Kia Sorento

lok888

They just bought this up while I was in service for an oil change. I think the original brake pads on my '03 EX are doing fine at 32,500 miles. I have read many negative posts about Kia OEM brake pads which caused a lot of brake dust and even warped rotors on low mileage. I would probably use the Kia OEM or aftermarket ceramic pads and have them replace in my friend's shop. The rotors are still in good shape. I hope the original pads can last to 40K miles. There are 20% left now. I know this is how dealer make profit. The service invoice showed $30+ for an oil change. I just used a free oil change voucher by Kia.

Now, I am trying to find an answer about the rust wheel spacers on rear wheels. They all have rusted surface due to winter driving condition.

beyond_help

the biggest way to warp rotors and shorten pad life are, no1, improper lug nut torque (sorento alloy wheels 87ft lbs. max) and drivings habits.
there are also other factors, such as undersized brakes in realtionship to vehicle weight and pad material.
i can not emphasize enough now important it is to properly torque lug nuts !

phoenixrider

KIA switched the Sorento over in 04, I believe, to ceramic pads due to the fact that the semi metallic were not adequate and overheating. So it could well be that your rotors are warped and need replacing. Do you feel a vibrating when you apply the brakes? Even with slight warpage, they can often be turned, though. But I'd still get other opinion from brake shops rather than just taking the dealer's word for it

hciaffa

from what I have been told by two service departments is that the semi metallics are still used in and up to 05s, cheaper that using ceramics thus the reason for all the black dust on the wheels. Talked to a service tech a a local Pep Boys and he confirmed that his 04 has semi metallics and he has switched over to ceramics, no dust and better stopping.

kia bound

lok888: The cost of $1000 for brakes is way beyond riduculous. I obtained from r1concepts in Anaheim Hills, CA, drilled and slotted, OEM grade, front (2) and rear (2) rotors and ceramic brake pads for the front and rear for $325.00-including tax. I installed them myself (2 hours). The reason I went with drilled/slotted is that when on a trip to Death Valley last winter (cool weather) with no towing the steering wheel began to shimmy from brake heating when descending the long steep grade from Towne Pass to the valley floor. The rotors did not warp. Now, the Sorento brakes are pretty well spec'd as far as rotor diameter and thickness with double piston calipers up front. So what's going on? From the reading I have done, the shimmy phenomenon is caused by hot gas coming off the pads and pushing the pad away from the rotor intermittently to vent the gas. Holes drilled through the rotor stops this problem-the slotting is said to give a better bite to the pads, although they may wear a bit faster. At r1concepts it costs $5 extra per rotor for just drilling OR just sotting. Here's how good the new set-up worked: Towing a 3000 lb trailer (no trailer brakes) to Lake Mead in late May with an air temperature of about 100F (there was a heat wave) I used the brakes a LOT harder than at the Death Valley grade and there was absolutely no brake fade or wheel shimmy. The brakes did smell after descending the boat launch ramp at Hemmenway Wash due to heavy brake usage (the lake is about 90 feet below max so the drive down the ramp is long) and, more importantly, low road speed which didn't allow much air flow over the rotors. Others were having the same problem with smell but again actual performance was flawless-the brakes grabbed more as they heated up. It took less pedal effort to stop the Sorento towing that boat than it did to stop the 2003 Dodge 2500 I used last year to do the same job-although its brakes never smelled. All brakes, when used toward their maximum capabilty (power), get very hot and a good brake still performs well when running at the limit. With the drilled and slotted rotors, the disappointing original performance under stress has been completely eliminated.

As for Off-Road, the stock set-up is pretty good. I did the same suspension thing as phoenixrider (OME struts/springs, Toyota front spring spacer kit, LT265/75/16 tires with some wheel well trimming-thanks for the help phoenixrider!). He pioneered the OME kit on this site. The Sorento can now go places that I probably shouldn't.

The Sorento's front drive axle, transfer case, rear axle and the body on frame construction is basically a copy of a Toyota Tacoma pick-up 4x4-thats good. A strange thing is that a Sorento 4x4 has no badging at all to indicate it is 4x4.

phoenixrider

I bet you really like the ride now with the OME stuff! Way better ride than stock. The main thing I really dislike about the Sorento front end compared to the Toyota is the ease at which you can remove struts. Royal Pain the the Sorento!

