Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

Mr_Shiftright

You really want a better magnet than a refrigerator magnet, first of all and you will find the magnet strength or pull will vary depending on the contour of the metal. I prefer a very strong "pencil magnet" (telescoping or clip on) such as the type used to retrieve lost tools, sockets, etc. These give fewer false readings.

A little body filler is fine. If the magnet doesn't stick, well that could be trouble. Make sure of course that you aren't testing one of the many plastic or aluminum panels they use on cars nowadays :P

alternator

You can buy rubber-coated, flexible strips (about 1/2 inch wide) of magnet material that would cover larger areas, so as to make your inspection much easier. These are quite cheap at wholesale tool outlets.

corvette

Mr_Shiftright,

You mention that modern paint can't be blended. I was under the impression that it could, but it required a lot of talent and was very time-consuming. About a year ago, I had a tailgate repainted after a collision, and it appeared that the scratches on the inside of the tailgate (from hauling cargo) were still present after the outside was repainted. I could see some adhesive residue from the masking tape, but there was no corresponding "tape line" in the paint itself. How'd they do it?

Pax,

corvette

1racefan

about paint and body technicians. I understand that when repair shops look for mechanics, they typically look for ASE certifications when they are hiring. When it comes to paint and body guys, what do shops look for? Can anyone that has had training in paint in body (ie..apprenticeship or technical school) typically get hired as a paint and body guy, or is there a special certification that shops look for? I was just curious, because I have met many different "characters" over the years at body shops.

Mr_Shiftright

maybe they buffed it--if the outside edge where they stopped painting is not visible they can take more liberties. I was thinking more of attempting to blend a large flat visible panel. I think I said you CAN blend paint but it isn't a good idea. But who knows, maybe somebody can get away with it.

cornellpinoy

While it is their experience and skill level that really counts, a professional body shop tech will get different "I-CAR" certifications. Just like ASE, there are many ICAR certifications available. It all depends on what the person wants to specialize in. A shop that has techs that have completed ICAR training will have the certificates on display. Other certification would include specialty training offered by an automotive manufacturer, a paint company or equipment vendor.

cornellpinoy

Unless a new tailgate was installed, the painter would not need to paint the inside of the tailgate. Most likely whatever damage was on the outside of the tailgate was filled, sanded and re-finished. Most tailgates are as thick as door shells, and similarly there usually would be no need to paint the inside of door shell if the damage was only on the outer panel.

Blending adjacent panels is often done on most quality repairs. It is very, very rare to find a painter than can paint a panel with perfect color match to the surrounding panels.

Mr_Shiftright

Interesting..my experience has been quite the opposite. Body shops I talk to will not blend anything because they say they can get perfect color matching by computer now. I had a panel painted just recently, no blending, and it does seem perfect.

I think the problem is that with clearcoating, etc, it is very hard to blend paints anymore.

but I'll ask around again. Maybe I'm missing something. I'll check back. I know of some real master painters. They'd know what the scoop is on this.

fitzd

HELP!!!! How can I get them out. Typical wife at the mall and the car door gets scratched pretty bad. It drives me crazy not knowing what it was. Anyhow, how can I get them out??? Several two inch lines in the paint, that start just below the window and go down the entire door. I dont see metal. The dents are very minor but the scratches are visible. What can I do, before taking it to "the man"??
A body guy used compound to take out some scratches when I was rear ended once. Will this work??

ericq

This stuff is sometimes called 'parking lot rash'. I have been avoiding this stuff as much as one can and the only surefire solution is to park way away from the crowd - like the 'back 40'. It's cheap and works. Gets you some exercise too.

kewlkrazy

I need to get a big scratch fixed on the hood of my 2001 Jetta. My insurance company recommended I use Ravenna Volvo in the University District in Seattle. Has anyone used them before ? If so, how is the quality of their work ?

thanks.

ashy

i been to the paint shop in seattle and the quality is excellent

bas2210

i recently rear ended a mercedes....it only scuffed the bumper of the car and the bumper has two minor paint chips at the bottom.....while i didnt do that, i am probably going to have pay for them also....any clue on the cost???should only be a repaint job at worst the paint chips are the size of a dime at most......

