I think someone there is confused. The 24v engine still use the same VP44 pump, there is just a reman that is about 1/2 the price of a new one. The only part we are having a lot of trouble with the the transfer (electric) pump which is mounted about your starter. They have made a new one that takes the place of that and moved to it to inside the fuel tank. The pump will work easier pushing fuel instead of the old pump trying to pull fuel from the tank.
had transmission worked on , they said they put a new torque convertor in it and added more clutches this a automatic in a 2001 doge 3500 with a diesel engine it takes a long time after start up for it to engage also it shifts real hard ?? dusty do you know what could be wrong ?? thanks
Well, you have a 47RE. Aside from the simple things, gearshift linkage broken or out of adjustment, low fluid level or clogged filter, it could be a failed pump, a valve body malfunction, a broken internal part (sun gear, input shaft, etc.), or...a bad torque converter. Hard to say. Can you give me more details?
If this transmission was worked on, isn't the shop fixing this for you? Adding more clutches and using different planetary gears sets are not uncommon for certain rebuiders, but that will not solve basic problems.
just bought a 05 diesel and have a question about shutting down the vehicle. When i turn the truck off there is a loud screeching sound. like a clutch or something, is this normal with the cummins.
2004 Ram Quad Hemi on a road trip of about 900 miles...in the city, wife gets about 13.2 mpg commuting about 5 miles each way...the extended mpg, with AC always on, hilly country of GA, AL, MS (before the hurricane), speeds of 70-80 highway, she achieved about 18.2 mpg overall...not bad...truck now has 8K miles on it, purchased last November...maybe the mpg will improve as engine is further broken in, wouldn't that be nice...and we have the 3.92 rear, not the 3.55...
My 04 Crown Vic, OTOH, with 26K miles, cannot break 22 mpg, even tho the sticker said 25 mpg highway, and I know of folks with Town Cars who get 28 mpg highway...maybe I need a new DTS Northstar... :shades:
I have an O1 Dodge 3500 with Diesel Engine. I have not had any problem with my truck until it reached 98K miles. I now have 106K. Here's the problem: it starts fine and runs fine but when I try to go it starts slow and won't get over 20 mph for up to a mile. Then suddenly it will start driving right. When I get up to 50-55 or 60 mph and am driving normally, suddenly I feel what appears to be the transmission bump and it feels like it goes between overdrive and 3rd gear and the truck starts losing speed. It will lose speed down to about 35 mph then kicks into passing gear and goes back up to 55 or 60. This may occur 5 times on a fifty mile trip or maybe 50 times. When this occurs pressing the accelerator makes no difference. I went to the Dodge Dealership in Minden, La. and their only diesel mechanic told me my fuel transfer pump and diesel injector pump were both imploded. He wanted $2600.00 to repair them even though the truck would start and run fine. He put on a fuel transfer pump only, Charged me $500.00, and the truck still runs fine just like it did before I went there. As I came home the truck still has the same problem with losing speed on the highway. It doesn't matter if I am using cruise control or not. The problem has steadily gotten worse and worse since it began happening. I went to a transmission shop and they checked out the transmission and said there is absolutely nothing wrong with the transmission. Paid $50 for that. I went to a diesel truck repair place and their top diesel mechanic checked it with his computer and said the throttle position sensor was out and it was causing the computer to give me several other trouble codes. They checked my diesel injector pump and all my injectors and said there is no problem with my injector pump or the injectors. I have clean oil and air and fuel filters. I was advised to replace the throttle position sensor. I did that myself at a cost of $495.55. Very easy to change out. The truck still has the same problem of losing speed and slow to take off for up to one mile. I took it back to the diesel truck mechanic shop and he reset all the trouble codes and recalibrated the bell crank to the ECM but this still did not fix the problem. I've spent several hundred dollars now trying to find the problem but NOBODY around 100 miles of Shreveport can seem to tell whats wrong with my truck! Even the Dodge Dealerships have said they are just guessing. I am disabled and cannot afford them to continue swapping out $500 parts at my expense while guessing at trying to find the problem. Since the one Dodge Dealership mechanic obviously lied to me and tried too fleece me for $2600.00 I am now scared to go to any Dodge Dealer for service and still can't afford to give them my truck carte blanche to learn how to work on them with. Their mechanics appeared to have just gotten back from a 3 day drunk with their coffee and cigarettes in their hands and dirty wrinkled clothes at 8 o'clock in the morning! I thought they may have just gotten out of jail somewhere. Would you trust your truck to someone who looked like that? I am in hopes that someone else may have had this mechanical problem and can shed some light on the subject. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I depend on my truck to go to the doctors and pharmacies that I have to go to. Thank you so much for reading my problem and if you can help please write me back. I'm at my wits end with my Dodge truck! Lee Stuart, Haynesville, La.
