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Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair



  • curlyqcurlyq Posts: 54
    Anyone interested in this topic should go to the Toyota Solara discussion under "Coupes". There are many new postings on this subject.
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    While I was away in the desert my wife decided to paint the lawn furniture (white) on a windy day. Now my (Black) 3 month old car looks as if it is dusty all the time (if you look close)!! She did this over a month ago, and now I'm trying to figure out how to fix this.... the paint that is! Any ideas? I got a bottle of cleaner wax, but I have my doubts. How about the clay bars? I'd hate to have to use polish or compound on such a new car.
    What can I use to get the paint off the rubber moldings and vinyl trim?
  • jjv55jjv55 Posts: 20
    I have a 2000 Accord. It was parked under a fir tree (by my better half) and now has droplets of sap in various places. Does anyone have any advice for its removal? I can get a bit of it off by hand, but it still leaves a sticky mark.

  • mdwhearymdwheary Posts: 3
    I had quite a few heavy sap droppings on my car and used Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover to remove them from the car surface. It comes in a spray can or as a liquid paste. Test in a inconspicuous area first to make sure it won't damage the surface. You should also use the remover when the car's surface is cool (i.e. not in direct sunlight). I sprayed some on the sap droppings, let them sit for a minute or so and then gently scraped them with a thin piece of plastic. I then reapplied a little more remover and wiped away any remaining residue.
  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    I think your best bet will be a polish. But stay away from coarse polishing compounds if you can. Take a look at Meguire's or 3M "glazes". Some are very, very mild and are made for polishing up the paint prior to waxing for show cars and the like. You can find lots of info on their web pages.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    butter, peanut oil, and stoddard solvent (bug and tar remover) have all worked for me, with peanut oil being the best at getting sticky, resiny pine sap off my trucks.
  • tntitantntitan Posts: 306
  • awagon1awagon1 Posts: 5
    Has anyone else noticed the paint flaking off early 90s GM vehicles? Personally noticed quite a few before the paint began to abandon my 1991 T-15 Jimmy. I've kept my Jimmy washed, waxed, and garaged when it wasn't in the snow and mud. Has anyone heard of GM caring about all the ruined paint caused by a bad formulation they used in the early 1990s?
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    everybody had peeling issues again in the early 90s... mostly silver, there were dark blue issues with ford, and others had some different color issues. you see a lot of peeled back cars on the road since the automakers don't give a rip about reimbursing the customers even for paint any more. guess the solution is to glue corks, or slinkies, or shoes, or whatever the mad hatter version of refinishing a car is in your neck of the woods. I would also suggest a sign in the window, "Misfire Motors refuses to put paint on their cars that stays... before or after the sale." because this is getting to be a way old story with this lot, and it's time to turn the tables on these outfits.
  • awagon1awagon1 Posts: 5
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    maaco uses a different class of paint than is put on cars today, more modern version of what your choices were in the 1970s. besides, the dealers would be raising blazing hell if their body shops were in competition with the factory.

    chevy used to have regional service centers that were factory-owned in larger cities, at least into the 1960s. dealers didn't like it. they eventually made their point, and the chevy service centers closed. we had one in fargo that took three stories over half a block to do their business.
  • peppe1peppe1 Posts: 54
    Could someone tell me the difference between "clear coat" and "pearl coat".
  • mpynempyne Posts: 120
    i may be wrong but from my understanding clearcoat is basically transparent paint that is used to create a shine over a base coat.
    pearlcoat is basepaint(pigment color) with crushed mother of pearl in the formula.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Pearl coat is a almost reflective coat put down between the base and the clear coat to make the paint look more impressive.
  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    A Tri-Coat (or 3-stage paint) has three different layers: base coat, pearl coat and clear coat. The base coat can be a solid color or a metallic color. The pearl coat is a translucent paint with pearl flakes mixed in. The last coat is the clear coat, which is a shiny see through paint. This is also a protective coat from the sun. Tri-Coats show slight highlights of diverse colors when you look at your car from different angles.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Thanks Alternator...said it better than i ever could. I only used to paint them, but h*ll if i can explain it :)
  • peppe1peppe1 Posts: 54
    Thanks for the info.
  • This may be a little off subject, but it is the closest discussion I saw. I have a convertible (Boxster) with a soft top. I can see the water does not bead-up like it used to.

