Ford F-150 Owners

PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
We really didn't have an official "home" for F-150 owners to gather here, so grabbing the hammer and nails and a few sheets of plywood...poof... a new clubhouse!

PF Flyer


Pickups & News & Views Message Boards



  • gasguzzler007gasguzzler007 Member Posts: 70
    This is exacly what we needed. I was looking for a thread with a similar name but the closest we had was "F series problems." This is much better. Good thinking flyer!!!
  • pepper32pepper32 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Flyer, we needed this.
  • biscaynebiscayne Member Posts: 18
    I just picked up a 1999 F-150 extended cab Lariat off lease with 29,000 miles for $17,200. I feel I got a great deal as the truck is mint however I am disapointed about one thing. The leather seats in this truck are terrible. Both seats have several creases that I'm sure will be cracks soon. I see myself re-covering these seats in a year or two. I will use lexol to protect them and see what happens. Other than that, the truck is great. Glad to have a thread just for F-150 owners.
  • ndahi12ndahi12 Member Posts: 235
    Congrats on the truck. But I would urge you to check the passanger side head gasket if you have the 5.4 L engine. On F150s made between 1998/99 the passanger side headgasket leaks. The engine is poorly machined and that is causing the gasket to blow.

    Got to Read the engine forums and there is a long [non-permissible content removed] thread about leaky head gaskets.

    Good luck

  • gasguzzler007gasguzzler007 Member Posts: 70
    You can checkout , , and . These are very good sites to find useful information. Planning any modifications to your new truck?
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    my sis had a '99 exedition with the 5.4 in it, they replaced the whole engine due to this machining problem. dad had a V10 super duty, basically the 5.4 with 2 more cylinders, he also got a whole new engine. id stick with the 4.6 unless you need the extra torque.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    i have found a '97 F150 4x4 with off-road pkg, supercab, and auto. its got 65K on it, asking $16400 for it. this sounds kinda high to me, what do you all think? im thinking of offering no more than $15000. i prefer the '97's and '98's, due to their stout front end appearance. ford really made these trucks conservative looking with the front end redesign in '99. jmo. let me know on the price of this truck, and any problems with the earlier '97's with the 4.6. was it rated at 210 horse back then? i think its 231 now, but same torque i think. thx
  • truckdudetruckdude Member Posts: 55
    97/98's, make sure you check for door cracks at the lower corner of the windows. Also, some of the 4.6's had piston slap, depending on where they were manufactured. There is a TSB for this. I believe you're right on the 210 horse.

    $16,400 does seem high...I have a 99 XLT SC ORP 4x4 5.4 auto, 3.73LS with 31k miles and dealers are only offering 16.5 trade, selling for 19k. Something below 15k would probably be more like it.
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    I recently purchased a 2001 F 150 Super Crew.

    I hope Ford got the machining problems corrected.


  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    A beautiful truck !! I have been thinking about that same truck except with the smaller 4.6 Liter motor. What rearend did you end up getting ? Are those the stock tires ? Are they Firestones ??? they look great !
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    they look like bfg longtrail ta's
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    you lower your super crew? nice truck, however living in iowa, i prefer 4x4.
  • rm13rm13 Member Posts: 46
    I recently traded my Lariat 4x2 4.6 and bought the same truck with the 5.4. The power difference is substantial. In day to day, city driving the gas mileage is off about 1 mpg. On a recent road trip through the mountains, the 5.4 got about 1 mpg better than my 4.6.
    Regarding the rear ends, both trucks had 355, which I think is the only choice. The 4.6 was the limited slip. The 5.4 does not and I settled for this truck because of the financing deadline, which of course got extended after the fact. On wet road,this has not yet made a bit of difference. Let's see if I get stuck in the driveway this winter! Good Luck shopping and buy from a place that will sell or order at (or right close to) invoice.
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    2 inches in the front and a little over 3 in the rear. I think it looks better and is a bit easier to get into the truck now.

