Unless the dealer did something other than what is stated in the installation instructions there should be nothing done to the belts.
Is there any sign that a bit of PS fluid may have spilled on the belt?
Similarly, the addition of the 'transmission cooler' involves NO CHANGE to the transmission, the torque converter, nor ECM.
As long as the technicians PROPERLY installed the fittings, checked the power steering & transmissions fluid levels and left everything as it should be there should be NO NOTICEABLE CHANGES!
I would strongly recommend checking the fluid levels ASAP to verify that they are OK. If they are OK I would suggest that there is NO CHANGE,just that you are paying more attention to the various sounds/motions the Pilot is generating...
BTW I believe the comparison being made between Isuzu transmissions is really a measure of how the automatic transmission has been designed to engage/disengage gears during upshifts/downshifts. Basically the transmission fluid moves the valve body to shift gears. This 'fluid programming' is determined by the valves/check balls in the transmission valve body. It is essentially UNALTERABLE without removing the valve body and drilling/modifying the valving.
It is true that 'harsher' shifts tend to to result in lower transmission operating temperatures. It is very possible to design seals that can withstand many hundreds of thousands of mile of high temps and still shift very very smoothly. Generally, a smoothly shifting transmission can last as long as one that abruptly shifts. An abruptly shifting transmission can adversely affect the life of all driveline components.
The torque converter is a different beast altogether. It acts as a coupling between the engine output shaft and the transmission. Imagine two fans facing each other. The engine side is the "plugged in fan" and the transmission side is the "coasting fan". In the torque converter there is either fluid or lock-up connection between the "fans". Fluid is like 'air' and there is multiplication of torque depending upon how many fins (blades on fan) each part of the converter has. The size and overall design of the torque converter will determine how much horsepower gets to the wheels and how the vehicle accelerates. I won't go into calculating the 'stall speed' of how the engine RPMs effect launch, but it's easy to find sites that explain it... In 'lock-up' imagine a pole linking the powered fan to the coasting fan -- speeds are the same, resulting in lossless power transfer for better economy/reducing temp. Virtually ALL modern vehicles employ lock-up torque converters, whether Fords, Honda, GM etc. While the exact road MPH at which lock-up occurs can be programmed into the ECM, that is the ONLY variable under computer control. The number and pitch of the steel fins( which do not wear, as they only contact fluid...) inside the torque is not alterable unless the converter is replaced.
Many of the terms used to describe the various operations of the driveline components do sound very similar. I suggest you more closely research these subjects.
I'm sure a lot of you will say that the Odyssey takes care of that market but not for me.
1. I want a three-seating capacity on the 2nd row and keep the third row folded most of the time. Will use the third row on occasions like if my mother-in-law is in town. The Ody only has two seating capacity on the 2nd row.
2. I hate the look of a minivan but need the "minivan" capacity of a vehicle.
3. I don't need 4WD or AWD with its accompanying extra weight and added fuel consumption. I currently drive a 4x4 and I only used it after hunting for unplowed roads which is a rarity here.
I'm sure many people also wants a 2WD version simply bacause they cannot stand the look of a minivan.
Hi, this is my first post and I'm a newbie to all of this.
I put a deposit down on an EX with cloth. The dealer wrote down his price and then gave me a VIN number and said the build date was May 30 so it should arrive within 3 weeks. At the end of 3 weeks he said they had not shipped it yet and they were still waiting for it to be shipped and they didn't have a clue where it is. The second thing is that I cross checked the VIN number with CARFAX and it turns out that they gave me a VIN of an EX with leather.
Now, I would think a dealership would know where they're inventory is and when it is going to arrive. Is that correct?
And if they gave me a VIN for a leather EX was that an accident or are they giving me the run around?
I would really appreciate some advice because this is starting to smell fishy and I'm new to this car buying game.
I sat in a Trailblazer EXT on the weekend at the mall. For those looking for 3 row seating, this has to be the best midsize SUV for space. Nice looking truck and available with 2WD or AWD.
Bamacar - Paisan is correct. The Pilot (and MDX) is FWD dominant. The rears kick in when slippage is anticated, detected, or if the system is locked (at low speeds).
