Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions

workingman2

I consider myself to be a cooperative person. I bought my Dodge with 4 miles on it. Bought the service contract and have had the vehicle serviced perfectly. It is garaged kept and simply put this is a well taken care of vehicle that I drive back and forth to work. In two years I have 26,000 miles on the vehicle. When I hit 3,000 miles I noticed a whining noise coming from the rear end kept getting worse Dodge decided I needed a new rear end. They replaced the entire rear axle. I also began to here a clicking noise from the engine bay. Being a gear head my self I broke out my stethoscope and discovered it is coming from the engine beneath the valve covers on the drivers side towards center of head. Reported to Dodge and got in my opinion a lame excuse. Said it was normal then I called them on it. they took it back and claimed they tightened the headers (exhaust) and I needed to drive it and bring back if continues. Well who really has time for all this!!! Anyway, drove until about 11,000 miles entered the vehicle parked in the garage and placed the key in the ignition. At the right top portion of my overdrive light (the red one above the gear selection) a bright strip of light blew real bright like a light element then burnt out. I noticed a burning smell. Took it Dodge they said they replaced a lamp. No doubt I got the blow off there since it is an LED array. Anyway, to this day the top portion of this display is not working. (No big deal the truck runs ok so I drive) at about 21,000 I get a MIL so back to Dodge. Something about the EGR valve needed cleaned off and reset DTC. Ok sounds fair enough. Now at 26,000 I am driving down the road as normal. I have been noticing over time my shifting has been getting weak almost sounds like it is slipping into gears instead of firm shifting like it used to. I have drove it like this for a while figured I would get the blow off anyway from dealership until last night the electronic throttle control light lite up flashing and truck went into reduced power. Had to shut off and restart to reset only to find it just keeps reoccurring every 5-10 minutes. I took to Dodge today and will be serviced on Monday. Does anyone have this issue? Somehow I get the feeling Dodge is going to blame this on me somehow. Either way it is still a problem and I am clueless on this one. I am not up to speed with the cableless throttle set up at all. Any input? :shades:

daryl4

the rod bearings

dustyk

The term "exploded" implies a violent disintegration of the torque converter. In my experience they always make noise when they do this. However, a torque converter can fail in such a way that produces accelerated wear, such as a vane hitting the outer shell. If just one or two do this you may not hear a noise from inside the vehicle, but that's doubtful in my mind.

Nowadays 46RE repairs in your vintage do have a higher incidence of torque converter failures based on what I'm seeing. In your case I think whatever was going on has cause the ATF to become contaminated with material that it's more that likely your valve body got filled up with gunk and the green light was the end of fluid flow to a shift valve.

Hard to tell with out opening the transmission up.

Ask your rebuilder to make sure that 46RE has all the updates when he does the repair.

Keep us posted.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

The "clicking" sound is likely a noise lifter. This could resolve itself over time (miles), but I would make sure that the dealer has this on record. If it were me I'd push for some kind of resolution now, but in all fairness I've seen some of these go away and never return. Make sure you are using the correct oil. There is an American tendency to use too much viscosity by a lot of people. Use exactly what they call for in your owner's or service manual, which I believe is 0W-20.

The instrument cluster problem should be fixed by the dealer, unless it's out of warranty (not sure from your note).

Your RAM utilizes drive-by-wire throttle technology. I'm not sure about the "throttle control" lamp, but I'm wondering if the speed sensor could be your problem.

In any event I cannot see in any stretch of the imagination how you could be blamed. It doesn't sound like your dealer is service friendly.

Good luck,
Dusty

dustyk

Hmmm. It could be an engine performance problem, like a partially clogged fuel injector or a missing spark.

Regards,
Dusty

mac24

Ok, so 90k on the original engine, then a connecting rod bearing failed. Maybe the crankshaft or connecting rod, or both, were machined at the extreme of the allowable tolerances. Assuming regular servicing and oil changes, it's just bad luck and nothing do with your driving or the load you're pulling.