Hello, I don't have an answer and was hoping maybe someone out there does as I am experiencing the same problem. Yesterday I hit a pothole and thought I was going to wreck before getting my 98 Dodge Ram 1500 to stop which was the only way I could get the violent shaking to end. The steering wheel felt as though it was going to be snatched out of my hands. After getting out and checking everything I continued to drive it without any further problems until this morning when after going across some railroad tracks it happened again. Neither time this happened was very enjoyable so I decided I better have it looked at by a professional. After they looked it over and could not find anything but a little play in my Idler Arm and Pittman Arm they suggested I have it replaced. Before I shell out the $300+ for that with no guarantee that it is really the problem I wanted to see if anyone has had any similar experiences and maybe an answer as to what is going on.
Thanks - I replaced the differential speed sensor and all is well again... The new sensor has a larger mounting bracket and a new short wire cable. $41 at the dealer...
it is a normal condition. What happens is with the high compression of the motor when you shut it off the engine will stop and the belt will still move some and that is what makes the noise.
I would think your dodge mechanic was right, It sounds like you have a bad, injector pump. Seen the same problem a few times. The Last truck i had with this problem, it would start fine but you could not bring up about 2000 rpms and it would just smoke. If you started to drive it, it would drive fine on a flat road but would not pull a hill. Replaced the injector pump and fixed the problem. I think if you take it back to your dodge dealer and talk nicely to them they might help you out, The injector pump is covered under warranty for 5 year, 100k Miles. Or call DamilerChrysler and see if they will help.
I've got a 1999 Ram 2500 that starts up immediately but as it idles it begins to get a slight rough idle going. I drive around the corner and stop, the rough idle continues and upon acceleration I have bad hesitation / missing to a point where it seems like the truck will die. After the truck warms up it seems to run fine. Already gave truck a full tune-up, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, all genuine Mopar parts. I'm thinking vacuum leak but the manifold gasket has already been replaced. Any thoughts?
I have a 97 5.9L and had the same issue of rough idling and stalling when I first bought the truck after it had sat for several months. A check of the throttle body revealed a bunch of "crud" built up inside. A 10 minute session with a can of Gumout with the engine running and then a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas tank did the trick for me. Within a couple of days it was purring like a kitten.
Thank you Mr. Kilster for your message. I will take it back to them. My truck has not had a problem pulling a hill except for when it begins to lose speed. It makes no difference whether I am on level road or not when this occurs. The engine doesn't produce excess smoke of any color when this problem occurs. All indicators are that it is my injector pump. I have over 100,000 miles on it now so it isn't under any warranty. I've made an appointment to take it in Monday. Thank you again for your advice. I do really appreciate you! Stuart
Thanks, but I forgot to mention that I had the dealership perform a fuel injection cleaning which they claim includes a throttle body cleaning as well. I thought between the injector cleaning and the tune-up, this issue would have been history.
I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 And my fog lights are as high as my highbeams. I was wondering how to adjust them to be lower. I took a quick look at it and couldn't find the adjustment screw. thakns.