Mr_Shiftright

Probably $300-$600 I would guess unless for some strange reason they insist on a new bumper. Have you volunteered to pay or are you uninsured?

bas2210

i volunteered to pay...the scuff could hvae been rubbed off by me and the chips were on the ver bottom of the bumper....i have feeling i am going to get taking to the cleaners though for some reason...

Mr_Shiftright

Well if it gets ugly you may have to turn it over to the insurance company---they can get tough for you. Don't agree to anything until you get at least two estimates.

bas2210

yeah thats what i am doing....only problem is i was driving my gf car...so the car is insured with her...my real fear is that they are going to say the bumper is broken or something...i rubbed half the scuff when i toughted the bumper

Mr_Shiftright

It doesn't matter to the insurance company who was driving as long as you are licensed and legal and the right age. :You'd better keep a close eye on this one and look out for yourself. The other person has a right to have their car looking as good as new, but not to be pocketing extra money on you.

bas2210

yeah; i just dont want to drive up her rates and her family's on something i did

dfrederick2005

can anybody recommend me inexpensive paint shop? i will take my ve golf there... I mean I am looking for a place as soon as possible and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

sparky7

I just bought a 2005 accord.I want to keep the finish in good condition.Does anyone have aany info on waxes and sealants.I don,t have time to do it myself so I will go through a detailer.With only 44miles on it someone open their door and put a quarter size dent on the passsenger door.I,m thinking of the paintless dent removal but I,m concerned about fixing the dent from the rear.This means they will have to take the door panel apart.Has anyone had any experience with this type of removal on a newer model. Thanks

hammen2

I would talk to your dealer and see if they have a PDR guy/gal come out periodically. Talk to the PDR guy/gal about fixing your car - I've heard horror stories of poorly-trained PDR franchisees getting over their head.

Regarding polishes, this can become a religious debate like Catholic vs. Lutheran, Mac vs. PC, et. al. I personally have been using Zaino polymer-based products - http://www.zainostore.com - for over 4 years now, and I'm still very happy with them/haven't seen anything better. I do it all myself, and, other than the initial paint prep, which can take upwards of a day, I can wash my car and have it look fantastic in about 20-25 minutes...

--Robert

sparky7

I would feel safer with a Honda Dealer taking apart the door panel.I really don,t like the idea of taking anything apart on such a new model.Some ads offered 100% gurrantee.Living with it is an option.I liked the site on polishes.They have a swirl remover.Can you tell me what is the initial paint prep?Thanks for your response and info. Sparky

hammen2

No matter what product you use, you'll want to prep the paint first. This would involve washing the car to remove any grease/wax/etc. which may be on the paint. Zaino recommends, and I have used, blue Dawn diswashing soap to do this. I wouldn't use Dawn very often, but, as a first step, it's OK. I would then use a clay bar (using a spray bottle of Dawn and water as a lubricant) to remove any contaminants (for a new car, i.e. rail dust) from the paint). Wash again with a decent car wash product, and then begin by applying a polish/finish. In my case, I would apply 3 coats of Zaino polish - probably the Z-2 Pro, unless there were already swirls in the paint, in which case I'd apply 1-2 coats of Z-5 first, depending upon the severity.

Regardless of what product you use, I am not a fan of carnauba waxes, since they may look great initially, but wear down over a short period of time. The polymer-based products provide superior longevity and paint protection. Since quick application and ease of use are criteria you're looking for, this is why I'd use a product like Zaino.

By the way, you will want to get some decent microfiber towels and wash mitts, and at least a couple of buckets (one for washing, one for rinsing). I use a hose to wet the car, then to rinse it after hand-washing. Do not wash or apply polish in direct sunlight. Start washing the vehicle from the top down, saving the lower rocker panels and wheels for the end (and use a seperate mitt for these areas). I use a California Water Blade - basically a large wiper-blade-like squeegee - to remove most of the water before drying with a large microfiber drying towel.