1st Gen "Auto-4wd": Systems found on Ford/GM/etc that basically will automatically kick in the front axle @ 50/50 torque split if there is slippage. This was the first generation of auto-4wd
2nd gen "auto-4d": Systems found on ford/gm/etc that now can vary that torque after slippage rather than just do 50/50. This system still runs at 0/100 or 100/0 during non slip conditions.
"intelligent" auto-4wd: Systems like the Pilot/MDX that put some power to the non-powered axle during acceleration, but then revert to a 0/100 or 100/0 scenario
Awd: Systems such as the TLC/Subaru/Isuzu TOD/MB that puts some power to both axles before slippage, and can vary it from there.
Before I test out the alarm with the 15 sec. set in, can anyone tell me how to shut down the alarm if it goes off ? Which button within the remote to press to shut it off ? I do not want to drive all the way to the dealer with the alarm going off. I know I look stupid, but don't want to sound stupid all the way to dealer : )
There is a new version of Envoy that is very flexible with the tailgate window.
When the alarm goes off, you can shut it off by pressing the unlock button on the remote. In fact, I think pressing any button (other than the panic button) will work.
Here's what I think based on my experience at the dealership I work for.
We know the build dates and estimated delivery dates for our inventory ahead of time. However, when a build date is, for example, 6/19-6/22, the delivery date is soon after. If your pilot was built over a month ago and still has not arrived, then I doubt that one was ever really "your" Pilot to begin with. Your story is compounded by the incorrect VIN. I suspect that they took your deposit to take you out of the market, gave you a VIN they knew for a Pilot, maybe thought they could dealer trade in about 3 weeks, but never really had a Silver EX coming from the factory, and now are trying to stall while they find your future car. Dealer trades on Pilots and Odysseys and the like sometimes fall apart through no fault of either dealer. I wouldn't call this fishy, but it is unfortunate. I wish I could get all my hard to finds on the date they are estimated, but sometimes it doesn't happen, especially when someone is inflexible as to color. What I think will arrive in 4 days ends up taking 2 weeks to locate. This situation is frustrating for the buyer, the salesperson, and the dealership. Hang in there, check up with your salesman and tell him what you know about the VIN in a friendly, calm manner, and do not accuse him of any monkey business. If you are confrontational or accusatory with him, you will alienate the person who is working hardest to get you into your Pilot, and then you may never get it. When my Pilot customers become rude with me, the dealership's response is to let the customer know that there are plenty of people willing to be courteous and respectful during the location and purchase of a high demand item.
Anyway, that's what I have to say about that. Hope I helped.
What if I mentioned that the price they offered me originally was $28620 for a Pilot EX in cloth. Which comes to about $1000 under MSRP. I have it in writing and they still have my deposit. Which means I'm still on their active list. Does that change the dynamics any now?
I had my first look at one of these today. No LX in Canada, just EX and EX-L. The only difference is that the EX-L has leather.
Externally, plain looking vs my current 2000 PF-SE and my considerations for when my lease runs out in September - PF LE and QX-4.
Internally, plain but more practical with more cubby storage, great console due to column shifter although I prefer a console shifter. 5 cu ft more cargo space.
I don't care about 3rd row seating. Seating comfort is good. Sound system isn't great. Lots of tie downs. Under-floor storage for tonneau cover or third row head rests is better than PF/QX.
The back seat "arm rest" adds two drink holders to the two in the doors - unncessary and makes the arm rest useless as an armrest since it's unpadded, too low and really own meant as an "activity table".
Tonneau cover is extra for $315, 6-CD Changer (Trunk unit) for $800, running boards for $950, $145 for the block heater, $385 roof rack crossbars, fog lights for $665 and no mooroof. All included in the PF/QX. All Canadian $. Better towing capacity with the PF/QX and without an extra $950 towing package.
By the time you add all this, I can get a proven QX-4 with much more design character.
And Honda want $200 for a wood grain shifter and $800 for a wood grain steering wheel. Ouch!