    I owned 4x4 trucks in my 20 & 30's, I have no need for a 4x4 now.

    ryanbab hit the tires on the beads.....BFG's.

    Rear gear is 3.55, seems like that is all Ford builds them with. So far 15.2 mpg is the average the truck is getting. Sometimes a bit more and less mpg is always easy too....... LOL

    I've got a 2000 Silverado with a 5.3, 4x2 xtra cab truck. It does mid to high 17 mpg in the same driving as the Ford. It seems like GM only installs 3.73 gears in the 1/2 ton trucks.

    Now...... you may wonder how did I end up with a GM & Ford truck?

    We previously owned (traded it in to Ford) a 2000 Impala LS that gave 25 mpg. The new FWD design Impala's have an aluminum sub frame. In some of the Impala's this aluminum engine cradle makes noise. A popping, clicking noise on turns, stop & starts etc....The noise started on our car at 9,000 miles. We just missed the AZ lemon law by 4,000 miles with the Impala.

    GM covered all costs to install a new updated frame in our car at 43,000 miles. A full 7,000 miles out of warranty!! 3k miles later the car started the mild, low pop noise as we backed out of our garage in the mornings. This problem noise is not a safety issue so the Fed's are not involved.

    So now we own a Ford since GM does not build a similar truck to the Super Crew. We really like this Ford truck.
  • lesalesadoelesalesadoe Member Posts: 1
    Anyone have this problem? 2300 miles and the thing feels like it is trying to find a gear - you know - - serging up and down. Makes you feel like it will stall out any minute! Took it to the dealer. Said it was a bad platinum spark plug. Too bad that replacement did not fix the problem. Got the recall info from, hope I did not get stuck with a lemon! Anyone else have the same problem!
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    with 3.73's (pretty common) and some 4.10's. BTW....all of my GM's have had the std. 3.42's although the 3.73's seem to be showing more and more. I think for towing as it doesn't rwally affect mpg all that much.
  • dasidasi Member Posts: 2
    I just picked up my 02 5.4 xlt, and was curious as to what the feelings are out there as to when to make the 1st oil change.I typically take the "break in oil" out around 3500mi on a new rig. Anybody have any input?
  • trentg1trentg1 Member Posts: 3
    I read with interest biscayne's comments on the F150 seats. I test drove a 2002 Supercrew Lariat 4WD yesterday and was really disappointed in the seats. The leather was rigid and the seat cushions were hard as a rock. In addition to being hard, the length of the cushion resembles the seats in a "foreign job." I think Ford should look at the Dodge Ram seats and think about upgrading.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    Lariat that a Friend had owned for just a few weeks. I couldn't get over how creased and worn the Driver's seat looked. About like our '96 Explorer with 35k miles on it.
  • crosley4crosley4 Member Posts: 295
    Our F150 seat have some areas where the stitching is coming apart. We will have to see what Ford has to say after 2 months of ownership.

    On the flip side we like how the seats feel and the size of them. With the power drivers seat it's easy to get it where you think the seat needs to be.

    Fuel mileage has come up to 16 mpg now , with almost 4k miles on the truck.

    Every single 2001 or 2002 F-150 4x2 xtra cab or super crew truck we looked at here in the valley of the sun in AZ had a 3.55 rear gear. Can't speak of the 4x4 , standard cab 4x2 trucks or any of the F-250's or bigger.