So, you now have a 'new' engine fitted. Was this a genuine new 'crate motor', or a rebuilt engine, or a remanufactured unit? There's a big difference between all three.

Now this engine has failed after only 100 miles, but I see no connection between the failure of the two engines at all. If the second engine also has a connecting rod bearing failure, it can be nothing more than a amazing concidence. Unless you failed to put oil in it there's nothing you should be blamed for.

Make sure to post the result of the inspection by the shop it's currently in. This should almost certainly be covered by the warranty on the engine.

mac24

Just as Dusty said, not your fault.

You paid for your your warranty as part of the initial cost of the vehicle, so make sure you get value for your money (and get them to fix the faulty display, it's there for a purpose).

dustyk

"LA" series engines most certainly don't have a reputation for puking main or rod bearings, or for that matter, anything catastrophic at all. Over the life of these engines (since 1964) the worse is an intermittent history of punky timing chains and weak intake manifold gaskets on earlier Magnum engines. Both the lower and upper ends of an LA engine are solid as a rock. Of course, since humans are involved it doesn't mean that a boo-boo can't happen.

Regards,
Dusty

crttrsttr

I didn't see on here where anyone responded to the problem of the lights for brake and ABS go on and off I just bought my truck last week it is a 2000 2500 sport 4x4 put new brakes on it and the fluid levels are all correct I have no manual as it takes 2 weeks to get it any help would be welcome
Cathy

crttrsttr

I didn't see on here where anyone responded to the problem of the lights for brake and ABS go on and off I just bought my truck last week it is a 2000 2500 sport 4x4 put new brakes on it and the fluid levels are all correct I have no manual as it takes 2 weeks to get it any help would be welcome
Cathy

dustyk

Cathy,

Do the ABS and Brake lamps come on just when you press on the brake pedal?

Regards,
Dusty

crttrsttr

no they come on after you get going and go off it seems when it gets warm like a couple miles down the road

mac24

.........I have no manual as it takes 2 weeks to get it............

You might want to take a look at AllData for online access to the Factory Service Manual (FSM).

marsha7

I have been reading for years the phrase "drive by wire" throttle control...what does it mean and how is it different from the "old" style of throttle control?...thanks...

mac24

Traditional throttle: There's a mechanical connection of some sort between the pedal and the throttle body or carb, usually a cable or rod(s).

Drive by wire: The pedal is connected to a sensor (usually a rheostat) which signals the vehicle's 'computer' to open the throttle and inject more fuel. There's no physical connection between the pedal and the throttle body.

daryl4

thank you that is what i thought more to come

daryl4

thank you

mrbill

Can anyone tell me how to remove the Tilt lever on the steering column in my 2004 RAM Quad cab. I need to remove the steering column shroud, but cant get the lever off to finish removing it. Looks like it slides on but how do i release it?? Short of buying a manual someplace.. help would be appreciated here..
Thanks
Bill

dwhane

I have a 95 dodge 1500 when you engage the overdrive switch on the dash it blows the fuses. I was out of town when this happened. So I installed a toggle switch to engage the over drive. This works. But my question is this what are the purpose of the color coded wires that plug into your overdrive switch. I did a ohm check on these wires. the green wire has 12 volts running through it, the orange has no current and the brown is a ground. It you supply power to the orange wire it engages the overdrive but you have to switch it off because the truck stays in O/D.
If you us the green it blows fuses. Any idea's??????
I had the tranny rebuilt and the shop is saying it's the switch I can't keep doing the guessing game it is getting way to exspencive.

dustyk

The Brake lamp is illuminated when the parking brake is applied, there's a communication error from the Anti-lock Controller Module, or there is a malfunction in the hydraulic brake system.

The ABS indicator lamp will illuminate anytime there is a fault condition or malfunction with the ABS braking system.