Just to add to what you said, I think for us Canadians, the Pilot only makes sense $-wise when you consider a fairly basic one, ie. the EX with little or no dealer-installed options. If you spring for the EX-L and then add on some of the goodies that you listed, then you would be closing in on QX4, RX300 territory. But perhaps more importantly, you will almost be in MDX price range.
Actually a normal hanger fits nicely on the grab bar. However, I miss the little hook to hold a suit jacket. I noticed that the grab bar appears to have two pre-drilled holes on the underside... are we missing something here?
When did you place your deposit? I know it was before May 30, but don't know a specific date.
If you played a bunch of dealerships against each other to get to that price, well, good luck. That kind of thing is fine with Accords and Civics, but this is another case. Are Pilots in your area normally selling for under MSRP? 1K under MSRP is VERY unusual for any car that has a monthlong plus wait list. For example, I've had customers that waited for Pilots knowing we are selling them at MSRP, and once it comes in, they try to get a discount. As soon as I get to the desk with that news, the manager calls the next person on the list for that vehicle and tells them it is about to be available. Nothing I can do about it.
I don't know what to tell you. Ask your salesperson to tell you what's going on. Remember, he wants the car to come in as quickly as you do, and he wants YOU to buy the car from HIM.
Be calm, nice, don't be rude...it was probably just a good faith jesture when they out and out lied to you and hung you out to dry. I like how car salesmen try to justify their industry's actions. If I did my job like that, I wouldn't have it.
What is that whole response, if the dealer screws you over, don't get upset, because then they will make it even harder for you to get a pilot. Blah...Blah...Blah...get your deposit back and take your business elsewhere.
For those of you with the hood deflector and that awful wind noise, I found a way to virtually eliminate the noise, but not without potential problems. When my deflector was installed, there is a small air gap between the botton of the deflector and the hood. This is readily apparent when you open the hood. I temporarily sealed the gap by using black tape along the bottom side of the deflectors rubber gasket and the underside of the hood. Now.....most wind noise is gone. The problem is water drainage. Any water would now collect under the deflector. Perhaps a few drainage holes in the tape would suffice.
Can anyone else with the hood deflector confirm the air noise/air gap in their installation.
Honda USA won't honor the warranty if you manage to get one from Canada ("easy" enough to import if you follow some rather detailed steps, but you may have trouble finding a dealer to sell you one).
Check our our Gray Market Cars article. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have to say, I am sorry that I gave out wrong information about the alarm. Based on 2 dealers confirmation and 2 salesman and 1 salesmanger that tried to activate the alarm and no sign of flashing and horn. And double checked with the car insurance, they said based on the specification from Honda that ONLY the immoblizer in the Pilot, not alarm, they will lower the primium. So I truly believe there is no alarm. But when I tried at home, open the window, shut the door, waited for 15 seconds, then pull put the door lock, it flashed and horned. So the Canadian Pilot is equipted with Honda alarm. Lucky I asked how to shut it down before I try.
When I get delivery, the dealer get me to sign a wavier that I will not ship the car to USA. Thay say just to protect the deal. As I understand from MB that heavy penality will impose on dealer from manufacturer if they found out. Plus Steve mentioned that Honda USA will not honor the warranty. So does a lot of other car maker try to close this gap now, GM is the latest example.
couimet - it will not make $ sense, as bodydouble pointed out, to load all these things and not look at MDX. But for me, the car price is fixed at full price, and I negociate the options that I want, at dealer cost without installation cost. I have all weather mat, and mud guard, salesman claims free to me. Tonneau cover and backup snesor, I think they charged $400 to $500. BUT I'm sure somewhere they put in some other charges. I just put an eye on my trade-in then the total cost including tax. It ends up $53,250 total. Including my trade-in, tax and all Honda fees.
Again SORRY for the false alarm of the Pilot's alarm, it comes with alarm (:0
Thanks for checking into the alarm. It wasn't your fault. The mis-information was from Honda Canada and the dealers.
But it makes me wonder about all the dealers that are telling their customers that they can sell them an aftermarket alarm. I wonder just what they are selling them??
