The trucks with dual tanks have 3 electric fuel pumps. Two low pressure in-tank pumps, 1 each inside of the front and rear tanks, pump fuel into a reservoir (the canister you speak of). A high pressure frame mounted in-line pump then takes the fuel from this reservoir to the fuel injectors. Check the in-tank fuel pump in the rear tank to see if it is working. If it quits for any reason, the reservoir has enough gas to prevent fuel starvation when changing tanks and might hold enough to go this distance. The tank selector switch on the dash controls which tank’s fuel pump is operating and pressure from the selected tank’s pump in turn moves a diaphragm operated valve in the reservoir to control that the selected tank supplies fuel to the in-line high pressure pump as well as directing the return fuel line to the selected tank. One symptom of malfunctioning of this dual function reservoir is apparent poor fuel mileage on one tank, and good mileage or overflowing of the other tank. Hope this is of some help. AJ
I recently purchased a used 2000 F150 4x4 with the triton v8 5.4. It is a automatic transmission with the automatic overdrive, Is it normal to kick into gear a little harder when accelerating at a faster speed. When I'm going 65, and push it to pass another vehicle, getting the rpms up to 3 or 4, when it cuts back to 2 rpms, it seems to be a harder shift pattern. Is this normal or do I need to take it in for a transmission check up?
Purchased truck about 3 weeks ago. Filled both tanks. Ran truck on front tank tank till about 1/4 full. Filled front tank and started running on rear tank. Ran till about 1/8 full. Refilled rear tank and started running on front tank again. Started making a buzzing sound, and runs really crappy on front tank. If I switch to rear tank, the buzz goes away and runs fine. However, the front tank shows past the full mark quite a bit now, and fuel mileage is terrible. Sounds like the front tank is sucking air when I switch to it, also.
Would it be the front tank pump, or the high pressure pump. I only get the buzzing sound when switched to the front tank. How big a job is it to replace the "in tank" fuel pump. (The front tank is FULL). Can I siphon the fuel out of this tank with a hose? or is there an anit-siphon divice?
After re-reading post #210, decided to check further. Switched lines from tanks on reservoir. Problem switched to other tank. Indicates a bad reservoir. Got a new one at local Ford dealership (Parts stores did not have one).
Cost with tax....$103.95.
AJ, your advice helped me also, in addition to (fmg). THANKS!
Talk about good timing, what are the chances of getting on one of these boards with a problem and somebody else has the same exact problem at almost the same exact time. Cool!
I haven't installed the reservoir yet but am 99.9% confident this is the problem.
Okay I have a 1991 F-150 Custom... It's got the 4.9 in it - it has the dual tanks and all that stuff... Truck has been running fine - in fact I just had the whole front end rebuilt to cut down on shaking (worked like a charm).. Now I don't know a whole lot about cars so some of my terminology might be a bit off...
So my problem is that my truck won't start... I originally thought it was the battery terminals - so I bought some new ones and it worked.. but then it stopped again and wouldnt start back up (even jumping it wouldnt help) so then I thought it might be the batter cuz when I turned the key - the batter guage went all the way down to 8V and i've never noticed if it did that before or not...
So I bought a new battery - didnt fix the problem... I had my uncle tow it to his repo-lot and had his lot tech look at it for me - and he pulled the black hose off the fuel regulator thingy that goes toward the engine (sorry for the message being vague) - it's the hose that like spits off into two.. he took one of those off and sprayed some starter fluid into it and cranked it and it started right up but then died...
Any ideas what it might be? Any help is appreciated.
Well, the reservoir/selector valve was my problem. Other than one of the cast in nuts slipping and having to pry the old on off the frame rail, it went back together nicely and runs fine again.
jblack1 - Sounds like you have a fuel problem also. I don't know a lot about these trucks, but with my problem I found out they have a lot of diffferent set-ups as far the fuel system is concerned. I expect you have fuel injectors, in which case you should have somewhere above 50 psi.fuel pressure at the engine. If not, then you probably have a fuel pump problem also. Try switching your selector to the other tank, if you get the same result, and you have low pressure, it's likely the high pressure pump, if you only have the problem on one tank, then it may be an in-tank pump, or maybe you'll be lucky and have the problem in the selector/valve. In which case you won't have to drop a tank.
