Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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What's my classic worth?
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Well, he hasn't placed any ads yet, but we both know a local guy who's had his own Mercedes/Porsche/BMW repair shop for years, and who also has owned and restored a bunch of old cars. My friend also has an 84 Mercedes 300D, [200,000 on the body, 80,000 on the engine-everything good on the car] that he also wants to sell.
This mechanic friend went and looked at the Mercedes and the Healey, and offered 4000 cash for both cars. My friend is inclined to take it. I must say, selling to somebody who knows exactly what they're getting, without even having the hassle of placing an ad, answering calls, etc, would be attractive to me.
Whadya think-should he take the 4000 for both?
However, If the 300D is a shabby car with other needs, well then sure, clear out the two of them. As I said with either of his cars, he isn't sitting on a gold mine here.
The Healey has really deteriorated since tha last time I looked at it [25 years ago!] and has much worse rust than what I described before. Right behind the drivers' door, on the rear fender, the rust goes clear through, and deep. A big hole. The floors are also rusty-not sure if they're clear through or not. The engine of course is frozen. I mean, the car would need everything. The chrome is good-no rust.
As for the Mercedes, only thing wrong is the air conditioning doesn't work. And, he says the heater doesn't work right either? It has all the options, sunroof, etc, and looks good except the paint's a little dull in spots. It is that buttercream color with tan interior that is so common. A good rubout would work wonders, I think. Thing is, I ran the Kelley Blue Book on it, and it comes up with a private party value of $1400, and a dealer's retail of $2650. Big difference in these two values, but it seems like he could get at least close to 2000 for the MB. Why does Kelley say $1400 for private party value$ A local dealer told him $1350 wholesale-so, it does seem like the $4000 for both is a little low. Anyway, he's going to counter with $5000 for both, and see what the guy says. I think this might be close-for cash in the hand, anyway. We'll see. Like you say, these aren't gold mines, and the Healey's just taking up space [no garage] he doesn't have.
Thanks for your input. I'll also pass on the info about the guy you told me about.
To answer your question, I don't know. Seems like if it were seized from damage/abuse, then no, it probably wouldn't run again without major work.
Then there's the other stuff--sludged oil passages, bearing surfaces that haven't seen even a trace of oil since the Ford Administration, shrunken gaskets, gunked up carbs, corroded distributor cap contacts and I've probably missed a few things.
You could start a new thread on what happens to an engine when it sits outside for 20 years.
I've seen a full detailing and the offer of installments add thousands of dollars to the value of a car.
Turns out the Mercedes needs a complete brake job. Plus, an electronic heater control circuit board or something that cost him $450 last time it went [ten years ago] now needs replacing again. So neither the heater ar AC are working. So I guess if you add up the cost of fixing these things to the Mercedes,plus the fact that the AH was rustier than I first thought, and would need a total ground up disassembly, it isn't as bad as it sounds. Oh, he probably could have got more. But, you know, selling a car, especially ones like these, around here anyway, can be a pain. And cash on the barrel like that, when the Mercedes looks to need $1000 in work, anyway [my guess?] was hard to passup, I guess.
Don't think I would have closed the deal quite so soon-and on Friday the 13th?
So, anyway, that's the deal.
Thanks again Shifty for your input.
As for the Healey, with that kind of rust, for $4,000 the man who bought it will go to his grave before he ever sees a profit. You can buy a very nice 3000 for $25,000, so do the math.
As for the Healey, I don't know.
Anyway, sounds like $4000 cash was a good deal overall.
A neighbor recently purchased a '67 Chrysler 300 convertible (1594 produced). It's in decent overall condition, white with black interior. It has some cool options: split bench seat with optional headrests and passenger recline, power windows, tilt wheel, cornering lamps, from what I can see. Interior is excellent. It has had some inferior body work done to it, one side is a bit wavy, and the repaint is so-so as well, a bit thick. I think it's missing a bit of trim on the side. The top is in good condition. I guess I'd call the car #3 condition, it's a classic 20-footer. What do you think it's worth?
The current owner made a new dash and replaced the gauges and wiring. It's red w/ black interior and needs painting "again" since the color is fading.
The brakes and suspension have been replaced/maintained and a new water pump went in tonight. Good rubber. Usual wind through the gaps, etc. w/ top up.
There's some rust bubbles on the lower rocker panels (ergo the paint recommendation?). No idea how deep it goes, but Boise has a nice dry climate that could delay the rot. Owner mentions that the electrical system is the maintenance item that most often "needs attention."
