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Ford F-150 Owners



  • fman2fman2 Posts: 1
    I am writing you today because I have a problem with my 99' Ford F-150 and I am appealing to all who might listen or give advice. My problem began
    around two weeks prior to the submittal of this letter (approximately Jan. 3, 2002). I arrived home from work and parked my truck in the garage (as usual) and noticed a smell similar to clutch fluid (my truck has an automatic transmission) or rubber burning. Upon investigation with the help
    of a few good mechanics at my place of employment, I found out that I had an oil leak and it was NOT coming from the drain plug, the oil filter, or any other visually noticeable part. So I took it the dealer that is. I
    took it to the place I bought it from and the place I trust(ed). They said sorry, we can't get to it because "a few of our technicians have the
    crud...But if you schedule an appointment we can get to it in a week or so!" So I scheduled an appointment with this Hoover, Alabama dealership in which I have purchased 3 cars from. The truck went in the shop this past Wednesday. Sure enough, there was an oil leak...problem is, the leak is around the right bank head gasket (?huh - Sorry, not an engine man). 38,800 miles on the truck is supposed to be a break-in point, right? Well it turns out that my 36,000-mile warranty had expired and the dealership and Ford
    Motor Company act like I should be grateful because they offered to pay for PART of the repair cost! Am I wrong for assuming that a blown right bank head gasket is NOT my fault and that a blown right bank head gasket at
    38,800 miles is usually a Manufacturer's defect? Well, from the published owner's accounts that I have found at various Internet sites, this is a
    common problem in late-model Ford products (not to mention the numerous, Ford published recalls). It sounds like they had a bad batch of head or block casts to me (it would baffle me to hear that Ford head casts and block casts are different for each of their automotive products). If I am wrong or misinformed please educate me. I know the recent historical problems
    Ford has had with head gaskets but am I an unusual case? From the Internet reports, I doubt it. Can you advise me on a path to take? Do I take Ford's deal to pay part of the cost? Or do I keep fighting (I have raised caine with the delar and Ford Motor Company)? One other piece of the puzzle I failed to mention is that my last DEALER (same dealership in question) service report states that they CLEANED my air filter at 29,350 miles. On every other service report since the truck was purchased there is no mention of
    changing or cleaning my air filter. In fact, the air filter was not changed until 37,000 miles (7000 miles is probably too long to wait). Is this unusual? The service technician at the next and last place I went for service, seemed to think so. What do I do? Any help, advice, OR criticism would be a great benefit. This is a manufacturer problem in my opinion and I don't think I should drop a dime on it!
  • The corrosion is on the frame, on the axle, and there's some corrosion around the (what do ya call it?) area around the back of the brakes and the lug nuts. Not much, but as you said, i'll have it checked out. And don't worry, I plan on babying the hell out of this thing!

  • ndahi12ndahi12 Posts: 235
    This problem is very common on 98-99 F150s. The blokc is poorly machined and does not seal properly with cylinder head. So after a few miles the gasket starts to leak. If they change the gasket only, it will leak again. You need another engine. There are numerous threads at Thet guys on that site will be more helpful than here. Most of them are dealing with the problem as we speak.

    Personally, I would not rest until Ford changed my engine. That is the only solution to your problem. Replacing the gasket will work for a short term and then you will get another leak.

    Try going to another dealer and they might be abel to help you.

  • I bought a 2001 F-150 (new) standard cab, standard transmission. Around 5000 miles it started grinding while shifting into 3rd gear, not all the time, but frequently. I took it several times to the dealer who said nothing was wrong and maybe it was my shifting. Not, I continued to have the grinding which was happending more often. On the 4th trip to the dealer they requested I drive w/them to see if the problem happened while they were with me. On the third drive, with the third person, it did it. They still couldn't explain why, but, they decided to replace the whole transmission. So, it drove great no problems with grinding until two weeks ago. It started doing it again, only in 3rd gear. I thought ok, maybe it is me. I deliberately starting shifting with me paying attention to the whole shift process making sure I was doing it right. I am. So, has anyone heard of this problem? Is there some issue relating to the events I have spoken about? I have been trying to research it in hopes of finding an answer or history with this transmission. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find some kind of answer. I appreciate the help.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Maybe the problem isn't with the transmission, but with the clutch not dis-enguaging correctly all the time.. That would explain why replacing the tranny didn't help.
  • I never thought to ask that, could it have stopped when they did replace the trans and all adjustments were made and then it slowly came out of alignment causing it to grind again. If this were the scenario, what part of the clutch is bad? I am a little intimidated to take it back to the dealer. They originally made it sound like I didn't know what I was talking about. You could tell by their facial expressions and questions they were thinking I was having a blonde moment. Do you think it could have anything else to do with the transmission itself? You know, bad year of making it, disgruntled employee, How do you fight for something you know is happening but the males are unwilling to listen? Thanks for writing back
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    From doing some reading on the tranny section boards. Others also experience an occasional grind on the shift into 3rd.
    With online boards, you can't really trust everything you read. I'm sure there alot of folks out there with trannys that work just fine..

