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Daewoo Maintenance and Repair

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    markfitzmarkfitz Member Posts: 5
    I'm changing the timing belt on my 99 Daewoo Lanos, and have everything in place, but when I wind the pulleys, the belt gradually slips off. To me, this suggests at least one of the pulleys is at an angle pushing the belt off. All the pulleys are fastened down tight. The tensioner is attached to the coolant pump, I was able to get the belt on without adjusting this, by removing one of the other pulleys, then using that pulley as the tensioner, as a mechanic friend of mine said if you move the coolant pump, it's likely to rupture the seal. I did as he suggested, and remove a different pulley. Everything's back in place, the car even fires up, but within seconds, you can hear the edge of the belt rub against the plastic cover.

    Any ideas how to correct this?

    Thanks,

    Mark
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    daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    Mark:

    Having changed many timing belts, although my car is a Leganza, I would suggest this:

    When changing any timing belt, replace all pulleys, tensioner and water pump.

    Make sure new pulleys are not narrower than the belt. (I have purchased kits which had a narrow pulley that would ruin a new belt, fast).

    I'm thinking that at least one of these items has worn bearings which cause it to run out of line.

    These parts can be expensive, but so are new valves, when the belt goes.

    Sometimes, I find a reasonable price on the internet and then take a printout to auto parts stores until I find one that will match the price.

    Hope this helps you. Jim.
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    rodersroders Member Posts: 1
    Hay Mark : I am working on a Lagonza can you tell me which cam belt gear goes in front and which goes to the back . I had a valve job done and now I cant get the car running . I think the cams were put back in the head the wrong way.. I put a new belt and tentioner kit on mine and the idler pullies had a lip on both one going outward and the other inward esentially guidding the belt . that was my origional problem one of the pully bearings failed and tore the belt up
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    azergsazergs Member Posts: 1
    were did u get the plug for behind the water pump
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    roninodessaroninodessa Member Posts: 2
    i had one at the shop, but any nut and bolt supply should have a stainless steel one.
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    adzbatcheloradzbatchelor Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2011
    Hi i Have a Daewoo Lanos it is Manual. my car runs perfectly for about 5-10 minutes, then it starts chugging like its goin to stall and when i press the pedal drive there is no power it sounds loike there is a blocked exhaust.. i went to get it repaired so they changed my fuel pump and also cadilac converter. i did not fix my problem, someone said it maybe running on 2 cylenders at times and is not burning the fuel that it dumps causing the loss of power.at night when i does it i continue to chug home when i look under the car the converter is red hot.Please can somebody help.
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    daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    If your car is misfiring, your check engine light should be on. A scanner should tell you which cylinder(s) it is.

    The problem should have been diagnosed and fixed before driving with a new converter.

    A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.

    A fuel pressure test should have been made before changing the fuel pump. It is a simple test and all mechanics should be able to do it.

    There may be more than one code (problem) registered in the computer. Have it scanned for clues to the problem before making any more expensive repairs.
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    The problem should have been diagnosed and fixed before driving with a new converter.

    A misfiring engine will ruin your new catalytic converter.


    Daewoocrazys right on both. When a cylinder misfires, the unburnt fuel is dumped into the exhaust, then on to the catalytic converter. Once there, it burns, raising the temperature of the cat and ruining it. And it doesn't take long for that to happen.

    I'm really surprised his CEL (check engine light) wasn't on.
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    emba471emba471 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I recently inherited a 2002 Daewoo Leganza with 110K miles. I am seeking advice on parts suppliers and also reputable mechanics (if any). I live in the Raleigh, NC area. I have a feeling that the car needs a new CV joint on the driver side, and I would like to have the timing belt inspected. Thanks for any help/guidance with this.
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    skamerskamer Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
    I have a phone # that might help with parts. I called it to find out about a recall to see if my car had been serviced. He told me that they have every part you would need from the inside interior to the outside. Moters and all. The # is 1-877-362-1234 or -310-884-3364 Hope this helps.
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    skamerskamer Member Posts: 2
    I just had my air compressor and cooling fan replaced. Drove it to work the next day (about 5 miles) left work and got 2 block down the road, and it just died on me. It wouldn't start back up. It was cranking over fine. Poped the hood and there was oil coming out of the top of motor on the right side by the spark plugs. There was no oil on my motor before i took it to be fixed. What all do you need to remove in order to get to the air compressor. Any idea's for me. Please.
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    faris_meefaris_mee Member Posts: 1
    I read here: link title

    ....that all daewoo models are not compatible at all with ethanol based fuel. Is that so? What are my fuel options for a 1995 Daewoo ceilo? Will the ethanol e.g. E10 harm the engine?
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    pastorbobpastorbob Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Leganza and have had the radiator checked, replaced the thermostat and the housing. I can sit in the driveway for hours and it runs great, I put in in drive go 1-2 miles and it overheats. I replaced the engine when the other one blew at 79K, this one has 49K on it. I drove it over 250 miles then it decided to start overheating! What is wrong?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think that info is correct---Daewoo GM doesn't recommend e10.