I put the deposit down on June 6. The Floor Sales manager wrote the order up and initialed it. Everytime I go back they always say that the price is still good. I'm in an area where the Pilot is now going for MSRP + $1500 to $2500. However, I was one of the first to put a deposit down. By the way I did go shopping around to the other 2 dealerships in my area and several in another state. I got the best out of the bunch and gave him my offer. The Floor Manager agreed to beat it and give me the above mentioned price. The reason he said he would beat it was because I originally came to them for the first look at the Pilot and then came to them afterwards with the best of the rest. In other words he was happy to see me again.
Now I know your dealership is probably a good one to work for. And I do like to give everyone the benefit of a doubt. BUT, are there not dealerships that will "take you out of circulation" hoping that you wait for your Pilot to come in while they may sell yours to someone else who will pay more? Also what's the incentive to keep me waiting anyways? My thinking is that I'll change my mind and decide to pick several different colors to just get the Pilot.
Thanks for you thoughts, I've learn one thing from everyone and that's to not get impatient and become rude.
Of course there are people who will take you out of circulation and make you wait. I said that in my first response. And as I have written before, it may be a mistake, an unanticipated delay, or they could have lied to you. There is no way for me to know. Obviously, you are uncomfortable with this dealership, otherwise you wouldn't have posted for advise. Maybe it is time to go somewhere else and begin the waiting game all over again.
For everyone else -- I know there are a lot of you out there who despise the car industry, like to bash it, love to complain, and brag about how tough a negotiator you are. Fine. I happen to sell cars now, so I have seen the business from both sides. I tried to give someone a way to go about their situation using my perspective. That's all. If my status as a car saleswoman ticks some of you off , fine with me. I thought I was trying to be helpful.
You have been helpful. Just the fact that you've volunteered your opinion on this board indicates to me you're one of the good ones. And we are appreciative of that. But you have admit though, the car-selling business attracts more than its share of slimeballs.
You have a point. Those outfits you mentioned do attract their share of sleazebuckets. But car dealers attract MORE THAN their share. hehehe, I improvised that on the fly.
Is there anyway the Pilot topics can be consolidated, or taken out of the SUV forum? They are really cluttering up the Forum and I for one would like to see the Honda people in their own "little discussion world".
I just saw I think the 100th Pilot topic placed on the board, it's a little redundant don't you think?
Picked up my Pilot last Saturday - and I have to say that the entire experience was great. About two months ago, after being frustrated by a number of dealer's antics (DIOs, etc), I found one who would sell me what I wanted for a fair price (MSRP). I gave him a deposit and did not ask for anything in writing. Two months later, after many calls and updates, my Pilot arrived and he called me in. The transaction took place with no surprises and now I am a happy Pilot owner.
Alinda, I've seen you on the Inconsiderate Buyers board, which I like to browse just so I keep some perspective. It seems that for every sham dealer out there, there is a whacko customer who will go overboard in their attempt to find the lowest price. Buying a vehicle is a two way street and it just depends on your perspective. It is an extremely emotional decision for a buyer and for the sales person, it is their livelihood. So I certainly understand your point of view.
So what is my point? I guess it is that there are some good dealers out there. They do see that if they treat their customers with respect now, they will more than likely see them again. This equation will NOT work with everyone. Some buyers treat vehicles as commodities and in doing so, will only look at the lowest possible out-of-pocket price. However, I believe that many of the people who follow this board are also interested in value - and they know the value of a good dealer.
No, like I mentioned above, I'll give them a benefit of the doubt because the second VIN is supposed to come in about 2 weeks. And I'll probably mention the first VIN to them calmly of course. Again thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.
I count 6 "Pilot" discussions on Town Hall and another 7 comparison discussions that include the Pilot. The hosts have probably archived or deleted an equal number.
Honda people just like to talk about cars I guess - there's about 15 active Odyssey topics and probably 100 in the archives over in Vans.
We'll get a Pilot Owner's Club going soon, and that'll take some of the traffic away from SUVs. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
You don't say where you are shopping for pilot but even in SoCal area, MSRP is available. You just have to find them and be patient. I bought mine for MSRP w/o DIO. I found several dealers that were willing to sell it at MSRP.