    Is it recommended to treat the soft top with Scotch Guard or something else? I called Scotch Guard, and they didn't make any promises regarding safety of their product on a soft top. They also mentioned that the rain will wash away the Scotch Guard after a rains.

    Should I use something else, or nothing at all?

  • mpynempyne Posts: 120
    can anyone explain what it is and if it works? it usually states its used on lower fenders etc....
  • I have been using RaggTopp convertible top protectant, on my black soft top (Spyder GS-T

    Eclipse) for the past several years. I think it works great. I buy it from Autofanatics. Here is the link:
  • The RaggTopp products on the web site look great! I think I'll check a few auto supply stores for the product, but I have a feeling it is only available on-line. If so, I think I'll order it.

    Thanks again. This is exactly what I was looking for (and the UV protection is a bonus.)
  • alternatoralternator IndianaPosts: 628
    of auto painting technology, see

    mpyne: see page 145 therein for chip resistant coatings

  • fear_hopefear_hope Posts: 90
    Does anyone know how to remove scratches from the outer casing of a sideview mirror? It is not painted and the surface is dull black. Has anyone tried to do this? Any experience or ideas would be appreciated. This van is just too wide for my garage doorway!
  • bruticusbruticus Posts: 229
    My only suggestion on removing scratches from the plastic mirror body would be to use a somewhat coarse hand-polishing compound and buff one scratch. Since the plastic is pretty thick you don't have to worry about buffing through, but I'm not 100% sure you won't alter the appearance of the scratched area vis-a-vis surrounding plastic (ie you might cause the plastic to look more/less dull, or appear hazy, etc)

    I want to buff/polish the paint on my car, but doing it by hand is a killer. Any recommendations on electric random-action/orbital buffers?

  • sddlwsddlw Posts: 361
    Stay away from orbital buffers unless you have used them before. These are professional tools and can easily damage the paint if not used properly. Find a good quality orbital, with a good balance. It should not hop around but stay smooth and steady on the surface of the car. There are different polishing pads and different compounds/polishes/glazes for different kind of work. Glazes used with foam pads are the least abrasive. Rubbing compounds used with synthetic lambs wool bonnets are the more abrasive. Even with an orbital buffer, be careful at the corners and raised areas with the compound/lambs wool. You can burn right though the paint. I like to stick with the glaze/foam pad combo unless there are deap scratches or oxidation. It is very hard to hurt the car with this combo.
  • fear_hopefear_hope Posts: 90
    Does anyone else have any suggestions? Has anyone successfully removed such scratches before? Thanks!
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    I discovered why they call 'em "breakaway" mirrors, and have a little kiss on the right one on my exploder from the garage door molding. I was able to reduce the obviousness a little using Novus #3, but it's still marked on the outer edge.

    have not tried ABS solvent as I know what happens to the pattern and color when I use that stuff.

    you could try a little black tire or vinyl top wax and see if it covers the thing up... black shoe polish if you don't have the other handy.
  • bruticusbruticus Posts: 229
    I had been planning to use only machine-glaze compound, as there are no deep scratches on my car (knock on wood) but wasn't aware that a foam pad is best for this.

    My father's (he lives 4 hours away :-( )backyard shop has a compressor and air-powered buffer, but I've used it in the past and know how easy it is to erase the paint completely (fortunately, I was just practicing on old cars/parts) so I will look into electric-powered machines this weekend. I also want to be able to do this whenever I have time, rather than having to wait until I visit him for a weekend.

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