    See here:

    http://www.onlinemechanical.net/ethanol-E10.html
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    yesididyesidid Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Leganza with only 49,000 has been running great since getting head gasket job. Timing belt was checked and is new. Summer is here and have been running ac and all is well, but I noticed when trying to conserve gas and not use A.C. at night - car still seem extrememly hot, warm air coming thorugh vents. A "frilend" pushed the button next to green a.c. switch to make it cooler - and it did. But that evening as I backed out of parking space, and turned headlights on, all the lights on dash lit up and car cut off. And all the gauiges went crazy, gas read full, temp. sky high, etc. - but actually gas was only 1/4 tank and enging wasn't hot. Water and oil, etc. all checked ok levels. Car crank and drove a few times more, but after acouple of days, lights wouldn't come on and car began losing power and all those lights on dash came on, gauges crazy, etc. Now, it only turns over, won't completly start. Oh, and before that when it did start after sitting awhile, engine sounded great, but when I put foot on brake or put in reverse it cuts off. I have no idea and am still paying for the head gasket job. I have been catching buses for 7 years and finally got a car. Yes, I know...I actually bought this daewoo. Oh, and when I first got it, I had no brake lights so I had to replace the thing under the brake pedal. Do you think any of this is related? My roomate says he thinks it is the fuel pump or the relay/safety cutoff switch. Any clues? Very mluch appreciated. I just don't want to start buying and replacing parts using the method of elimination to figure out problem. Should I take it in for and pay the $75.00 diagnostic fee and go from there? It all seems so vague. Oh, and I'm bad about running with less than a quarter tank of gas and on "E" too long and one guy said that could have caused it?
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    daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    I would have the alternator checked by a competent mechanic (not auto parts store). I would do this, first.

    If someone in your area has the scan-100 Daewoo tool, I would have it diagnosed. This tool can also reset your idle air control valve. (Shutting down when going into reverse sounds like a problem with this control valve and it could also need cleaning, along with the throttle body). This is what I use on my Leganza and it makes a lot of difference.

    Your Leganza has an idle learn procedure, which I think might have been given before in this forum. I is very important anytime power is disconnected.

    These problems are not happening just because it is a Daewoo. Modern engine controls are just quite complicated and require a competent mechanic.

    I will follow this site for a while in case you post again.
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    streetdemon00streetdemon00 Member Posts: 1
    sounds like you have a bad heater core. thats the only reason why u would have coolent coming in the car.normally located behind the dash on passenger side.
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    raywooraywoo Member Posts: 16
    Was looking for suggestions on what to check for an A/C problem in a 2000 Daewoo Lanos.
    I have added R134A freon and brought the pressure reading into the 'Blue' good range.
    I press the 'A/C' button on the dashboard and the green light comes on, but the A/C compressor clutch does not engage.
    I have metered the plug to the clutch and it does not have 12volts present when the A/C switch is on.
    I also thought one or both of the engine fans comes on when you turn on the A/C switch, but I may be wrong about that.
    I am thinking maybe its a pressure switch, but I did add the freon and it shows is has the right pressure. How can I test the pressure switches?

    Any help appreciated.