Since you are getting both indications on the instrument cluster, I believe you are registering an intermittent ABS fault of some kind. This could be something as simple as a defective wheel speed sensor, either rear (2wd base ABS), or front (4-wheel ABS. Your dealer should be able to retrieve a fault code from the anti-lock brake controller (CAB).

Regards,
Dusty

workingman2

Dusty Workingman2 here. I read your post and followed up with Dodge today. I live in Panama City Beach, Florida and I will just say this your comment about service friendly is accurate. Yes I am still in the warranty period. And the vehicle was serviced today. The elect throttle problem was cured by reflashing the computer. I brought up the ticking noise and took the time to trouble shoot myself.. I took my mechanics stethoscope (3'-00" hose) ;-). And located the ticking noise. The ticking noise is emanating from the valve cover towards center of head drivers side. Slam dunk I think! It is scheduled to go back in Monday next. I have also had a pithany. The truck has had a rough idle condition over the last say 2000 miles or so. In this time frame the tick has gotten louder. I think there is a connection there. If a valve is dropping due to lifter reduction this would cause a studder in idle would it not? Then once rpms are up and oil pressure is restored the nooise goes away and truck runs like a champ. As far as the oil is concerned. I bought the service plan and Dodge dealer handles the oil change for me. So one can only assume they are doing the right thing. However I may get a little nosey since this discussion. During my next sceduled maintenance. One other question. I am a GM gearhead built a few strokers and circle track mototrs in my day. That said, is it necessary to replace the plugs at 30,000? I would prefer to just ohm out the plugs varify they are still good, clean them gap them then put them back in. It works in other motors why would'nt it work in a Hemi right! Your input is appreciated. :shades:

marsha7

is what we used to call the carburetor linkage, that mishmash of rods with joints that started at the gas pedal, ran up the engine to the top of the intake manifold, and then had a few rods, easily bent, that opened the butterflies of the 2 or 4 barrel carbs by stepping on the gas pedals...correct?

iowabigguy

The manufacturers maintenance schedule says replace, not clean and re gap. If you look at the task involved with replacing all 16 spark plugs and plugs being under $2 apiece why would you not want to put in new plugs? Rick

mac24

Correct, although sometimes it was a sheathed cable. Nowadays, it works more like a volume control.

kwarren2

..in my industry we call this an added "failure mode". I personally don't want throttle, brake, or steer by wire. Mechanical connections with fail-safe (as in, sprung return to closed throttle) mechanisms are the way to go in my opinion.

mac24

We're a long way down the road I'm afraid. We have transmissions that are controlled electronically and hydraulically, electrically assisted steering, vacuum assisted brakes, a computer controlled combustion process, etc., etc.

It's partly the inevitable advance of technology, and partly the reduction of costs. It's a two edged sword that dramatically increases reliability, but makes it much harder to diagnose and cure the problems that do arise.

idaho4x4

Did you ever get this straightened out? I got the same problem on my 01 1500 Ram 360 with 75,000 miles. never had anything go wrong but half-way to work it began to idle rough and died (it's an auto) then i fired it back up and it idled horribly shook like harley! i got the P0300, P0306, P0308. I can definitely tell the 6 and 8 cylinder are not firing because of the drastic loss of power. I didn't take it to highway speeds but once it's warmed up and going around 30-35 it appears to smooth out a little, but it's still not right.

oh by the way i have never gotten 350 miles on a tank before! i usually get around 200-220 city or highway!

kwarren2

Actually steer and brake by wire will require the addition of components and systems whose sum reliability, in my opinion, could never surpase basic mechanical linkage reliability... not to mention cost increases. These are critical systems whose failure can result in a catastrophic result. However, the argument will be made that an integrated control system (as in true fly by wire) could make "smarter" more accurate decisions in split second time-frames that would increase safety.. Of course, when coupled with the rush to deliver a product in a very short time-frame and the massive amount of software q&a required you can bet this would be a recipe for disaster. Maybe Nader will come and save us from our own preference! Actually, I'm off topic for this forum I'll shut up.

jreednd

Hi,

I have read a couple messages in here and feel my problem might be similar to a couple of others I have seen, but I wanted to make sure no one had heard of this specific problem.

