You probably live in Cairo, Egypt. Over here in America our streets are immaculate ! , we can get 500KM to the tank, but in Cairo, traffic sux; it is too crowded and cars get a much worse gas milage per tank because of the constant stop and go, and the stupid taxi and micro bus drivers, sorry, but you need to leave Egypt and live in somewhere with better roads and highways. Thank You,
My DIEWOOO Nubira will not shift out of Park unless I slide a razor into the "Keyhole" release next to the shift knob. I am thinking it is some kind of switch but I have no idea where to begin. Any help will be greatly appreciated.... Thanks in advance... :lemon:
In other words, When I press on the brake it should release so I can go into drive but it dont so I have to press inside the keyhole next to the shift knob.... Can anyone help me? Thanks
Probably bad brake switch. Seemed to be a common failure on certain runs of the Daewoo Nubira and Leganza. Most former Daewoo dealers stock the switch. Simple to replace. BTW do your brake lights work correctly? Probably not, so take care driving and use hand signals out the window and don't drive at night. Hopefully the rest of the drivers on the road will remember what the hand signals mean.
I didn't have the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor hooked up properly. Hooked 'em up and it "roared" back to life. After replacing the entire upper end of the motor, hoses, belts, gaskets, and wires at 85K. If anyone has questions about this procedure email me or post here. I gave all the parts contacts I used (they are hard to come by) in a message I posted and it was removed. There are a limited number of sources. There is no repair manual for the '01 Leganza, but the Isuzu Rodeo manual works for engine info for the 2.2L engine. Thanks to the internet my Deadwoo is alive again
Yes it is. The switch has a little plunger on it that is activated by the brake pedal movement. There is a different switch part number depending on whether or not you have cruise control. So make sure you have the option list and maybe the vin number available when you order the part.
My daewoo lanos is loosing transmission fluid, but the problem is which that is a big problem. There are no loose lines and it isn't leaking anywhere, could someone please help.
I just recently got a 2001 Daewoo Lanus and the radio wont turn on. theres a red light that flashes, but the radio wont turn on. i dont know if it simply doesnt work or theres something i need to do to turn it on. Any help is appriciated.
Make sure the cam position sensor and the crank shaft position sensors are hooked up properly. The car will not start if they are not. The cam position sensor wire comes from the bundle of wires that go to the fuel rail. It plugs into the socket on the cam position sensor under the cover for the spark plug wires right behind the timing belt between the two cam shaft pullys. The crank shaft position sensor wire comes from the right side of the motor (if you face the belts). It ie the long wire that runs up over the timing belt cover/valve cover. It plugs into a socket under the fuel rail box just above the alternator. You may have to pop the fuel rail out again to get at it. These two wires were my final obstacle, the car runs great now. If these are hooked up properly and the car still doesn't start let me know.
thanks for the reply, I went back and made sure that the position sensors were hooked up and they were. I even disconneted them and reconnected them. The car sound like it wants to start but cranks twice then sputters until dead. Is there anything else you could think of.
jessica4, the radio is protected by an anti-theft mechanism. The same thing happened to me when I had to replace the battery cables on my Nubira.
Look through the owners manual and other things you received with your car. Try to find a credit card-sized piece of white plastic that says "DAEWOO Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card". On the card is a 4-digit code which you will type in using the memory buttons on the front of your stereo.
I forget the exact procedure but you should be able to get it in a couple of tries.
The only other sensor that you had to unhook was the MAP sensor. It goes from the underside of the middle of the fuel rail to the base of the throttle body. It sounds like a fuel problem if it sputters and shuts off. Make sure the fuel pressure at the fuel rail is between 41 and 53 lbs of pressure with a tester. If it is, maybe you have clogged injectors. Is the firing order correctly set up? It is 1-4-2-3 on the coil pack (1 being the end closest to the fire wall) and 1-2-3-4 on the head from the timing belt end to the coil pack end.
Could be alignment, could be a bad tire, could be worn bushings. Aside from a tire being really whacked out, which you should feel all the time, a good alignment shop with all the equipment for a proper alignment will be able to tell if the bushings are worn.