    A buddy has a SDuty F-250 with 5.4 and the 4.10 gears. He ordered the truck too. It's an alternative fuel vehicle that the state of AZ is helping him pay for when our elected officials passed a law to pay out rebates on alt fuel vehicles and alt fuel conversions.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    out this new home and garage....yup I think my 02 Screw will fix just fine in here. End of Sept, I reduced in size from a 2YK F250 Lariat 4x4 Crew Cab to a 02 F150 SCrew XLT 4x4, both trucks carry the 5.4. I went from leather to cloth, which I fine to my liking alot better, I don't worry about sticking my cloth like I did with my leather. The 02 has 4x4,5.4,LS,RX4 off-road pkg., 2-tone (Black/Dark Shadow Gray), moonroof, 6 disc cd changer, power driver's seat/auto headlights, towing pkg, cab steps. I have added an ARE Z-Series Cap (goes down over the bed rails) Full wrap around Black (MAAP)powder coated grill/brush guard. Along with a 6yr/100,000 mi 0 deduct. Everything listed except the grill guard was in the original trade, I swapped payments, no money was exchanged...I went in with a 2YK and came out with a 02. In 5000 miles I have been back to the dealer for the first free oil change at 2500 and haven't been back. It has taken a little getting used to the down sizing...I just carry a bit less in the bed...can get into a lot more places then before. There is always flashbacks when I see the big elephants mirrors coming down the least I can say, I have been there, done that.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Congrats on your new truck.. I was around here when you were getting the SuperDuty. I'm glad the S-crew is working out for you..
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    I have a former classmate who lives in Ashville, but my excite address book is still screwed up so can't e-mail him.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    In Raleigh, (actually I live in the outlying boonies aka Holly Springs), I had 11" in my driveway and on the road..
    I don't think Ashville got quite that much, but they would be much better prepared for something like this.

    Yesterday the roads were very passable because the unplowed roads were mostly very wet snow and slush, and most stuff that was plowed was just wet.. At least one lane of all major roads was in decent shape..
    The killer is at night, when it gets down to 15 degrees, all the wet stuff freezes into solid ice.. Also, any spot that gets alot of shade does't thaw out, which makes for some way slick spots..

    My 4x2 Superduty (with limited slip diff) does 'ok', but I have high mileage highway tires on it, not all terrain tires.. Also I need about 300 to 500lbs in the rear to help settle it some. The 4x2 Escape we have which is front wheel drive and has good tires, has no problems at all..

    A friend of mine's 4x4 is in the shop.. It got stuck in 4wheel low. When he brought it in, he said the service department was PACKED with folk's 4x4's in for service. Most wouldn't go into 4x4, with a small number of others with different 4x4 system problems.

    Why? I think because 4x4 systems a. need to be used, and b. do require more maintenance, but since its not used, they don't know its broke..
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    Have fun in the snow. We've had a lot of nights below freezing recently but fortunately no precip with them. These people can't even drive on wet roads forget about on ice/snow. And if anything it's usually ice.
  • corvette2corvette2 Member Posts: 1
    My first F-150 was a 1981, Yesterday I bought a 2000 F-150 super cab xlt, black, 5.4L, 4x4, cloth seats, power everything, am/fm/cd, bed liner, bed cover, tow package, cab steps, 48k miles. $17,600. Hopefully will not have any problems and be happy with it. Thanks for the info pages found here.
  • parchisiparchisi Member Posts: 3
    my Grandfather's F-150. He gave it to me since he can't drive anymore, and its a 1995 XLT 4x4 automatic with the 5.8 liter engine. I just wanted to ask anybody out there if there may be any problems/concerns about this truck that I should be aware of. Thanks.

