Nissan Altima Maintenance and Repair

heavencloud

Can someone run a car fax report for me

VIN 1N4DL01D81C160868

Thanks

pat

Here you go: Get your CarFax report. It's a very modest fee and it's the right way to get your information.

skinsfan3

Why in hell would someone who has invested money in an automobile avoid spending a couple of bucks to protect his or her investment? Pass up a couple of beers, cheapskate.

electricdesign

I'll second that!

wmelon

In a '98 Altima driver's door, is it necessary to remove the armrest and/or door panel in order to change the master window switch unit? Or does it pop out with some coaxing without door disassembly? Anyone have advice or diagrams or know where I can find same?
Thanks.

ckjes

07 Altima SL

When i start my car, sometimes the engine sounds way louder than it does normaly

does anyone have the same problem??

or it's not a problem at all??

garth2

How much louder is "way louder"? When you first start your car, there is a lot more gas going through it and it eventually peters out as the engine warms up. Mine does the same thing, most do, not just altimas. I would start it with someone who knows a bit about cars around, and see what they think. It's probably nothing.

mds5254

Not sure its a suspension problem or steering or what but my '07 seems to drift abruptly at say 45 + mph. This feels like a wind gust but its not a wind gust and it happens all the time. I've never owned a car that did this unless it was a windy day of course. We've all experienced that but this happens on calm days as well and sometimes the movement can be quiet alarming. Once almost crossing the yellow line before I reacted and got it back. At first I thought it was just getting used to a new car but after 2 months Im concerned I might have a lemon. Anyone else with this issue????? I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks all.

sushiljk

I have the same proble. i thought that probably its because of the steering which is very sensitive in Altima. But there is a certain noticeable drift at speeds of 60. Please let me know if u found a sloution for tht.

divedeep

When I start my 07 Altima (4 cyl) when it's cold, it revs pretty high and there is actually a little rattle for a half-second or so. I have heard this on a couple others, so I assume it is normal.

bv050506

I just bought a '07 SE V-6 with the premium package. I'm not sure I'm in the right place to ask this question. I have a defeat button for the VDC, but not traction control. I know I have traction control, so can I assume that when the VDC is turned off, the traction control is also simultaneously? It's probably in the manual, but I haven't found it yet. Thanks

logtrail

Just bought a 2001 Altima and one of the keys does not work. Was told by Nissan service that they could reprogram all keys but I would have to leave the car. I saw on another site some instructions for reprogramming: i.e. put key in ignition six times quickly, then this, then that etc. etc. In other words, a complex set of steps.
Does anyone know if this works or should I bite the bullet and let the dealer reprogram the security keys?

jack_suv

I have 2001 nissan altima and at higher speeds it does drift to the right. i tried alignment fixing but no help. I think it is because the right side of steering wheel has more buttons and controls such as cruise etc which causes it to turn right a bit, but Im no engineer and it may be different for 2007 altima.

jack_suv

Hi Experts,

This problem happens when the outside temperature is hot more than 79'F. When I turn on the AC and the car is idle and in Parking gear the RPM moves from 500 to 1000 and back to 500 every 3 seconds. Only when the RPM is at 1000, the AC blows cold air otherwise the AC blows fine but normal air. At the same time the second fan in the front of the engine kicks on and off and there is more noise at that time.

While driving on highway, I can also feel a drag when the AC is on. The AC comes on and goes off within 3 seconds repeatedly even while driving on highway. Please help.

tarnmaster

yes, very obviously you are no engineer ...

skinsfan3

Obviously you need to take time to read the owner's manual.

jd10013

If its an '07, just take it back to the dealership. But, if I had to guess, i'd say its probably an alignment issue. if it were in the suspension, you'd probably notice it at any speed. Most of the time, problems that show up at higher speeds are either tire issues, or alignment one.

jack_suv

Hi Experts,

This problem happens when the outside temperature is hot more than 79'F. When I turn on the AC and the car is idle and in Parking gear the RPM moves from 500 to 1000 and back to 500 every 3 seconds. Only when the RPM is at 1000, the AC blows cold air otherwise the AC blows fine but normal air. At the same time the second fan in the front of the engine kicks on and off and there is more noise at that time.