Mine which was the selector valve, would start but then it would just die if I left it idle, or it would hardly run on one tank, (along with a buzzing sound) but when I switched to the other tank it ran fine.
Don't know if this helps or not, but it's worth looking into. Good luck!
Yeah when I do have fuel injection - and when I switch the tank selector switch to the front one it doesn't start up either.... Right now the only time it starts is when I spray starter fluid or gas into the blank tube under the engine that connects to the Fuel Regulator or something like that (Truck is still at my uncles repo-lot and i dont know much about the naming of the parts)... Then it starts out perfectly..
How do I check to see if it's a low PSI problem that i'm having?
Also - I noticed normally when i would turn the key to the on position you'd hear something start to hum... to me it sounded like it was coming from the engine compartment somewhere but that may not be the case...
You'll need to borrow a gauge from someone or have someone test it for you. Unhook the fuel line at the engine and attach the pressure gage. It will tell you how much pressure the fuel pump is making.
The fuel pumps are electric so just turning the key part way (to the "on" position) will make it run. You don't need to turn it all the way to the start position.
If you are not a mechanical minded person, I would recommend you take it (or have it towed) to a mechanic.
Hi, I've had a problem with my 89 f150 xlt lariat, mainly oil pressure, changed sending unit & pump, still a problem. I was wondering if you could tell me where the oil pressure sensor is and how much do they cost ? Any help would be very much appreciated ! Thanks, Tracey
I have a 1990 -f-150 extended cab 5.0 liter v-8 dual tanks.
when i start the truck and drive for 30 to 45 minutes it just quits when it quits if i attempt to restart the starter drags as if the battery is low on charge, which is not the case. and will not restart for a period of time (usually 30 to 45 minutes). then it will start and run in the same way as i have described above. i used to be a ford dealer elec systems tech and i dont recall a problem quite like this.
i have been told by variuos sources that it could be the TFI module ,the EEC or the rear fuel pump ,the front pump was inoperable when i purchased it. does any body have any ideas as this is getting to be a pain in the A**.
Does anyone know of solutions to a brake problem with my 2004 F-150? From the beginning, and now at 32,000 miles, I have been into the dealer 7 times because of vibrations (warped rotors mostly). This is getting ridiculous. I have been told every line, from brake shorter & harder, to the pads are now harder than the rotors, to...You name it. Well, bottom line is, they're giving up on working them. I have even had the rotors replaced 11,000 & 23,000. As a repeat F-150 owner, I have never had such problems with brake wear. Does anyone have a solution? Would be greatly appreciated!!! Obviously, I'd like to avoid going through brakes every 9-15k miles for the rest of the vehicles life!...P.S. I rarely drive in the city & very rarely tow anything. Thank you in advance for your help & suggestions.
My front and rear rotors/pads were replaced on my '04 F150 REG cab with 31K miles. Fortunately, Ford service department has been great! I've read here and at other F150 sites that the original equipment aluminum wheels (F150 2WD 17" cast aluminum) may not allow the proper air flow to cool the brakes. The '04 wheels are not available in "05. I have the 75K ESP and may get a chance to use it. Front rotors were replaced at 23K with no further problems to date. The rear rotors were replaced at 28K.
Options are to: a) hope the replacements hold up; b) replace the rotors/pads with premium after-market (to expensive for my taste); or c) replace the wheels. I'm sticking with a) for now. Best of luck!
Thanks gasman1. None are cheap alternatives, of course. But I didn't pay attention to the '05's to notice they don't make put those wheels on anymore...Hmmmmm....Very interesting!
Ok im new to this and thought I'd give it a try. Im having problems with my oil pressure gauge on my 1989 F150. It will show in the normal range when i turn my key on but the needle will bury itself towards the left side when engine is running. I changed out the pick up switch or sending unit (whatever its called). but get the same results.This leaves me to think the actual "gauge" is working properly since it registers with key in the on pos. or engine running. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
I am a woman with a 2x4 F150 XLT with the 5.4 engine and you know what??? I can drive that 2x4 in all kinds of weather and road conditions. If you know how to drive then you don't need all four wheels to do the work for you. It is all a matter of control and speed in iffy road conditions. Remember, before there was the all-wheel-drive there was just the rear wheel drive. So when looking for a truck don't overlook the 2x4. I wouldn't suggest the mini trucks because they do not have enough weight in the truck as a whole to give you enough traction to drive! P.S. I love my ford truck built tough!