I'm looking for a semi-daily driver toy that would get driven maybe 5,000 miles a year, and I'm willing to learn to turn a wrench for simple stuff like I do with my lawnmower, but I'm not especially talented that way. Getting stranded now and then is ok too, but I don't want to dump more than ~$1,000 a year into maintenance if I can avoid it.
Should I just get a Miata? What's a fair price? Thanks!
Steve
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ghulet -- the car sounds like a #4, not a #3. A 3 wouldn't have parts missing and sloppy paint and bodywork.
I'd guess around $5,000 would be enough for a car like this, give or take 10%. Deduct for any mechanical needs not mentioned (or not noticed by the buyer).
The TR is a drop-in-the-lap job; belongs to a friend of a friend. So there's no brand loyalty involved (I'm ok with anything from a Karman Ghia to a baby bumper MG). I'm half looking, but not to the point of visiting any car lots. What I really want is for someone to say "buy this, it's a creampuff, and it's only 4 grand."
Thanks Joe!
Steve
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Lack of posts?
Then the old Nash seats could be made into a bed.
Must have been great on dates!
Shifty
Thanks,
jrosasmc
This site might help, but be sure to read what the different 'conditions" really mean.
www.manheimgold.com
But let's not worry about the final price. You just tell Shiftright what you want to pay each month. You got a job? You own furniture? You could drive out of here tonight, young man.
The 1963 model, while the first year of production, was nearly identical to the 1964 model.
Not that Im refuting what you say, it just blows me away that the 63 is worth more than the 65.
The body looked pretty good, except for a poorly aligned trunk lid that looked like it was open, even when fully latched. I can't remember the mileage though.
They wanted $7995 for it. I'm sure that's overpriced (I mean c'mon, this IS Carlisle!), but what would a typical one of these run for? I've looked at them on the web, and most of them only had 350's by that time, what with the high fuel prices and all, so would the 455 command much of a price premium in something like this?
From what I've seen, I don't think the years of these matter much in terms of value.
I think I lean toward the '64's the most. That was the only year that had the 425/340HP engine as standard equipment. TThey also didn't have the miserable non functioning headlights that plagued the '65's. these sure looked good but seldom worked.
If you buy one, be sure to set aside a huge portion of your paycheck for gasoline!
Part of it might be visual--the hood is long and low and slopes down in front, the fenders are sharply peaked and the effect adds to the driver's sensation of speed. They're narrow too, which gives the car a close-coupled feel.
I don't think the 63-64s are worth more PER SE, but, if you find a '63-64 in really top shape, I think they can pull more on the top end than a '65 can. Does that make more sense?
First year models have a certain pull to them. I mean, why else would anyone pay such prices for a '53 Corvette?
Another slant on it--if you wanted to round out a 4-5 car Riviera collection, you'd have to have a '63.
As for the '75 Le Sabre, it wouldn't be over priced if it was very sharp and well done. It would be HIGH RETAIL, but not overpriced I don't think.
Again, cars like that '75 have very wide price ranges. You get very good money for the best, and very little "for the rest".
That's because they are not so rare and don't have a high demand factor, so buyers, such as they are, can be very fussy.
'75 Buicks are a buyer's market, Hemi Cudas a seller's market.
So you have to look at car pricing in that way as well. What's the demand for this car? What's the price spread look like from #2 to #3 to #4?
Wouldn't one that had all the pollution control removed, and basically retrograded to about 1970 technology be a more pleasant car to own, rather than one all stock? Does that effect the price at all?
Pollution control, the drop in compression, etc. makes a 75 less attractive to me than a 65 Buick convertible. My uncle did that to his 77 Delta 88 with the 403, and it ran much much better.
Not Buick's finest hour.
Still, nice cruisers that looked decent.
Now if you did a nice street rod/custom on a '75 convertible, you might get more money for it, but that would be a substantial effort.
A '72 Impala 'vert would probably be a better car, I'm guessing. They're smaller (about 2.5" in wheelbase, maybe 5-6" overall...not that that would make much difference with a car that big!). Also, the '72 would be a bit lighter, have less emissions crap, and stronger engines.
I did drive a '75 LeSabre 4-door sedan once. It had a 350. Actually, it didn't feel that bad. Hardly a roadburner, but it wouldn't hold up traffic, either. I was thinking about buying it as a beater, right after I had gotten my '69 Dart all fixed up. Only problem was, they wanted more for this "beater" than I'd paid for my Dart, the "nice" car!
Without very strong documentation one can't really determine value.
If it were a real car with superb, iron-clad documents, I'd guess $90,000 or so.
Seriously? I'm trying to get a visual and it's not happening!
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