I pposted over in Sorento Problems, but have the dealer check/replace the crankshaft bolt. They're snapping left and right, as it is the flawed Mitsubishi design. There is now a stronger replacement bolt out to supposedly solve the problem.

Mine broke in a place the Sorento really shouldn't go - about 25 miles out in some nasty offroad trails (probably 4.0+ rated out of 5) No way, no how to tow it out. We tried this past weekend to drill it out, EZ Out it - bolt wouldn't buge! Snapped a couple tools trying! Next weekend, we'll try drilling out/tapping the threads to get rid of the bolt, then put the harmonic balancer back on and hopefuly be able to drive it out. If that don't work - well, I'll give give out GPS coordinates for where you can get Sorento parts! :mad: I really don't know what I'll do if we can't get that bolt out and the new one one - you can't drive it with out the crankshaft pulley because the sprocket for the timing belt will fly off.

kia bound

Hey Phoenicxrider.

Man, that is a stinking nightmare and just because of some lame bolt. I am very sorry to hear about that.

The sprocket may stay on because, according the service manual pictures, there is a flange on both the water pump pulley and the idler pulley that keep the timing belt from "walking" forward and therefore would also tend to not allow the sprocket to creep forward but....

Is there any portion of the snout of the crankshaft beyond the sprocket?

From the service service manual it appears that the balancer is bolted flush (with a small raised portion on the sprocket) to the sprocket. Is this so? If it is, it is a bad design-all that mass of balancer hanging from the sprocket without the benefit of being centered by the crankshaft snout.

If there is some of the crankshaft snout beyond the sprocket, to make sure the sprocket stays on you could make a socket-like, tight-fitting "tool" that can be hammered onto the crankshaft snout and bear against the sprocket. The woodruff key in the crankshaft would need to removed or allowance made for it in the tool. The balancer could serve as a template for shape, length and hole diameter (depending on the original fit of the balancer, the tool hole should be a few to perhaps several thousands of an inch smaller. The dealer can pull or cut off the "tool" during removal of the crankshaft bolt.

Here is a thought about drilling: Verify if the balancer bolt is is right hand or left hand threaded. If it is right-handed, drilling the old bolt with good (made for cutting hard steel) Reverse Twist drills (they advance when turning counter-clockwise) gives an advantage in that you are always applying torque in the direction that tends to loosen the bolt. As you drill the bolt larger it has a better chance of coming free of its own, without having to destroy the crankshaft threads. If the bolt is really left hand threaded then, of course, standard drills are best for holing the bolt.

I wish you easy sucess in getting back on the road again.

The OME does have a good ride-not nearly the jarring.

Thanks for the suggestion about checking the crankshaft bolt.

That bolt must be something critical because the torque spec is 130-138 lbf-ft. That is a very tight spec that excceds the accuracy of most torque wrenches.

phoenixrider

Yeah, the harmonic balance just sits flush on the crankshaft sproket, and uses one small pin to keep it from spinning. Same design as the Mitsubishi, which has been breaking bolts since the 90's'



This is a pic of a Mitsubishi harmonic balancer. The KIA is the same. Like I said, the last ope will be to drill the bolt out to the exact dimenision, then tap it out to clean out the threads. Failing that - replacing the crankshaft in the field? Not very likely

kia bound

Hey Phoenixrider.

Can you get a small arc welder to the place where your Sorento is? I'm thinking the kind that runs off a car battery for emergency off road repairs. Any arc welder will do. If so, maybe you could weld just a small 'tack spot" maybe 1/8" anywhre on the circle right where the crank sproket meets the crank snout. That would hold the sprocket on and allow you to drive out. The tack would be small enough that when it is ground away the crankshaft would certainly be perfectly servicable and probably the sprocket too. Kia would then have to figure out the bolt removal. I'm talking just a brief hit with the arc rod. After disconnecting the battery, one person could hold the Ground Electrode to the sprocket and another give just small zap.