While driving on highway, I can also feel a drag when the AC is on. The AC comes on and goes off within 3 seconds repeatedly even while driving on highway. Please advice.

thnx

electricdesign

Sounds like your refrigerant charge is low, get it checked.

mds5254

I think this post is going to the wrong person so my apologies ahead of time. Hopefully it will be seen by the correct person also as I am obviously not adept at posting here.

Thank you for your response. I appreciate that you took the time to answer. I am an engineer so I can safely assure say that this is not my problem and I'd venture a strong guess that it is not yours either. Not knowing your situation exactly I'd suggest that your issue does sound like it is an alignment issue. If it has been going on for a while you should be able to get some confirmation by inspecting your tires for improper wear patterns. If it is occurring only during breaking then have should have your brakes and calipers inspected. I suppose there are other factors to consider as well but I'd hate to steer you in the wrong direction (no pun intended) without knowing more information. Besides that I'm not a trained auto mechanic either. Again thank you for responding and I hope you are able to get your problem resolved.

mds5254

Thank you for the response. I always assumed that alignment issues would consistently be seen in the same direction and in my case its either direction due to some mechanical misadjustment. Were not talking about a constant pull or drift but a sudden movement in either direction. It always happens as if it were a sudden and unexpected wind gust pushing the car. At other times its just as smooth and straight as can be. I did not consider the tires but that makes me wonder. I will check the pressures and also read up on these tires to see how they have rated if I can find that information. and also talk to the dealer. Thats good advice. I also read that the '07 Altima uses speed variable steering which is suppose to vary the feedback based on speed. I wonder if this could be a contributor as well? Anyway thanks for the feedback. Have a good one.

raydanley

I have a 1994 Nissan Altima - automatic. I purchased it brand new with 6.5 miles on it. It now has over 298,000 miles on it. I keep up with the maintenance and change the oil about every 2,000 miles with Valvoline 5w30. So far it's been a great car with very few problems. Recently it became hard to start. I did a full tune up on it replacing the original spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new fuel filter, air filter, and changed the oil and oil filter. The problem persisted. I read through the Hanes manual, pulled out the multi-meter and checked every ignition electrical connection from the battery to the spark plugs. Everything checked out except the coil. I replaced the coil with a brand new coil (hard to find). Now it starts as it should, but it seems to bog down when I press the gas peddle and move from a dead stop. It seems to bog down until it hits about 2500 RPM. Then it picks up and runs well. This leaves me to believe I have a timing or fuel pressure problem. The Hanes manual says the timing should be set at 20 degrees before TDC at idle (600 to 700 RPM). I checked the timing with a timing light and it's about 10 degrees before TDC at at idle (600 to 700 RPM). As far as I know the timing has never been adjusted on my car since the day I purchased it. First question: is it possible for it to slip over time? Secondly, can anyone confirm what it should be set at and what is the best procedure to do so?

Thank you,

Ray Danley

jd10013

If your car uses a chain like most nissan vehicles, it shouldn't slip. However, with almost 300k miles on it, who knows. thats a lot of miles.

moshiachnow

This error is mentioned elsewhere in the forum, but I didn't see any solutions posted. We are getting a P0420 error on a 2005 Altima, the code list says it is TWC function RH. What does it mean and what needs to be done to correct it?

mm99

I have the same problem (on a 2007 3.5SL), although it was never anything extreme, just very unusual. I've checked the tire pressure right after the first time, and it was normal. I always assumed that it was some kind of turbulence in the air. Let us know if your dealer has something to say.

I wonder if anyone with 3.5SE ever experienced these "gusts", that model has different tires.

mm99

On my 2007 3.5SL, the "passenger airbag off" light turns on if a passenger (adult) gets into his right front seat before the ignition start. He then has to get up and down on the seat for the weight sensor to figure out his weight and for the light to go off. Does anybody else have this issue? This is not how it's supposed to work, right?

mm99

Actually, at 90 mph (on an empty highway at night), this Altima (2007 3.5SL) is downright unstable, jerking left and right as if driving throug the wind, even though there is no wind. My previous Altima (2002 2.5S) did not behave like this at these speeds. There has to be something wrong with the type of stock tires, or even with aerodynamics of the body.

