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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair

1246736

Comments

  • I was out of town on business for 2 weeks and left my car parked outside under several trees, some were pine trees, thus I have pitch on my car. I have bought a Turtle wax sap/bug remover (useless). Any suggestions on how to remove the pitch it is on the roof/hood of my car.
  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    how significant is the "new paint technology" just announced by Mazda? See :


    http://www.auto-asia.com/viewcontent.asp?pk=7359

  • peppe1peppe1 Posts: 54
    Warm water and soap in the shade usually does the trick.
    Good luck,
    Tom
  • headers8headers8 Posts: 23
    My Sienna recently got a scratch and visible ding on the passenger side sliding door. I think that if only I could get to the inside of the door, I could probably push the ding out.
    Does anybody know how of a relatively easy way to remove the dent? Do those dent pullers work?
    I also retouched the scratch with the Toyota touch up paint pen. Is there a batter way to retouch it?
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I've had Dent Pro work on several of my cars from time to time. They use metal rods they slip in behind the dent and massage it out of the metal with outward pressure. The guy told me that there was a trick to it so that the metal body panel did not retain a "memory" of the dent, where the panel's indentation might go partially back to the dented position when inadvertantly flexed. I've never tried doing it myself, but have been very happy with Dent Pro. Charges I've experienced have ranged from $80-120 for the removal of several dings at a time, depending on location and ease of access. Look them up on the net.

    Some local detailers and dent removers here in San Diego will air brush the scratches. And some of the dealers have these guys come by once a week for their used car lot and for customers. It leaves a better look than filling the scratch with touch-up. If you do the touch-up yourself, use a toothpick or straight pin or a single bristle from a wisk-broom or large paint brush and gradually fill the sctratch, carefull not to go outside the scratch. Use several coats. It will look better than dabbing it with the brush provided in the touch-up paint.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    or better yet a roller, if you figure on using the brush in the bottle. it's just as "invisible." I second the toothpick theory, and want to go on record as saying the paper-matchstick theory is as subtle as throwing the bottle of paint at the car as well.
  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    you might take a look at this for minor paint repair :


    http://www.langka.com/


    If anyone has used Langka products please share your experience with us.

  • Apparently someone thought I was someone they didn't like at the mall today and wrote on my white 2002 Accord in an approximately 3" by 3" space in black permanent marker. Is there any way to get rid of it without destroying the paint on my hood?
  • atuzaiatuzai Posts: 47
    maybe you can try some Acetone. I use it remove the decal sticker residule on my car. it works great. I did not try permanent marker before. But guess it will work. try a small area first anyway.

    good luck
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that's really neutral towards cured paint. if that doesn't do it all, I would try isopropyl alcohol next.

    somebody munged up a (vinyl) bumper sticker a few elections ago on my older truck with a black marker. curiously, a little WD40 on a rag polished the marker right off.

    as always, try in an inconspicuous area, etc.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    Thats'good advice from swschrad. I'd only use acetone as a last resort. It is a very harsh solvent for a car paint surface. If the solvents don't work, you might try buffing the marks out with a glazing compound and an orbital buffer.
  • Thanks for the recommendations. I used some Goo Gone at the recommendation of the guy at the local auto paint shop. It got the marker down 75 percent or so, but it's still there (though it looks purplish rather than black now).

    I don't want to go any harsher w/chemicals than the Goo Gone. I'll try a foam pad w/ glazing compound first, then I'll have to take it to a professional b/c I'm not experienced with a buffer.

    Thanks again. I'll let you know how it works out.
  • Wonder if someone could suggest on how to remove light scratch on my late model light green ford.

    Noticed couple of scratch removing products at the store. Any pros/cons for using these products.

    Thanks in advance for any tip.
  • I would try Meguiar's Scratch X - it comes in a black tube and I got mine at Wal-mart -
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    I tried that other brand, can't recall its name now, and it did absolutely nothing with my scratch. Totally bogus product! Does anyone else know of a product that truly does work???