dirk3111

If you go off roading any at all, a Nissan Exterra is by far your best bet. Jeep Liberty would be a good second choice. The Sorento only has 192 HP and weighs 4400 lbs.(A 1990 Ford Escort has a better power to weight ratio.) With a vehicle that weak and that heavy, you have no chance of climbing anything. ( I would be surprised if it could make it over a big speed bump.)

phoenixrider

Off roading requires gearing, not horsepower. That is what 4 low is for - to get the engine up to it's power band. And believe me, you can snap an axle plenty fine with 'only' 192hp if you use the throttle wrong in 4 low

Friend of mine has a Toy pickup. A 92 I think. Lifted, 35's. Standard 22R inline 4 banger. BUT, he has a Marlin Crawler gear box. That thing will go where a Dodge pickup with 300 horses can't go - and he'll break less stuff trying

Horsepower is overrated here in the States. Everybody wants horsepower. I'd prefer torque over HP, specialy for offroading. But because we Americans are consumed with getting ever more HP out of the engines, the auto manufacturers won't bring thier diesels over here because they don't make enough 'horsepower', and therefore the 0-60 times are to 'slow'. But do you really care about doing 8 seconds 0-60 when you're crawling up a 40 percent grade at 3 mph? Not me.

tads

Yeah the belly pan is only one weak area in the Sorento.

If your keen to look up articles on the Sorento do a Google search where you will find heaps of web sites dedicated to it.
Not sure about the reliabilty of the Kia though,personally.
My motor sucked in sand through the belly pan / radiator and contaminated the timing belt area derailing the timing belt.
It was fixed under warranty but 3 months later the motor has developed a real bad rattle when starting after sitting over night.I suspect when the timing belt slipped, an engine valve has hit the piston damaging a lifter (shim and bucket ?) causing the thing to rattle befor enough oil can pump in there and settle it.The sterio volume has started to develop a fault.The rear main has developed an oil leak as well.I have changed the diff and tranny oil @ 10 thousand and the engine oil every 5 thousand (filter every 10 thou)as well as greasing everything so Ive looked after it.The rig has done 20 thousand klm's so far.

Ive done heaps of mods on my 04 as I plan doing some big trips accross Australia in the near future.This is the only reason I wont sell it.The Sorento drives well though,on smooth roads.
Some things Ive done to my 04 to prep it for long distance 4x4 touring include a long range fuel tank,rear swing away tyre rack with high lift jack and shovel mount,Bull Bar with spot lights,Air shocks on the rear give me 2" of lift,built a HD bike rack for the mountain bikes as well as a off road trailer to go with the tow bar I built.
The only reason Ive stopped there is because Ive hurt my back at work and cant climb all over/under the thing at the mo.
Later on I plan to modify the lower front shock mounts by 2" and raise it that way.The thing is nearly sitting on the bump stops now so this mod should bring the ride hight to just over stock (new) anyway.Should someone bring out a worth while suspention kit I will concider it though as after the stock springs get the pounding they are in for, the Sorento will need it for sure !
Id class the Sorento as a soft roader untill you pour some dollars into it to make it alot tougher but one area it loves is beach driving (after modifying the belly plate though !)

Good luck with you purchase gnoc and I'll post a link to webshots where you can see some picks of my 04.

Tads

tads

To those interested,here are a few pics of the Sorento Ive just about finnished with :P
Thank god it still has 2 more years warranty thou Hopefully all the bugs will be out of it by then !
Go to http://community.webshots.com/user/tadpole204

Regards

Tads

tads

From my experiance, the heavier the vehicle (within reason) the more places it will climb,My first 4x4 was a Toyota Landcruiser with a Arkana body (L/crusiers came with many body options in Australia for mining,farming ect ect) Anyway the Arkana body my 74 LWB L/Bruiser came with was like 2mm thick steel plate except the roof which was fibreglass.That thing left everything for dead in the hills at the time because of its weight.
This is fact because I traded the old Arkana in a lighter bodied 1983 FJ45 Personel Carrier (with the std body you see all over the world) because I had some big trips planned and the old 74 was too heavy.
I used to go to the same trails I went with the old 74 and was shocked to see the new 83 was battling to get up the the first hill,wheels spinning and slipping in every rut,same gear,same tyre pressures ect.
The Sorento I have now is lighter still and has at least 140 more Hp to the old Bruiser so the power to weight issue is irrelevant concidering the gear ratio's are simular.

