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oil changes
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Comments
I suggest reading your owners manual on when to check the oil (cold engine or hot engine), and follow that advice. And consider one other point: on an extended trip, in which you purchase several tanks of gas, would you wait for the engine to cool to check the oil?
As for changing the oil, I prefer to start with a fully heated engine, allow it to cool for maybe an hour (just so I don't get scalded), then change the oil. I have nothing to base this on but my own common sense, which I hope is pretty good. I think the oil flows better and is far more likely to carry the bulk of the contamination in the system out with it if the oil is still warm and has not been standing for a while and no settling has occured (if settling in fact occurs, which I do not really know). In any case, it only takes about a minute for the bulk of the oil to return to the pan when the engine is turned off. A 30 minute wait should be more than adequate to get most of the old stuff out (IMHO).
My first two cars, a 70 Dodge and a 76 Plymouth, both died of engine failure largely due to the fact that at age 16 to 21 years, I had no clue how to maintain a car. I am married to a great wife who happens to have a father who retired from the Air Force where he maintained jets. He knows a few things about cars too and taught me a lot. I've learned a few things on my own too.
He recommended 5,000-mile oil change intervals and replace the filter every time. I used Havoline oil and Fram filters for years, but changed to Castrol and Motorcraft or AC filters in 1996 when I bought the first (and last) minivan. At the same time I switched to 3,000-mile oil and filter change intervals. Before the big switch, a 76 Mercury, 83 Honda, 85 Buick, 85 Ford, and a 88 Ford all started using some oil by the time they hit 50,000 miles. Some used a half quart between oil changes, some as much as two quarts. Not a lot, I know, but read on.
One other thing, usually by 100,000 miles, with one exception, fuel efficiency started to fall off and power seemed to start going away. Cars I owned became less enjoyable to drive, particularly at freeway speeds.
After making my change, a 92 Ford (still own with 136,000 miles), a 93 Ford (96,000 miles when traded), and a 96 Ford (108,000 miles when traded) all operated flawlessly throughout the time I owned them, and not once did I have to add oil to any of them. In fact, only one of them used any oil at all, and it was generally about a half-quart low when I changed the oil.
Subjective, I realize, and I can't tell you whether the change in oil and filter brands did the trick or the change in frequency, but I see a trend enough to tell me I am on a reasonable track. What I need out of my cars are two things: longevity and durability. Afterall, what good is an old car if it doesn't run worth a damn.
Take all of this for what it is worth--my experience in owning cars since 1979.
I don't have any personal experience with the Amsoil bypass filter... a few friends have used them and their cars/trucks lasted longer than they wanted to drive them.
OPERA HOUSE
A local group here in OKLAHOMA has developed a process to recycle 100% of a used tire. State is assisting in funding to build a full size plant to develope this process and hoping to be nation wide in 4-5 years.
I remember an article about using tire chips in asphalt to increase road life over 50%. The road building association fought a law tooth and nail to require something like 10% of new roads to have rubber chips in them. Never got passed. I think it stated that if 100% of road repair used then, only 30% of used tires each year would be used. Good luck.
Why test fate? do your changes for yourself, and buy the oil on sale in case lots. Walmart and Kmart house brand filters are hard to beat, and they are very economical.
The Amsoil filter looks VERY robust.I got an info packet from an Amsoil dealer that had great color brochures on all their products.Check under "amsoil" on eBay to find a dealer and ask for the "prospective dealer" package(it's free).
It will also give the preferred customer,dealer, and msrp's of all their products.(Although you can buy their 5W-30 or 10W-30 for About $4.50 a quart postpaid on eBay)!
usual disclaimers,etc.
My kit was purchased from J.C. Whitney many years ago when I was living in an isolated rural area, and I have no recollection of the brand name. It seemed like a great idea for a while, but as I indicated, I got concerned about rate of delivery of pumped oil, hose breaks, pressure drops, dry start ups, you name it. I removed it thinking that my engine would appreciate it!
www.summitracing.com
--- Bror Jace
I also worried about reliability of the systemand flow restrictions. Lets face it these add on systems are not tested for millions of miles on each different engine. Hey - thats just me. Not saying I am right.
adc100,Another consideration:the amsoil unit calls for about $70 per year in filters alone.I drive a vehicle about 12K miles yearly.I can buy a lot of new oil(synth or dino) and filters (STech or Mobil 1) for that kind of $$ and not worry about all the extra plumbing and it's inherent problems.