Will any other f150 model have a radiator or throttle cable that is compatable with an 89 f150. I ask cause the local salvage yard doesn't specifically have an 89.
Does any of the other gauges act up when your having problems with oil pres.? If so, there is a constant voltage regulator (part # D1AZ-10804-A) that could be the problem as it controls the voltage to the oil pres. and (I think) the amp meter. This reg. is located on the instrument printed circuit board (you'll have to pull the cluster) and is about 2" long and 1" wide, two wires going to it with a small attatching bracket. They list for about $70, but you can shop on this as there's lots of mark-up in them, but I think it's a dealer item only. An aggressive dealer will give you a break. If this is not it, it's the dash unit and it'll come with whatever gauge is close to it, like the amp gauge(?). If you don't have a way of checking which it is, you might inquire as to the price of diagnosing this. It may be worth your while.
I'm working on a '91 F-150 4.9L 4X4 LWB with the dual-tank setup (18.2 rear, 17 midship). The rear tank came with a pretty good leak at the 3-gallon mark or so, and the front tank recently stopped supplying enough gas to keep the fire going. I replaced the rear tank and pump, and it now runs fine on it, but it seems to be feeding a lot of gas from the tank, based on the rapid fall of the rear gauge. I suspect the reservoir is feeding return-line gas to the front tank instead of the rear, but can't be sure since the front gauge is pegged on E. I'm trying to find a replacement front tank and pump, but so far no luck. I'm beginning to lean toward removing the front tank altogether and capping the lines until I can find replacement parts (if needed) and spend some time working on it. (Finally) here are my questions:
1) The wiring diagram shows only 2 pumps, and I can't find the 3rd high-pressure pump you refer to. Where is it, exactly? Are you sure this isn't a Diesel-only pump?
2) I only have a vague idea of where the reservoir is, and am beginning to think an investment in removing the truck bed before continuing the assault on the fuel system is in order. Any opinions on that?
hey... i have a '98 F-150... its only got at 4.2L V-6 but i installed a flowmaster dual exhaust and a K&N intake filter... which increased horsepower and gas milage some... im looking for the next thing to spend my money on... mainly looking for horsepower... have any suggestions??
i'm hoping someone here could help me. we just bought this truck recently and it did not come with a user's manual. i contacted ford and the best they could do is to tell me that they will send me their towing guide which contains a formual that i can use to figure out my towing capacity. they said i should have the guide in 14 days or so...grrr!!! anyway, if anyone has an idea of what the towing capacity on this truck is, i would really appreciated. i'm shopping for a horse trailer and don't want to commit myself to something that will be too heavy. thanks!
You didn't say what cab configuration or axle ratio you have, but I'm reading this out of my ('94) owner's manual and it should be the same. With a 3.08 axle, stnd. cab, it's 2200 lbs. and Super Cab...1900 lbs. With a 3.55 axle, stnd. cab... 3600lbs. and a Super Cab...3300 lbs....and these, I'm sure are assuming that the running gear is in excellent cond.
I don't know what a single horse trailer weighs empty, but by the time you get a horse in it, I'd emagine you'll be over capacity acording to these specs. You'd also need to check tongue weight as well.
I would have to think that towing ANY horse trailer (loaded) you'd need at least a 3/4 ton to 1 ton truck.
thanks! that does seem v. low. i know many people who haul with half ton trucks without a problem. but you're correct. at minimum you have to plan that the trailer will weigh 2000lbs and then one horse probably another 1000 or more.
Re read my post # 210 so you have a fresh take on how the fuel supply system works and then rethink your situation. If your truck runs on the rear tank, then we can assume that the rear in-tank pump is powered and working, and the frame mounted high pressure pump is OK as well. Check the operation of the tank selector switch on the dash to insure that it supplies power to the selected tanks pump in each position (and only to the tank selected). You should also be able to check the fuel levels in each tank with the key on and the switch in the correct position. This switch controls the power to the selected tanks fuel pump, as well as the output of its fuel level sending unit. If everything checks out to this point, then I suspect your problem is with the combination reservoir/tank selector., which looks like a black plastic filter and is mounted to the frame under the drivers side of the cab. Could be mounted slightly different on a 4x but will be in the line between the hp pump and the fuel tank. Its purpose is to provide the correct alignment of the supply and return fuel lines as well as providing a continuous supply of gas to the hp pump when changing between tanks. Sorry for the slow response and hope this helps.