Last few days, going from a standstill up to ~15/20 mph, my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 (5.9L) will stay in first, going all the way up to 3000 rpm before it shifts into the next gear. I checked the tran fluid and it is full. This has never happened before and now happens every time. It started immediately after having the oil changed.

My guess is that they potentially put something other than ATF+4 in. Any other possibilities out there anyone can think of?

mac24

It started immediately after having the oil changed...........

When troubleshooting I always look first at the last thing that was worked on. Putting the wrong fluid, when only ATF+4 is supposed to be used, is not at all uncommon.

jreednd

Just got back from the shop, they told me they did not change the fluid. They told me that transmissions don't gradually go out, they usually will be sudden. That's fine and all but it is just too coincidental that this started immediately after the oil change.

I'll be taking it too a tranny place today...my hope was there would be something small the quick shop missed. Not wanting to get a replacement. They said Dodges are bad for trans, but everything I have read on this board tells me they are pretty good.

mac24

They told me that transmissions don't gradually go out, they usually will be sudden...............

All I can say, is that my experience is totally the opposite to theirs. :surprise:

hpspringer

Almost hate to say what I have to here!!!! BUT HERE goes.

Well to pick up where I left off in the previous message, Compression on cylinders 2 and 7 was 25% under the other cylinders and # 1 was almost 25% under.

The Service Manager made a few phone calls before telling me the news, remember I am out of warranty.

From the Service Manager, I heard, "I have good news and bad news! You have a least 3 burnt valves and 2 bad fuel injectors, BUT I have talked with 5 people at Chrysler and they have agreed to pay for the out of warranty repair and a loaner for you during the repair."

When I questioned him as to how this would happen with all the recommended mainenance being done and serviced by them. He told me that it was far to new of a vehicle for this to have occurred and that is why Chrysler has agreed to pay for it. He told me to go ahead with my trip and the would get the parts in and do a valve job and other necessary repairs when I returned.

Meanwhile I took it to 2 other independent shops I have dealt with in the past. In both shops the OBD Codes were: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0307, and P0442. Three mechanics in the 2 shops said that they had never heard of burnt valves at that low of mileage and also questioned as to why "Chrysler was willing to pay for an out of warranty repairs, such as this."

Finally getting it into the garage for repair, I get a call 2 days later, they are going to need it awhile longer... Seems the heads were damaged more than expected and they had ordered two (2) COMPLETE new head ASSEMBLIES!!! But they were on back order.

When I questioned the Service Advisor as to why such an extensive repair, he told me, "that on talking with Chrysler they found out that Chrysler was aware that a problem existed in some heads in this engine. He further explained that, according to Chrysler, “there was a fault in some casting moulds that caused a flaw in the head casting which could develop into a hairline crack.” That the codes (OBD) that were recorded from my engine matched the codes calling for a check for burnt valves. When the Mechanic got into the heads he saw their were more problems than the had apparently though and had then called Chrysler and found out about the fault and flaw which could lead to a crack.

My guess is since both heads have the same part number is that the same head is used on both side and mirror each other, thus explaining why it was the first cylinder on one side and the last cylinder on the other side.

Another Service Advisor, when I was in later commented about "the heads being totally destroyed beyond repair."

Have your dealer check with the Chrysler Star Hotline.

To quote what is recorded on my Invoice...

"Cust states SES light is back on and idle is rough"

"Verified Concern. DRB III TST, Driveability Test. #2 and #7 cylinder misfire. Tear down for inspection. Heads cracked between seats per STAR HOTLINE. Valves Burned. Replace heads per STAR HOTLINE, Replace Fuel Injectors."

