Stump The Technicians--Contest Rules Are Here!

kik1

The stalling and not starting,,on the 3.8L
Lumina,
was traced to a faulty power wire to the computer.
A New wire was run, started right up, worked good ever since,, thanks for the input....

dpwestlake

Was it the trunk light switch?

opera_house_wk

I will give you the answer to this one shortly. This was a problem that scared me to death because I could have injured someone. I sent this into the highway safety guys but never heard anything.

I was leaving a parking lot in my 92 Explorer and was stopped in front of a sidewalk waiting for a opening in traffic. As most people do, my foot was only lightly on the brake. All at once, the engine reved and the car lurched forward. I managed to slam my foot on the brake after the car had moved a few feet. I felt lucky that no one was in front of me. I was startled and assumed that I had been inattentive and let my foot slip on the gas. Then at the next stoplight it happened again. From then on it was a hard foot on the brake at every stop. I had to make a stop at a store before I went home.

When I went to start the car, I found out what the problem was. Sounds like something you would see on 60 Minutes with the cruise control problem. I know a cop would never believe the story.

bobistheoilguy

The murcury switches on the truck/hood lights had to be causing the batteries to drain while in transit. These would have to be the most inclined units on the trailer.

bob

opera_house_wk

The car would not start the next time I got in it. The stamped sheet metal battery connector had cracked and caused an intermitant connection. The ECM was being reset and through a software fault, thought the engine was just being started. The idle air control valve would open fully and the engine rpm would go up to 2K before settling down.

This should be a warning to every one to make good electrical connections and when you go out for a test drive, tighten the battery connections. I know I used to just twist them on when I went out for a test drive in the middle of a repair.

Where is everyone?

a_l_hubcaps

Sorry for the delayed response, I'm not in the habit of checking the M&R board and I kinda forgot I posted the question :-P Well dpwestlake got it right on, it was the mercury switch in the trunk light, which was too sensitive and was leaving the light on in the certain cars that were placed in the inclined-forward position on the truck. Good job.

-Andrew L

Kirstie_H

Pre-pre-pre-reminder: Would LOVE it if some of you guys could make it to Wednesday's Chat on this same topic. Don't worry, we'll spam you with promos next week

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

worgle

I have a 1985 Lincoln Town Car, with a 302 v-8 (yes, its the "old Mustang engine", and it only puts out 150 horsepower, which may be why I am often tempted to push this thing up steep hills...However, my problem is not with the horsepower,or lack there of. I am replacing a fuel filter in the vehicle about every four months. And every time I have it changed, it is plugged up, and hard to blow thru. The fuel filter is mounted on the fuel rail on the right side. When its time to change the fuel filter, the car lets me know by running like a John Deer Tractor. When I have the filter changed, everything is fine for about another four months, until it again starts running like a John Deere Tractor. It could have a fuel pump going out (The car has between 117,000 miles on it, or 217,000, depending upon whether I choose to believe the mileage on the odometer when I bought it (97,000-3 years ago) It could have a hole in the fuel sock. It could have NO fuel sock, as the previous owner, who was the original owner, was somewhat lax on maintenance. Someone suggested the computer may be going out,; but does the computer going out plug up the fuel filter? Maybe it was driven by Rod Sterling in the Twilight Zone......

Mr_Shiftright

Well, now, if, in fact, for SURE, every time you simply change the fuel filter, the car runs better, then we need to cut open one of those old filters and take a look. I'd also be tempted to drain some fuel out of your gas tank and look at that sample as well.

Or, you can just insert a really massive fuel filter....a BIG GULP...that will take years to fill up!

alcan

Do it right. Have the gas tank drained, dropped, and inspected. Chances are it was run low on gas regularly before you acquired it and the tank's rusting inside.

opera_house_wk

and leave as much gas in as possible. Then I shake the filter for 10 seconds and blow out the contents opposite the normal flow direction into a glass. Most filters today will collect a lot of black from the fuel pump brushes. What I look for is water. Even in tanks with 150K, I have never seen sediment except when there is a leak in the tank which allows water to get in. Next time, I bet you will find water in the filter. On my carberated 302 pickup, I installed an additional clear plastic filter just before the fuel pump. I finally gave up and dropped the tank. There were pin holes in the top and water would leak from the bed. Harder to believe in a Lincoln unless you are getting some really bad gas or you have a leak or bad clamp in the filler.

swschrad

but instead of pinholes, they can get cracks. it's a noticeable labor bill indeed, but there's something wrong in there, and I agree it's time to have the tank dropped and the system inspected... including the hose pack, there could have been an Additive From Hell used back there and it could be plastic from the fuel hoses munging up the new filters as well. that would be way dangerous to have missed in a ten-second inspection.

