Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance

e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
has 4.3 and it died. Found no fuel going to engine. Replace pump and now has pressure at the fuel rail but won't run. Squirting fuel into intake will allow it to run. Any experience in this area appreciated. Thank You.


  • charliernccharliernc Member Posts: 1
    On a trip my a/c stops getting cold after about 1 hour on the road running at 65 mph;I think it freezes up.I tried both reg. and max a/c positions to no avail.Works fine around town.Any suggestions?
  • rjbrucerjbruce Member Posts: 2
    It sounds to me the problem with your Blazer may be the Fuel Injector. I believe the 93 model is still a TBI so it should have one fuel injector. I would pull a spark plug and make sure there is gas on it. If there isn't gas I would guess the injector is bad. If there is gas it could still be the injector if it isn't using enough fuel. It could also be you're not getting spark. If you pull a plug, put the wire on, and ground it to the frame (don't touch the plug, it's best to use pliers (with insulated handles on the wire) you should see spark.

    For the S-10, all I can say is to confirm the element is freezing, you can run till it doesn't blow cold, run the heater for a few minutes (man it's hot in here), then flip the air back on and see if it blows cold again. If it does, I'd contact the dealer about it, they may not be able to do anything, but I'd try since it should still be under warranty (assuming you haven't ran over the miles on the warranty).
  • ronimal311ronimal311 Member Posts: 1
    My truck was great for the first three years then its been a constant battle. I was wondering if anyone's truck stalls when its hot. It happens mostly after I have stopped at a light, then try to acclerate, and then the motor stalls. It only happens when its hot outside and the engine tempurature is above normal. Any suggestions would be great

  • wmoses3818wmoses3818 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 S-10 extra cab with the four-cylinder motor, manual transmission and approximately 90k miles. My truck has been completely reliable up until a few weeks ago. The motor would noticeably miss and then seemingly smooth out and run fine. It got progressively worse; primarily when I would began accelerating after stopping at a stoplight. It misses, but accelerates slowly, and once up to speed it runs fine. I had the dealer check it out and they replaced the plug wires and spark plugs. The problem continued however the dealer said it was fine. I brought it to an independent shop and they replaced the fuel filter and inspected and cleaned the injectors. Still the problem persists. Both shops claim that there is not a problem and everything is fine. Any advice would be appreciated; I am at my wits end. Thanks.
  • canyon_runcanyon_run Member Posts: 2
    I have a '94 S-10, 4 cylinder, manual, 95,500 miles that has an overheating problem. I have changed out the thermostat twice, the fan clutch plate and the valve gasket seals, and have no air conditioning. It only occurs when the outside temps are humid and above 85 or so. It occurs on the freeway and town streets and only cools down after running the heater on high, but continues if I turn off the heater. Has anyone else had this problem that can make some suggestions, as the garages/ dealerships cannot seem to figure out what's wrong with it.
  • softwarevpsoftwarevp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10, 4 cyl, manual, 62,000 miles that had an overheating problem as well. It finally overheated quite a bit, so I took it to the shop only to find out that either the head gasket needs replaced or I have a cracked head. Might want your mechanic to check and see if any steam is coming out of your tailpipe. Do you have to constantly top off your coolant levels??
  • mattison1mattison1 Member Posts: 1
    My 98 S-10 blazer is start hard in the mornings and after sitting for more than 30 min. When it is running it runs fine. I have replaced the plugs, had the throttle body ckecked, and had the electrical system ckecked. So far I have found nothing. Any ideas welcome.
  • canyon_runcanyon_run Member Posts: 2
    The coolant levels are good - that's one thing I've learned to check constantly with this problem. I haven't noticed any steam but I will mention it when I take it in (again) next week. If it's a cracked head, you'll be seeing it on the side of the road. Thanks for the suggestion.
  • go10go4go10go4 Member Posts: 4
    I am shopping for another S-10 used. My last had a 2.8 engine V-6 - EXTREMELY reliable. Almost 200,000 with NO engine repairs. That's no longer available. I'm having a hard time finding a 4.3; almost all seem to have the 2.2 4 cyl. Any experiences with these engines? I have heard the 2.2 is underpowered. Is it durable?
  • chevy_s10_lschevy_s10_ls Member Posts: 2
    Just got a 99 S10 LS Extended cab.