jd10013

It's not the body, they test cars extensivly in wind tunnels to prevent that. besides, mine rides perfect at any speed rain or shine. If you didn't cause it yourself (not saying you did) by jumping a curb, or flying down a pothole filled road, It's probably a defect in the tires, a defect in the suspension, or a problem in the stability control system.

anyhow, the car is 4 months old. take it back to the dealership, pick up your rental (assuming you purchased the extended warranty) and let them worry about it.

mm99

I've tried 90 mph on the same highway again, and this night there were no "gusts". It's a pretty long stretch of highway, so I can say that the car behavior was different from last night. It looks like it does depend on the condition of the air, maybe if it's just slightly turbulent, the car has this amplified reaction to it. That is, it may well be the body aerodymanics, they may not have tested it extensively enough.

I'll take the car to the dealer anyhow. And maybe worth trying fatter tires.

lili1

I haven't had enough time on my 3.5SE w/ VDC but I am looking out for this issue. God bless, I have not had it yet!!

Warning: I did not research and I have NOT confirm w/ anyone but strongly suspect the Altima uses the Electric Power Assist Steering design or whatever they call it.

I suspect there is a malfunctioning or worse, inherent problem. I suggest asking to talk to the Nissan rep when he/she is in town so that enquiry with engineering can be considered if you dealer believes there is no issue with your car after it has been checked out.

The following is a good clip to explain how it works. It is basically a manual/mechanical steering system and on top of that, there is a electric motor which joins you to add the steering input to lighten you 'human' effort whenever your mechanical system starts turing and triggers/'tips' off the 'computer' to tell the motor to run. To me, that is partial 'fly by wire' (scary in real life but not on paper). Conceptually, I suspect you(your Altima's steering system) and I hope it is not we as all the owners or Nissan having a broader problem!!! ....your mechanical system is mistriggering; or its electronic/electrical portion due to sensing problem; or electronic interference, or any screw up in design therefore self-trigger, turns on the motor suddenly and sends you a surprising 'wind gust/swing'. I hope I am wrong and it is none of these. It is the fade of OUR LIVES at the mercy of some electrons because it is a less costly design.

Safety consideration when designing? - the engineers probably all convince themselves that our hands are supposed to be on the steering wheel and are still controlling the mechanical system which can overpower any such crazy electric motor malfunction and therefore checked it off as NO RISK. It means, thou shall never just hold you wheel with two fingers and the other hand elsewhere!!!??
This car aleady has no caster effect (steering wheel does not return by itself), it does not hold itself straight on a straigh road, and that makes it much more surprising when it happens. To see what I mean,watch the steering wheel when you are crusing, you turn it lightly left, the wheet will stay there on a left turn until you are in the ditch!!

However, I will not rule out mechanical issue although it is unlikely since something this loose, you will notice. At low speed, jerk you wheel left-right'left-right quickly and over some bumpy road is even better to detect if you steering has any significant 'play' (void/space) when you change direction to indicate a big mechanical gap caused by some linking point not tightened, the steering rack is too far from your pinion, or things like that.

--- --------------

Direct electric steering uses an electric motor attached to the steering rack via a gear mechanism (no pump or fluid). A variety of motor types and gear drives is possible. A microprocessor controls steering dynamics and driver effort. Inputs include vehicle speed and steering, wheel torque, angular position and turning rate.

---------------------------

Working In Detail:

A "steering sensor" is located on the input shaft where it enters the gearbox housing. The steering sensor is actually two sensors in one: a "torque sensor" that converts steering torque input and its direction into voltage signals, and a "rotation sensor" that converts the rotation speed and direction into voltage signals. An "interface" circuit that shares the same housing converts the signals from the torque sensor and rotation sensor into signals the control electronics can process.

Inputs from the steering sensor are digested by a microprocessor control unit that also monitors input from the vehicle's speed sensor. The sensor inputs are then compared to determine how much power assist is required according to a preprogrammed "force map" in the control unit's memory. The control unit then sends out the appropriate command to the "power unit" which then supplies the electric motor with current. The motor pushes the rack to the right or left depending on which way the voltage flows (reversing the current reverses the direction the motor spins). Increasing the current to the motor increases the amount of power assist.

