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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions
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I just found this board and love it! Hate to sound ignorant and jump into the middle of a conversation, but it sounds like your message above could be addressing a problem I'm having with my 91 Ram 150. It's a 318 (5.2L) auto and runs like a champ, using no oil between 3K changes at 85K miles. On a recent trip the odometer stopped working. The trip odometer just zeroed out, although I didn't notice exactly when, and the main odometer is stuck in it's current position. Since these are analogue displays, (old style turning meters) activated by an electric sender, I suspect a sending unit or relay but don't know exactly where to look. I've had the insrtument cluster and odmeter/speedometer out (speedometer still works fine) and the unit itself seems to be OK, but if I manually nudge the trip wheels a bit and re-install it. It zeroes itself out again when the truck's started and doesn't move. I wonder if a wire may have come loose somewhere (where to look?) or maybe a sensor could have gone bad. I cleaned connnections to instrument cluster when I had it out. Thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!
Jfoy
Failed Inspection for check engine light not coming on when key is turned on.
I've checked the fuses, other lights on the dash work. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated!
Carl
1 900
2 910
3 920
4 950
5 999
Dusty, where do i start? I dont mind buying a sensor and replacing it but i would like to know which one. reguards, partsman2k
In preparation for a busy summer and 10-12,000 miles of towing this summer, I took the vehicle in 4 weeks ago for all the work I thought would need done before the end of summer (Current Mileage 41,000):
1. New front brakes
2. Change differential fluid
3. Automatic Transmission Tune-Up
4. Engine Tune-Up
5. Throttle Body Cleaning
I got the truck back and 3 days later left on a 1500 mile trip, 1 gas fill up and 350 miles later I stopped for the night. The next morning, the truck was idling rough but smoothed out when it warmed up. During the course of the trip this continued to be the routine each morning, as well as a loss of power in the mountains and towing gas mileage dropping 25% after the tune-up.
On returning home, 12 days after the work, the truck was idling extremely rough the next morning with a distinct loss of power and the engine light came on, I spoke with the Chrysler Service at the dealer where it was purchased and service and took it back to them.
Talk about "Blowing smoke", right off the bat I was told I had probably gotten some contaminated fuel. The engine diagnostic showed Multiple Cylinder misfire and "possible dirt" (If I am not mistaken the OBD cannot diagnose dirt). They "pressure cleaned my fuel injectors at no charge, as a goodwill gesture" and told me if it continued that they would have to remove and clean the fuel tank and fuel lines, " costly job".
Guess what, 2 days later the engine was idling rough again with the engine light on. Again I took it back for service, this time it was diagnosed with a bad spark plug (P 0302) and I was told it would be fine.
Whoops!!! 2 days later while getting ready for a 1,200 mile trip, it started idling rough and the engine light came on. Without calling I took it straight to the Service Department and asked for the Service Manager. I took him out to start the truck and explained the recent history. He agreed that it was running rough and took it in to have a mechanic check it.
The OBD Codes were: P0300, P0301, P0302, and P0307, yet it runs smooth as can be on the highway, but with a 25% mileage decrease. The Service Manager as yet say they can figured it out, BUT tried to assure me that it was not related to what they had done, even though it ran beautifully before they worked on it.
Anybody with a similar problem? or suggestions?
Thanks,
:mad:
Check all of the fuses in the Junction Block.
Check the connectors that connect to the instrument panel (C1 & C2)..
Check the connectors and wiring going to PCM connectors C1 & C3.
Check the connectors and wiring going to the Central Timer Module connectors C1 & C3
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
What might be more likely, I think, is the possibility of a very short but high voltage spike caused by a momentary over voltage condition. This could be from an intermittent component or circuit wiring in the charge circuit.
Of course, there always Murphy's coincidence power. It's happened to me a few times.
Regards,
Dusty
As for the light switch it is ok, checked it with meter.