Enjoy

phoenixrider

Not sure that it would healp all that much getting new skid plates (belly pan). It's still going to to get sand, dirt water up there. Right where the harmonic balancer attaches to the crankshaft gear, it's fairly open there. The timing belt has big groves on it that go around the crankshaft gear, so a little sand and dirt shouldn't derail it. Did your belt break, or did it slip a notch or 2? I just can't really see how the belt can slip. Take a look at this picture, this is the timing belt on the crankshaft gear: crank shaft gear I suppose if a whole bunch of debris got in there it could slip some, but that seems to be a freak thing. Just good thing the dealer fixed it. Almost sounds like you just got a 'bad' motor in your Sorento. No way main seals should start leaking at that mileage.

Have you looked into OME suspension? It makes a world of difference in ride quality. Add a Daystar Strut spacer off of a Toyto Tundra, and you got nearly 2 inches of lift in the front. But with that big bull bar on yours, maybe not so much.

tads

Gday phoenixrider,

Yeah the new belly plate helps some as I did some heavy duty mud driving a few weeks ago and the engine bay remained spotless.
The belt did'nt break,it slipped a couple of teeth.When the whole show was apart at the dealers w/shop i had a look and was shocked at the amount of sand in there.Looks as if the sand got between the belt and pully alowing it to slip.
I know what you mean about the gap near the crank shaft pully/cover and this should be rectified by Kia ASAP.The bolt you broke looks like a grade 8 or higher bolt but probably got brittle somewhere along the line. Norton Commando's suffered bad metallurgy processes with brittle bolts and pourus heads ect.
I give you credit for repairing the Sorento way out there.I was in the same boat once or twice myself as my L/Bruiser badly burnt 4 exhaust valves in Far North Queensland.I pulled the head off and replaced the valves no worries.Burnt valves are common on petrol L/Cruisers.

Yeah I think the motor in my Sorento is a dud for sure.It goes well at the moment but it will get worse I think.I told the dealer I wanted a new motor when the belt slipped fearing a valve may have hit a piston.I think I was right because the rattle upon a cold start indicates a faulty/damaged lifter.
Thanks for the tip re the spacer, i will look into it.Excuse my ignorance but what is a Tundra ? I dont think we have them in Australia but maybe called something else ? Is it like a 4 runner or something ?
The ally bull bar on my rig as actually lighter than it looks.The high lift jack weighs more believe it or not.The bar belongs on a Mitsubishi Pajero but I modified it to suit.

That area where the bolt broke (Packer ?) looks like a top spot for a 4x4.It reminds me of an area here in Australia called the Kimberlies.Keep the pics coming as thats what these things were designed for eh :P

Iron side up

Tads

mark67

Hi guys,

Does anyone know what changes will be on the 2006 Sorento? The only info I can find is that there will be an engine upgrade.

Thanks

Mark

carnivore

According to Car & Driver...
A restyling and reengineering is expected, to accept a new 3.8-liter V-6 and a 5-speed automatic, and a possible 3rd-row seat.

And from ConsumerGuide...
Our spies say the 2006 Sorento will exchange a solid axle for independent rear suspension and get a standard 3.8-liter V6 with some 245 hp. The larger engine was developed by corporate parent Hyundai for its new Azera flagship sedan and also powers Kia's redesigned '06 Sedona minivan. There's talk of a stretched Sorento with 3-row seating, though it's unclear when it might appear and whether it would supplement or replace the current 5-seat design. Either way, the lengthened Kia seems the likely basis for a full-size Hyundai SUV being rumored for around 2008.

mark67

Thanks Carnivore.

Mark

carnivore

Actually, both of those articles linked above may be dated. I managed to track down some current press material that comes directly from Kia, which makes no mention of most of those changes for the 2006 model year. It does, however, make a fleeting reference to the 5-speed automatic transmission. Odd that it would only show up in the Specifications article though, not the What's New column, making me wonder if it was a typo.