I have had a 2002 F150 for 2 years. I have had the rotors turned 3 times. I mostly do highway driving (cruise control), and some light duty house work on the weekends. So I wouldn't exactly call it an "abusive" environment. Ford sells a premium rotor that is 3/8" thicker, which, interestingly enough, still fits into the stock caliper. Their stock rotors just suck, they aren't thick enough.
Do you have the exact name of the reservoir as described by FORD? I believe I need one. I thought it was called a fuel tank tranfer valve. Thanks........Paul
:sick: i have had my f150 since feb 04 i use it for work i have had to replace my rotors four times first two times was with a non ford dealer second two times was with a ford dealer they told me the new 05 was replaced with an upgraded brake system and they put that in my truck still having problems i replaced them on avr every 12k that is ludicus i will be trading it in for sorry to say chevy.
I am looking to purchase a 2000 F-150 Ford that is listed as a Lariat package, but what features are normally included in such a package to call it a Lariat ? Isn't leather interior a common feature ?
I am in Alaska and originally from Vermont. Rear wheel drives do allright with Snow tires, not allseasons and preferably with studs, check local restrictions. Put additional weight in the back 200 pounds or more and as long as you are not a leadfoot you should do all right. Through time when you can afford it get a Four wheel drive but once again do not be a lead foot, even with four wheel drive you can end up in the dicth if you are going to fast.
i was wondering is y'all could help me. i have a 2004 regular cab FX4. thats right a 04 regular cab FX4. i have a vibration when i first take off no mater how hard the accelorater is pushed and when traveling 25-30 mph no matter if accelerating, braking, or just idiling along at that speed. hell, you could probably roll the truck down a hill in nuetral and it would probaby vibrate at 25 mph. i have had it back at the dealer total of 4 times now, in-fact i just got back from geting it tonight. they have replaced the driveshaft, u-joint at rear end, adjusted the pinion angle, and they also told me they can't fix it. the truck has 10,500 miles. it is regular cab fx4 with i have found it is very rare at least in southeastern virginia. i have a feeling the problem is mostly because the back end is so much higher than the front. i live on a farm, so as you can guess the truck has seen its share of off road. i am not talking about rock climbing or mud bogging, i am just talking about average off roading to get through fields. i have not pulled anything with it or have i loaded the truck down. the most i have put on it is about 800 pounds. this is the only problem i have had with it. every other aspect of this truck works perfectly, i wouldn't trade it for anything. i just need to get this vibration fixed. so if any of yall have had the same problems please let me know. thanks
Hello Watts1, As an owner of a f150 tweo wheel drive I would recommend a f250 with 4-wheel drive with an extended warranty especially on the transmission. They are overall great trucks but hauling a horse from Mass to Vermont can be very wearing on a tranny
JUST HAD MY O4 F-150 SUPERCAB IN THE SHOP FOR REAR-END NOISE. THE DEALER TOLD ME THEY JUST GOT A MAINTENANCE BULLETIN FROM FORD ABOUT REAR-END PROBLEMS. SO I WOULD ASK YOUR DEALER ABOUT IT. MINE NEEDS A NEW RACK AND PINION ASSEMBLY. JUST ANOTHER DAY AT THE FORD SHOP. HAVE HAD FUEL INJECTION, DRIVERS WINDOW MECHINISM, A/C UNIT, CARPET AND NOW REAR-END REPAIR AND ONLY 21,000 MILES. TRADING FOR AN 06 GM SOON AS I CAN.
I HAVE A F-150 SUPERCAB WITH 21,000 MILES ON IT. SO FAR THEY HAVE REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY FOR THE FUEL INJECTION, THE A/C SYSTEM, CARPET RUINED FROM A/C SYSTEM LEAK, DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW MECHANISM AND AM NOW WAITING FOR PARTS FOR THE REAR END. THINK I'D TRY SOMETHING ELSE. I'M TRADING FOR A CHEVY ALLWAYS HAD CHEVYS BEFORE AND NEVER HAD MUCH TROUBLE WITH THEM. GOOD LUCK.