The system has three operating modes: a "normal" control mode in which left or right power assist is provided in response to input from the steering torque and rotation sensor's inputs; a "return" control mode which is used to assist steering return after completing a turn; and a "damper" control mode that changes with vehicle speed to improve road feel and dampen kickback.

If the steering wheel is turned and held in the full-lock position and steering assist reaches a maximum, the control unit reduces current to the electric motor to prevent an overload situation that might damage the motor. The control unit is also designed to protect the motor against voltage surges from a faulty alternator or charging problem.

The electronic steering control unit is capable of self-diagnosing faults by monitoring the system's inputs and outputs, and the driving current of the electric motor. If a problem occurs, the control unit turns the system off by actuating a fail-safe relay in the power unit. This eliminates all power assist, causing the system to revert back to manual steering. A dash EPS warning light is also illuminated to alert the driver. To diagnose the problem, a technician jumps the terminals on the service check connector and reads out the trouble codes.

mm99

Thanks for the technical details. It's an interesting hypothesis. However, a steering assist malfunction would have to happen when there is no steering input from me whatsoever, I'm holding the wheel dead straight. It doesn't sound impossible though, I'll pass this guess to the Nissan mechanic who will be looking at my car.

As for the car's steering feel - it is perfect and any speed, no "play" whatsoever.

Also, it is encouraging that you have not experienced these "gusts" on your 3.5SE, which has better tires (and the same body), which would make it easily fixable.

bfournine

Help!!! My boyfriend has a 2002 Nissan Altima and has to keep boosting the battery after short trips. He can drive 3 miles or less, let the car sit overnight and the car will be dead the next morning. But on long trips, the car will start up after the car sits overnight. I have read that the alarm can drain the battery. Is anyone else having this problem? He has replaced the battery several times and has had the electrical system checked, to be told nothing is wrong. Help!!!

skinsfan3

I had the exact same problem in my 2003. It went to the dealer a number of times. One of the dealers, in New Jersey, seeing my then Virginia plate, and making some wrong assumptions, thought I was so dumb that I would buy into his diagnosis, that I needed a new radiator. Nonsense. He did it iunder warranty. Afterwards, I used my expirience with many cars over the years to diagnose the problem. Bad alternator. Another dealer ran noise checks and agreed with me. Fortunately, I have purchased bumper to bumper insurance warranty from my carrier, so it was repaired. Cist me $250, my deductible. In the old days, I would have thrown one in myself. The problem hasd been corrected.

raydanley

This is bad alternator problem or there is an electrical short in the system. If your battery accepts a jump start and can start the car after it sits for a while then it's not a battery problem. It seems that the battery can hold a charge, if it gets charged. The next thing to check is the alternator. Some places like NAPA and AutoZone will test your alternator for free. Nonetheless, if your alternator is not producing sufficient current (while the engine is running) then some or even all of the electrical charge will be drawn from the battery. At some point the running engine will deplete the battery of it's electrical charge and the spark plugs will stop firing. At that point the battery will only have enough energy left to run the radio, and maybe turn on the lights. It will not have enough energy left to start the car. If the battery sits for a couple of hours it will usually produce a secondary charge all on it's own. You may get one more attempt of starting the engine with this secondary charge, but it's a worthless attempt if your alternator doesn't produce enough electrical charge to run the engine and recharge the battery.

edvk

The problem may simply be that the belt is slipping. Check the alternator belt tension.

You could also measure the amperage on the battery when the car is turned off. You could have some device that continues to draw power.

casualfc

99 Altima, 86K. Does not have keyless entry. I mainly use driver's side door to get in, so lock works decently. When I use either the passenger door or the trunk, the key goes in but will not turn. I've sprayed a decent amount of WD40 in through the keyholes but still no luck. I'm not looking to spend the bucks and have them replaced, so I'd like to see if I can repair what I've got.
Any suggestions?

jd10013

probably not. I have the same problem with my 98 200sx trunk keylock. the key won't turn, but the release in the car will open it. when i examined the part or the lock and linkage on the inside of the trunk, i saw a decent amount of rust and corrosion. because they're all made as one piece, i doubt you could find the individual parts that would need replaced. But, if you could do it yourself, I doubt the actual locks themselves would cost that much.

autodriver

I have 03 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL, it has 135K miles. In this couple weeks , the car engine suddenly shut off when I was braking, one time when I turn on the A/C. I just change the new alternator and new battery for couple months the belt also. I always have the service scheduled. If somebody know what wrong, please let me know, thank you so much!!!

jrohrman

Hi ya. My wife has a 97 Altima and driving home from work today it died on her. Right before it died all the warning lights came on, even the E brake light, though it wasn't on at the time. I went to pick her up and the lights were dim, all of her warning lights were still on. She was able to turn it over to move it, but then its rpm's dropped down and it just died.