Oh yeah, and I have gotten over 350 miles out of a tankful, of course that was non stop interstate miles, but still wasn't shabby.

:lemon:

idaho4x4

WOW! That is an incredible story! I am a little nervous that my plan to replace distributor, wires, etc won't help me much now. What year is your pickup by the way? Mine is 01 but I have 75k worth of highway miles on mine. I think i will get the dealer to look at it either way. I will defintely print this post and take it in to them. Also what dealership did you take it too?

slhdb

I replaced the fuel injection pump on my 1999 5.9 turbo diesel 6 cyl. ,part cost me
1,130.62 included shipping from a diesel parts supplier in Orlando,Fl. had to send
back the damaged pump inorder not to be charged the $500.00 core charge,they
gave me a return sticker,must be returned before 30 days.Had a friend replace the pump
for 460.00 labor. The fuel pump failed and it was replaced it cost $240.00 andlabor,friend
charged me $40.00 labor for that. My understanding is that the fuel pump failure
caused the fuel injector pump failure also? At the time of the failure the truck would not
accelerate over 15 miles an hour.My Dodge Cummins warranty is 5 years or 100,000 m
I had 94,600 but out by years, otherwise the fuel injection pump would have been covered under the warranty

dustyk

Actually, I agree with you.

Drive-by-wire in automotive applications is present primarily because of cost. The cable hardware is more expensive now than the stepper motor, wiring, potentiometer, and associated PCM componentry. In all fairness, there may be other reasons that the engineers wanted drive-by-wire, such as controlling throttle position time in order to control emissions.

Best regards,
Dusty

hpspringer

idaho4x4,

My Ram is a 2002 (Actually built July 2001) and is same engine as yours with 41,000 miles..

At this point, I am hesitant to post the dealer's name as I have only had it back a couple of days and already had to take it back for 2 vacuum leaks.

I do know that it was the combination of the Multiple Misfires and the loss of compression that caused the Chrysler Start Hotline to authorize the original valve replacement and the subsequent replacement of both head assemblies. I was told by more than one Service Advisor that the local dealer "had just found out that Chrysler was aware of the fault and the potential for the development of cracks in these heads."

slhdb

My 1999 Dodge Ram w/ Cummings 24valve turbodiesel has a 4-5 inch crack in the block.Began with a very slow coolant loss, looked for possible coolant problems and found none. In my research I was introduced to other owners of the #53 block w/ the identical problem.Daimyler-Chrysler would not budge to honor any warranty w/ my 5 yrs.or 100,000Cummins Diesel Engine Limited Warranty, it is out by years not mileage (had 94,600 approx.). I contacted Cummins Powermaster for help and suggested I take the truck to Tampa Southeastern Cummins, they installed coolant dam pressure test and verified the coolant loss from the crack in the block passenger lower side,below exhaust manifold and below core plugs(No determination of cause). I contacted Chrysler again and they rejected my request to fix the problem. Cummins offered to replace the block but I would be responsible for labor etc. in the ball park of $4,500. Cummins admitted to me that they are now seeing problems with the #53 casting ISB blocks. And I read idaho 4x4 got Chrysler to do out of warranty repairs. Need help in Florida!!!

idaho4x4

Yeah they are probably going to stick it to me with my 76k miles then! I had them run codes again today and i think all but cyl 1 reported a misfire!
I got new gas and added injector cleaner - no help
I replaced the distro cap and rotor - no help
I checked spark on several plugs and it was ok although there seemed to be a lot of carbon for only having the plugs in there 6-8 months and probably only 5k miles.
I had an idea that maybe i needed to reset the truck so I disconnected the battery and then the check engine light went away but now it stalls everytime I stop. I guess the engine management system was barely keeping the sucker alive before!
I have probably only driven 15-20 miles since this whole thing started.
I guess I'm ready for the dealer to take a look