Just a quick note to request that you turn your CapsLock off when posting. It makes things more difficult to read, and on the internet is usually considered shouting.
Hey everyone, I have alot of questions to ask. so here goes. I own a '03 F 140 4X4 with a 4.2L V6. It runs great with 41,000 Miles. This engine has know power at all (on the Highway) Off road no problem. I want to replace that engine with the Lightning engine or at least the Big V8 of the Triton. I do understand that I will have to replace the Trans. and rebuild the rear end. Is this the best way to go? I love my truck and I want to keep it till it rusts to the ground. Any suggestions please E-Mail me at sailorfred17@yahoo.com.
Well, my '89 F150 fuel problem has started again. I replaced the reservoir/selector tank as noted in my previous post. Did a fuel pressure check and the results showed nothing. Key on - engine off: Both tanks 12-15# Engine idle: 32# - Turn engine off and pressure rises to 38# Both tanks.
Truck runs fine on rear tank, front tank will run about 5 mins at idle, buzzing sound increases, fuel pressure will remain constant until buzzing escalates to a point then pressure drops to nothing and engine dies.
Note: if we switch lines at the reservoir/selector tank, then the problem moves to the opposite tank. (Front selected, but actually running on rear tank).
Talked to sevice manager at Ford, did some checking around, his suggestion: "It's an old truck, you don't drive it much, just run it on the one tank and don't dump a bunch more money into it."
My question now is, should I leave the front tank full, and just use it as ballast? Or should I run it out and then use one tank. It's like 60 bucks worth of gas.
How hard is it to change the selector switch on the dash? Maybe that's the problem. I checked for bad fuses, they seem to be alright.
A couple of things to check before giving up. Are you using the original Ford gas caps? After market caps could be a problem. Are you sure the lines to and from the reservoir are hooked up correctly? Only one or the other in tank pump should have power at any time, not both. The best manual covering both operation and diagnosis of this component is the original Ford factory manual. These are very detailed, unlike the newer manuals which no longer cover things step by step. The volume you need is as follows.
Truck Shop Manual 1989 Volume B Light Duty Truck E, F-150 through 350, F-Super Duty, Bronco Engine
These might be hard to find with eBay being one possible source. Factory Automanuals has the 3 volume set covering the entire truck for $65.00 plus shipping (the price of that tank of gas) and can be ordered at http://tinyurl.com/dpe76
This is not rocket science - I think I would find another Ford dealer!
Further to my message #262. Seems the Url for Factory Automanuals must get disabled by the moderators – just do a google search for them if you want to buy the manuals.
In your note “If we switch lines at the reservoir/selector tank, then the problem moves to the opposite tank. (Front selected, but actually running on rear tank).”
This is not possible unless you swapped the in-tank fuel pump power leads as well. The dash switch when in the front tank position, powers the front tank’s fuel pump, which in turn uses the pressure of the fuel from the front tank ‘s pump to position the diaphragm operated valve in the reservoir/selector to align the supply and return lines insuring the excess fuel coming from the engine fuel rail regulator is returned to the tank it came from. The fuel will always come from the tank the dash selector switch is indicating, no matter how you reverse the lines, if no one has modified the wiring. I think I would test each tank’s fuel pump static pressure before the reservoir to insure they are working. They should provide a pressure of between 2 to 4 lbs (max 5lbs) to the reservoir. The buzzing noise you hear could be the high pressure pump speeding up as the in-tank pump on the front tank fails to provide the necessary pressure to operate the selector valve in the reservoir, thus starving the high pressure pump. It could well idle for a few minutes after changing tanks on the fuel stored in the reservoir, as its purpose is to prevent fuel starvation when changing from one tank to the other. Sorry That I can’t simplify my explanation any further, I can see the system clearly in my head, but the keyboard can’t read my mind .
I just purchased a 2001 F 150, and I'm trying to figure out if getting this extended warranty is a good Idea. Does anyone know where I can find info about the typical lifespan and timeline of when things will start to fall apart on my truck, given routine maintenance. and low milage.