Has anyone noticed a moaning/whinning noise from the A/C when you accelerate? The higher the RPM, the higher the pitch of the whine. When I turn the A/C button off it stops. Took it to dealer, and of course they couldn't identify the problem. Also, my transmission seems to have a mind of its own. Sometimes it shifts smooth, and sometimes it shifts hard. It especially jolts when you give it a little gas, but start coasting downhill towards traffic and then it downshifts really hard. Dealer replaced drivetrain and it did nothing. Also the truck rides real rough. I know it's not supposed to ride as smooth as a car, but it's real rough. Any of you have these probs?
thanks to all! it was the positive battery terminal, it had come loose on the aux side and was sparking sending eratic electrical noise to computer. unfortunately i didnt see this post before i carried it to the stealer so they got me for 93.00 for a new cable end. but hey , at least i can go ahead and contine saving for when the tranny does go again.
I wonder if the rear fenders on a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500 truck are easy to remove - they seem to be attached by bolts to the truck bed. I want to know that, because I want to be able to drive the truck into a 8 ft. wide container for shipping overseas. Any idea? Thank you.
The dually fenders are attached with perimeter adhesive as well as the hard mounts... plus you have the clearance light wiring to deal with. Doable, but definitely not simple.
I noticed this weekend while driving down my driveway (low speed) what sounded like something metallic dragging on the ground. Upon inspection nothing was dragging, but the sound appears to be coming from the rear axle, drive train area. The best description I can come up with is like a rock-tumbler type sound.
At higher speeds and acceleration everything seems fine. It is just low speeds that it is noticeable.
Does anyone have any thoughts as to what might be up?
If I tried to remove them, would the perimeter adhesive stick to the paint and thus some of the paint get peeled off or spoiled somehow, or this adhesive is more like a silicon paste that stays flexible and could be safely removed off the paint? Thank you.
Did you ever find anything out on this. Same thing happened to my 99 ram 4x4 last week going through WVA last weekend. If you do please let me know. Thanks.
Most Dodge parts that are held this way (such as moldings and badges) use two-sided heavy duty tape. It's really not there to "support" the fender, as the metal mounts take the weight.
My ABS lite came on and I read the repair manual which said to ground the abs connector to view the flash codes. The flash codes does not work when I do this. (2000 Ram 1500, 2 wheel drive, RWAL) Do I have the wrong connector or is this the wrong test procedure. Note: the connector is located below the cap module (two wires going to the module)
I'm hoping someone can help with this one. I have a 98 ram 2500 with approx. 93k miles. Every once in a great while it would start bucking, like it wasn't getting gas, I would pump the accelerator for a time and then it would start running fine. Recently it did the same thing, but then stopped all together. Assuming it was out of gas I put some in and it started and ran for about a day then again stopped. I have no check engine lights or any other warning indicators on. After talking to some people we came to the conclusion that it needed a new fuel pump which I changed. Unfortunately it still won't start. If I put the accelerator all the way to the floor it acts like it wants to go, but as soon as I let off of the pedal the engine just turns with no hint of wanting to run.
well i have a 99 dodge 2500 24v cummins...while driving the engine revs.. i have had the TPS checked and removed and for another one...still does it.. i have had the Computer updated...stoped then started again several months later...i had transducer solined replaces and another part as well.. Any ideas...electrical or the tranny? any ideas please help!