    The Sandman :-)
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I would try Mequires "Swirl Remover" followed by "Show Car Glaze" using a good orbital buffer and a foam pad.

    Alternatively, try using a non-whitening toothpaste and the orbital buffer/foam pad. It's a little mesy, but usually does the trick.

    I can never get scratches polished out by hand. It usually takes a few minutes with the orbital. But be careful around the edges and don't use terrycloth or synthetic lams wool bonets or pads. The foam ones work the best for polishing.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    Somebody scraped the rear bumper of our new car. (What a great way so save $30 when parking in Manhattan - don't go to a parking garage, instead look for a spot to park on the street - that usually takes 30 to 45 minutes - park the car but make sure to leave it long enough in order to get a big scrape on one of the bumpers, then spend hundreds of dollars to repaint the bumper!)

    On top of that, a few weeks later somebody keyed the car.

    I went to a body shop and made an appointment to fix all this. They will remove the rear bumper and one of the side panels (where the car was keyed rather badly) and repaint them. By the way, the car color is black.

    A couple of questions for the experts here - I asked if I need to order the right paint from Acura, and was told no - they could get the color from the door label, and they carried all possible colors. How is that possible? There must be thousands of different colors. Also what about the quality of the paint? Don't I want the same kind/type as OEM? What are the chances the new paint will match the old one? Also, is the painting process much different than the manufacturer's painting process?

    Any input will be greatly appreciated!
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    That frankly is a tough issue. I've had bad paint matching from both factory paint, and 3rd party ones, and also excellent matching from both sources.

    The problem is that there are always slight variations and getting paint from another batch will be slightly different.

    I had an exact match recently when they used a computerized paint system to establish the color on a front bumper. Perfect.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    OEM may mean several paint suppliers deliver tubs of paint to the factory (I think they are around 40 gallons, but may be mildly off in the quantity. it is definitely a big gob of paint.) no telling whose paint is on your vehicle to a certainty without interrogating the factory's records.

    however, paint makers don't want to get shut out because they label baby-barf orange as GM white. so they try hard. in major cities, the large refinish outfits like PPG and DuPont have factory-packed paint down to pint sizes that are rigorously tested. of course, sunlight and air contact fade paint, so YMMV. black is a little safer in this respect.

    most paint resellers to the body shops, and those body shops that mix their own, have bulk colors and base mixes, auto-stirring stands for the bulk colors for consistency, and mix by fractional gram weights. I was the first non-founder employee of a start-up company here in the late 1980s that licensed all the refinish formulations of almost all the paint makers and computerized them, allowing easier conversion for quantity, as opposed to looking up the formula in a book and mixing just quarts and gallons.

    I am led to believe that the scan-and-calculate mixers we dreamed about, and that are fairly common in home improvement stores and hardware stores for house paint, have gotten to the auto refinish trade, which will help a bit. you put a sample under the light, hit a button, and the formula is displayed. that can really do a job to overcome the fade issue.

    in the end, however, it is possible for a skilled painter to blend blue into green almost imperceptibly without these tricks. you start with as close as you can get, dabbing a bit on the fingernail and checking it in several different colors of light next to the car. then, starting on the damaged side, you lay down small but successively larger thin "flash" coats of color... each time, mixing a little more "blend" color-free paint base in the spraygun cup. I have seen this in a techniques class, and it's amazing. and that was 15 years ago.

    moral: good materials in great hands make unbelieveable quality, and it can get better than that. crap anywhere in the work flow yields crap.
  • I worked for my father's shop in the mid-90s. Part of my job list was mixing paint, using the formula book, balance beam, and mixer that swschrad mentioned.

    In each case we used either the vehicle's door-sticker code or, in some cases where the paint's chemical composition had changed (eg: new EPA rules), a code supplied by either the mfr or the paint supplier (NAPA) to account for new molecular stuff.