Make sure the alignment place actually does suspension work also and has all the load weights for the alignment.
thanks for the tip, I just went back and checked the whole fuel rail and all the connectors and clips are connected. I also checked the spark plug wires, and they were set up right. I appreciate all your help but I think I'm going to send it to the local shop now that all the expensive work is done.
I'm sorry you're still having that problem. You're right though, all the expensive work is done. Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon. I had to get ours back on the road, we owe $4,000 still on a very nice condition car ('01 w/85K) that's worth about $1000 when it's running. I think we bought the last one sold in Massachusetts. Oh well, it's a good thing I'm handy. Good luck.
the mechanic called back with really bad news. The camshaft snapped in two, luckily the head still had compression so the valves are good. I was just wondering if you know of any good parts stores I could find a new intake and exhaust camshaft?
I bought a totally rebuilt head from a company on e-bay. They may sell the parts. I would mention the name but this site will remove the message I post if it gives specific referals and phone numbers. The engine is the same as in a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 2.2L. You should be able to get parts from an Isuzu Dealer. I've found also that these Daewoos are starting to show up in Junk Yards. I know of a few in my area. I could even probably get you the part and ship it to you. E-mail me at Precision3872@aol.com, I'll give you some specific info...
I have a 2001 Leganza w/34k miles and recently when I filled up with gas(about 3/4 tank worth) it began to idle worse and then died completely. Have changed the fuel filter, and it seems to be trying to idle a bit longer. I wonder if the tank of gas was bad somehow? No problems before the fill up. Any ideas about what I should do? I am having injectors cleaned tommorrow, and a fuel pump but the pump has pressure. Thanks for any help..
I have a Lanos 2000, and there is a problem in the engine start where the engine needs very long time to start and many times it failed to start. after make a connection between the (-) wire of the crank position sensor and (-) of the battery or between the (+) wire of the crank position sensor with (-) of the battery the engine start. Many changed had been made (changing the crank position sensor)
1)Timing belt, tensioner, and water pump were replaced at 30k miles. I'm now at 60k; do I "need" to replace belt & tensioner again (I've read posts that it's a MUST at 60k), or...?
2)Heavy leak into passenger footwell from AC. Likely cause? Estimated repair cost? AC working fine, but Lake Lanos a hassle for my passenger.
As of July GM Daewoo has all parts available to order online at www.daewoous.com A complete online catalog with all illustrations is included. All you have to do is create a password and sign in . Hope this is a help to all, I know it is to me.
I read through all the posts and some were really helpful, but I hope there is something recent on my problem. My 2000 Leganza has been doing crazy stuff and no one seems to find a solution. About once a week or so, it won't crank. Before the battery goes dead, the radio goes on and off depending on whether you are accelerating or braking. The battery seems super weak if I run too many things (air conditioner, plug in my cell phone, let down windows, operate sunroof, etc.). I can usually tell how it sounds if it is not going to crank next time. We have replace 2 batteries and nothing seems to work. We are told the alternator is fine, but no one can help us. Oh, yea, sometimes, all the controls will go wacky however, if I turn the radio off or accelerate, they go back to normal This is the first big problem we have had, otherwise, no big troubles. This is major to me though because it strands me when I least expect it.
Also, there is a little drip from the air conditioner occassionally, but it drips on the drivers side.
Somebody, anybody, please HELP!
Also, does anyone know where I can find someone to service the daewoos here in the south as everyone we call won't touch it. I am in Montgomery Alabama, but will travel to surrounding states if necessary.
Odd electrical symptoms in multiple systems are almost always caused by a bad ground. Could be corroded due to not having the a/c drain hose problem fixed.
Either buy the dealer service manual for the car or find one of the online service information subscriptions and check the locations and condition of ALL electrical grounds. There are some under the dash, some under the front and rear seats, trunk, under the hood, etc.
I just wanted to send out a big fat thank you! I just replaced the battery in my car,,, well, I'm sure you've heard the story by now. but this saved me so much trouble! You are a life saver! thank you a million times over!
Hi all! This is my first post here after buying a 2001 Nubira in the UK. I'm hoping that someone will be able to help with a problem I have with it.