    Thanks. :confuse:
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you can find the pressure transducer (should be near the shock tower?) and you could pull out the connector and use a jumper wire (thus bypassing the transducer's effect), that might tell you something. I don't have a wiring diagram for that car so I can't tell you how to safely use the jump wire. if you're familiar with using a volt/ohm meter, you should be able to figure this out.
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    itsmechris66itsmechris66 Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2012
    I have a 2002 Leganza CDX that snapped the timing belt and destroyed the engine. I put an engine from a 2000 Leganza SE in it. Only problem is that since the swap I get EGR flow insufficient codes that come in and clear. I have replaced the valve/sensor assembly with the one from the old car, cleaned all the passages and still the MIL comes on. Could this be a ECU program issue? Will the ECU from the 2000 work in the 2002? Any help would be greatly appreciated since emissions test is coming due.
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    itsmechris66itsmechris66 Member Posts: 2
    I agree with daewoocrazy, when the alternator goes all the instruments will act crazy and will eventually die. I had one partially go, the regulator would not work under high load (lights on) so after a while the tach would bounce around, knew it was time to charge battery. Easy check is to fully charge the battery then try to start it, if it runs good, you have confirmed the alternator is bad.
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    tanyap704tanyap704 Member Posts: 1
    mine was doing something very similar have it pressure tested mine was the water pump
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    yesididyesidid Member Posts: 2
    my friend found a wire that was not connected...not sure where. he reconnected it and it has been running perfect. also, drilled some holes in the thermostat so now I just have to watch it for overheating but so far it's doing fine, using no extra fluids of any sort, no leaks, no overheating. the a.c. is doing it's job as well. only 1 flat tire since writing the previous post. loving my little daewoo. thanks for the info., will keep for future reference. much appreciation.
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    daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    Sorry, that I just saw your post and now it is old. Here I go, anyway.

    I think the 2000 computer may not be compatible with a 2002 engine, but I see no reason not to try (except it can be a booger getting it in and out). The computer you change to would need to know the VIN number and you may not have the necessary equipment for this, but it could function without it.

    At this point, I would not suspect the computer. The computer would be the last thing I would suspect.

    I don't understand your statement "codes that come in and clear". Do you mean that after a few starts the code clears itself?

    More than one thing has to exist before this code will set. The computer is relying on readings from the MAP, speed, Decel Fuel Cutofff and IAC sensors, etc. Therefore, it would be good to know if this code had been set on the car the EGR came from.

    If it sets the code on the current car, it should also have set a freeze frame, which can be read from a good scan tool (does not have to be the Daewoo tool, but probably better than what you find at auto parts stores).

    Your replacement engine may have a defective MAP or other sensors that are affecting the EGR operation. I am thinking the MAP, IAC and TPS sensors were not changed with the engine and are all therefore suspect.

    NOW, THIS IS IMPORTANT: The code clearing allows the new EGR to relearn a new pintle position. The DTC (code) must be cleared with the ignition on and with the engine off or idling to learn the new pintle position.

    The proper scan tool will read the desired EGR setting and the actual setting, which could indicate a problem with the EGR, itself (will show on the freeze frame) and indicate trying still another used EGR valve.

    Hope this helps. Sorry I am so late.
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    andy_in_azandy_in_az Member Posts: 1
    Brake lights stopped working, changed the fuse, and bulbs. Changed the switch under the pedal. Is the switch adjustable? It seems you can set the depth of the plunger by pressing in on it.

    Anyway, brake lights still do not work, any ideas?
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    daewoocrazydaewoocrazy Member Posts: 7
    Is it possible you installed a switch that is not good? It happens. I purchased a MAP sensor once that looked new, but someone had taken it out of a car and returned it to O'Reilly for refund (they do that for shops) and it went back into circulation and of course, I got it.

    I would use a volt-ohm meter to check for continuity in both the old and the new switch. Inexpensive volt-ohm meters cost so little that everyone should have one and learn how to use it.

    I see no adjustment in the switch; it is a simple switch that should close contacts when it is out.

    Do the back-up lights work? If they do, then the ground is probably good, but I would check for a solid ground (Black wire), anyway. The rear window stop lamp has its own ground. Does it work? If it does, that would lead to suspecting the brake light ground.

    The ground for the brake lamps is below the tail lamp on the driver's side, in the trunk.
    The ground for the window center stop lamp is under the front driver's seat.