Comments
The trucks with dual tanks have 3 electric fuel pumps. Two low pressure in-tank pumps, 1 each inside of the front and rear tanks, pump fuel into a reservoir (the canister you speak of). A high pressure frame mounted in-line pump then takes the fuel from this reservoir to the fuel injectors.
Check the in-tank fuel pump in the rear tank to see if it is working. If it quits for any reason, the reservoir has enough gas to prevent fuel starvation when changing tanks and might hold enough to go this distance.
The tank selector switch on the dash controls which tank’s fuel pump is operating and pressure from the selected tank’s pump in turn moves a diaphragm operated valve in the reservoir to control that the selected tank supplies fuel to the in-line high pressure pump as well as directing the return fuel line to the selected tank. One symptom of malfunctioning of this dual function reservoir is apparent poor fuel mileage on one tank, and good mileage or overflowing of the other tank.
Hope this is of some help.
AJ
Purchased truck about 3 weeks ago. Filled both tanks.
Ran truck on front tank tank till about 1/4 full.
Filled front tank and started running on rear tank. Ran till about 1/8 full.
Refilled rear tank and started running on front tank again.
Started making a buzzing sound, and runs really crappy on front tank. If I switch to rear tank, the buzz goes away and runs fine. However, the front tank shows past the full mark quite a bit now, and fuel mileage is terrible. Sounds like the front tank is sucking air when I switch to it, also.
Would it be the front tank pump, or the high pressure pump. I only get the buzzing sound when switched to the front tank. How big a job is it to replace the "in tank" fuel pump. (The front tank is FULL). Can I siphon the fuel out of this tank with a hose? or is there an anit-siphon divice?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks in advance.
Ken
Ken
I finally got off my lazy butt and subscribed to the forums hehehe...
I have a Silver 2000 SVT Lightning...and just wanted to say hello...
Scooter
Got a new one at local Ford dealership (Parts stores did not have one).
Cost with tax....$103.95.
AJ, your advice helped me also, in addition to (fmg). THANKS!
Talk about good timing, what are the chances of getting on one of these boards with a problem and somebody else has the same exact problem at almost the same exact time. Cool!
I haven't installed the reservoir yet but am 99.9% confident this is the problem.
Ken
So my problem is that my truck won't start... I originally thought it was the battery terminals - so I bought some new ones and it worked.. but then it stopped again and wouldnt start back up (even jumping it wouldnt help) so then I thought it might be the batter cuz when I turned the key - the batter guage went all the way down to 8V and i've never noticed if it did that before or not...
So I bought a new battery - didnt fix the problem... I had my uncle tow it to his repo-lot and had his lot tech look at it for me - and he pulled the black hose off the fuel regulator thingy that goes toward the engine (sorry for the message being vague) - it's the hose that like spits off into two.. he took one of those off and sprayed some starter fluid into it and cranked it and it started right up but then died...
Any ideas what it might be? Any help is appreciated.
jblack1 - Sounds like you have a fuel problem also. I don't know a lot about these trucks, but with my problem I found out they have a lot of diffferent set-ups as far the fuel system is concerned. I expect you have fuel injectors, in which case you should have somewhere above 50 psi.fuel pressure at the engine. If not, then you probably have a fuel pump problem also. Try switching your selector to the other tank, if you get the same result, and you have low pressure, it's likely the high pressure pump, if you only have the problem on one tank, then it may be an in-tank pump, or maybe you'll be lucky and have the problem in the selector/valve. In which case you won't have to drop a tank.
Mine which was the selector valve, would start but then it would just die if I left it idle, or it would hardly run on one tank, (along with a buzzing sound) but when I switched to the other tank it ran fine.
Don't know if this helps or not, but it's worth looking into. Good luck!
Ken
How do I check to see if it's a low PSI problem that i'm having?
Also - I noticed normally when i would turn the key to the on position you'd hear something start to hum... to me it sounded like it was coming from the engine compartment somewhere but that may not be the case...
The fuel pumps are electric so just turning the key part way (to the "on" position) will make it run. You don't need to turn it all the way to the start position.
If you are not a mechanical minded person, I would recommend you take it (or have it towed) to a mechanic.