Recently I've found that when I brake at slow speeds I get a shuddering through the brake pedal, it feels like the ABS kicking in. I took it to a local garage who gave it a brake inspection and said that the front discs were warped and needed replacing. They replaced these but the problems was still there afterwards. I took it back in and they cleaned all the ABS sensors etc, but the problems still persists!
Has anyone else experienced anything like this? The only option now seems to be a diagnostics test to see whether it is an electrical problem. Although I7m guessing this will be an expensive solution.
If anyone out there has any experience/advice/opinion, I7d be really grateful for your thoughts. Thanks in advance, Al
1. When I turn on the headlights the instrument lights do not go on. Also, if I leave the head lights on by accident, the "headlights on" alarm does not sound. These seem to be a related problem. Does anybody know what I can do about it?
2. I had a dead battery and at first could not remember my security code. After 3 months I remembered the security code. Now the radio goes on, but the equalizer appears to be locked up and no sound comes out of the speakers. Any suggestions?
Actually, I found the correct site now and I think I know what the problem with the link is. There is a period after ".com" which is included in the link. That period doesn't belong there. The correct link is www.daewoous.com
I've got the same problem with my abs operating at low speed. I took mine to a garage for a diagnostic. Daewoo told me that the tone wheel was broken. Sounds strange to me, but there you go. let me know how you get on and i'll do like wise.
Hi, I have lanos 2002, it won't start every time. Sometimes it needs dozen tries. I went several times to daewoo service and they don't know what is it. Diagnostic computer said everything is ok, it didn't report any defect
Well combustion needs air, fuel, spark. assuming there is no sensor problems that would be reported by the computer. 1. Make sure your air filter is not clogged, also check the throttle body probably needs cleaning. 2. Check that there is a spark in each of the spark plug cables. 3. Check fuel system (fuel pump, filter, check fuel pressure, clean fuel injectors). 4. mechanical problem with the starter. My first guess would be something with the fuel system, i.e. point 3. since misfires normally show up on the computer, I would suspect that fuel is not getting easily to the engine in the first place.
When I put the blower (fan heater) at position 2 or more, the fuel gauge go down to empty. And sometimes whitout the fan working, when I accelerate quickly above 60 MPH, the fuel gauge go down too.
The fuel gauge come back to his position only when I restart the car without the fan.
Can someone please tell me for a resource where I can find how to line up the marks on the gears for timing belt. I am putting the engine back together today and forgot to mark it when taking it apart. Any online subscription site or manual purchase would be OK. as long as I know I can get the answer quickly.
We have a very reliable mechanic - and a mess on our hands. Our Leganza's timing belt broke. Took it in for fix and learned that EVERYTHING had died! Water pump, bent valves... on and on. Our mechanic spent weeks getting parts and getting it back together again - and we got it 40 miles before it died. Again. It's currently in the shop with no signs of life. Has anybody else experienced such a global meltdown? We've had lots of different makes and models of cars and NONE has been such a disaster.
Problem: 2000 Nubira CDX Wagon, bought new 9/2001 in Twin Falls, ID. Now has 58,500 miles. @ 16,950 mi CEL came on and engine idled too high and tranny shifted hard from P to Drive: TPS replaced (warranty). @ 19,110 mi same symptoms and problem (now 11/2002 and no help from Daewoo Tech Support); problem eventually resolved itself. @ 22,670 mi same story. GM dealer in Boise couldn't fix, problem resolved itself again (gradually tranny would get better, engine revs back to normal, and eventually CEL went out). @ 34,433 (now 01/2004) SAME PROBLEM! GM dealer diagnosed TPS again, replaced under warranty. Problem solved for about 2 WEEKS! @ 34,919 you guessed it! Dealer replaced throttle body & gasket (warranty). Said "intermittent throttle body shaft binds, remove and replace t-body." This seemed to do the trick. @ 47,367 CEL on again but no other symptoms. Local mech couldn't find any problem. @ 54,029 (now 03/2005) CEL again (like a recurring nightmare!). GM dealer said "sensor A-heated lambda (?), O-2 sensor circuit". Cost me $413 to R&R. Dealer also checked Camshaft Position Sensor per recall, said OK and did not replace.
