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oil changes
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Comments
I would also recommend paying the few extra dollars for a synthetic blend. A blend wi 20% syn gives 80% of the anti-wear benefits.
Come to think of it since it's a new car and you go 7500, get a good synthetic. Keep the interior of that new engine clean. I've used Quaker State Synthetic in one car and it has performed admirably. Barely changed color after 6000 Miles and consumes less oil. Starts easier in the morning too.
The strangest thing: The recommended change interval for the filter is twice as long as for the oil! I have never heard this sort of recommendation.
The Normal maintenance schedule calls for engine oil change every 7,500 miles and oil filter every 15,000 miles. The Sever schedule is 3,000 for oil and 6,000 miles for filter.
That is different everything else I've heard about oil/filter changes. Most people change filter and oil at the same time, or they may change the filter twice as often. But not the other way around! Can anyone think of a good reason for this?
I haven't decided how often to change the oil and filter in this new Sedona, but I will definitely be more "aggressive" than Kia recommends in my owners manual.
You can safely use Mobil 1(or other good syn) 10W-30 all year around based on the low pour point for syns. Several winters ago we had some mornings with minus 10 to 20 F. and I had no problem with 10W-30. With 10W-30 you have no Viscosity Improvers and thats a good thing. By using the one oil you would simplify things. You can safely go up to the 7500 mile interval or 6 months with no problem and if you want to extend it in term of months or milage you will have enough oil receipts to do some "creative" maintenance records for warranty purposes.
Later,
Al
In other words, I used to use OEM Honda filters but now I have switched.
Bludevils, That "replace the filter every other time" stuff has been around for a while. My 1986 Escort recommended the same thing. I think it goes to Tsjay's comments about filters being greatly over-engineered for what we use them for. BUT the dirtiest oil is in the filter and for $3-5, it should be changed along with your dirty oil.
Remember, car companies don't want your car to last forever.
--- Bror Jace
I want to test this oil and compare it to the Mobil One when I replace it to see the difference. I am considering going for 7,500 miles (regular non extreme driving conditions manual recommended interval) and if there is a negative difference in the quality of my oil then trying changing the filter after 3,750 miles and retesting the oil.
I was wondering what you "experts" think of this plan? Also, since I am an automotive idiot, what am I looking for in this oil analysis? How much should the analysis cost?
Bror - just for fun, I wish to challenge your "dirtiest oil in the filter" statement. Think about it - the filter is just another collection place in the whole engine oil system. The entire gallon of oil in a car should be more or less equal in cleanliness since it all circulates through the system. The filter only collects particulates on/in the media. It doesn't collect moisture, acid, or other combustion chemicals. So, the oil in the filter is about as dirty as the oil anywhere else.
That said, I agree that the cost of a filter doesn't warrant not replacing it at every oil change.
Have a good week end everyone.
After removing the filter, just set it upside down over a funnel over a mayo jar, assuming that the antibackflow valve is working the oil will filter through the paper and drain out the center hole. Then move to a second mayo jar and use a toothpick to wedge into the antibackflow valve and let THAT oil drain into the second mayo jar.
The function of that filter is to catch physical objects only and those particles will collect on that dirty side of course and you can see that the oil is thicker, you would assume that the dirt is all in the paper but it doesn't seem to do exactly that, but it does stay on the dirty side inside that can. Probably a small difference when comparing with your eyes only, but it is that way, those particles do settle out, ever notice that your dipstick oil may look fairly clean but after running engine and draining the oil looks MUCH darker than it looked on the dipstick,, It is really impt to run the engine and let the oil pick up any sediment before draining.
As for the bypass valve, if the filter has one in the end away from the holes (FRAM) then yes whenever the bypass opens it lets that dirty oil flow right past the filter and back into the motor...bad design and Doitmyself is correct. If the bypass is at the end with the holes then it only lets the new incoming oil bypass and continue to the motor.dirty oil stays in the outside area of the can...acceptable
Not all filters have bypasses so that is not always an issue.
Good Morning y'all
Rando
see ya
Now, just a tiny bit off the subject - any opinions appreciated. I'm trying to develop a practical maintenance schedule for my three John Deere diesel farm tractors. I only put about 150 hours a year on them. The old manuals used to say change the oil spring and fall as a minimum. The newer tractor manuals say to change the oil and filter every 250 hours or at least once a year. My current practice is to change the oil and filter in the spring and then only the oil in the fall - they hold ten quarts, so the small amount left in the filter doesn't concern me and the filter only has been used 1/3 of it's rated life.