You guys know about the Message Center and subscribing to your favorite discussions don't you? Those tools help you "cut to the chase" when you don't want to browse the topic list. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have posted this question on the MDX board and know that MDX owners also read and respond to this board.
I took delivery of my MDX today, and there is a annoying clicking noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard in front of the driver. Has any MDX or Pilot owners experienced this, or does anyone know what is causing it? Thanks.
Comments
Is there any sign that a bit of PS fluid may have spilled on the belt?
Similarly, the addition of the 'transmission cooler' involves NO CHANGE to the transmission, the torque converter, nor ECM.
As long as the technicians PROPERLY installed the fittings, checked the power steering & transmissions fluid levels and left everything as it should be there should be NO NOTICEABLE CHANGES!
I would strongly recommend checking the fluid levels ASAP to verify that they are OK.
If they are OK I would suggest that there is NO CHANGE,just that you are paying more attention to the various sounds/motions the Pilot is generating...
BTW I believe the comparison being made between Isuzu transmissions is really a measure of how the automatic transmission has been designed to engage/disengage gears during upshifts/downshifts. Basically the transmission fluid moves the valve body to shift gears. This 'fluid programming' is determined by the valves/check balls in the transmission valve body. It is essentially UNALTERABLE without removing the valve body and drilling/modifying the valving.
It is true that 'harsher' shifts tend to to result in lower transmission operating temperatures. It is very possible to design seals that can withstand many hundreds of thousands of mile of high temps and still shift very very smoothly. Generally, a smoothly shifting transmission can last as long as one that abruptly shifts. An abruptly shifting transmission can adversely affect the life of all driveline components.
The torque converter is a different beast altogether. It acts as a coupling between the engine output shaft and the transmission. Imagine two fans facing each other. The engine side is the "plugged in fan" and the transmission side is the "coasting fan". In the torque converter there is either fluid or lock-up connection between the "fans". Fluid is like 'air' and there is multiplication of torque depending upon how many fins (blades on fan) each part of the converter has. The size and overall design of the torque converter will determine how much horsepower gets to the wheels and how the vehicle accelerates. I won't go into calculating the 'stall speed' of how the engine RPMs effect launch, but it's easy to find sites that explain it... In 'lock-up' imagine a pole linking the powered fan to the coasting fan -- speeds are the same, resulting in lossless power transfer for better economy/reducing temp. Virtually ALL modern vehicles employ lock-up torque converters, whether Fords, Honda, GM etc. While the exact road MPH at which lock-up occurs can be programmed into the ECM, that is the ONLY variable under computer control. The number and pitch of the steel fins( which do not wear, as they only contact fluid...) inside the torque is not alterable unless the converter is replaced.
Many of the terms used to describe the various operations of the driveline components do sound very similar. I suggest you more closely research these subjects.
1. I want a three-seating capacity on the 2nd row and keep the third row folded most of the time. Will use the third row on occasions like if my mother-in-law is in town. The Ody only has two seating capacity on the 2nd row.
2. I hate the look of a minivan but need the "minivan" capacity of a vehicle.
3. I don't need 4WD or AWD with its accompanying extra weight and added fuel consumption. I currently drive a 4x4 and I only used it after hunting for unplowed roads which is a rarity here.
I'm sure many people also wants a 2WD version simply bacause they cannot stand the look of a minivan.
I put a deposit down on an EX with cloth. The dealer wrote down his price and then gave me a VIN number and said the build date was May 30 so it should arrive within 3 weeks. At the end of 3 weeks he said they had not shipped it yet and they were still waiting for it to be shipped and they didn't have a clue where it is. The second thing is that I cross checked the VIN number with CARFAX and it turns out that they gave me a VIN of an EX with leather.
Now, I would think a dealership would know where they're inventory is and when it is going to arrive. Is that correct?
And if they gave me a VIN for a leather EX was that an accident or are they giving me the run around?
I would really appreciate some advice because this is starting to smell fishy and I'm new to this car buying game.