My goal was to get it running and get rid of it. CEL problem reappeared two months ago but again resolved itself and has been okay for last four weeks, no problems. Sold it last week for $4K, included full disclosure of warranty work and O-2 sensor replacement. THE DAY AFTER THE BUYER PAID AND TOOK THE CAR, she called in a panic: CEL on, engine idling way too high!!!!! Told her I would take care of getting it fixed at my expense.
HELP!! What can the problem be? GM dealer has been very good but can't seem to solve the problem. Is the car still under any warranty: < 60,000 miles, < 5 years? BTW, I didn't know about this website and the excellent forum until last Friday. I read all 354 posts but can't seem to find anything on point. Also, is the "timing belt - tensionner - rollers - water pump" repair covered under warranty? I never knew there was a problem with them, never had them replaced. Same thing with the A/C drain hose/wet floor problem -- is that Nubira too or just Lanos & Leganza? Time is of the essence, as the buyer is bringing the car overy tonight for me to take it to the dealer tomorrow (dealer will only cover repair work done < 12 months ago if it's still in my name).
If your mechanic charged $4000 for the repair then he is a thief. You can get a complete engine head from ebay for $300 from a Cylinder head company called CCH.
I would suspect the high idling is due to a sensor that is related to air flow. Mass flow sensor, Map sensor. And yes you need to do the timing belt service ASAP. at 54K miles is pushing it. The recommended interval is 55K miles, but I have heard of it failing earlier. What goes bad is the tensioner then the water pump. So you need to replace or advise the owner to replace the timing belt, tensioner, rollers, water pump. And yes Daewoo should cover those under warranty if < 60K. If the maintenance is done properly, these cars can go for a very long time. I have already seen ones with over 200K miles.
Did you ever figure out how to fix the problem? We are having the same promblem now. We lined it up but it won't start. Timing is off somhow. Can you help us????
Took the Woo to GM dealer on 9/13. They couldn't find anything wrong (the CEL had gone out, of course). I had them do a fuel injector cleaning and new fuel filter; the tech said clogged filter was probably the culprit. I asked her about replacing the tensionner/ timing belt/ rollers under warranty. She said Daewoo will not pay for warranty repair if the parts haven't failed. They wanted to charge me $150 just to pull the timing belt cover and check it out. I opted not to, but told the buyer they really need to be alert to any suspicious sound coming from engine compartment, could be the timing belt deteriorating. Buyers seemed OK with that. Hopefully, I've seen the LAST of the Woo.
Comments
thanx chris
Thank You,
Hisham ElBanhawy.
:lemon:
any help would be appreciated,
Thanks,
Nik
thanks again,
Nik
Could this be a indication it needs an alignment also?
Bekah
Look through the owners manual and other things you received with your car. Try to find a credit card-sized piece of white plastic that says "DAEWOO Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card". On the card is a 4-digit code which you will type in using the memory buttons on the front of your stereo.
I forget the exact procedure but you should be able to get it in a couple of tries.
Good luck!
bekah
Marilyn
Aside from a tire being really whacked out, which you should feel all the time, a good alignment shop with all the equipment for a proper alignment will be able to tell if the bushings are worn.
Make sure the alignment place actually does suspension work also and has all the load weights for the alignment.
thanks,
Nik
I'm sorry you're still having that problem. You're right though, all the expensive work is done. Hopefully you can get it back on the road soon. I had to get ours back on the road, we owe $4,000 still on a very nice condition car ('01 w/85K) that's worth about $1000 when it's running. I think we bought the last one sold in Massachusetts. Oh well, it's a good thing I'm handy. Good luck.
--Jim
thanks,
Nik
I bought a totally rebuilt head from a company on e-bay. They may sell the parts. I would mention the name but this site will remove the message I post if it gives specific referals and phone numbers. The engine is the same as in a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 2.2L. You should be able to get parts from an Isuzu Dealer. I've found also that these Daewoos are starting to show up in Junk Yards. I know of a few in my area. I could even probably get you the part and ship it to you. E-mail me at Precision3872@aol.com, I'll give you some specific info...
--Jim
I am having injectors cleaned tommorrow, and a fuel pump but the pump has pressure.
Thanks for any help..