1. WHAT'S NEW FOR 2006 - SORENTO
Delete Automatic Load Leveling option.
Addition of new alloy wheel for all LX models (drops previous steel wheel) while maintaining current alloy wheel for EX and Sport Package.

2. 2006 KIA SORENTO SPECIFICATIONS
The 2006 Kia Sorento four-door sport-utility vehicle is powered by a 3.5-liter V6 engine with 192 horsepower and comes with a standard five-speed manual transmission with an optional five-speed automatic transmission. The rear-wheel-drive, five-passenger SUV is built on a ladder frame with nine cross members and features dual front airbags, front and rear side curtain airbags, optional Torque-on-Demand automatic full-time four wheel drive and four-wheel antilock brakes. There are two trim levels: LX and EX.

I notice there is no 2006 Sorento info on the Edmunds web site yet though, which of course would clear up any mystery (hint, mods!).

phoenixrider

Tads -

Haven't been in this forum for a while. How's the engine?

The Daystar part you need is a Toyota Tacoma/Tundra. Don't jnow what they call it over there. The part # is KT09105

Hey, I read you've got a bull bar - did you have it custome made? I am working on getting a winch mounted on the thing right now. What a pain! The Sorento is not made for custom bumpers, winches, or anything like that. I cut off the front cross member and will now need to attach something to the frame in order to attach a new bumper. And because of how thin the steel is on the frame, makes it even harder!

Picture of the front crossmember removed:


Picture of mock-up brackets. But I think I am just going to slide a box into the frame, bolt it through, and leave a flange on the outside to bolt a new bumper to, instead of making it one piece..

tidester

I notice there is no 2006 Sorento info on the Edmunds web site yet though, which of course would clear up any mystery (hint, mods!)

Sign up here to be the first kid on your block to find out!

tidester, host

bradesp

I'm close to taking the plung on an 05' Sorento and was wondering, other than the obvious benefits of traction in poor / slick conditions, what other pros/cons are there to buying the 2WD vs the 4WD? For example, price? re-sale? reliability? gas mileage? ride? etc.

Thanks!

bradesp

tads

Gday Phoenixrider,

You should be right mounting the winch and it looks like your half way there.Are you going to fit a Bull Bar to go with the winch ? You would be better off building a subframe to mount both the Bar and the winch.Have a look at the pics here
http://community.webshots.com/user/tadpole204
It might give you a few ideas.The ally bull bar I have is actually off a Mitsubishi Pajero and fitted perfectly.I mounted it off the body a tad in case of a collision with a roo as it will save body damage if the bar bends in.Make sure you cross brace between the chassis as if winching,this may bend the rails inwards.I use a hand winch myself but I have seen where you go with your rig so an electric winch would be less work !

Yeah my motor is a bit suspect.I changed the oil which made the tapping sound go away for a while but after 2000 miles the tapping is back but only when cold.I'll try fully synthetic oil next but a new motor is probably the only fix and as I intend to do a 15000 mile round trip next year,I'll get it fixed befor I go,under warranty that is !
I'll try those part numbers you give me and fit the spacers.Thanks
Good luck with the bar work

Tads

phoenixrider

Tads -

So this is the winch mount on the Sorento. The goal was to keep the weight down as much as possible, the costs down, and keep or improve the existing approach angle. I also ordered synthetic winch rope, and a new fairlead. That will save me over 30 pounds as well.

New crossmember welded in place:



Welding the winch tray in my 'workshop'


Frame extension brackets built:


Frame extension brackets welded into the frame rails:


Body section removed so the winch can be tucked in. Re-enforcement was welded in and hood latch re-mounted:


Finished product.


I'll get some better photos up on my webshots account soon.

I still have to trim out under the headlights, and modify the skid plate to meet up with the winch plate, and wire the thing up. But I think I really got that 'Mad Max' theme going here!

tads

Gday mate,

The winch mount is a credit to ya ! Sure looks tough enough.Im sure theres more than a few of us die hard Sorento off roaders out there and cheers for sharing your ideas.
The Sorento has the makings of a capable 4x4 and with a few mods, they should keep up with the best of them.Some air lockers in the diffs and detachable sway bars at least would make the Sorento very capable indeady.
Look forward to having a look at the finnished product.