    Of course, using this process guaranteed a match only to vehicles whose paint was totally unfaded/glazed/otherwise damaged by weather effects. If your vehicle is kept outdoors, the only way to get the perfect match is with one of the spectrum analyzers that schrad mentioned. You stick paint chip in the machine and it shines pure white light on the chip, then measures the wavelength of the reflected light, and determines which paint pigments are needed to create exactly the same reflected wavelengths. Astrophysicists use similar technique to determine the chemical composition of objects in the cosmos.

    DjB
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    even "white" has some grey, purple, etc. in it to cut the blinding glare from pure white, and all pigments except lampblack and titanium-dioxide white will fade in the sun. at different rates, just to make it more interesting. that's why matching the color is so much darn fun.

    I did what painting I have done from Dupli-Color cans over the years, but I learned more about paint in a year of supposedly wrangling computers by discussion, example, and sitting through a few workshops than I could have believed.

    I assume all those chemistries are about gone now, due to EPA and other rules and regulations. no ten parts of liver-eating solvent to one part of "wear supplied air respirators when handling this product" paint any more.

    or so the dings in soft paint thread would have me believe.
  • One of the guys who worked for my dad was forced to change professions because of long-term exposure to fumes. Even with masks/filters etc it's rough.

    DjB
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    Thank you guys - all this info is much appreciated!

    Another question - is the paint/painting process inferior to the factory paint/paint job? And do I have to wait for a while before waxing?

    Thanks again!
  • I used Goo Gone on some black permanent marker on the hood of my white 2002 Accord, but I could still see a dark shadow of the graffitti.

    Well, I let it sit for a couple of days, and after a rainstorm the remaining marker is gone. Completely. Can't find it at all.

    I promptly washed and waxed and thanked the Lord for unexpected blessings (like acid rain?).

    Thanks for all of your suggestions.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    factory painting can be the best... depending on whether they care... and whether they stick with a chemical system or buy whatever bids the best this week. it is hard to duplicate a first-rate factory paint job because you will never have the car frame and body panels attached with no trim, glass, accessories, tires, or geegaws again.

    that said, there are a lot of owners who had peeling paint over the years who think that a roller and a can of Dutch Boy semigloss beats what they got.

    a really good tech with a clean painting bay and good materials can meet or beat your average factory job even if they shouldn't have put off hitting the rest room before mixing the paint.

    general advice is to NOT muck around with new paint for a week, not leaving it blazing hot sun during this time, etc. to insure all the crosslinking and bonding is complete, and the surface is as hard as it will get. stuff DOES happen, however, and if you can't see the scratches when the squirrels run across the car, don't have a coronary over it.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Posts: 398
    thanks swschrad - comments much appreciated!
  • Saw a TV commercial yesterday about GS 27 scratch remover. Seems very easy to use and great results. Anyone has experience with it? Do you think it will work with new car paint with no damage on the car?


    here is a link I found from google: http://www.seenontvmall.com/automotive/gs27.htm

  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Garbage, garbage, garbage!!! I got some of this stuff and it did nothing on my car or a customers of mine. What a bunch of crap! Save your money and don't buy this crap!

    The Sandman :-(
    (Just my personal opinion)
  • If I ever find the kid who threw a huge gob of pink bubble gum on my car's hood ... anyway, my dealer's detail guy was able to remove the gum from the hood without damaging the finish, but can anyone suggest a product I can use rather than having to go to the dealer every time something nasty gets on the paint?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    and I had what appeared to be crayoning on the back of Dad's suburban once and called it in.. the cop who came out offered a screen wipe for his laptop that also took that off. but most of those have a neutral-ionic cleaner as well as isopropyl alcohol. the alcohol is a little harsher on paint than the mineral spirits, but I have used it as a wax strip many a time.

    stoddard solvent (tar and bug remover) is also fairly mild, but it will leave white rings when it dries from softening wax. it should be obvious how to deal with that ;)
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