? I have performed a continuity test of every fuse in the fuse block and they all test ok. Is there another fuse for the brake function somewhere else or have I fried some other switch somewhere? Where does the brake light circuit get it's power supplied from-maybe I could look there.I'm not really sure HOW a brake light functions-as the bulb has 2 filaments and they seem to work for the other functions. I have since removed the trailer plug-in wiring. Any Help Most Appreciated, John"
Hello I own a 2004 Ram quad cab. I recently have put a 3in lift on my truck and have put LT 315/70/17 BFGOODRICH tires on it also. Since then my truck constantly is shifting between 65-75 mph when I am on the open highway especially on windy days. It is also hard to maintain 70 mph on windy ways with the constant shifting. I live in Kingsville Tx and drive to Corpus Christi Tx, which is about 40 miles away. During that 40 mile stretch my truck will shift approxitmatley 15 times sometimes even more. I sometimes notice I am going 72 mph at 2600 rpm. I don't know if this is due to the increase in tire size or am I experiencing some type of mechanical problem ? I would appreciate any help in trying to remedy this problem. Thanx
I had my speedometer recailibrated. I had someone suggest more power like a K&N Filter system and throttle spacer. Do you think more horse power would solve or help my problem ? Can I have have the gearing recalibrated for my tire size increase ? Thanx for replying
Apart from more intake noise, I doubt you'll see any appreciable performance improvement from a K&N or spacer unless you drive at full throttle all the time.
Regearing to suit the new tire size is the way to go.
It isn't something that the dealer or local 'all makes' shop will do very often, and you don't want someone practicing on your rear end (if you see what I mean).
Try to find a 4 Wheel Drive specialist, or better still a shop that works on race cars. They'll be doing diff setups on a regular basis. Alternately, check the Yellow Pages to see if you have a driveline/axle specialist in your area.
My 2005 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab while setting on a level surface sits about 1/2" lower on the passenger side rear that it does on the driver side. Has anyone else had a probem with this? I just got this truck(new) and just noticed this today.
A few days ago my brake light and ABS light came on and stay on. Today she kept stalling while slowing down to make a turn and my speedometer does not work until I hit 3rd gear.
My trucks "check engine light" recently came on and I ran out and bought a scanner to find out what the code was and how to fix it. I got the code but there seems to be a pile of possibilities as to whats wrong. The code states "output speed sensor circuit malfunction" and according to my Haynes manual the speed sensor is mounted above the harmonic balance and on a diesel, I have the 5.9L 360c.i. gas model 1/2ton two wheel dr. I also have a mystierous clunk in the rear end that I still cannot locate. I've had the rear cover off twice and have found nothing but gear oil. Back to the code, I can clear it from memory, the light goes out and stays out until I actually drive the truck then in about three minutes it comes back on. Where should I begin my search for the fault?? Any help would be great.
Amongst Ram owners, this is known as "Death Wobble".
In order, you need to do the following: - rebalance or replace your front tires - replace your track bar (4x4) - replace your ball joints
Considering you're piloting a 96 dually which I had for almost 9 years, I'd say it's all of the above unless your tires are under a year old. Your best bet is to find a pro suspension shop that works all day on front ends. The dealer will just use the factory-suypplied parts which will likely go sour on you again. I recommend Moog replacement parts.
i have a 2002 ram 1500 sport 4x4 and i recently had a dead battery and i replaced it. after replacing it, the service 4wd light came on. the 4wd wont work with the light on. i was wondering if anyone knows how i can turn it this light off
hi. i have a new 4.7 with approx 2000 miles on it. at around 55mph i feel a low level vibration in the drivetrain. i put it in neutral while coasting and it disappears...i also rev the engine while in neutral and coasting and no problem..as soon as i engage drive again i feel the vibration. the vibration is probably present at 60mph and above but not so pronounced. any similar problems or advice?