Cheers
Tads

phoenixrider

Tads -

Actually, I've long ago just removed the front sway bar. And I put disconnects on the rear. You can find them for a Toyota 4Runner (or whatever they're called down under).

Also, the front struts, are the same design as the Toyota Tundra ( the bigger Toyota truck). So ordered a set of the coil spacers that go under the top plate, which will firm up the OME springs, which should compensate for the extra winch weight. I still may need a little spacer on top to keep things leveled out properly.

I ordered synth line for the winch, so replacing the steel cable and the fairlead roller will shave over 30 + pounds off the front end set up, which is a good thing.

I had a question on your fuel tank - did you add it in addition to the stock tank, or is it now your only fuel tank? And how much fuel does it hold? I'm thinking of going that route myself.

tads

Gday,

Yeah we have the 4 Skinners here in Aus.I saw a model of the Tundra in a toy store last week and it looked alot like the 4 Runner so I'll start there when tracking down the front spring spacers for the Sorento.
Yeah that fibre winch line looks like the go, Ive seen it used here in Aus and it is pretty much std now on off road comp rigs due to its low weight and high strength.

The long range fuel tank is out of a 1982 Datsun 200 B Station Wagon.It holds around 55 litres and is separate from the original main fuel tank.The fuel filler cap was sourced from a caravan acc shop.I used this tank because its slim line and it took place of the spare tyre.No underhang but it could be bigger.I use a after market electric fuel pump to transfer from the aux to the main when there is enough room.I did'nt bother with the fuel gauge as I've pretty much worked out the milages spot on .I get around 1200 klm's from both tanks, 80L main and 55L aux = 135 litres.
If you wanted to leave the spare where it is, if you re route the exhaust where it runs past the Sorento fuel tank, you could fit a tank thats simular to the original Sorento tank which would double your range. From what I've seen, a few of the larger 4x4's like Toyota and Nissan ect use very simular tanks to the Sorento's design and these can be found thrown in the bin out the back of Four Wheel Drive accessory fitting w/shops near brand new as some guys fit one peice long range tanks.You could probably build one but you cant beat the strength of a pressed steel factory tank.Have fun !

Tads

phoenixrider

Other than changing out the fairlead roller when the synth line comes in, the winch on Sorie project is about all wrapped up.

cashcow1

Hi, Does anyone know where I can buy the Lock Fuel Cap for the '05 Sorento? There are a few on Ebay but they're for the Sportage instead of the Sorento. I don't want to leave the tank open to public. Who knows if some kids will put some sands there. Please advise. Thanks.

lok888

I just want to double check with you guys that the Sorento is using Dexron III automatic transmission fluid and with 9.8 quarts.

onyxdragonflys

Hello,

I am new to this group. I purchased a 2005 Kia Sorento this past January. I have been very happy with it until recently. Both my husband and I started noticing that when we stoped and started that there was a "movement" accompanied by a thump.
My husband took the car in and they supposedly replaced the rear wheel drive shaft, ordered a new front wheel drive shaft, and then replaced that part. This was 2 weeks ago and the thumping sound has come back.
The car is 4wd and an automatic, it is the LS model.
When my husband called back to let them know that the thump was coming from the rear wheel area, they told him they didn't know what else they could do. Heh.. my husband told them that they could check out the rear drive again.
Anyways, it seems that there is/was a problem with the drive shaft sticking and rusting. I am not a mechanic and don't know the specifics. It seems, from what the mechanic told my husband, that this seems to be a problem in some 05 Sorentos. that the drive shaft is getting wet and rusting and that they have a "new" part that is protected so it won't rust and stick.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so, what they did about it and if they have any information regarding this that I can tell my husband so he can use it when he takes the car back in next week.

