Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

edh

My fairly new Hl has a few scrathes together in one side of the flexible bumper. . Went by a paint place they will only paint the whole bumper cover ( for $300).

i would like to repair the scratches - they are not big and are NOT thru the cover, only gouged the paint. i can get touch up paint from paintscratch.

what is the best filler/putty that is approved for a plastic bumper/
I called the paint part store and they had 3m panel adhesive at $38 part 08115 - do not know how much that is - I need only about twice the anount of toothpaste you would use to brush your teeth once.

anyone done this?

napa and advance do not carry a flexible body filler - even tho sem, evercoat,and 3m make it.
and lots of damaged bumpers in the parking lot

Mr_Shiftright

Have you called any of those "pop a dent" guys who visit local dealerships? They might do the bumper for less. Sometimes they can air brush it in and it looks pretty good.

Maybe your local dealer or used car dealer would give you a name.

Touch up by brush is okay but it's really better for small single chips than for long scratches.

benderofbows

Hi,

 

I have a 2004 Ford Explorer XLS with the dark, plastic-feeling front and rear bumpers. I am thinking about having them painted to match the rest of the vehicle (I'll ask for Ford paint). What is a reasonable price range to have this done? Should I have this done in the body shop at my dealer or take it somewhere which is likely to be cheaper? I'd like it to be unnoticeable (to match the rest of the paint well), is this likely?

Mr_Shiftright

Ah, well, maybe $300 a bumper something like that. It will match the paint but not really for long as it isn't metal and the surfaces just aren't going to reflect light in the same way. It will look a little duller in a while I think...but I'm only going by what I've seen over the years.

 

If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can recommend a shop or two if you e-mail me.

Sylvia

A reporter would like to talk with anyone fitting the following profile...."I'd love to find some folks who've modified their own rides. I'm particularly interested in people who've done this for the first time and were driven to do it, at least in part, from watching a tv show like Pimp My Ride, Overhaulin' or something similar. I'm looking for average drivers who are just discovering that they can personalize their rides. I'm not as interested in the traditional tuner crowd who've been doing this for years."

 

If you have a story to share, please send your name, daytime contact info and a line or two about your vehicle to jfallon@edmunds.com by Wednesday, December 29, 2004.

asafonov

Greetings.

 

I have a 3-year old compact (Chevy Prizm) that, between the first owner and me, has accumulated a number of "imperfections". 3 small door dings. A fingernail paint chip. The worst (my bad), a 2-inch rear bumper scuff I generated in my own driveway.

 

I will be selling this car privately in a few months - need a minivan. I am wondering if I should: (1) take the car to a reputable body shop (2) DIY the blemishes - how? (3) do nothing.

 

Advice appreciated. The Prizm is dark red. I have no idea how much a shop would charge. If the selling price makes a difference, I think I would be very lucky to get over 6k for it, probably closer to 5 (it is a manual to boot.)

jwilson1

If it were mine, I'd be inclined to let it be, unless you had good skills and experience, which you hint that you don't. Anyone buying a $6000 car, or less, isn't going to be looking for a 'collectible' paint job. The cost of a professional repair wouldn't be cost effective and a poorly done amateur job quite probably would make it look worse.

 

Good luck.

JW

saxy

I see numerous car wash products such as Blue Crystal contain carnuba wax in the product. Will these kinds of washes hurt rubberized body cladding or other rubber or plastic components on the body. Does it suffice to use something like armor-all to maintain such surfaces after washing either with regular washes or those that contain carnuba??

briannamom

Hi all. I have a white 2003 Civic EX. This morning I noticed two scratches on my car. One is about three inches long above the driver's door handle. It looks more like city dirt than a scratch and when I first saw it I tried to rub it off. LOL! The other one is about 2" long and is on the driver's rear panel near the trunk lid. Both scratches show a light gray.

 

Neither scratch appears really deep and I don't feel a ridge when I run my fingernails gently over them.

 

I have no idea how I got these scratches. I use my remote entry almost every time. I park in two large lots at work. I also accidently brushed up against my car with my briefcase but the flaps/hinges/buckles are plastic.

 

Advice?

jwilson1

Is it possible that these are stubborn marks on top of the paint rather than scratches? Usually, if you can see the primer underneath the clear and the paint (you said you see something light gray), then you can feel the edges of the scratch with the soft part of your fingertip or the edge of a fingernail.