Thank you in advance
-mike
-mike
2nd gen "auto-4d": Systems found on ford/gm/etc that now can vary that torque after slippage rather than just do 50/50. This system still runs at 0/100 or 100/0 during non slip conditions.
"intelligent" auto-4wd: Systems like the Pilot/MDX that put some power to the non-powered axle during acceleration, but then revert to a 0/100 or 100/0 scenario
Awd: Systems such as the TLC/Subaru/Isuzu TOD/MB that puts some power to both axles before slippage, and can vary it from there.
-mike
If I was in the market for that size vehicle, there are several I would pick ahead of the Trailblazer EXT. The Chevy Tahoe, for one.
Bob
Which button within the remote to press to shut it off ?
I do not want to drive all the way to the dealer with the alarm going off.
I know I look stupid, but don't want to sound stupid all the way to dealer : )
There is a new version of Envoy that is very flexible with the tailgate window.
You're right, the wheels are different. Between the 2 tone and the wheels, I do think it looks better than production.
Thanks
;^)
We know the build dates and estimated delivery dates for our inventory ahead of time. However, when a build date is, for example, 6/19-6/22, the delivery date is soon after. If your pilot was built over a month ago and still has not arrived, then I doubt that one was ever really "your" Pilot to begin with. Your story is compounded by the incorrect VIN. I suspect that they took your deposit to take you out of the market, gave you a VIN they knew for a Pilot, maybe thought they could dealer trade in about 3 weeks, but never really had a Silver EX coming from the factory, and now are trying to stall while they find your future car. Dealer trades on Pilots and Odysseys and the like sometimes fall apart through no fault of either dealer. I wouldn't call this fishy, but it is unfortunate. I wish I could get all my hard to finds on the date they are estimated, but sometimes it doesn't happen, especially when someone is inflexible as to color. What I think will arrive in 4 days ends up taking 2 weeks to locate. This situation is frustrating for the buyer, the salesperson, and the dealership. Hang in there, check up with your salesman and tell him what you know about the VIN in a friendly, calm manner, and do not accuse him of any monkey business. If you are confrontational or accusatory with him, you will alienate the person who is working hardest to get you into your Pilot, and then you may never get it. When my Pilot customers become rude with me, the dealership's response is to let the customer know that there are plenty of people willing to be courteous and respectful during the location and purchase of a high demand item.
Anyway, that's what I have to say about that. Hope I helped.
Externally, plain looking vs my current 2000 PF-SE and my considerations for when my lease runs out in September - PF LE and QX-4.
Internally, plain but more practical with more cubby storage, great console due to column shifter although I prefer a console shifter. 5 cu ft more cargo space.
I don't care about 3rd row seating. Seating comfort is good. Sound system isn't great. Lots of tie downs. Under-floor storage for tonneau cover or third row head rests is better than PF/QX.
The back seat "arm rest" adds two drink holders to the two in the doors - unncessary and makes the arm rest useless as an armrest since it's unpadded, too low and really own meant as an "activity table".
Tonneau cover is extra for $315, 6-CD Changer (Trunk unit) for $800, running boards for $950, $145 for the block heater, $385 roof rack crossbars, fog lights for $665 and no mooroof. All included in the PF/QX. All Canadian $.
Better towing capacity with the PF/QX and without an extra $950 towing package.
By the time you add all this, I can get a proven QX-4 with much more design character.
And Honda want $200 for a wood grain shifter and $800 for a wood grain steering wheel. Ouch!
Alisha, your opinion?
If you played a bunch of dealerships against each other to get to that price, well, good luck. That kind of thing is fine with Accords and Civics, but this is another case. Are Pilots in your area normally selling for under MSRP? 1K under MSRP is VERY unusual for any car that has a monthlong plus wait list. For example, I've had customers that waited for Pilots knowing we are selling them at MSRP, and once it comes in, they try to get a discount. As soon as I get to the desk with that news, the manager calls the next person on the list for that vehicle and tells them it is about to be available. Nothing I can do about it.
I don't know what to tell you. Ask your salesperson to tell you what's going on. Remember, he wants the car to come in as quickly as you do, and he wants YOU to buy the car from HIM.