Ken
I have a 1990 -f-150 extended cab 5.0 liter v-8 dual tanks.
when i start the truck and drive for 30 to 45 minutes it just quits
when it quits if i attempt to restart the starter drags as if the battery is low on charge, which is not the case. and will not restart for a period of time (usually 30 to 45 minutes).
then it will start and run in the same way as i have described above.
i used to be a ford dealer elec systems tech and i dont recall a
problem quite like this.
i have been told by variuos sources that it could be the TFI module ,the EEC or the rear fuel pump ,the front pump was inoperable when i purchased it. does any body have any ideas as this is getting to be a pain in the A**.
Options are to: a) hope the replacements hold up; b) replace the rotors/pads with premium after-market (to expensive for my taste); or c) replace the wheels. I'm sticking with a) for now. Best of luck!
Thanks
Russell Chadwick
I am a woman with a 2x4 F150 XLT with the 5.4 engine and you know what??? I can drive that 2x4 in all kinds of weather and road conditions. If you know how to drive then you don't need all four wheels to do the work for you. It is all a matter of control and speed in iffy road conditions. Remember, before there was the all-wheel-drive there was just the rear wheel drive. So when looking for a truck don't overlook the 2x4. I wouldn't suggest the mini trucks because they do not have enough weight in the truck as a whole to give you enough traction to drive! P.S. I love my ford truck built tough!
Does any of the other gauges act up when your having problems with oil pres.? If so, there is a constant voltage regulator (part # D1AZ-10804-A) that could be the problem as it controls the voltage to the oil pres. and (I think) the amp meter. This reg. is located on the instrument printed circuit board (you'll have to pull the cluster) and is about 2" long and 1" wide, two wires going to it with a small attatching bracket. They list for about $70, but you can shop on this as there's lots of mark-up in them, but I think it's a dealer item only. An aggressive dealer will give you a break. If this is not it, it's the dash unit and it'll come with whatever gauge is close to it, like the amp gauge(?). If you don't have a way of checking which it is, you might inquire as to the price of diagnosing this. It may be worth your while.
Good luck, Gator
1) The wiring diagram shows only 2 pumps, and I can't find the 3rd high-pressure pump you refer to. Where is it, exactly? Are you sure this isn't a Diesel-only pump?
2) I only have a vague idea of where the reservoir is, and am beginning to think an investment in removing the truck bed before continuing the assault on the fuel system is in order. Any opinions on that?
mfa
check out this link about spark plug problems, etc. Whether or not Ford has attended this matter, is not yet clear.
here's a link to consumer affairs section on f150's. you can do a search to see if anyone has had a similar problem here...
anyway, if anyone has an idea of what the towing capacity on this truck is, i would really appreciated. i'm shopping for a horse trailer and don't want to commit myself to something that will be too heavy.
thanks!
I don't know what a single horse trailer weighs empty, but by the time you get a horse in it, I'd emagine you'll be over capacity acording to these specs. You'd also need to check tongue weight as well.
I would have to think that towing ANY horse trailer (loaded) you'd need at least a 3/4 ton to 1 ton truck.
that does seem v. low.
i know many people who haul with half ton trucks without a problem. but you're correct. at minimum you have to plan that the trailer will weigh 2000lbs and then one horse probably another 1000 or more.
kcram - Pickups Host
Re read my post # 210 so you have a fresh take on how the fuel supply system works and then rethink your situation. If your truck runs on the rear tank, then we can assume that the rear in-tank pump is powered and working, and the frame mounted high pressure pump is OK as well. Check the operation of the tank selector switch on the dash to insure that it supplies power to the selected tanks pump in each position (and only to the tank selected). You should also be able to check the fuel levels in each tank with the key on and the switch in the correct position. This switch controls the power to the selected tanks fuel pump, as well as the output of its fuel level sending unit. If everything checks out to this point, then I suspect your problem is with the combination reservoir/tank selector., which looks like a black plastic filter and is mounted to the frame under the drivers side of the cab. Could be mounted slightly different on a 4x but will be in the line between the hp pump and the fuel tank. Its purpose is to provide the correct alignment of the supply and return fuel lines as well as providing a continuous supply of gas to the hp pump when changing between tanks. Sorry for the slow response and hope this helps.
Regards
AJ
I have the same fuel pump problem as you have described. There are some listed recalls that Ford will fix. Any luck with it so far?
I am going to check out the dealership on the recall issue, but please let me know if you have solved it.