 

If there's a chance it's on top -- I often get road paint from new lines being put down splashed up on my cars -- get some "clay" from an autoparts store or WalMart, with some lubricant (usually with the clay in the kit) and that should take it right off. It should cost you under $20.

 

Hope this helps. JW

briannamom

JW,

 

After I posted last night, I went back out to my car. I wiped the scratch areas with a damp cloth and applied some Maguire's clear coat wax. I let the wax dry and then buffed it. Most of the scratches are gone--either it was some kind of mark or the wax filled the scratch.

 

I'll pick up a clay kit and when it's warmer I'll work on it some more. Thanks for your help!

bicycle don

I am looking at buying a 97 Ford Explorer on which what used to be black plastic trim between the windows has faded. This ie especially visable on the two large 'posts' on either side of the rear hatch. Does anyone know of something that, if I bought the car, that I could use to refurbish that trim?

 

Thanks for anyones help

cmks02

Took delivery of a brand new '05 Lexus ES 330 on Saturday. During the delivery inspection I noticed a paint defect on the driver side C pillar. Color is black garnet pearl. Dealer now has the car and is going to wet sand to fix the defect. If that doesn't work, the C pillar area may have to be repainted.

 

Question 1 - Does wet sanding degrade the finish quality and durability assuming a 4 year lease. Will the wet sand area be more likely to be noticeable 3-4 years from now.

 

Question 2 - What about repainting the area. Can they do an exact match (this is a brand new car) and will the repainted area look just like the rest of the car 3-4 years from now.

 

Question 3 - If this was your new Lexus, would you agree to a wet sanding or a repaint of the affected area, or ask for a new car with no on delivery defects.

 

Please advise.

bigfur

Alot of cars are wet sanded at the dealer before the customers ever see them. All it really does is smooth out the clear coat then gets buffed out to look like glass again. I wouldnt worry about it. As far as paint match, its a brand new car and should match up very easily. If you ask for a new car you also have to ask how long will it take to get one with the exact options and paint you want.

Mr_Shiftright

You can use what they call "Trim Paint". Of course, the quality of the result will depend on how carefully you clean, prep and tape off the area you are working on. But Trim Paint gives a nice satin finish. You could even use a clear coat over that for a more durable finish. It's a bit of work, but I've done similar things with excellent results.

 

if you are not the careful and tidy, patient type, you might think twice. The trick is taking your time and following directions.

 

The paint MUST be warm enough and well-shaken. You should apply the spray in thin layers, waiting a bit between coats (see can). And don't spray on too much or get too close, or you'll drip and have to wipe it off and start all over again.

cmks02

Well...I received the verdict from the Lexus dealer today. The left rear quarter panel and C pillar have to be repainted. They tried wet sanding but that didn't correct the paint defect. Since the paint defect was a major issue when I was doing my delivery inspection, the dealer said whatever happens after the car is "made right" and I have an opportunity to inspect, he wants me to be a satisfied customer. My starting point in the negotiations is a new car. They have one in stock and will hold it for me until the repaint job is done later this week. Then they will give me an opportunity to inspect the job, and decide from that point how to resolve the issue. I'm fairly confident the paint job will be professionally done, but I have this emotional thing about a brand new car being repainted and me knowing it has been repainted. At the same time, I am willing to accept a reasonable compromise, assuming the dealer would warrant the paint job for the 48 month lease term. Would it be reasonable, assuming the paint job turns out OK, to ask for all 5K mile routine service at no charge ("we owe") for the 48 month lease period, rather than going to the extreme of demanding a new car. What is the dealer cost to perform these services, mindful that the car is a Lexus ES330, and based on what I have learned so far, routine service isn't cheap. Also, what is involved on the dealers side in taking back a car (unwinding the deal) and giving me a new car.

cheerful

I have a sticker on the bumper for several month. When I removed it, some glue stuck to the bumper.

  

Ethyl alcohol does not work. Nail polish remover (Acetone) sure works but I am concerned it may damage the paint.

  

What is the proper way to remove it?

  

Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright

You have to be careful here. You will get many good suggestions but remember that what worked on one car may not work on another.

 

You have two challenges here:

 

You don't want to use anything that dissolves paint, and you don't want to use anything too abrasive as a scraper.

 

So you might test a hidden part of the bumper with any solvent you are thinking of using. Some recommendations include WD-40 of all things, or "Goof-Off". But I can testify that if you use Goof Off and you rub hard enough and long enough, it will WILL attack paint. If used lightly and quickly you are probably okay....proceed at your own risk.

 

Another suggestion is using a hair dryer set on "low" and some hot soapy water. This seems safer at first.