I have a 99 1500 QC 4X4 with the 5.9. Same or similar problem. The brake light and ABS brake light are illuminated. They went on/off for a few days, but now are staying on. Next I noticed the speedo not functioning properly. It doesn't work at slow speeds (<25). Next, the check engine light came on. Engine runs fine. No stalling problem. I think I'm headed to the dealer, but it looks expensive.
PLEASE SEE POST # 1687 AND RESPOND IF YOU RECOGNIZE THIS PROBLEM OR HAVE ANY COMMENTS ON A SOLUTION. I WOULD JUST LIKE TO GET FEEDBACK FROM RAM OWNERS BEFORE I TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. THANKS, 05BEAST
i took mine to the dealer yesterday. that problem(lights and speedometer) was a faulty rear wheel speed sensor. the total cost for diagnostics and replace was 93.00 in MASS.
the stalling was a dirty throttle body which they cleaned. it did not cost as much as i thought it would.
Hi I posted a message a while ago but have yet to hear anything. I own a 2004 dodge ram 1500 hemi. Every once in a while about twice a month for some reason when I take a corner in it, it will completely shut off and the steering will lock up making me end up going into the other lane, or in a ditch! trucks fine then all i have to do to restart it is turn the ignition off and then on, and it works fine again. Ive taken it to the dealership and they had a lady that had the same problem, but they dont know how to fix it, or where to look for the problem. Does anyone know what the problem could be, or has anyone had the same problem?? Thankyou much.
The steering probably doesn't lock up, but without power assistance I'm sure it feels that way. The brakes will also get very heavy if they have to be applied more than a couple of times.
I don't know what the problem is, but I'd initially suspect an electrical connection in the steering column, maybe the actual switch itself. Apart from making a turn, is there anything else these incidents have in common?
on my 2004 Ram Quad Hemi...took it in for its 2nd oil change, first at 1000 miles, now 5K, and every 5K from here out...using Castrol 5W-30 all synthetic with Mopar oil filter...also installed today K&N air filter ($47), will see if it helps gas mileage (who needs more HP with 340 under the hood now?)...wife gets 13-14 mpg with mostly city running...I filled up while she was gone for 5 days, drove mostly highway at 70-80 mph, and the trip computer peaked at 19.9 mpg...not bad for this vehicle, with an EPA sticker of 14 city/18 highway...hope the K&N helps, as it no longer takes $6-8 weekly to fill up, like my Intrepid, but now $18-25 weekly...what happened to 75 cents per gallon gas???...
i have 98 ram 3500 have 90,000 miles have been towing a 35 foot fifth wheel behind it since it was new it has a v-10 my problem is it keeps spinning the bearing on the motor put new motor in at 90,000 drove about 100 miles same thing put another motor in same thing it sitting at a repair shop right now in saint george utah this is my home just want to know is there something else wrong not just the motor what would be causing this
hi dmeents1, i havent had a chance to do anything on my truck to try resolve my similar problem, i also cannot call any codes on dash so i think its my cat convertor. i dont use my truck as my primary vehicle either. let me know how you make out please.
I have a 1997 Ram 1500 5.9L 4X4 that recently experienced a trans failure. Everything seemed fine until a light turned green and as I tried to accellerate the trans began to slip badly and I barely made it into a parking lot. The trans shop says the tranny (a 46RE) failed because the torque converter "exploded", filling the trans case with metal fragments which fried all the solonoids and sensors. I had no indication other than extreme slippage, that anything had gone wrong. Is it possible for this to occur without noise, or damaging the transmission case itself? My repair quote includes a new torque converter and rebuild on the tranny, but nothing about replacing the case. Help!!!!! Is this a legitimate description of the likely problem?
