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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair



  • Has anyone heard of or used the Perma-Finish Paint Protection System. Check out: . They say you don't have to wax your car for 6 years. I'm taking delivery of an 02' Black LSE this week and was thinking of getting this done here in the Atlanta area. Appreciate any comments.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    hee, hee, hee. six years, that's really rich, these guys don't have any confidence in their scam. most of these characters figure in 14 months or so they can get the money salted away in the Cayman Islands and retire off-shore. in six years, somebody can catch up to them, like the FTC.

    good artist, though, on the "artists' conceptions." almost as good as the guy who drew the hammers, lightning bolts, and winces for the 1960s Anacin commercials. if I had hammers, lightning bolts, and winces in my head instead of clogs in my arteries, I would visit museums and pay any price for a 1960s bottle of Anacin.

    a bottle of good liquid wax is under $10. you can buy a roll of flannel polish towels for $4. Use them as directed. that works as advertised.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    Porshe dealers sells both a cleaner and a protectant for convertible tops under the Porshe label. I use it on my wife's MB SL and think these are fantastic products. Kind of expensive, but you can stretch the cleaner by only making up a liter or so at a time. When I used the protectant, I used the entire spray can. It;s been about 5 months and it still looks great.
  • ochizonochizon Posts: 25
    My car was parked by its self, very innocently, on a stretch of parking lot at my apt complex where few others ever park. When I went to go drive it, there was a big old dent in the passenger side door. Some fool nailed it while backing out and took off.

    Here's the deal: The dent is large, but there are no sharp edges to the dent (if that makes sense)and all of the paint is intact. It seems as if it could be popped out pretty easily.
    So should I try it myself? If so, how would I go about doing it?
    The car is a very simply built toyota tacoma with manual everything, so there shouldn't be much between the door and the sheet metal.
    Should I just leave this to the pros (in other words, live with the dent since I'm broke)?

  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    take a look at this:

    Scroll down to the KD2761 ($18.61) device.

     I would think you could go to a large tool warehouse near you, buy a similar sized suction cup, try it and return if it doesn't work. I don't believe you can make the dent worse by trying this.

    Good luck!

  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    bet a suction cup that stays on long enough to pull a big whang out will leave a small ring in the clearcoat, and since metal generally stretches in a noticeable dent there may be a ripple or two, but it sure would be better than an impression of the other character's bumper. that's a nice looking tool for the price.

    notice the copy next to the picture says it will pull almost any dent that didn't crease the metal. that's a big gotcha in pulling dents, because once there is a hard crease in the bottom, you have expansion, paint damage, and the crease reinforces the new shape of the metal and strengthens its new path. at that point, you pull what you can, and putty over the rest and refinish.
  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    Just today I saw a Bondo Dent Puller (suction cup device) in automotive section of local Meijer store for $3.49! Worth a try maybe?
  • f4u1d25f4u1d25 Posts: 3
    I've got a beautiful new silver Acura CL 3.2 Type S and making the car so attractive are the color-
    matched bumpers that show every scratch and chip and since I live in a large city I've been hit enough times for me to consider having the rear bumper repainted. My car wash place fixes this type of problem and will completely redo the bumper for a nominal fee. However I don't want to make this a repeat situation and was wondering if anyone out there knows of a company that makes attractive color-matched vinyl protection strips to solve this problem?
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    I have heard a rumor that the side panels on the Honda and Acura are "thinner" than most other cars such as the ES300, I35, and Toyota Camry and therefore are more sensitive to door dings. Is this true?
  • I own a '98 black Eclipse Spyder GS-T. I bought it new and have babied the car finish. I wash the car every week and I wax it 4 times a year. I never let any contaminates remain on the paint surface. Basically, you can comb your hair while looking at my car. Now comes the sad part...I have noticed the trunk lid starting to develop a haze. I have waxed and used a clay bar and I am certain the problem lies underneath the clearcoat. After I wax the car, it is very smooth to the touch. The haze looks like thousands of tiny dots. I suspect the paint is failing for some reason. My first thought is perhaps the car was somehow damaged before I purchased it from the dealer and it was painted. Question #1, does a dealer have to inform the buyer that the car has been repainted prior to the sale? #2, from what I have described, does anyone have any ideas on what would cause an original factory paint job to fail like this (assuming that the car was never repainted prior to me buying it)? #3, short of having it sanded and repainted, is there anything else that can be done?

    Any advice would be most helpful. This is making me sick!
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    Before you panic, try stripping all the acumulated wax off the finish to Sse what the finish looks like without all the wax. You did say wax, like carnuba and not a polymer?

    Dishwashing soap, especially the high alkaline kind like the unscented "blue" Dawn works well. Maybe even give it a couple of washes.

    If the finish is still hazed, try using a polish/glaze and a good orbital buffer with a foam pad. These are not waxes but mildly abrasive compounds designed to remove a very thin amount of finish and surface oxidation. There are professionals that will do this for you if you want.

    Or go to a good auto paint shop and see what they think.
  • scrapscrap Posts: 8
    I am in the process of possibly fixing a repairable Mercury Sable. I am searching for doors for the car, I've contacted a few salvage yards, one the yards tells me I can get the color off of the VIN. I know the paint code is on the the little tag on the door, but the car is a good 150 miles away from me so it's not like I'd be able to check the tag. My question does anyone know if Mercury designates the color red as maroon? And if I would be able to get the color off of the VIN?
  • mpynempyne Posts: 120
    whats the best way to remove touch up blobs on my hood. Will langka work on blobs that are a week old??? also will a mild polish help even out the blobs??
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    There isn't a digit in the VIN which denotes paint code, but if you call a Mercury dealer and give them the VIN they'll be able to punch it in and determine the code from the build data.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    they should be about middle-middle of the door sticker, one for body, and if a second one exists, one for contrast color, like the lower body paint.
  • Thanks for the advice, but don't you think the clay bar would have removed any wax build-up from the surface? Are you suggesting the problem could be with bad wax?
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I'm not sure if the clay will remove all the old wax or not. I'm sure it would after a prolonged claying, but depending on how many coats of wax you have and how long you clayed....I don't know. A couple of washes with Dawn should. You could also use some mineral spirits or denatured alcohol to wipe down the bad area. These are not strong enough to hurt the paint, but should clean off that old wax easily. Of course the finish once stripped of all the wax will look a tad bit different.