I have a 95 dodge ram van 3500 5.9liter and it will not start. but first a little history. I left wisconsin enroute to Kansas City 4 days ago. After fuelling in Iowa i drove 160 miles and the vehicle started to shutter like i was out of fuel. I thought maybe it was the fuel indicator so i limped off the road and topped off the tank only took 14 gallons. i started the vehicle and took off fat dumb and happy reset my trip odometer so i would know when i reached 400 miles to refuel. not so fast this time it happened at 173 miles. this continued the entire trip to Kansas City. I called my mechanic and advised of the problem he said put two bottles of injector cleaner in and call him in the morning. Well morning came and i was driving east on I-70 and guess what happened? yup 150 miles missing and sputtering. I kept my foot on the gas and limped 2 miles to the next exit. Fueled up and off we go I have resigned myself that I will have to do this all the way back to wisconsin. But the plot thickens. I woke up this morning to 47 degrees and decided to start the van to warm things up and guess what it just turns over. So i figured maybe it is cold or being tempermental. It has always started on the first try in the past. So i go into the flying J where I slept and bought a can of starting fluid. well i spreayed it into the breather intake near the grill and hopped in thinking i would start it and get moving. nothing it just turns over no spark i am thinking. So as I sit stranded in the Flying J truck stop in Pontoon Beach Illinois I am curious are they related problems or just a coinky dink. I have run out of ideas. fuel pump, coil, some other part i am not familiar with HELP! POST CALL EMAIL ANYTHING I AM IN DIRE STRAIGHTS
No I am still at a loss and I am afraid to start dumping $$$ into it as a trial and error method of fixing the problem. I know that there is fuel getting to the injectors and that the motor is getting spark. I have no warning lights or check engine light so I don't know what to check next.
It sounds like you got some bad gas or have a fuel pump problem that just started on the trip or was aggravated by bad gas. I'm assuming you had no problems up to this point, and it seems when the tank is full to about 3/4 it runs fine. This leads me to believe a bad pump/wiring in tank.
Update...I've got spark to all the cylinders, the injectors are working, i.e. the resistance of each are good and I checked the voltage to most and they are getting the proper voltage. What does this lead me to next...the computer???...Timing??? the motor is not backfiring, so I don't think it's timing. As I said before it wants to start but won't. What can it be???
I limped back to wisconsin stopping to buy fuel every 150 miles or so kinda anoying but i am home. I took out the manual (Haynes) and it mentioned I should hear the whirring sound of the fuel pump when I turn the key to the on position, and should also hear it when it is started. I recall hearing this noise in the past and I do not hear it now when i test these two methods. is that an indication the fuel pump is bad, and why would it start if the pump was not working or is it that it is not working well?
You could have a defective fuel pump or a bad fuel pump relay. However, on that vintage RAM I would replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor first. Bad ignition components can cause eroneous computer codes.
You don't say how many miles is on this truck, but in those years failure of the intake manifold gaskets were common on high mileage engines. Also, if very high mileage look for a possible failed catalytic convertor.
Hi, I am looking for a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with a 5.9 cummins turbo diesel engine "service manual". Does anyone have one, preferrably one that I may download? Thanks, gyps3000
hi, did you ever figure out want was wrong with your truck.. i am having the same problems with mine, but it is only when driving..i have had my TPS switched out and it still did it. it have a 24 v cummins...if you can help me that would be great!
I have a '00 Ram 1500, and it has the same problem. I'm going to take the plunge and get the TPS changed. Here's some other symptoms that lead me to believe that its the TPS. Going about 35-45 and not accelerating, if I push on the accelerator slightly, it'll shift quickly and then drop back to 4th. If I keep pushing, nothing else happens. If I release the accelerator to it's previous position, it'll do it again. So it's looking to me like a TPS issue. I'll let you know. Steve.
I have a 1997 Cummins powered RAM that has a problem that is driving me nuts. I've invested a few bucks helping to train our local Dodge dealer in Dodge electrics but to no avail!
When I start the engine the Brake and ABS lights go off. After a few seconds, however, they come back on again - and stay on. I am pretty sure there is not actually a brake or an ABS issue. Any ideas?
we recently bought a new 2004 2500 4x4 with the cummins ho 600 with auto. 10 months later it started to run rough. there was 35000 miles on it and we thought it might be the injectors. took it to the dealer here in ontario california and find out a week later that there maybe water in the engine which makes it out of warranty, that means we will have to buy a new engine. i don't see how water could get in there especially with no rain. cummins told me water can get in through the airbox in a rainstorm, again we have had no rain anytime close to when this happened, and if so that would seem to be a design flaw. would the truck just stop running fairly soon if water were to get in the engine? the truck is driven about 100 to 150 miles per day on the freeway in so cal without a trailer, my son is a mortgage rep.