Comments
I just found this board and love it! Hate to sound ignorant and jump into the middle of a conversation, but it sounds like your message above could be addressing a problem I'm having with my 91 Ram 150. It's a 318 (5.2L) auto and runs like a champ, using no oil between 3K changes at 85K miles. On a recent trip the odometer stopped working. The trip odometer just zeroed out, although I didn't notice exactly when, and the main odometer is stuck in it's current position. Since these are analogue displays, (old style turning meters) activated by an electric sender, I suspect a sending unit or relay but don't know exactly where to look. I've had the insrtument cluster and odmeter/speedometer out (speedometer still works fine) and the unit itself seems to be OK, but if I manually nudge the trip wheels a bit and re-install it. It zeroes itself out again when the truck's started and doesn't move. I wonder if a wire may have come loose somewhere (where to look?) or maybe a sensor could have gone bad. I cleaned connnections to instrument cluster when I had it out. Thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Jfoy
Failed Inspection for check engine light not coming on when key is turned on.
I've checked the fuses, other lights on the dash work. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated!
Carl
1 900
2 910
3 920
4 950
5 999
Dusty, where do i start? I dont mind buying a sensor and replacing it but i would like to know which one. reguards, partsman2k
In preparation for a busy summer and 10-12,000 miles of towing this summer, I took the vehicle in 4 weeks ago for all the work I thought would need done before the end of summer (Current Mileage 41,000):
1. New front brakes
2. Change differential fluid
3. Automatic Transmission Tune-Up
4. Engine Tune-Up
5. Throttle Body Cleaning
I got the truck back and 3 days later left on a 1500 mile trip, 1 gas fill up and 350 miles later I stopped for the night. The next morning, the truck was idling rough but smoothed out when it warmed up. During the course of the trip this continued to be the routine each morning, as well as a loss of power in the mountains and towing gas mileage dropping 25% after the tune-up.
On returning home, 12 days after the work, the truck was idling extremely rough the next morning with a distinct loss of power and the engine light came on, I spoke with the Chrysler Service at the dealer where it was purchased and service and took it back to them.
Talk about "Blowing smoke", right off the bat I was told I had probably gotten some contaminated fuel. The engine diagnostic showed Multiple Cylinder misfire and "possible dirt" (If I am not mistaken the OBD cannot diagnose dirt). They "pressure cleaned my fuel injectors at no charge, as a goodwill gesture" and told me if it continued that they would have to remove and clean the fuel tank and fuel lines, " costly job".
Guess what, 2 days later the engine was idling rough again with the engine light on. Again I took it back for service, this time it was diagnosed with a bad spark plug (P 0302) and I was told it would be fine.
Whoops!!! 2 days later while getting ready for a 1,200 mile trip, it started idling rough and the engine light came on. Without calling I took it straight to the Service Department and asked for the Service Manager. I took him out to start the truck and explained the recent history. He agreed that it was running rough and took it in to have a mechanic check it.
The OBD Codes were: P0300, P0301, P0302, and P0307, yet it runs smooth as can be on the highway, but with a 25% mileage decrease. The Service Manager as yet say they can figured it out, BUT tried to assure me that it was not related to what they had done, even though it ran beautifully before they worked on it.
Anybody with a similar problem? or suggestions?
Thanks,
:mad:
Check all of the fuses in the Junction Block.
Check the connectors that connect to the instrument panel (C1 & C2)..
Check the connectors and wiring going to PCM connectors C1 & C3.
Check the connectors and wiring going to the Central Timer Module connectors C1 & C3
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
What might be more likely, I think, is the possibility of a very short but high voltage spike caused by a momentary over voltage condition. This could be from an intermittent component or circuit wiring in the charge circuit.
Of course, there always Murphy's coincidence power. It's happened to me a few times.
Regards,
Dusty
As for the light switch it is ok, checked it with meter.