    However, I think that chances are good you are seeing some oxidation of the paint. Depending on how deep the oxidation goes the fix could be easy or realy difficult. A little polishing to remove surface oxidation, or as you suggested, repainting. A good paint shop could help sort that out.
  • Thanks for the advice. As much as I have waxed the car and have kept it in showroom condition (and garage kept) it is hard to think it would be suffering from oxidation already, but I suppose that is not impossible. I'll remove the wax and they check it out. Thanks for responding.

    I do wonder if it is paint failure from the manufacturer if after 4 years and 41,000 miles if Mitusishi would provide any compensation if repainting is needed?

  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    It never hurts to ask, but I woiuls be suprised. Good luck with it.
  • headers8headers8 Posts: 23
    Obviously, no matter how careful a driver you are, you could still end up in an accident.

    The other day, my 02 Sienna CE was rear-ended. I was stationary with my foot on the brake, waiting to turn a corner, when a 97 Rav 4 bumped my rear. The impact was quite strong, but not enough to do a big damage on my bumper. It held up well and there was only a slight dent on it. I already had the repair done on it by the dealer who informed me that they did not note any serious structural damage on it or the chassis/body, so there was no need to replace it.

    I am curious to know if the rear ender might have caused any damage to my tranny, brakes, steering, wheel alignment (my front wheels were positioned to turn) or others.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    alignment might be slightly affected, but if you don't have any N V H issues punching up to speed on the highway and holding it, I wouldn't lose any sleep over the issue. have it checked at the next tire rotation if you're really worried.

    probably didn't take any more shock than hitting a pothole while pulling out of a parking lot.

    a Yugo... errr, excuse me, a Zastava... would be another matter.
  • headers8headers8 Posts: 23
    thanks for your reply.

    Pardon my ignorance, what's NVH.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    noise / vibration / harshness.
  • jinmojinmo Posts: 5
    Just got a black 98 CL 3.0 and just wanted some tips on how to take care of it. How often should I wash and wax and with what to maintain, or get, a mirror finish. Also have a couple little dents and wondering how to get them out. Do suctions actually work without ruining paint? Thanks
  • malachy72malachy72 Posts: 325
    Try going to . You'll get a lot in their forums.
  • merckxmerckx Posts: 565
    My year-old Passat got a very light ding in the middle of a front door,about two-thirds up(large expanse of metal). But being dk grey,and still so shiny,it's noticable from 10 ft. away. Up close,you can't see it.
    I'm wondering if "paintless dent removal" could fix it,or if I should try the large suction cup mentioned here last month. How much do the experts typically charge? The dent is small,a little less than a quarter.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that's worth trying the heat-gun type dentless repair on, IMHO. the suction cups are larger than that, and on a large flat section like that, might leave their own little dent from being pushed on. popping it from the back is likely to leave a ring.
  • webguysterwebguyster Posts: 434
    I just had a "hood bender", with my 2000 Solara Se V6 Black Metallic Sand Pearl. The replacement "OEM" hood now has stripes in direct sunlight, a hologram effect, and often 2 floating suns, under the already swirled clearcoat. The body shop took a look, on a cloudy day, and wet sanded the hood again. Still looks horrible. New paint from blending already cracking at the bottom of fenders, a part that was not damaged by skidding under the truck. They clear coated it too, so its noticable from the dull black bottom of the rest of the car. Everything under the hood they fixed is clear coated!?! Is this a common practice in autobody? The shop I used is a dealer certified and owned shop, but I don't think they have done the best job possible. Used touch up paint to seal the bare metal at bottom of fenders, as I am reluctant to let it remain bare until the shop car take a look, with it raining all weekend. They already touched up some cracking paint under the hood. Any feedback. They say the optical distortion is caused by buffing and will go away, but not to wax or polish for at leat 90 days. I think that the hood should look "NEW" leaving the body shop. I went to another body shop, and they were an Allstate owned shop. The person I spoke with said, all black cars leave with streaks, and floaters!?! I have been more aware when walking through mall parking lots, and have yet to see another black car with these types of distortions.

    Ding removeal...Having my Solara for 2 years now, and knowing why Saturn used dent resistant doors, I have spend hundreds of dollars in dent removal from door dings. The place I use uses the suction cups, and does a good job, without leaving any noticable markings, "outside" the car. Under the hood, and truck, the points of entry gets screwed up and mangled.
  • cheerfulcheerful Posts: 31
    What is best way to fix those very thin and shallow lines of scratch? I have some 10 lines in paralell, about 5 inches long. They are quite visible in front. The scratch is really thin. I could not get the touch-up paint into just the scratch -- it always messes up the nearby area.

    I have seen ads on TV about those scratch-remover. Are they any good?

  • phillyguy3phillyguy3 Posts: 88
    Tried 2 different ones after I inadvertantly removed clear coat with compound to remove scratches. Best is Mothers from Pep Boys. Looks new.
    Now I'm going to try touch up for stone chips and rub smooth with The Blob Eliminator. Keep you posted.
    BTW, advice came from, detailer on this thread. Thanks.
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