Gary
My ' 96 Ram Dually experieced a "wild" front end shake a couple of days ago when I hit a bump with the left front tire. I was doing about 55 mph and it shook me right off the road getting it stopped. I could't see what was happening but it felt like the left front tire was bouncing up and down at a very fast rate. It would not stop until I actually stopped the truck. Tires are good and I put in new Gabriel shocks about 6 months ago. I can't figure out what is happening....Can anyone give me any suggestions? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
ball3
By the vehicle description, you have a 46RE transmission. The solenoid pack contains seven or eight solenoids, several switches and sensors. There's at least two other solenoids in the transmission, the governor pressure and torque converter solenoids.
You didn't provide a description of your problem. The problem may not be a solenoid. In '98 the entire Dodge transmission line got a number of important upgrades, including improved solenoids. Solenoid-related problems have been reduced significantly since introduction of the new style solenoids.
You could have another issue. You didn't state how many miles or how it's been maintained, but it is more likely to have a control valve problem nowadays, either binding or sticking. Dirt in the valve body is much more likely to cause you a problem. Unfortunately, valve body removal and cleaning would be required, and of course getting rid of the current fluid with a complete flush.
Use of ATF+4 is mandatory on your transmission, by the way.
What kind of issue are you having?
Best regards,
Dusty
I have a Dodge Ram 1500 pickup truck.A 1999model. I recently took my boat on a trip and pinched the trailer wiring between the hitch ball and the bumper. A 15 amp fuse was blown for the trucks lighting. I repaired the 3 ripped wires and replaced the fuse. I now have no working brake lights. ALL other lights function(hazards,running lights,turn signals). The filaments(both of them) light when the working lighting functions are used. I swapped bulbs with the backup bulb(same number) but still no good. No wires were pulled out from under the rear of the truck, I've checked there anyways and everything looks ok. I pulled the brake switch down from the brake pedal bracket and checked it for continuity on the first 2 tabs and last 2 tabs. According to my Haynes Repair manual tabs 1,2 are for the RWAL/ABS module. Tabs 5,6 are for the brake lights. When I test the switch the continuity changes when the button is pressed in so I'm assuming it is functioning yet the book seems to label them in the opposite direction. I then tested for voltage in the plug feeding the switch. There is 13 volts for one pair but not the other. I inserted a jumper wire into the hot pair but the lights don't come on. Should BOTH of these pairs of tabs(1,2 AND 5,6 have 13 volts fed to them?
I have performed a continuity test of every fuse in the fuse block and they all test ok.
Is there another fuse for the brake function somewhere else or have I fried some other switch somewhere? Where does the brake light circuit get it's power supplied from-maybe I could look there.I'm not really sure HOW a brake light functions-as the bulb has 2 filaments and they seem to work for the other functions. I have since removed the trailer plug-in wiring.
Any Help Most Appreciated, John"
Regearing to suit the new tire size is the way to go.
Try to find a 4 Wheel Drive specialist, or better still a shop that works on race cars. They'll be doing diff setups on a regular basis. Alternately, check the Yellow Pages to see if you have a driveline/axle specialist in your area.
Good luck.
Thankyou.
A few days ago my brake light and ABS light came on and stay on. Today she kept stalling while slowing down to make a turn and my speedometer does not work until I hit 3rd gear.
any helpful information will be appreciated
In order, you need to do the following:
- rebalance or replace your front tires
- replace your track bar (4x4)
- replace your ball joints
Considering you're piloting a 96 dually which I had for almost 9 years, I'd say it's all of the above unless your tires are under a year old. Your best bet is to find a pro suspension shop that works all day on front ends. The dealer will just use the factory-suypplied parts which will likely go sour on you again. I recommend Moog replacement parts.
kcram - Pickups Host
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Of course, there are some other things that should be checked, like fuel pressure and gas tank pressurization.
How many miles on this vehicle?
Best regards,
Dusty
fuel pump and fuel are good have already replaced
the stalling was a dirty throttle body which they cleaned. it did not cost as much as i thought it would.
Dusty
I don't know what the problem is, but I'd initially suspect an electrical connection in the steering column, maybe the actual switch itself. Apart from making a turn, is there anything else these incidents have in common?
thanks
aaf
Which bearing, or bearings, are you referring to?