Gary
My ' 96 Ram Dually experieced a "wild" front end shake a couple of days ago when I hit a bump with the left front tire. I was doing about 55 mph and it shook me right off the road getting it stopped. I could't see what was happening but it felt like the left front tire was bouncing up and down at a very fast rate. It would not stop until I actually stopped the truck. Tires are good and I put in new Gabriel shocks about 6 months ago. I can't figure out what is happening....Can anyone give me any suggestions? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
ball3
By the vehicle description, you have a 46RE transmission. The solenoid pack contains seven or eight solenoids, several switches and sensors. There's at least two other solenoids in the transmission, the governor pressure and torque converter solenoids.
You didn't provide a description of your problem. The problem may not be a solenoid. In '98 the entire Dodge transmission line got a number of important upgrades, including improved solenoids. Solenoid-related problems have been reduced significantly since introduction of the new style solenoids.
You could have another issue. You didn't state how many miles or how it's been maintained, but it is more likely to have a control valve problem nowadays, either binding or sticking. Dirt in the valve body is much more likely to cause you a problem. Unfortunately, valve body removal and cleaning would be required, and of course getting rid of the current fluid with a complete flush.
Use of ATF+4 is mandatory on your transmission, by the way.
What kind of issue are you having?
Best regards,
Dusty
I have a Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck.A 1999model. I recently took my boat on a trip and pinched the trailer wiring between the hitch ball and the bumper. A 15 amp fuse was blown for the trucks lighting. I repaired the 3 ripped wires and replaced the fuse. I now have no working brake lights. ALL other lights function(hazards,running lights,turn signals). The filaments(both of them) light when the working lighting functions are used. I swapped bulbs with the backup bulb(same number) but still no good. No wires were pulled out from under the rear of the truck, I've checked there anyways and everything looks ok. I pulled the brake switch down from the brake pedal bracket and checked it for continuity on the first 2 tabs and last 2 tabs. According to my Haynes Repair manual tabs 1,2 are for the RWAL/ABS module. Tabs 5,6 are for the brake lights. When I test the switch the continuity changes when the button is pressed in so I'm assuming it is functioning yet the book seems to label them in the opposite direction. I then tested for voltage in the plug feeding the switch. There is 13 volts for one pair but not the other. I inserted a jumper wire into the hot pair but the lights don't come on. Should BOTH of these pairs of tabs(1,2 AND 5,6 have 13 volts fed to them?
I have performed a continuity test of every fuse in the fuse block and they all test ok.
Is there another fuse for the brake function somewhere else or have I fried some other switch somewhere? Where does the brake light circuit get it's power supplied from-maybe I could look there.I'm not really sure HOW a brake light functions-as the bulb has 2 filaments and they seem to work for the other functions. I have since removed the trailer plug-in wiring.
Any Help Most Appreciated, John"
Regearing to suit the new tire size is the way to go.
Try to find a 4 Wheel Drive specialist, or better still a shop that works on race cars. They'll be doing diff setups on a regular basis. Alternately, check the Yellow Pages to see if you have a driveline/axle specialist in your area.
Good luck.
Thankyou.
A few days ago my brake light and ABS light came on and stay on. Today she kept stalling while slowing down to make a turn and my speedometer does not work until I hit 3rd gear.
any helpful information will be appreciated
In order, you need to do the following:
- rebalance or replace your front tires
- replace your track bar (4x4)
- replace your ball joints
Considering you're piloting a 96 dually which I had for almost 9 years, I'd say it's all of the above unless your tires are under a year old. Your best bet is to find a pro suspension shop that works all day on front ends. The dealer will just use the factory-suypplied parts which will likely go sour on you again. I recommend Moog replacement parts.
kcram - Pickups Host
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Of course, there are some other things that should be checked, like fuel pressure and gas tank pressurization.
How many miles on this vehicle?
Best regards,
Dusty
fuel pump and fuel are good have already replaced
the stalling was a dirty throttle body which they cleaned. it did not cost as much as i thought it would.
Dusty
I don't know what the problem is, but I'd initially suspect an electrical connection in the steering column, maybe the actual switch itself. Apart from making a turn, is there anything else these incidents have in common?
thanks
aaf
Which bearing, or bearings, are you referring to?