Hope this helps,

--Robert

superdog

Got 3 dings from careless people opening their car doors.. looks terrible on my new car.. what is the best solution to get them fixed? Bodyshop? What are the typical costs for fixing them? Can anyone suggest any in the NYC area?? I have a 05 bmw 330i
Thanks in advance!

twinrotts

Just had new tires installed on my factory 17" alloy wheels. Original wheel weights left what appears to be a heavy adhesive residue.
Tar and bug remover did not touch it nor did WD-40. Any suggestions??

leier19

i have a 95 toyota T100 v6 4x4 and my back fender is rused from the inside out and needs to be replaced. there is no way to bondo it or fiberglass it and i took it to get an estimate and they want 2+ grand to fix it.... no gonna pay that so my idea is to put a wooden bed on it and i was wondering if anyone had any experiences with making wooden beds or if they could point me in the right direction on where to start! Thanks, chris

a_seiwert

I recently backed into the rear/side of a ford escort and scuffed the paint. Any idea on how much it will cost to fix? There is no dents or scratches, just a little scuff of paint.

It might be a little more severe than this.
Thank you.

Mr_Shiftright

If the bumper isn't cracked or distorted, a re-paint would be about $200-$300 depending on where you live.

lgjava

Hi!
I've been looking for a good wax to cover over some bad panels I got when I purchased my car. Does anyone know a wax that's good for gray or silver panels? Some newer waxes are for green finishes, but I was wondering if anyone's come out with something for white, gray or silver? When I got my car it had such a fantastic wax job--something I've never been able to replicate.
Any help would be much appreciated!

stoneg

I just purchased a 2005 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab D-Max, and last week at 4,000 miles, I had a lady back into the right rear 1/4 panel.
Every body shop I have been to says that they would repair it, and it will be as good as new. (I believe that it could easily be fixed)
I am wondering if I should insist on replacing the 1/4 panel with a new OEM, so that down the road when it is time to sell, no one will see evidence of bondo, mismatched paint or other wreck related factors?
I can't stand the thought of a vehicle that has over $50,000 in it to not be structurely as it was when it was purchased.

Mr_Shiftright

Usually the body shop won't even straighten a panel unless it's pretty easy for them to do it....and there should be no bondo in the repair either, except perhaps a wafer thin scratch and file filler that is often used at the factory itself to touch up some defects. A good repair should be untectable and a good shop should warranty their work, too.

You are under no obligation to divulge a minor body repair to the next buyer either and I don't think anyone would care about it even if you did tell them. Take some photos of the damage and file them away---that way you can show people how minor it was.

lgjava

Yo Playboy, step back from the caviar tray and 17th century tea cup for a moment.

It must have been nice to have a brand new paint job for at least four months. AFTER four months the wax job that the dealer put on my $31,000 brand new car wore away to reveal two different color doors. You're worried about a ding?

qbrozen

by the way, if they would mismatch the paint on a repaired panel, it will most certainly be mismatched on a new panel, as well.

lcartwright

My Tacoma has been through a lot of bushes, and has a few pretty shallow scratches the previous owner had cheaply repaired (with what looks like nail polish)... i would like to get all of it patched (or a least less noticabley deep) and painted. Here are my questions:

* Should i change my color from red, to something easier to paint?

* Is it easier/cheaper to paint yourself, or to have it done?

* If i were to get it done, what locations are recomended?

Any help, tips, or answers are appreciated.

THANKS IN AHEAD OF TIME!

Lindsey

Mr_Shiftright

What year truck is this and what's its value/condition/mileage do you think? This would help us determine the best course of action for you.

chint

I had a similar issue with my brand new acura Mdx .A small ding on top of the back tire . I dont know what to do . I am planning to try paintless dent removal.

Any sucess on ur side

Thanks

brozhnik

My 03 has been clayed and waxed twice a year and looks good. It's time again. It happens that my dealer has a promo whereby they will give me a free detailing (as a reward for using their services for most maintenance). Their body guys will wash and wax and do the interior - but they don't clay.

So the question: is the claying really necessary this time? Or can it wait til spring cleaning? Thanks for your opinions.

charlesew

It was suggested that I repost this message in this forum and see if someone had some ideas.