    So after doing this reading, here is summary of the possible causes for the 2-3 shift grind..
    -bad synchro
    - wrong fluid put in tranny at factory, (rumor) causing synchro to go bad
    - bad clutch slave cylinder
    - poor design (the fix is just to shift more carefully)
    And probably more..

    Not many folks have had success in getting their symptoms fixed (and I bet they're male). So in your particular case I don't think your dealership is treating you any different than anyone else.

    Keep up the positive attitude with your dealership and return it specifying that your having the same problem..

    Call the 1-800 ford customer service number to document your complaint.. Also, if the dealership is unable to fix the problem, why not ask for an extended powertrain warranty (at no charge).
  • Thank you so much for the additional information and where to find more. I really appreciate it. Have a great week.
  • All of my previous trucks have been ext. cabs so I have never needed a bed toolbox before but I recently purchased a F150 regular cab. What is the best way to secure down the toolbox for the bed? The bed already has top and side hole in it rigth behind the cab I assume this is to make it easier to accomodate a toolbox.
  • My new 2002 SuperCrew order arrived misbuilt from factory. The metal roof was not square. My Ford dealership (after trying hard to correct the problem) rejected the truck and is shipping it back to the factory in Kansas City. The moonroof would not close properly, but it was not the moonroof mechanism--it was the metal roof. The truck was also missing a running board, and the plastic trim on a bed rail was sticking up. It must have been a bad day at the factory in KC when my truck was built (on January 7th, first day back after the holidays). I was angry at first, then later just very disappointed. Ford will get another chance to build it right in February. Best Wishes,
  • Hi there,
    I've got a '00 F150 4x4 w. off-road and towing, 5.4 auto. Since new, have experienced 12-14 in mixed city/hwy, have hit 17 a few times on all-hwy trips. I'm fairly light footed, no hot-rodding, burning 87 or 89. This seems a tad low to me, am I wrong to think it should be doing more like 14-15 in mixed??
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Your mileage is consistant with what most others post with that configuration..

    If you look at, you'll see that the F150's with the 5.4L also get mileage in the 13-15 range with mixed driving.. So your doing pretty good considering our SuperDutys are less aerodynamic and alot heavier..

    I average 15.5 in mixed driving but I have the 5sp tranny which helps a bit..
  • Am considering a new 2002 f-150 xlt,139", styleside,v6,manual trans,moonroof,6cd,tubular step,sliding rear win.for $20,600.
    They also have the same truck and color without options for $18,800. Does anybody have opinions about these prices?These are supposedly "fords store" no haggle price.This will be my first f-150.

    Thanx in advance
  • I have a 98 F-150 with the 5.4. Have had no trouble except the mass air flow sensor needed to be replaced. Recommended spark plug change interval is 100,000 miles. I have heard that it is kind of a tough job with each cylinder having a coil and no plug wires. Has anyone had the experience of changing the plugs?
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    that's seems like a strangely equipped truck. Those options but with 6 and stick. Like somebody ordered it then didn't take it. You'd probably take a beating on trade, but if you keep a vehicle quite awhile it wouldn't matter much.
  • 3fan23fan2 Posts: 6
    dave235 check the prices here. You can configure a truck any way you like and
    find the dealers cost right on this site. From what you say sounds like you can do even
    better than dealers cost on these trucks. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    taught me about these low, low prices. You better be buying it outright (no trade-in). 'Cause they aren't going to give you much for a trade. Been there......but didn't do that!
  • adrian01adrian01 Posts: 12
    If that is "THE" truck for you , you better get it because it is one oddly equipped P/U. RARE..Sounds like it was put together with all the parts left over at the end of the day
  • richitarichita Posts: 1
    Have opportunity to buy above w/ 36k miles....most options included....4.6 V8....dlr will take 14,900....any suggestions...
  • Does anyone know if the Ventvisor for the F150 2001 will fit the 2002 F150 windows?

    Also, do you put the adhesive on the outside of the rubber on the window or inside the groove where the window goes into or does it matter?

  • califjohncalifjohn Posts: 101
    of the 150. The factory blower appeals to me as does the slightly lower stance and performance tires. Am a little put off tho' by the problems listed in this and other sites about chronic oil leaks in the 5.4 engine series block/head. Does anyone know if this problem has been fixed or is it still a work in progress? I would like the truck better if it had a bench rear seat too. The two captain's chairs in the rear don't make a lot of sense, but hey a pick up you can't haul much in doesn't make much either!
  • chop420chop420 Posts: 7
    I currently own a 2000 Volvo S70 GLT and I'm considering a major switch to a Ford F150! I've thought about it for awhile and I think a truck may be more useful than my Volvo. I only put on about 10K miles/year and have a 12 mile all highway commute to work. Also, it seems the ride and drive of the F150 is pretty good, although not at all like my Volvo. My question to owners of the F150, how is it for everyday use? And for someone who has only owned one truck, 1989 Ranger, will I find uses for the truck after I own it that I don't really know about now (i.e. "how did I ever live without this truck"
  • It's not as strange as it sounds. It will confuse those who know you more than you might think. I owned a Lexus ES300 a couple of years ago, and have spent the last two years and 80K miles (yes, 80K) in a 99 F150 Lariat Extended Cab, 2wd, with 5.4 V8.