 

If the bumper is BLACK and not painted, I'd use a hair dryer and a soapy brillo pad.

 

good luck and take your time,

 

Host

alternator

Somewhere I read that Skin-So-Soft would remove residual adhesive from plastic bumpers. Sounded weird, but it worked for me.

alcan

This works:

 

http://www.digitalriver.com/dr/v2/ec_MAIN.Entry10?V1=650046&P- - N=1&SP=10023&xid=28181&CID=0&DSP=&CUR=840&amp- ;amp- ;PGRP=0&CACHE_ID=0

bigfur

Try a little red can of 3M general purpose adhesive remover. Should be at most auto parts store if you ask for it.

ronsteve

Looking for some feedback on the best way to deal with damage in an awkward place. I was opening my door in A LOT of wind last night, and the wind got a hold of the door and it very quickly swung open and hit the car next to me. I think my door lost the battle with the other guy's molding, as part of the back edge of my door is bent in, and there's about a 4-inch long crack in the paint, not quite an inch from the edge of the door.

What's the best combination of low cost and low risk (of an obvious mismatch, or future rust) to deal with this? Car is a 2002 Accord coupe, if that makes different options more or less feasible.

BTW, yes, I have now learned the hard way that it's best to park nose into the wind if possible.

Mr_Shiftright

I think that's work for a body shop or just live with it. It's not the type of dent that is easily corrected at home. The shop will have to paint the whole panel up to a molding or door edge. The paint either needs to "wrap" around an edge or go under a molding, otherwise it will chip out.

insight

That 3M cleaner has xylene and ethylbenzene. Not good for your nervous system, gastrointestinal tract, or lungs if inhaled. Not good for eyes or skin if you make contact. It's nasty stuff and you might want to try something else first. If you do use it, get the smallest can available, use it outdoors, and don't breathe it.

insight

P.S. Vinegar (the cheap, clear stuff) worked for me on one bumper sticker, and didn't on another, so it's worth a shot.
Plus you can inhale it (or even drink it if you like) safely.

bigfur

Every body shop i ever worked in had a few cans of it laying around just for that purpose. I used it for years with out any problems. Long as you use it in an open area its ok.

rt24

I have paint flaking off the front bumper of my 2000 Grand Marquis. The rest of the car is in great shape. Can this rubber bumper stuff be sanded and repainted? Is there an easier fix?
Thanks,
rt24

cornellpinoy

Is this the original paint flaking off or was the bumper repainted before?

The bumper can be repainted for sure - the body shop has to add a flex additive to the paint so that the paint has some elasticity to "flex" with the rubber in cases when the bumper is pushed in.

If the bumper has been repainted in the past, it should go back to the shop that did the work since it sounds like they didn't add enough flex additive.

Mr_Shiftright

Yep, he's right, it can be repainted but it's a bit tricky and should be done professionally. Generally bumper paint on flexible bumpers doesn't quite last as long as body paint, especially with repaints, so I'm not surprised you are having this problem. Many used car lots spend a good deal of time repainting bumpers of this type.

igiban

I've no idea how a dent got on the C pillar next to windshield, but does anyone ever fix dents on a pillar? Would the PDR even work in such area where access from the back seems impossible?

Mr_Shiftright

Doubtful but worth a shot. The C pillar metal is pretty "tight" and I kinda doubt it will give enough for PDR. PDR works best when metal is boingy-boingy. A sharp dent in a small panel is usually the stuff for body shops.

You probably got nailed by the rear door of a big SUV.

igiban

This pilliar is wider than a normal one for it's about 4" wide, but may still be too thin and like you said, it tight so I don't know if they can stick their tool from behind.

Well the door would have to hit my mirror first but it did not unless it's a very curvy rear door that's parked reverse to mine. I got my shares of dings and dents, but never on C pillar. Weird stuff. How would body shop fix it? I don't think they want to take the pillar off...

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe they could pull it from the outside. A good shop can do miracles but I wouldn't take it to a shop with the word miracle in it necessarily.

Why would a mirror interfere with a C pillar? Are you sure it's not the A pillar you're talking about?

igiban

It's the one on the front so it'd be the A pillar I guess, Anyway my son admitted he bounced a tennis ball real hard off the wall and it hit the pillar.... Still surprised me that a tennis ball can dent the hard pillar. Maybe I should sign him up to a tennis camp.