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I've got same truck - '95 extended cab. (Also have '01, F350 CC, so F-150 doesn't see all that much use anymore.) F-150 has 167,000 on it. Aside from tires and maintenance, had to overhaul auto tranny at 125K, needed a starter at 152K, and replaced throttle position sensor at ~160K. Motor is still strong and responsive, still has original exhaust and passes Smog test with ease. I changed oil religiously at 3K miles, and its been a fine truck. My needs changed and I got the '350, but I'm "saving" the '150 for my teenage son.
    My F150 had a tendency to eat front tires - need to rotate them every 6-7K. Tire shop had to put some kind shim on front end in order to align it and it still doesn't stay aligned - bump one curb and it's outta whack again.
    You've gotta engage 4wd at least once a month and drive around a few minutes (off dry pavement) to keep things lubed. Need to do this or you'll get a rude surprise one day when you need it and front hubs won't engage. Is your's a manual 4x4, or do you have "shift on the fly." Shift of the fly can have difficulties with vaccumm actuator springing leaks and prevent shifting into 4 wd. Make sure system can disengage too.
    Oh yeah, also check your spare tire holder. The big bolt that holds it in place under the bed can get pretty rusty. It's kinda humiliating to have a flat and not be able to change it cause you can't break the bolt free to get to your spare. Put some anti-sieze compound on it.
    Enjoy the truck. If you haven't driven a pickup before, the rear ends are light when unloaded, so they handle different than a car. Also remember that 4wd doesn't make you Superman on the road, they take just as long to stop in the snow as 4x2's.
  • parchisiparchisi Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for giving me some info. I'll be sure to kick in the shift on the fly 4 wheel drive every once in a while. Yeah, I was told by my grandpa that he thought that the wheels weren't quite aligned correctly. Just a while ago we got new tires for it and had an alignment done on it. I'me pretty used to driving trucks around, because I've been going around in my Dad's 1990 F-250 for a little while. I have another question, my dad drove this truck from wisconsin, where the altitude is lower. So far, we think that the engine power is a little skimpy compared to the same engine on our 250 when we have to accelerate in conditions like on freeway on-ramps. Do you think the higher altitude of Idaho could cause that? Its about due for a tune-up anyways. Also, there is some corrosion all around on the bottom from the salted roads in Wisconsin. Should that be of any concern?? Thanks again wpalkowski.

  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Glad to be of help.
    I think gassers lose 3% of their HP for every 1000 feet up in altitude. Not totally sure if that 's the right number, but regardless, as you go up the engine loses power. Too much fuel and not enough air. I don't now how to tune an injected engine for higher altitudes but I'm sure the mechanics in your area can help it.
    I live in CT, and they salt pretty heavy here too. Is your corrosion on the body or on frame? My body's fine, only minor rust around a few knocks and dings. My '150 was undercoated, and now 7 years later, it's peeling off and showing rust on frame. It's just surface rust, so I'm not worried. If it was a 20 year old truck then I'd probably be concerned. If you're gonna have your's serviced, check it out while it's up on the lift. While it's there check it out for oil/tranny leaks and also check rear brake cylinders. I forgot to mention that mine were replaced during a brake job because they had started leaking.
    Don't forget to keep on thanking your Grandfather. Not every day somebody's just gonna give you a decent pickup truck, so take good care of it as a sign of respect to him.

    Good Luck,

  • fman2fman2 Member Posts: 1
    I am writing you today because I have a problem with my 99' Ford F-150 and I am appealing to all who might listen or give advice. My problem began
    around two weeks prior to the submittal of this letter (approximately Jan. 3, 2002). I arrived home from work and parked my truck in the garage (as usual) and noticed a smell similar to clutch fluid (my truck has an automatic transmission) or rubber burning. Upon investigation with the help
    of a few good mechanics at my place of employment, I found out that I had an oil leak and it was NOT coming from the drain plug, the oil filter, or any other visually noticeable part. So I took it the dealer that is. I
    took it to the place I bought it from and the place I trust(ed). They said sorry, we can't get to it because "a few of our technicians have the
    crud...But if you schedule an appointment we can get to it in a week or so!" So I scheduled an appointment with this Hoover, Alabama dealership in which I have purchased 3 cars from. The truck went in the shop this past Wednesday. Sure enough, there was an oil leak...problem is, the leak is around the right bank head gasket (?huh - Sorry, not an engine man). 38,800 miles on the truck is supposed to be a break-in point, right? Well it turns out that my 36,000-mile warranty had expired and the dealership and Ford
    Motor Company act like I should be grateful because they offered to pay for PART of the repair cost! Am I wrong for assuming that a blown right bank head gasket is NOT my fault and that a blown right bank head gasket at
    38,800 miles is usually a Manufacturer's defect? Well, from the published owner's accounts that I have found at various Internet sites, this is a
    common problem in late-model Ford products (not to mention the numerous, Ford published recalls). It sounds like they had a bad batch of head or block casts to me (it would baffle me to hear that Ford head casts and block casts are different for each of their automotive products). If I am wrong or misinformed please educate me. I know the recent historical problems
    Ford has had with head gaskets but am I an unusual case? From the Internet reports, I doubt it. Can you advise me on a path to take? Do I take Ford's deal to pay part of the cost? Or do I keep fighting (I have raised caine with the delar and Ford Motor Company)? One other piece of the puzzle I failed to mention is that my last DEALER (same dealership in question) service report states that they CLEANED my air filter at 29,350 miles. On every other service report since the truck was purchased there is no mention of
    changing or cleaning my air filter. In fact, the air filter was not changed until 37,000 miles (7000 miles is probably too long to wait). Is this unusual? The service technician at the next and last place I went for service, seemed to think so. What do I do? Any help, advice, OR criticism would be a great benefit. This is a manufacturer problem in my opinion and I don't think I should drop a dime on it!
  • parchisiparchisi Member Posts: 3
    The corrosion is on the frame, on the axle, and there's some corrosion around the (what do ya call it?) area around the back of the brakes and the lug nuts. Not much, but as you said, i'll have it checked out. And don't worry, I plan on babying the hell out of this thing!