    The first thing you notice is that every weekend, someone you know (relatives, friends, people who want to make friends because they need you...) will need your truck to move something. Sometimes, the really bold ones will want (expect) you to come with the truck. Set your "I don't lift furniture, haul antiques, or tow farm implements" policy early, and stick to it.

    Obviously, with 80K miles in two years, I've spent quite a bit of time in the truck. It works well in traffic, is comfortable on the highway, and really handles O.K. It's a bit harder to find parking, but you'll adjust. The gas mileage sucks, but you have to have already figured that out. The rear wheels spin on wet surfaces at takeoff sometimes, which will be another adjustment in driving style.

    The incentives are great on these now, and they're really quite affordable. I'm about to move back into the sports sedan category, but it hasn't been a bad couple of years with the truck (although my back is still aching from the weekend chores of my friends).

    Good Luck.
  • 3fan23fan2 Posts: 6
    Just got my 02 F-150 supercrew. I love it. Plenty of room, very comfortable. Lots of luggage space if needed. I have the Bedrug and ARE lid. Plenty of rear seat room. Rides great. Looks good. Our first truck and we love it.
  • jps6jps6 Posts: 6
    I'm buying an older {1993} F 150 supercab XLT LB 4X4 in 2 weeks. I love this truck, but in checking out several fords of the exact year and model, I've discovered some have a tailgate with the aluminum treatment and the smaller ford logo, while the one I'm buying has the traditional F O R D in big letters across the back of the tailgate.It sure looks like the original tailgate of the same year. Can someone help me out with this non-life threatening yet puzzling dilemma? THANKS!
  • You are correct, their is a coilpack to be removed over each plug. You'll need a 7mm socket to remove the coilpacks, a 1/4' swivel(universal) adapter, a few 1/4 " extensions, a 5/8" Spark Plug socket, several lengths of 3/8" extensions & a 3/8" universal, as well as a couple of rachets. Remove the 7mm screws holding the coilpacks on, then gently twist the coilpack to release the attached boot that covers the wire to the plug, until it breaks loose from the plug. Now pull the coilpack/boot assembly out in one piece if you can. If the boot separates, don't panic it will slip back onto the coilpack easily enough. If you have an air compressor, blow around the plugs before removing them to dislodge any trash that may have accumulated in the plug recess. Next lower the plug socket on a 4"-6" extension until you get it onto the plug, loosen & remove the plug. The plugs are recessed 5 or 6 inches into the head. After this, gap the new plug, push it into the plug socket & ease it into the hole, it will line up almost every time. Retighten the plug, replace the coilpack, screw it down & go to the next plug. It's an easy job, but can be frustrating if you get in a hurry, especially the 3rd plug back on the driver's side & the 2 rearmost plugs. Lastly, you will drop a coilpack screw or 2 so before you start, go ahead & get your extendable magnet out. Good luck...
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  • trex997trex997 Posts: 1
    I have a '97 F150 Lariet 4x2 Extended Cab with sliding glass rear window. The problem is that when it rains I have a leaking problem. It drips down the back seat slightly to the passenger side. The headboard(?) is stained like it is leaking from the roof but I can't find any holes or cracks. I am thinking it is coming from the sliding window or the third brake light. Anyone with similar problem, or ideas on how to fix this would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Hello Cindy, I'm not sure how to fix the grind. more than likely a bad synchro. I drove tractor trailer for 20 years, and none of the trucks we drove had any synchronizers. We had to get the engine and transmission turning at the same speed, roughly. This requires a simple procedure called double clutching. Simply put when upshifting 2nd to 3rd let out the clutch on the way between gears. Do not rev the motor, as this will defeat the purpose. Just make sure you are in neutral when you briefly let out the clutch, before you shift into third. When down shifting, same thing, only slightly rev the engine when down shifting from 4th to 3rd. This momentary letting out the clutch in between gears gets your engine and transmission turning at almost the same speed, which is the job the synchros are supposed to do. As I said earlier we used 10 speed fuller transmissions that had no synchronizers in any of the gears. I'm probably making this sound a lot harder than it is. With a little practice it gets easy, and is good for the longevity of the tranny. Not meaning to replace having it repaired, but it will make the truck usable until a repair happens, if ever knowing Ford from past experience. It would help if you have a friend or family member that's a trucker to talk you through it. Good Luck.... Leo
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    How can I determine, by looking at the OUTSIDE of the rear differential case, if an F-150 has limited slip ? Are there codes stamped into the housing ? A tag ? Is there a way, using the VIN number, to determine this ? Do I need to contact ford ? The truck is a 2001 F-150 Supercab 2x4 "Sport" XLT. thanks.
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