- I didn't have a chance to go back and look at it yet, but I'm thinking battery, alternator, belt? Maybe a fun combo of both.

biggrobs15

Try checking the distributor before you start putting money into it.It happenedto me once and the alternator was leaking. You can try?

electricdesign

It may be several things causing the engine to die sometimes. There are currently 2 KNOWN issues that can cause this to happen, it may be one of them. The camshaft position sensor can go bad, and also the crankshaft position sensor can go bad. You need to have it checked at a Nissan dealer or competent repair shop.
Good Luck.
E.D. ISF

lkyte

Did you ever get resolution from Consumer Affairs or anyone about this? I also have the water rushing noise, am on my 3rd radiator and just had to replace the thermostats. I have been complaining about the water noise for over a year and Nissan doesn't seem to care...any advice/help you can offer would be appreciated!!!

altima0606

wasup, i got the Nissan 06 model,recently it just started giving me problems, out of nowhere. First when im driving, the check your engine light comes on and the steering wheel just locks! it feels like as if the brakes are bloked they're so hard to press and i have to press it really hard and stop, turn off the ignition and then turn it on again, then it runs fine again. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

pirateman

Is my 2003 Altima haunted? The car can be parked in the driveway for 35-45 minutes (engine off) and all the sudden the drivers AND the passengers window get a surge of power and go completely in the down position. Again, with the engine off for 35 minutes! What gives? I have disconnected the battery so I can sleep tonight without worrying the rain is getting in. Send response ASAP. Waiting.

skinsfan3

My 2003 is close to haunted as youras. From time to time, the doors lovk themselves. I make it practice to never leave the keys in the car, just in case. Quite often, if I leave the rear door behind the drivers side open, I can see the locks do their things. I hasve kept mu 2003 in like new condition, so I am not going to try to get this problem worked out, since I do not want to risk ifa repair may create interio damage. I can live with this. All in all, I am happy with the car, except for the tuning radius and the rotten mileage per mile.

jbarrsf

As others has mentioned the camshaft position sensor was the cause on my 2003 altima 2.5s. My car was under 60 month 60,000 drive train warranty but his reapir not covered. Dealer told wouldn't be fair to all the other people who paid $182 to ge this fixed. I filee a complaint with NHTSA.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
If every one who has this problem we may save someone's life if we can effect recall. In addition we may be reinbursed.

jd10013

Sounds as if the power steering and power braking are shutting down. it might be something with the drive belt.

alpine1

I have a 99 Altima GXE and have experienced the same problem. I learned that the locks are good, but the key was worn. I tried the spare key (which is new) and the locks worked just fine. The keys look identical. However, one of the keys locks the glove box and the other does not. I went to Home Depot and had a couple of keys made from the spare. Everything is O.K.

bear26

Hi, I appreciate any responses and help I receive on this.

I just purchased a 2006 Altima, 2.5S. This actually my 2nd as the first one had a trunk leak they were unable to fix after 1 and a half months, but in any case:

I am hearing a rushing water noise...just like..if in a bathtub you move the water back and forth and it sloshes around. I only hear this when slowly accelerating from 0 to about 20 or 30 Kmh.

It doesn't happen all the time, but often enough that it's definitely alarming.

Has anyone else experienced this?

There are no viewable mechanical defects as I just took it for an oil change today...and no leaks on outside of inside of car that I can detect.

Thanks!

bear26

I just bought my 06 Altima and the rough shifting is definitely a design issue. I use to have a 95 sentra and it was so smooth when you took your foot of the gas. With this 06 altima you feel the car almost hiccup...I tested 3 other altima's and they all did the same thing..it really is annoying...very rough shifting car.