Thanks much in advance,

Diane

P.S.
I hope I made sense.

lok888

I have a 2003 Sorento EX, 4WD with TOD. I have the same "thump" feeling everytime I let off the brakes after a stop from high speed. By the way you will find more similar messages in Sorento Problem & Solution board. I have been told this is normal due to limited slip differential (LSD) on 4WD models. Some have this look at by their dealers. They replaced drive shaft and put some lubrications. I have read that it works fine at first and the "thump" returns.

johnd611

Hello all I currently have a 2001 Ford Expedition 4wd eddie bauer edition and I have been thinking of getting rid of it for a Kia Sorento anyone have an opinion or have I just opened a big ole can of worms

coach7

I purchased a '05 LX 5-Speed Sport in July and have 4,000 trouble free miles. This is one of the best vehicles I have driven. I previously owned a Jeep Wagoneer, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee and the KIA is every bit as capable as those. I traded an '02 Honda Accord for it and the quality is very comprable. I told myself after purchasing the Accord I would never buy anything else, but the KIA was everything Honda offered and more. It is a great vehicle.

onyxdragonflys

Hi, Thank you for replying to my post. I will check out the board you mentioned. Also, what is LSD? I saw that mentioned in some of the posts and "whew" it went right over my head.

Thanks much,

Diane

mark67

Hi, Does anybody know if the body-side cladding on the Sorento can be waxed or should a plastic protectant be used instead?

Thank you,

Mark

lok888

LSD = Limited slip differential. Most LSDs are installed in rear wheels like Sorento 4WD model. If one wheel is slipping on a particular axle (rear axle), it will shift power to the opposite side wheel for better traction.

Also,

TOD = Torque on demand. TOD is in the transfer case which moves power from rear to front. In Sorento 4WD with TOD, it will shift power up to 50% to the front wheels. It is 80% rear and 20% front on dry pavement. It's still like a rear wheel drive most of the time.

Conclusion:

LSD: Moves power left to right or side to side on the same axle.

TOD: Moves power front to rear or rear to front.

lok888

It is OK to wax these areas. Use plastic protectant on dashboard, plastic trims and any unpainted surface. I use plastic protectant on dash, door sills, rear bumper step protector.

mark67

Thanks for your reply, Lok888

Mark

sklynn

I just purchased a 2006 Sorento and my husband wants to install my mp3/WMA cd player, but we can't figure out how to remove the dash to swap decks. Has anyone done this? If so, can you give us some pointers?

Sara

yamanto

Wondering if there is any confirmed information on what changes kia has made to the sorento for 2006 and likely release date. recently saw some spy photos taken in the usa in july 05.externally there appears little has changed so assume that the changes are to the interior and mechanicals.Iam waiting to to purchase but have held off until the upgrade is released.the last major upgrade here in australia was the five speed auto in october 2004.

lok888

No change for 2006 model in U.S. I looked at the brochure for 2006 Sorento and one in the dealer's parking lot a month ago. I can only tell the only different is the front and rear Kia emblems. It is not the raised KIA word anymore. I am hoping a redesign Sorento will be out for 2007 model year next year.

yamanto

Thanks for the reply.Iam looking to buy in april so it will be interesting to see what changes they have made.

bygdaddy

i don't know if anyone replied to your message or if you found out yet, but the two side strips (where the heating vents are) snap out, revealing the screws for you to change your radio out. hope this helps.

lok888

Anyone received the free oil change invitation from Kia or just me? I think this is my third time to receive this as an anniversary gift. I bought my Sorento three years ago. It such as a prefect gift from Kia.

piverson

yes - i got one,too last month! this is my first one but i hope it will not be my last. i have a 2005 Sorento that my husband gave me last year for Christmas.

Happy New Year!

lok888

I checked with my brother's wife who has an '03 Spectra. She didn't receive anything. I hope Kia will resume their loyal customer program when I am ready in the market for my next Kia.

jonmck

I have a new 2005 Kia Sorento EX and I would like to remove the factory 6 disc CD changer and replace it with a navigation system/GPS system if possible. The dealer said that it can be done. I would like a fixed mounted system, not one that the screen comes out and up. Where can I find a link to review it online? Also, are there such things as a navigation system that is also a CD changer? Or will I just have to give up my cd changer for a one disc system if I upgrade to a navigation system? THANKS!

tcarrillo

Does anyone have any information about doing an inline connection to the Sorento's stereo. I've seen after market products for other cars but I have not found anything for the Sorento. I am not interested in the wireless RF option.

I'm still very happy with over 55K miles on my 2003 Sorento.