dplante

We have a Dodge Ram 2500 V-10 4x4 in very nice condition and low miles (80,000). Truck starts but soons starts to idle rough, eventually stutters and stalls. The problem was diagnosed as the Ignition Control Module (attached to the 4-coil pack) This part was evident on the 1994 only and was eliminated on the 1995. The part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and we have tried for three months to find a part on the aftermarket with no luck. The manufacturer is not even sympathetic. With the plow assembly and all the bells and whistes this was an expensive vehicle and we certainly expected it to last for more than 80,000 miles. We hate to junk it because of a $150.00 part - does anyone know if this part can be by-passed - or has anyone encountered this problem? This site describes many of the problems we have encountered with this vehicle; ABS light problems, revving, etc.

daryl22b

Hey, have you found out anything on your problem with the Brake Lights...
I am having the same problem with mine and the Dealer said it was a wiring problem, and would have to trace all the wires. But the problem seems like a module or relay to me, all my wiring looks good... I also was using mine with our jet-ski... But mine has no blown fuses, and all other functions work as well...
Thanks for any info... Daryl... :sick:

jreednd

All I can say, is that my experience is totally the opposite to theirs.

I have a bad feeling that the knowledge about transmissions at that shop is about as bad as mine - which is not good. Thanks for your insight mac24!

On another note, my truck just stopped revving up to 3000 RPM in first gear before shifting. It's acting pretty normal now. I am perplexed. :confuse:

dan36

I have a 2001 Ram 1500 with 29,000 miles. When I take off, the tranny stays in high, so the accelleration is sluggish. When up to speed it is fine, but taking off it will not 'automatically' down shift to 1st and shift thru the gears. If I manually shift to 1st, 2nd and into high, its shifts great. any ideas? The transmission shop said it doesn't need a new tranny, they're not exactly sure what it might be. ........

dustyk

A little more detail is needed on your problem.

Does the transmission start in first gear if you manually put the transmission into the low ("1") position?

Regards,
Dusty

kadsr1

The faceplate is held to the dash with metal clips. Just slide a plastic scraper in between the plate and the dash and pry towards you. should pop loose. No screws. about 6 or 8 clips.

fulleton

I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on what to do. Heres the problem.. I have a 1994 Ram1500 V8 Magnum 4X4 Automatic with 157000 miles. When driving down the freeway the truck constantly shifts in and out of overdrive. When I take off from a dead stop like at a light or something it feels sluggish like I am in 2nd gear. My check engine light just came on but havent got it coded yet. I am active duty Air Force and dont have a lot of extra time or cash to throw into a whole new transmission. Any suggestions would be grately appreicated. Thanks ~Roy

mac24

Without knowing the result of checking the code, any guess would be speculative at best.

At 157k it wouldn't be surprising if the transmission needed overhauling, even if it had been correctly serviced throughout its life.

Has it been correctly serviced throughout its life?

kamu

Dusty I need help! Here is my problem. I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.9 liter. It will stall every so often while driving or idling, and the no bus message will show in the odometer. When it does quit sometimes it will start right away and other times it will take about 20 mins. to start again. I have done the walking test and I get and codes 920, 921,and 999. I have started the truck and wiggled and jiggled every connection that I can find and can not get the truck to stall. it seems to do it when ever it wants to. I have noticed that when it does quit the fuel gauge and temp gauge will not work when I cycle the key. When the fuel gauge works again I it will start again. I even removed the instrument cluster and the truck would still start so I do not think my problem is there. I think it is the PCM but i do not want to spend $570.00 the dealer wants for one and still have the same problem.

jerseybiker

I had the same problem. Pull the output speed sensor from rear of tranny and clean it. Also change tranny fluid and filter. Make sure to use the right fluid as I read it was crucial. I don't remember what it was though. Sorry.

kingfishtb1

Hey Hi you doing.

My lights came on and stayed on last night June 11,2005. Have you found out any thing yet.