First off, they are feeding you a hot load of B.S. How would your warranty be void automatically if there is water in the engine. They have to do some serious looking around to determine what really took place. Even with rain getting in the airbox( I'v'ebeen told the same thing by DC and Cummins) it shouldn't be bad enough to make the truck undriveable. The Cummins were made to drive long and hard. I had a '98 3500 dualie with the Cummins and made it to 385,000 miles before the major overhaul. Demand more from your dealer and tell them to get their act together. Have you priced a brand spankin' new Cummins TurboDiesel? Try in the neighborhood of $15-20000 installed. There is absolutely no way a couple of sprinkles caused this erratic running of your diesel. Get a copy of the description/invoice from the dealer and get a hold of your District Service Rep for your area. You can get his contacts from the service department and also call DC.
I have a 2002 dodge ram 1500 4.7l v8. Last November i took it in to get a recall fixed, i thought i was got the heated mirrors that were getting fixed but just relized they did something with the blower motor wires. Apparently that was the newest recall. On thanksgiving i started my truck early in the am kept it running for about 10 minutes and it continued blowing cool air. Took off and it eventually got hot. I didn't really think a whole lot about it. So i continued driving it for the winter. I noticed during the winter months when i would idol for long periods it would start blowing out cool air again but only for the first 45 minutes of driving. But right when i took off it started getting hot again at the time i had 35,000 miles on it. In August we were having a heat wave and the a/c just quit no air what soever hot or cold. Went to dodge explained what happened over the phone, when i went in there to drop off my truck i explained again. So they picked out all the info i was giving them and when i went to pick it up they told me they had done a compression check and the engine was fine i was only low on coolant. So my extended warrenty didn't cover the diagonics charges which was labor(49,500 miles at the time) how goes in about heater problems when your having a heat wave?I told them all the info about my a/c blower quiting but they only wrote heater problems. So then we were idoling again and the a/c only blew out warm air, when we took off it slowly got colder. This was about 2 weeks later from it getting fixed. I called dodge and told asked them if they would cover it under there warrenty policy and they said sorry lady it only says heater check. UUURRRGGG Anyway a few days later my Mil LIght came on my husband bought a obd2 reader and the code was T1491. So anyway im back in to dodge again tomarrow hoping i don't get screwed with more charges. I can't afford it. What do you think? Also i do have a blown fuse i noticed after the light came on but the a/c is still alll scewed up. also how long should it take my truck to kick out hot heat in the am. Any advice on this situation would be great.
Comments
If this transmission was worked on, isn't the shop fixing this for you? Adding more clutches and using different planetary gears sets are not uncommon for certain rebuiders, but that will not solve basic problems.
Regards,
Dusty
My 04 Crown Vic, OTOH, with 26K miles, cannot break 22 mpg, even tho the sticker said 25 mpg highway, and I know of folks with Town Cars who get 28 mpg highway...maybe I need a new DTS Northstar...
I went to the Dodge Dealership in Minden, La. and their only diesel mechanic told me my fuel transfer pump and diesel injector pump were both imploded. He wanted $2600.00 to repair them even though the truck would start and run fine. He put on a fuel transfer pump only, Charged me $500.00, and the truck still runs fine just like it did before I went there. As I came home the truck still has the same problem with losing speed on the highway. It doesn't matter if I am using cruise control or not. The problem has steadily gotten worse and worse since it began happening.
I went to a transmission shop and they checked out the transmission and said there is absolutely nothing wrong with the transmission. Paid $50 for that.