Thanks, Marcus
Ford sells a premium rotor that is 3/8" thicker, which, interestingly enough, still fits into the stock caliper.
Their stock rotors just suck, they aren't thick enough.
Do you have the exact name of the reservoir as described by FORD? I believe I need one. I thought it was called a fuel tank tranfer valve. Thanks........Paul
Russ
Any thoughts ?
grinch412
Put additional weight in the back 200 pounds or more and as long as you are not a leadfoot you should do all right. Through time when you can afford it get a Four wheel drive but once again do not be a lead foot, even with four wheel drive you can end up in the dicth if you are going to fast.
thanks
kcram - Pickups Host
As an owner of a f150 tweo wheel drive I would recommend a f250 with 4-wheel drive with an extended warranty especially on the transmission. They are overall great trucks but hauling a horse from Mass to Vermont can be very wearing on a tranny
Just a quick note to request that you turn your CapsLock off when posting. It makes things more difficult to read, and on the internet is usually considered shouting.
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
Key on - engine off: Both tanks 12-15#
Engine idle: 32# - Turn engine off and pressure rises to 38# Both tanks.
Truck runs fine on rear tank, front tank will run about 5 mins at idle, buzzing sound increases, fuel pressure will remain constant until buzzing escalates to a point then pressure drops to nothing and engine dies.
Note: if we switch lines at the reservoir/selector tank, then the problem moves to the opposite tank. (Front selected, but actually running on rear tank).
Talked to sevice manager at Ford, did some checking around, his suggestion:
"It's an old truck, you don't drive it much, just run it on the one tank and don't dump a bunch more money into it."
My question now is, should I leave the front tank full, and just use it as ballast? Or should I run it out and then use one tank. It's like 60 bucks worth of gas.
How hard is it to change the selector switch on the dash? Maybe that's the problem. I checked for bad fuses, they seem to be alright.
Ken
A couple of things to check before giving up.
Are you using the original Ford gas caps? After market caps could be a problem. Are you sure the lines to and from the reservoir are hooked up correctly?
Only one or the other in tank pump should have power at any time, not both.
The best manual covering both operation and diagnosis of this component is the original Ford factory manual. These are very detailed, unlike the newer manuals which no longer cover things step by step. The volume you need is as follows.
Truck Shop Manual
1989
Volume B
Light Duty Truck
E, F-150 through 350, F-Super Duty, Bronco
Engine
These might be hard to find with eBay being one possible source.
Factory Automanuals has the 3 volume set covering the entire truck for $65.00 plus shipping (the price of that tank of gas) and can be ordered at
http://tinyurl.com/dpe76
This is not rocket science - I think I would find another Ford dealer!
Regards
Art
Further to my message #262.
Seems the Url for Factory Automanuals must get disabled by the moderators – just do a google search for them if you want to buy the manuals.
In your note
“If we switch lines at the reservoir/selector tank, then the problem moves to the opposite tank. (Front selected, but actually running on rear tank).”
This is not possible unless you swapped the in-tank fuel pump power leads as well. The dash switch when in the front tank position, powers the front tank’s fuel pump, which in turn uses the pressure of the fuel from the front tank ‘s pump to position the diaphragm operated valve in the reservoir/selector to align the supply and return lines insuring the excess fuel coming from the engine fuel rail regulator is returned to the tank it came from. The fuel will always come from the tank the dash selector switch is indicating, no matter how you reverse the lines, if no one has modified the wiring. I think I would test each tank’s fuel pump static pressure before the reservoir to insure they are working. They should provide a pressure of between 2 to 4 lbs (max 5lbs) to the reservoir.
The buzzing noise you hear could be the high pressure pump speeding up as the in-tank pump on the front tank fails to provide the necessary pressure to operate the selector valve in the reservoir, thus starving the high pressure pump. It could well idle for a few minutes after changing tanks on the fuel stored in the reservoir, as its purpose is to prevent fuel starvation when changing from one tank to the other. Sorry That I can’t simplify my explanation any further, I can see the system clearly in my head, but the keyboard can’t read my mind .
Regards
Art
I just purchased a 2001 F 150, and I'm trying to figure out if getting this extended warranty is a good Idea. Does anyone know where I can find info about the typical lifespan and timeline of when things will start to fall apart on my truck, given routine maintenance. and low milage.