At sometime, my 2004 Montana has evidently been cleaned or treated with a product that left streaks down the Charcoal body cladding from the chemical runoff.
So far, I have tried acid wash, many cleaners, wheel cleaners, abrasive polishes, chemical polishes, the list is quite extensive. I have take it to detail shops and my dealer and the only solution they can come up with is to refinish it. If that truly is the only solution, then I will do that next spring.
But, since some product caused this staining, why can't I use the same product to stain all the cladding evenly? I just want it to be all the same color and I'm not too particular which color that might be.
I will try to post a picture that really makes the streaks stand out. It does not look nearly that bad when you look at the vehicle.

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patg2

hi,

i am considering having my red 300m re-painted...what is a reasonable price to pay for a good job...also, is red a difficult color to paint over with a different one, or doesn't it matter? thanks...pat

stoneg

Good Point. I took your advice. I allowed them to repair it instead of replacing it. What really made up my mind was two things: (1) the factory welds vs a body shop weld with no rust proofing, and (2) if the paint were not identical, it wouldn't be as noticable if they fixed a rear 1/4 panel, versus painting a new panel and taking the chance that it would be noticable up next to the cab. Thanks again.

stoneg

Not a fan of caviar, but I am sorry to hear about your $31k two tone paint job. My truck has a little over $51,000 in it, and now after five days and $1,000 (to the insured who hit me), the "Ding???" is gone.

Mr_Shiftright

Probably $3,500 on up to $7,500 for a factory equivalent stock color paint job. It's never a good idea to change colors since you can't easily paint the door jambs, trunk engine bay, etc. It wouldn't look very good and if you had to disassemble the entire car to paint it, well you wouldn't want to pay for that. You can get cheaper paint jobs but they will be sloppy and the paint they use will be inferior.

kocour

I recently bought a new Audi and within the first few months of ownership the hood received two severe scratches when a car in front of me pulled over onto the shoulder and threw several large rocks onto my car. The rocks tore through the clear coat in couple of places and left one inch long scratches. My insurance is willing to pay to repaint the hood and have it blended into the fenders. My question is am I better living with these minor but noticeable blemishes or having the hood re painted. Over the long run is the factory paint job going to hold up better than a re painted hood?

Mr_Shiftright

You know it all depends (entirely) on the quality of the work that is done. If your hood ends up being a slightly different color or if it fades in a year, it was a mistake, but if the workmanship is top notch, it'll look better than what you have. You also have to think about what claims might do to your insurance rates. This repair has to be worth the potential increase in rates.

I'm sort of leaning towards tellling you to get it fixed but I haven't seen the scratches so I don't know how particular you are being here.

astro2005

I have some finish damage on the hood about an inch in diameter caused by bird poop. how easy is it to repair this myself with some sandpaper and the matching paint? About what would it cost to have a pro do it?

Mr_Shiftright

No you can't really do a good job with those simple remedies. To repaint an entire hood could cost maybe $300-$800.

kazbee

Typically the acid from the dropping only penetrates the the first couple layers of clear coat. You can easily remove yourself. Start by using a cleaner with a mild abrasive, such as Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut cleaner. Apply and remove 3 or 4 times, or more if blemish is really deep. Follow with Mequiar's #9 Swirl remover. Apply and remove as many times as it takes until you are satisfied with the result. Follow up with wax, and it will disappear. I have done this many times. Note that the cleaners are like sandpaper. You start with the harsh and work your way to the finer until you have a very smooth surface. DO NOT use sandpaper, or rubbing compound, or any other overly harsh abrasive. Meguiar's makes cleaners with a harsher abrasive than #2, but I would rather use something milder many times than something harsh once. I made that mistake once, it took forever to fix. Good luck.

dmaljunk

If it's the bumper then leave it alone because you will get more of those and then one day just have the dealer or body shop blend them all at once. Also, consider putting bumper moldings on, they protect well and often make the car look better

4xfan

hello...i have a 94 dakota that needs a fender repaired and i want to have it painted the original colors and the windows tinted. my question is , could i buy the fender and whatever from like , jc whitney..and ask the shop to install them ? or is that not done ? the paint job is probably going to exceed the value of the truck ,it's just something i want to do. it also has a shell that will need painting as well. should i look for a shop that does it all, or get tinting,etc. done at separate places? can any shop repaint with factory colors? thank you for your time