    I hope this helps. If it doesn't, please post again.
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    firebird6702firebird6702 Member Posts: 1
    1999 Leganza CDX climate controls are dead. No power replaced unit still not getting power. yet when turn on night time driving instrument lights light up but no power to the ac controls/heat. Anyone got an idea on what to do?
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    timss396timss396 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Daewoo Lanos and I do not have any 12v power going to my crank sensor any help would be greatly appreciated.
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    jcjr7jcjr7 Member Posts: 3
    Yikes, when I bought a Nubira, the coolant cap was clicking and not coming loose, and neither my mechanic or I thought to undue a radiator hose, shame on both of us!! I think the seller snookered me! After I bought the car and another mechanic broke the cap off, there was oil in coolant!! Head gasket didn't fix it, mechanic said it probably got over heated and there was a crack in the block so we got a junkyard engine. Also for daewoo owners, nubira, watch for that water pump bypass hose leaking, it appears to be the water pump leaking but its just a hose. Avai in Puerto Rico via a supplier or the local guys have a J shaped hose that will fit. Starter goes about 90,000 miles on the 2 liter nubira, it starts turning over slowly b4 it goes.
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    hpsnvhpsnv Member Posts: 5
    hard starting, cranking 3 times to start, engine lite finally came on---
    1. shows problem with coil--changed
    2. problem with O2 in block--- changed.
    3. did a fuel pressure check on original pump--- replaced with new fuel pump
    3000 miles later had same problems did a fuel pump pressure test again and it would not hold pressure.
    upon removing 3000 mile pump it was hot to the touch so it must have burnt out.
    just installed another new one (12000 miles/ 1 year warantee)
    QUESTION will it happen again or is there still something wrong
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    legalizepotlegalizepot Member Posts: 1
    My right turn signal (not always) stays on. I press lock/unlock on the remote several times and it turns off just to come back on; at no scheduled time of course. At the same time the temp gauge went up to over 3/4 on the dial when it usually shows below 1/2. I was using the Cruise Control at the time and was traveling around 70 MPH on the highway. I don't know if this helps, but also the alarm goes off by a simple 10 MPH spring breeze as well. Like I said I don't know if they are all related. Just do not want to leave a single description out in order to fully diagnose/solve the issue. Ever since the issue with the temp gauge, that particular issue has not returned. The right turn signal light issue has reoccured one other time. I have a minor length trip planned in one week so I need help with this soon please. Any questions on this please ask. To not leave anything out: When the turn signal thing happens, all the lights involved with the right side directional stay on when it happens. I replaced the right rear directional bulb but the problem persisted. I changed the 15A fuse as well. The old fuse wasn't even blown. Thank you
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    fixthedaewoofixthedaewoo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Daewoo Nubira SE. 136,000 miles on it. Slowly falling apart. Recently it has had problems starting, basically just in the mornings. Granted I live in Arizona so the cold usually isn't an issue but it starts up just fine later in the day. So the problem is that is tries to start in the morning and takes about 30 minutes to start up. Did a code test and three codes popped up. O2 censor, tranny, and a code that I wasn't familiar with. Ended up being another sensor. Replaced the cam shaft censor. However up until last week the car wasn't doing this... Anyone having any issues like this? takes this long to start up in the morning? its usually 95 in the morning here.
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    hpsnvhpsnv Member Posts: 5
    I own a 99 leganza since new. had the problem of hard starting in the mornings in las vegas and had the same o2 message. once started it ran well all day except in the hi temps(110+degrees). I figured it had to be fuel problem and replaced the o2, fuel injectors, plugs, fuel pump, gas filter, disconnecting the fuel lines and blowing it out. After complete disgust, why I don't know, I took apart the fuel rail(it feeds the injectors) and found it clogged. With the money spent already I cleaned it out and put it back in(as long as it didn't leak) and now it starts as the starter hits the flywheel. this had been done May and its now Sept and starts all the time GOOD LUCK
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    mdolechekmdolechek Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problems with my 2000 daewoo nubira with not starting only in the mornings sometimes. I can eventually get it to start after 30-45 minutes of trying. Can you tell me where the fuel rail is located? And how I would go about cleaning it out? Thanks!
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    hpsnvhpsnv Member Posts: 5
    the fuel rail on the leganza is located on the top of the engine behind the fuel injectors. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch square in size, about 6 in. long and has the fuel line attached on the left side and a freeze out (or a pressure relief) plug on the other side. If you smell gas, the plug is leaking and the rail should be replaced.
    One other thing you may want to try before taking anything apart is to add a double dose of fuel injector gas additive first to see if it clears up. DO NOT double up again, single dose the second time. I use Lucas upper cylinder lubricant 32 oz size container as it can be used in the months ahead as you purchase gas that might be contaminated from the gas stations
    Good Luck
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    needtoknow11needtoknow11 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Daewoo Leganza CDX with a code PO341 done at O'Reilly's that said camshaft position sensor should be changed. (Engine light was not on but car misfiring.) He sold me a "OE" sensor from Import Direct. While looking on internet for where in car to install it, I found place called Daewoo Motor America and an 877 number to call. Spoke w/Carlos and he said that can only use original parts directly from their company and unless ordering from them I am not really getting original and down line might ruin/melt all wiring in my car which would be a bigger problem. Does anyone know if this is true or not? Also, does anyone know where the sensor is located in the car and can anyone (non-mechanic) replace it with ease? Where can I get a manual for repairs on this car? Thanks
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