2)Heavy leak into passenger footwell from AC. Likely cause? Estimated repair cost? AC working fine, but Lake Lanos a hassle for my passenger.
2. The AC drain hose is clogged with debris, causes water to leak into car.
The drain hose should be accessible from under the dashboard.
All you have to do is create a password and sign in .
Hope this is a help to all, I know it is to me.
Also, there is a little drip from the air conditioner occassionally, but it drips on the drivers side.
Somebody, anybody, please HELP!
Also, does anyone know where I can find someone to service the daewoos here in the south as everyone we call won't touch it. I am in Montgomery Alabama, but will travel to surrounding states if necessary.
Thanks
Either buy the dealer service manual for the car or find one of the online service information subscriptions and check the locations and condition of ALL electrical grounds. There are some under the dash, some under the front and rear seats, trunk, under the hood, etc.
Recently I've found that when I brake at slow speeds I get a shuddering through the brake pedal, it feels like the ABS kicking in. I took it to a local garage who gave it a brake inspection and said that the front discs were warped and needed replacing. They replaced these but the problems was still there afterwards. I took it back in and they cleaned all the ABS sensors etc, but the problems still persists!
Has anyone else experienced anything like this? The only option now seems to be a diagnostics test to see whether it is an electrical problem. Although I7m guessing this will be an expensive solution.
If anyone out there has any experience/advice/opinion, I7d be really grateful for your thoughts.
Thanks in advance,
Al
1. When I turn on the headlights the instrument lights do not go on. Also, if I leave the head lights on by accident, the "headlights on" alarm does not sound. These seem to be a related problem. Does anybody know what I can do about it?
2. I had a dead battery and at first could not remember my security code. After 3 months I remembered the security code. Now the radio goes on, but the equalizer appears to be locked up and no sound comes out of the speakers. Any suggestions?
DEW
I have lanos 2002, it won't start every time. Sometimes it needs dozen tries. I went several times to daewoo service and they don't know what is it. Diagnostic computer said everything is ok, it didn't report any defect
1. Make sure your air filter is not clogged, also check the throttle body probably needs cleaning.
2. Check that there is a spark in each of the spark plug cables.
3. Check fuel system (fuel pump, filter, check fuel pressure, clean fuel injectors).
4. mechanical problem with the starter.
My first guess would be something with the fuel system, i.e. point 3.
since misfires normally show up on the computer, I would suspect that fuel is not getting easily to the engine in the first place.
When I put the blower (fan heater) at position 2 or more, the fuel gauge go down to empty. And sometimes whitout the fan working, when I accelerate quickly above 60 MPH, the fuel gauge go down too.
The fuel gauge come back to his position only when I restart the car without the fan.
Any suggestions? :confuse:
Qamar
My goal was to get it running and get rid of it. CEL problem reappeared two months ago but again resolved itself and has been okay for last four weeks, no problems. Sold it last week for $4K, included full disclosure of warranty work and O-2 sensor replacement. THE DAY AFTER THE BUYER PAID AND TOOK THE CAR, she called in a panic: CEL on, engine idling way too high!!!!! Told her I would take care of getting it fixed at my expense.
HELP!! What can the problem be? GM dealer has been very good but can't seem to solve the problem. Is the car still under any warranty: < 60,000 miles, < 5 years? BTW, I didn't know about this website and the excellent forum until last Friday. I read all 354 posts but can't seem to find anything on point. Also, is the "timing belt - tensionner - rollers - water pump" repair covered under warranty? I never knew there was a problem with them, never had them replaced. Same thing with the A/C drain hose/wet floor problem -- is that Nubira too or just Lanos & Leganza? Time is of the essence, as the buyer is bringing the car overy tonight for me to take it to the dealer tomorrow (dealer will only cover repair work done < 12 months ago if it's still in my name).
And yes you need to do the timing belt service ASAP. at 54K miles is pushing it.
The recommended interval is 55K miles, but I have heard of it failing earlier. What goes bad is the tensioner then the water pump. So you need to replace or advise the owner to replace the timing belt, tensioner, rollers, water pump.
And yes Daewoo should cover those under warranty if < 60K.
If the maintenance is done properly, these cars can go for a very long time. I have already seen ones with over 200K miles.