  • ndahi12ndahi12 Member Posts: 235
    This problem is very common on 98-99 F150s. The blokc is poorly machined and does not seal properly with cylinder head. So after a few miles the gasket starts to leak. If they change the gasket only, it will leak again. You need another engine. There are numerous threads at Thet guys on that site will be more helpful than here. Most of them are dealing with the problem as we speak.

    Personally, I would not rest until Ford changed my engine. That is the only solution to your problem. Replacing the gasket will work for a short term and then you will get another leak.

    Try going to another dealer and they might be abel to help you.

  • cindyonthemovecindyonthemove Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2001 F-150 (new) standard cab, standard transmission. Around 5000 miles it started grinding while shifting into 3rd gear, not all the time, but frequently. I took it several times to the dealer who said nothing was wrong and maybe it was my shifting. Not, I continued to have the grinding which was happending more often. On the 4th trip to the dealer they requested I drive w/them to see if the problem happened while they were with me. On the third drive, with the third person, it did it. They still couldn't explain why, but, they decided to replace the whole transmission. So, it drove great no problems with grinding until two weeks ago. It started doing it again, only in 3rd gear. I thought ok, maybe it is me. I deliberately starting shifting with me paying attention to the whole shift process making sure I was doing it right. I am. So, has anyone heard of this problem? Is there some issue relating to the events I have spoken about? I have been trying to research it in hopes of finding an answer or history with this transmission. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find some kind of answer. I appreciate the help.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Maybe the problem isn't with the transmission, but with the clutch not dis-enguaging correctly all the time.. That would explain why replacing the tranny didn't help.
  • cindyonthemovecindyonthemove Member Posts: 3
    I never thought to ask that, could it have stopped when they did replace the trans and all adjustments were made and then it slowly came out of alignment causing it to grind again. If this were the scenario, what part of the clutch is bad? I am a little intimidated to take it back to the dealer. They originally made it sound like I didn't know what I was talking about. You could tell by their facial expressions and questions they were thinking I was having a blonde moment. Do you think it could have anything else to do with the transmission itself? You know, bad year of making it, disgruntled employee, How do you fight for something you know is happening but the males are unwilling to listen? Thanks for writing back
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    From doing some reading on the tranny section boards. Others also experience an occasional grind on the shift into 3rd.
    With online boards, you can't really trust everything you read. I'm sure there alot of folks out there with trannys that work just fine..

    So after doing this reading, here is summary of the possible causes for the 2-3 shift grind..
    -bad synchro
    - wrong fluid put in tranny at factory, (rumor) causing synchro to go bad
    - bad clutch slave cylinder
    - poor design (the fix is just to shift more carefully)
    And probably more..