Anyway dent pro kind of guys told me three options: 1. Take the side curtain airbag part off so they can access the metal directly from the back, but they need me to check with dealer if taking that part off is a no no. 2. Use some tool and glue to suck that dented part out and knock it smooth. This is the alternative I'd like to know if anyone's tried and would recommend it. Might not fix it 100% but I was told it'd look better. I was concerned about the paint and ok dent is gone, but then we get wrinkled surface. The last option is to drill a small hole from the side of pillar but I think that's too invasive, even tho it's not visible when door is shut. What do you think?

Mr_Shiftright

I definitely wouldn't let a dent guy screw with the air bag...uh-uh. So that leaves b) or c).

Pulling it out seems the easiest and least hassle--and really can't make it worse seems to me.

igiban

I hear you and I agree option 2 being the most sensible. My only concern is while dent can be made smaller or even nearly invisible, there's always some chance that the strong glue can pull some paint off at the same time. The dent pro guy I talked to has been doing this for quite a while and he said the paint on my car is quite strong and it's unlikely that piant will be damaged. It's just that I'd rather live with a dent under a good factory paint, rather than having a flat surface but with damaged paint... Wonder if anyone tried this pull-up way to fix a dent when the dent can't be accessed from behind.

rhmass

I need advice for smoothing out the paint after touch-up.
There is always a small bump over the line where I used the touch-up paint going over the scratch, no matter how careful I put it on. What should I use to smooth it out and cover the scratch line? I am afraid to use rubbing compound for fear of taking too much of the paint in the surrounding area of the touch-up. Will claying do it? TIA

alternator

You don't have to buy their products in order to download a very informative free book at :

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/freeguide.html

I believe that wet sanding with 1500 and 2000 grit sanding paper is the main element in leveling touch-ups.

rhmass

Thanks.

smiley10

I noticed that the black paint on my muffler is peeling badley. Would this be covered under the warranty. Car is 2003 SE altima and has 10,000 miles on it. Any way to fix this problem.

jaw70

I have a 1997 Pontiac Bonneville SSEi. The paint on the roof of the car has corroded away to the point where the forest green color has almost totally gone. I am getting concerned that the car is now in danger of having unprotected metal on the roof. This has obviously been occurring over the past few years to get to this state. I called Pontiac customer service to discuss that paint on a car should last longer than this and that Pontiac has the obligation to remedy the problem. They basically stone-walled me. I now have to go to the service center of a Pontiac dealership to have them ascertain if this is a defect or not. They will then determine what, if any, remedy there is for me. Based on a similar situation I had with Pontiac on the transmission of the same car breaking down less than two weeks after the initial guarantee expired and getting little relief from them (and actual abuse from the dealership service manager) my hopes are not high. Has anyone else experienced similar paint issues with Pontiac and how did you resolve them?

Mr_Shiftright

I don't think you have too much hope on a car that old, but certainly no harm in trying.

scasper

Someone hit my parked car and left a blue and white strip(some black marks here and their as well) of paint along almost the whole side of my maroon Saturn. I took it to a collision shop and they gave an estimate that said wetsand and rubb. Now I was able to pull a small strip of this blue paint right off and saw my shiny original color underneath. I've read some info on wetsanding and it makes me wonder if it will leave a flatt look to my car of possibly make it worse. It doesn't look like their are any scratches but that I just need to remove the jerks paint left on my car. Any suggestions? Should I try some kind of clay myself instead?

camrybabe

Can anyone suggest a way or a place in Northern/Central New Jersey help me wash or pressure wash the undercarriage of my car to remove the road salt that's accumulated in the winter. I initially thought I was paranoid, but even the Toyota Camry owners' manual suggests this!

Mr_Shiftright

Many car washes offer this as an option---an underside wash.

camrybabe

Thanks Mr_Shiftright. It never occured to me as I always wash my car by hand.

Mr_Shiftright

Yep, I think you'll find that service readily available, and it's probably a good idea although it may not stop every little bit of corrosion. Certainly worth doing now and then though

igiban

By how it feels (like if your finger nail can feel it) or by how it looks (see white line or black line or silver line)? How to repair it I was told is quite different depending on that.

zhou

I scratched the right side bumper of my jeep liberty. It's unpainted with kind of gray color. How do you fix it as you can't repaint it.

Thanks

paintsplat

Did you ever get any suggestions on how to get paint off of the car without actually taking the real paint off?
I have baby blue paint splattered down the side of my car because I apparently drove through it the other night. It is on the black finish and the plastic wheel flairs, and plastic running boards.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.