What is that whole response, if the dealer screws you over, don't get upset, because then they will make it even harder for you to get a pilot. Blah...Blah...Blah...get your deposit back and take your business elsewhere.
Can anyone else with the hood deflector confirm the air noise/air gap in their installation.
Can you buy a canadian pilot and drop ship it here? in the US?
Check our our Gray Market Cars article.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Based on 2 dealers confirmation and 2 salesman and 1 salesmanger that tried to activate the alarm and no sign of flashing and horn.
And double checked with the car insurance, they said based on the specification from Honda that ONLY the immoblizer in the Pilot, not alarm, they will lower the primium.
So I truly believe there is no alarm.
But when I tried at home, open the window, shut the door, waited for 15 seconds, then pull put the door lock, it flashed and horned.
So the Canadian Pilot is equipted with Honda alarm. Lucky I asked how to shut it down before I try.
When I get delivery, the dealer get me to sign a wavier that I will not ship the car to USA. Thay say just to protect the deal. As I understand from MB that heavy penality will impose on dealer from manufacturer if they found out.
Plus Steve mentioned that Honda USA will not honor the warranty. So does a lot of other car maker try to close this gap now, GM is the latest example.
couimet - it will not make $ sense, as bodydouble pointed out, to load all these things and not look at MDX. But for me, the car price is fixed at full price, and I negociate the options that I want, at dealer cost without installation cost.
I have all weather mat, and mud guard, salesman claims free to me. Tonneau cover and backup snesor, I think they charged $400 to $500. BUT I'm sure somewhere they put in some other charges.
I just put an eye on my trade-in then the total cost including tax. It ends up $53,250 total. Including my trade-in, tax and all Honda fees.
Again SORRY for the false alarm of the Pilot's alarm, it comes with alarm (:0
But it makes me wonder about all the dealers that are telling their customers that they can sell them an aftermarket alarm. I wonder just what they are selling them??
Now I know your dealership is probably a good one to work for. And I do like to give everyone the benefit of a doubt. BUT, are there not dealerships that will "take you out of circulation" hoping that you wait for your Pilot to come in while they may sell yours to someone else who will pay more? Also what's the incentive to keep me waiting anyways? My thinking is that I'll change my mind and decide to pick several different colors to just get the Pilot.
Thanks for you thoughts, I've learn one thing from everyone and that's to not get impatient and become rude.
For everyone else -- I know there are a lot of you out there who despise the car industry, like to bash it, love to complain, and brag about how tough a negotiator you are. Fine. I happen to sell cars now, so I have seen the business from both sides. I tried to give someone a way to go about their situation using my perspective. That's all. If my status as a car saleswoman ticks some of you off , fine with me. I thought I was trying to be helpful.
I just saw I think the 100th Pilot topic placed on the board, it's a little redundant don't you think?
Alinda, I've seen you on the Inconsiderate Buyers board, which I like to browse just so I keep some perspective. It seems that for every sham dealer out there, there is a whacko customer who will go overboard in their attempt to find the lowest price. Buying a vehicle is a two way street and it just depends on your perspective. It is an extremely emotional decision for a buyer and for the sales person, it is their livelihood. So I certainly understand your point of view.
So what is my point? I guess it is that there are some good dealers out there. They do see that if they treat their customers with respect now, they will more than likely see them again. This equation will NOT work with everyone. Some buyers treat vehicles as commodities and in doing so, will only look at the lowest possible out-of-pocket price. However, I believe that many of the people who follow this board are also interested in value - and they know the value of a good dealer.
Oh, and...I got my Pilot - Yeah.
Honda people just like to talk about cars I guess - there's about 15 active Odyssey topics and probably 100 in the archives over in Vans.
We'll get a Pilot Owner's Club going soon, and that'll take some of the traffic away from SUVs.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks Steve.
I bought mine for MSRP w/o DIO. I found several dealers that were willing to sell it at MSRP.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I took delivery of my MDX today, and there is a annoying clicking noise that appears to be coming from the dashboard in front of the driver. Has any MDX or Pilot owners experienced this, or does anyone know what is causing it?
Thanks.