I went to a diesel truck repair place and their top diesel mechanic checked it with his computer and said the throttle position sensor was out and it was causing the computer to give me several other trouble codes. They checked my diesel injector pump and all my injectors and said there is no problem with my injector pump or the injectors. I have clean oil and air and fuel filters. I was advised to replace the throttle position sensor. I did that myself at a cost of $495.55. Very easy to change out. The truck still has the same problem of losing speed and slow to take off for up to one mile. I took it back to the diesel truck mechanic shop and he reset all the trouble codes and recalibrated the bell crank to the ECM but this still did not fix the problem.
I've spent several hundred dollars now trying to find the problem but NOBODY around 100 miles of Shreveport can seem to tell whats wrong with my truck! Even the Dodge Dealerships have said they are just guessing. I am disabled and cannot afford them to continue swapping out $500 parts at my expense while guessing at trying to find the problem. Since the one Dodge Dealership mechanic obviously lied to me and tried too fleece me for $2600.00 I am now scared to go to any Dodge Dealer for service and still can't afford to give them my truck carte blanche to learn how to work on them with. Their mechanics appeared to have just gotten back from a 3 day drunk with their coffee and cigarettes in their hands and dirty wrinkled clothes at 8 o'clock in the morning! I thought they may have just gotten out of jail somewhere. Would you trust your truck to someone who looked like that?
I am in hopes that someone else may have had this mechanical problem and can shed some light on the subject. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I depend on my truck to go to the doctors and pharmacies that I have to go to. Thank you so much for reading my problem and if you can help please write me back. I'm at my wits end with my Dodge truck! Lee Stuart, Haynesville, La.
The new sensor has a larger mounting bracket and a new short wire
cable. $41 at the dealer...
a slight rough idle going. I drive around the corner and stop, the rough idle continues and upon acceleration I have bad hesitation / missing to a point where it seems like the truck will die. After the truck warms up it seems to run fine.
Already gave truck a full tune-up, plugs, wires, cap & rotor, all genuine Mopar parts.
I'm thinking vacuum leak but the manifold gasket has already been replaced.
Any thoughts?
All indicators are that it is my injector pump. I have over 100,000 miles on it now so it isn't under any warranty. I've made an appointment to take it in Monday.
Thank you again for your advice. I do really appreciate you! Stuart
Contaminated fluid will clog the anti-drain back valves. They can be flushed but are sometimes replaced to be safe.
Regards,
Dusty
kcram - Pickups Host
At higher speeds and acceleration everything seems fine. It is just low speeds that it is noticeable.
Does anyone have any thoughts as to what might be up?
Thanks in advanced!
Thanks.
kcram - Pickups Host
BJT
BJT
I have no check engine lights or any other warning indicators on. After talking to some people we came to the conclusion that it needed a new fuel pump which I changed. Unfortunately it still won't start. If I put the accelerator all the way to the floor it acts like it wants to go, but as soon as I let off of the pedal the engine just turns with no hint of wanting to run.
Any help is appreciated.
thanks
Stan
thanks bri
Hope you find your problem soon,
Stan
It sounds like you got some bad gas or have a fuel pump problem that just started on the trip or was aggravated by bad gas. I'm assuming you had no problems up to this point, and it seems when the tank is full to about 3/4 it runs fine. This leads me to believe a bad pump/wiring in tank.
steve
kcram - Pickups Host
You don't say how many miles is on this truck, but in those years failure of the intake manifold gaskets were common on high mileage engines. Also, if very high mileage look for a possible failed catalytic convertor.
Good luck,
Dusty
I am looking for a 99 dodge ram 2500 4x4 with a 5.9 cummins turbo diesel engine "service manual". Does anyone have one, preferrably one that I may download?
Thanks,
gyps3000
Did you ever find a solution?
Thanks!
Deidre
thanks bri
Steve.
When I start the engine the Brake and ABS lights go off. After a few seconds, however, they come back on again - and stay on. I am pretty sure there is not actually a brake or an ABS issue. Any ideas?
awalton
Annessa