    Not many folks have had success in getting their symptoms fixed (and I bet they're male). So in your particular case I don't think your dealership is treating you any different than anyone else.

    Keep up the positive attitude with your dealership and return it specifying that your having the same problem..

    Call the 1-800 ford customer service number to document your complaint.. Also, if the dealership is unable to fix the problem, why not ask for an extended powertrain warranty (at no charge).
  • cindyonthemovecindyonthemove Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so much for the additional information and where to find more. I really appreciate it. Have a great week.
  • redsteelerredsteeler Member Posts: 2
    All of my previous trucks have been ext. cabs so I have never needed a bed toolbox before but I recently purchased a F150 regular cab. What is the best way to secure down the toolbox for the bed? The bed already has top and side hole in it rigth behind the cab I assume this is to make it easier to accomodate a toolbox.
  • vincedepalmavincedepalma Member Posts: 1
    My new 2002 SuperCrew order arrived misbuilt from factory. The metal roof was not square. My Ford dealership (after trying hard to correct the problem) rejected the truck and is shipping it back to the factory in Kansas City. The moonroof would not close properly, but it was not the moonroof mechanism--it was the metal roof. The truck was also missing a running board, and the plastic trim on a bed rail was sticking up. It must have been a bad day at the factory in KC when my truck was built (on January 7th, first day back after the holidays). I was angry at first, then later just very disappointed. Ford will get another chance to build it right in February. Best Wishes, [email protected]
  • tstraubtstraub Member Posts: 25
    Hi there,
    I've got a '00 F150 4x4 w. off-road and towing, 5.4 auto. Since new, have experienced 12-14 in mixed city/hwy, have hit 17 a few times on all-hwy trips. I'm fairly light footed, no hot-rodding, burning 87 or 89. This seems a tad low to me, am I wrong to think it should be doing more like 14-15 in mixed??
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Your mileage is consistant with what most others post with that configuration..

    If you look at, you'll see that the F150's with the 5.4L also get mileage in the 13-15 range with mixed driving.. So your doing pretty good considering our SuperDutys are less aerodynamic and alot heavier..

    I average 15.5 in mixed driving but I have the 5sp tranny which helps a bit..
  • dave235dave235 Member Posts: 1
    Am considering a new 2002 f-150 xlt,139", styleside,v6,manual trans,moonroof,6cd,tubular step,sliding rear win.for $20,600.
    They also have the same truck and color without options for $18,800. Does anybody have opinions about these prices?These are supposedly "fords store" no haggle price.This will be my first f-150.

    Thanx in advance
  • jim222jim222 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 98 F-150 with the 5.4. Have had no trouble except the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Recommended spark plug change interval is 100,000 miles. I have heard that it is kind of a tough job with each cylinder having a coil and no plug wires. Has anyone had the experience of changing the plugs?
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    that's seems like a strangely equipped truck. Those options but with 6 and stick. Like somebody ordered it then didn't take it. You'd probably take a beating on trade, but if you keep a vehicle quite awhile it wouldn't matter much.
  • 3fan23fan2 Member Posts: 6
    dave235 check the prices here. You can configure a truck any way you like and
    find the dealers cost right on this site. From what you say sounds like you can do even
    better than dealers cost on these trucks. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  • txyank1txyank1 Member Posts: 1,010
    taught me about these low, low prices. You better be buying it outright (no trade-in). 'Cause they aren't going to give you much for a trade. Been there......but didn't do that!
  • adrian01adrian01 Member Posts: 12
    If that is "THE" truck for you , you better get it because it is one oddly equipped P/U. RARE..Sounds like it was put together with all the parts left over at the end of the day
  • richitarichita Member Posts: 1
    Have opportunity to buy above w/ 36k miles....most options included....4.6 V8....dlr will take 14,900....any suggestions...
  • eagle_eyeseagle_eyes Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know if the Ventvisor for the F150 2001 will fit the 2002 F150 windows?

    Also, do you put the adhesive on the outside of the rubber on the window or inside the groove where the window goes into or does it matter?

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