I tried contacting the John Deere company - they refuse to give any answers except "develop a good relationship with your local dealer - he's trained - listen to him. Well, you guessed it - the dealers all have their opinion - one says change the oil twice a year, the other says a once a year change interval if perfectly legitimate, especially if you use their "higher quality" filters and their J.D. better oil (they say I can increase change interval 50% with their Plus 50 oil.
So, my question is - Have oil and filters improved that much in the past ten years that it is o.k. to leave oil/filter in an engine for an entire year if you are way below the recommened change interval - in my case 150 hours versus 250 (375hrs. if I used their oil.)????? I live in the lake states with variable weather. Won't there be lots of condensation, additive break down, etc.?
Thanks for any helpful opinions.
P.S. I also have a 17kw generator with a 4 cyl. Ford engine - they also recommend a one year oil change interval. Why are cars 3 months/ 3,000 miles?
So, I think one year is fine unless you are into a very dusty usage, plowing fields etc. may ceate a lot of dust.
(http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
But there are others as well.
I like Blackstone because they will send you the sample kits, and it is relatively simple. Get on their website, and everything is explained.
Cost is not too bad at $18.50, and postage is $1.49, so for about $20 total, you've got your answer. BTW, tell the nosey Post Office type that you are sending a "soil" sample in for analysis, else they will want you to package it differently which costs more, maybe account 9 11?
Good luck.
DHG
It seems to me that there is so much area up inside the engine for the old oil to cling to, that it would be more reasonable to wait until the engine is almost cold to allow time for more of the oil to collect in the oil pan before draining. Then, it might be prudent to pour a fresh quart of oil through the engine to flush the pan itself more thoroughly.
Has anyone seen any scientifically proven evidence that oil should only be drained while hot? Hot oil is certainly messy, and also a real safety hazard.
Another example, you're facing a person -- you raise your right hand, that persons sees a left hand (from his/her perspective). Hope that clears it up a bit.
Use a 14mm socket, it's less confusing
It looks like there is some really good information there. Just thought I'd pass the word along. I found it looking at another website. Seems like some good information for those of us concerned.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
I would advise against the Racing oil, since it may be similar to Redline Oil, where its racing oil does not contain any detergents. Because many of these engines run at such a high operating temperature, the detergents may thermally break-down, and run the risk of damaging the engine.
RedLine is fine with their normal synthetic line and Mobil 1 is by far the most convenient
I hear a lot more complaints about other components failing - like automatic transmissions, front struts, CV joints, air conditioners, alternators, power steering units, fuel injection systems, and so on. Changing the oil does nothing to help the longevity of these components.
In the old days, engines were not made as well, and you would see burned out main bearings and things like that. The other parts of the car, like the 2-barrel carburetor and the three-on-the-tree tranny, were not that complex.
Now, the other parts are very complex and expensive to repair. When they all start to fail, most of us get rid of the car even thought the engine is mechanically in very good shape.
Of course, I still get my oil changed every 4000 miles.
Bob
Few people (by that I mean as a percentage of car drivers) keep a car over 80,000 miles. We will hear a ton of people that do but if we look at entire population (what is ave age of all cars on the road, 8 years I think) that is normally under 100,000 miles.
Now on your second issue if you said 80% keep only to 80,000 miles. While many do that, I think that the 80% figure would be like my father who keeps to 100K then sells.
This is the one reason why I will never be able to keep a car for that many miles, no matter how religious I am about service. I can just hope that whoever buys my cars will be appreciative.
So, why NOT use it?
And, few of us that participate in this forum qualify as 'average'. My car is at 115,000 miles and looks and drives like a much newer car.
--- Bror Jace
Anyone ever heard of this before? Does it work?
Thanks.
-ss4
Also, for those who use this type of pump, do you change your oil the "old fashioned way" at some interval just to make sure the oil at the very bottom of the pan gets picked up? Any problem with the oil viscosity regarding the pump being able to handle it?
Thanks for any responses.
Mike
That is a big detail about draining oil, plus doing it while hot helps even more.
I would NOT recommend pumping out engine oil unless there really just is no other way (like a boat motor probably,,,I can see that being tough to drain out from the bottom,,,,glug glug)
Just wondering.