mackabee

Before I plunk down a couple of hundred on a new/rebuilt distributor. Bought a trade in for my youngest boy to drive back and forth to school and part time job. A 1987 Nissan Stanza 4 door sedan. Car had 120,000 miles. Bought last day of December 2001. Car has about 1500 miles more on it now. Changed oil, ran fine for about a month. First problem, kid left lights on and discharged battery completely. Battery completely dead, replaced battery. Month later car starts acting up, starts fine but idles for a few minutes then dies. Ran the car around the block and it would stall on me. Would start right away initially than gradually it would take a few crankings before it start again. Took in to local repair shop (not a dealer but a local chain that sells tires) explained problem, asked them to tune it up also and diagnose. Car was "tuned" and TPS (throttle position sensor) replaced. Total bill $250.00. car ran ok for about two weeks and problem started again. Don't trust repair shop any longer. I replaced the spark plug wires as the ones on there (after market) kept coming loose. New wires helped for a couple of days, then car started doing the same thing. Start ok, then stall. Talked to mechanics at my dealership and some recommended fuel filter, replacement, cold start injector check, etc. Did the cheapest and easiest. Replaced fuel filter. Fuel on old filter came out looking blackish. Car will crank but will not start. Checked spark from ignitor to distributor OK, still won't start. My 88 MR2 had the no start symptoms but would start when pushed. This one is auto so can't push to start. I hate to put more money into this sled, I tried to convince my son to save up some more money to buy at least a 4-5k Honda or Toyota but he didn't want to wait. We got this sled for 800.00 but have already spent over $300.00 more and are looking at the prospect of another $200.00 at least to get it running.

: )
Mackabee

mackabee

Just got home and checked spark from spark plug wires, spark is there. So I have sparks all over but still won't start. Don't smell fuel at all!

: )

Mackabee

alcan

Might be the fuel pump or it's wiring. Has fuel pressure been checked?

swschrad

rule: you can polish the vanity mirror and it might appear driveability issues are resolved... for the same period of time that all the other repairs have "fixed" the problem. moral: you haven't found the biggest problem yet. your "it all worked for only two days" proves that.

there is definitely a fuel issue, you said so yourself. there should NEVER be off-color fuel at the engine, let alone black. have you tested fuel pressure yet to see if it's at spec? what condition are the fuel hoses in, the black crud could be from incompatible additives that have been rotting the rubber. use a clear hose into the gas tank, bend the free end over and pinch it shut to make a no-danger siphon, pull it out and dump the gas into a clean glass container... is the tankful clean, full of gobs of water or other slop, or is that a black off-color mess, too?

if the tankful is a mess, the old gas has to be recycled someplace and the tank needs at least removal and steam-cleaning and careful drying, then everything forward needs cleaning or replacement up to the engine. when you drop the tank, and pull the pump/gauge assembly, check the sock at the end for gunkup... if it is, you may have to pre-emptively replace the fuel pump to insure you get all the evil out of the tank and avoid going back for a second round of work.

that's a start. for the heck of it, I would also put a new fuel filter on right now, and cut the old one open for a look-see. black slop means you need to deal with the fuel system big-time. a little darkening (filter elements can range from white thrrough yellow to a light brown depending on how they were made, and they darken from there, usually to a medium brown by the time they don't pass fuel under the right pressure) would indicate the black crud comes after the fuel filter... so the hose to the engine and maybe the regulator are suspect.

opera_house_wk

in the fuel filter. It's just the brushes wearing. Still, anytime after 150K the fuel pump is likely prone to failure. I used to take my 84 Toyota filter out, shake it with fuel in it and blow it (engine side) into a glass to see what was there. Always lots of carbon. Other vehicles, I didn't see this as much. Did have to replace fuel pump at 170K when the brushes wore out. Tank was spotless when inspected.

Fuel pumps do have mechanical wear on the gear pump and have a lower flow rate when they are older. Failure is almost always for brushes. When a new pump is installed, a new problems may be created. The higher flow rate of the new pump will cause the fuel pressure regulator to open wider and seat differently. I had stalling problems after replacing a pump, a condition I never had before. Cut open the regulator and found a bevel worn on the seat. Higher bypass flow caused the valve to stick open. Just a reminder that regulators can be a wear item.

eddieu

1993 4cyl auto with 103000 miles. Had since new.It suddenly was hard to start, then started. It ran all day OK. Later that day the same thing, hard to start, then no starting. Towed home where I changed the plugs and fuel filter. This corrected most of the problem.Except at an idle in drive or reverse the car's idle pulsed like there was a gas shortage and it was going to stall. It drove fine at all speeds except at an idle. Brought it to a repair shop where the computer read out was neg. He ran a cleaning through the engine which cleaned all fuel injection, air, internal valve parts cost $120. still acted up at an idle. He then started checking vac lines and all sensors all are working. checked computer that's OK. He must have spent 10 hours so far with no luck. Please help I love this car. Please help!!!! EDDIE

mackabee

clean the throttle body and replace the idle air control valve, same thing happened to my 92 camry at 135k miles. aic valve is about 45-60 bucks.

Mackabee

losangelesemt

Guys I have an 87 Cutlass Calais out front I've been working on. It's been having a problem with auto. trans. for few years from what I understand. Vehicle will engage in all gears fine when cold. After it's warmed up, the forward gears will not engage as they should. I've had some success giving it gas for a few seconds while in gear, (up to about 2000 RPM), and then most times forward gears will engage. Stop and take it out of drive, and attempt to engage drive once again (without RPM increase) and nothing happens. Reverse has never had a problem cold or hot.

I myself am an engine rebuilder and not much of a trans. guru. I have a few ideas but looking for some input from more knowledgable folks. Any ideas appreciated.