    Both mirrors, parts of the grill area and the door handles have started to fade from their original black color to a chalky gray'ish/white color. Any suggestions as to what I can apply to them to bring back the dark black color.. or am I resigned to buying all new parts?
  • sbrazzelsbrazzel Member Posts: 1
    What type of problems happen on 97 4cyl 5sp with 800000 miles on it.
    is the four cyl a good engin
  • dammitdammit Member Posts: 1
    i basically need to know where three loose vacum lines connect to............ 1 is located near the tail shaft & the 2 are located like right behind the shifters.....<<<modulater vacum is connected............ this is for a 83 chevy.,s10 blazer & the vehicle was converted to a 350 v8 motor.................. thanx
  • btp1btp1 Member Posts: 3
    i used a dry scouring pad to clean the black on my plastic grill and metak wipers, then sprayed them with a black primer. i'm not sure about your mirrors though. black primer is actually dark grey and comes in a spray can.
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    Has anyone anything to say about the 02 or 03 Blazer? I know that 03 is its last year, but my wife continues to want one to replace our lease-expiring JGC. We had a 97 Blazer for 3 years before the Jeep, and it was a very good vehicle for us. I am trying to get her to look at the 03 Trailblazer, but don't know if I can change her mind. Thanks!
  • tarheelboy12tarheelboy12 Member Posts: 1
    The 3rd door on my 2000 S10 doesn't close completely causing the door to rattle a little and the wind noise to be louder than normal. Does anyone know if their is a way to adjust the latch? Has anyone else had this problem?
  • zonkzonk Member Posts: 208
    How sure are you of this? My wife loved her 1997 Blazer, and wants a new 03. I have been trying to accomodate her as well as ler her see/drive the Trailblazer. I wish dealers would tell the truth. I have been told by two of them that this is the last year for the Blazer and that there were no 4 door models because Chevy was trying to get folks who wanted that model to go up to the Trailblazer.
  • jscholtzjscholtz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 S10 4.3 with 48k. Nice pickup. While the original consumption estimate is 17/22 MPG, I have been trying to get more miles out of every tank. I replaced the air filter with a K&N high flow air filter. That upped my mileage a bit. I also added a bed cover. Now I get a little over 24 MPG. Does anyone have some advice for running the engine more efficient and getting some extra mileage? Maybe adding to the life of the engine too?
  • orwoodyorwoody Member Posts: 269
    I am thinking about picking up a new 2002 Ext cab 4WD S-10/Sonoma pu that my dealer has marked way down. It has the ZR2 package and seems like a nice little truck. My only concern is that the Consumer reports and a few others rate the quality and reliability lower than similar models from other mfrs. I would like to hear about any issues and problems owners have had on the last few model years.

  • 805engineer805engineer Member Posts: 3

    03 Blazer 4 doors have been virtually unavailable to dealers so far this year. Go rent a car and ask if they have a Blazer and you will find where they all have been going. Check with your dealer in late January of 2003. He should change his tune. The dealers told you what they knew at the time. Things change...

  • yellowdryellowdr Member Posts: 41
    I read the article regarding "purchase of an extended warranty" and found the website to the national "complaint" safety organization (NHTSA).

    I was concerned that about 1/3 or the 100 plus complaints lodged against the Chevy S-10 for the 2001 model were in regards to hydrolic brake failure. Nearly another 1/3 were related to serious transmission problems.

    Dealerships were not viewed as taking these problems seriously.

    I am not seeing those types of complaints posted in this forum. The site was well worth the look especially if you are considering the value of an extended warranty.

    I do not know whether the number of complaints to the NHTSA are "normal" or unusual.

    Any ideas?
  • ns_zr2ns_zr2 Member Posts: 2
    I'm the proud owner of a 02 s-10 ext cab LS ZR2! When I bought my truck I had observations about the zr2 package myself. I almost bought a DODGE! Anyway, this is truck is reliable, quite surpisingly good on fuel and alot easier to manuver then the dodge I was looking at. On the down side, 4.3 v6 is the only option for power, which is ok, but I wanted a v8. Other then that the truck has surpassed my expations, in everyway. I live in nova scotia where we get alot of snow, and I can honestly say, it takes a HUGE, snow bank to stop this tank!
  • camaro77camaro77 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 4X4 S10 Blazer and I have a loud noise upon deceleration from the right front area. It starts out as a loud rumble and then deepens and stops when i slow down.

    The noise occurs (say one out of 10 trips) on the interstate. I drive 70 and when i get on a offramp, the noise starts and stops around 25-30 MPH. If i start accelerating when the noise starts, the blazer will keep going without any noise. But as soon as I start braking, it starts back again.

    Anybody have this problem? Heard of it? I am leaning towards a hub or transfer case problem. Maybe the blazer is trying to go into 4X4 mode when i decelerate sometimes? Thanks in advance.

    89 S10Blazer, 136,000, Tahoe Edition, 4.3 L V6
  • shylowshylow Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had a problem with their ignitions switches?? I had a '97 blazer with 118K miles and the ignition switch failed by not letting pwr throught to the fuse block for the gages and the electric fuel pump.. Seems like I talked to the local chevrolet shop and they have had several vehicles in the last month or so that had the same problems... (1) one wire does not allow current to flow to numerous fuses on the fuse box.. should this be a recall item?? lets hear what you all think??
  • ellery1ellery1 Member Posts: 2
    MATTISON1, I have exactly the same hard start problems with my 94 S-10 p/u. I've put plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump and filter in. I've heard that a fuel pressure regulator may do it, but on my vortec (W engine code) it's all one unit that includes injectors, not cheap. Also, I've been told that a coolant temp sensor would be a possibilty. I'm frustrated as I'm sure you are. If you get it figured out, let me know.
  • rslarnerrslarner Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Chevy S-10 4x4 with the ZR2 package. Eight months into it, with 16K miles, and the transmission just went out. I haven't had any other problems, and everything was covered by Chevy, but it's not the best feeling when your new truck leaves you stranded in the first year. Chevy was less than helpful with the matter, insinuating that it must have been my driving. The truck has not even been off-road yet. Moving forward with fingers crossed...
  • spike882spike882 Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my blazer over the winter. I have the same model and year and all I did was shift the truck into neutral on the 4WD control and then put it back into 2WD. This seemed to take care of the problem for me. I love this truck.
  • skyhawk3skyhawk3 Member Posts: 42
    I have a 96 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed extended cab with 86k. The first start in the morning was fine. Each start thereafter required pumping the pedal & cranking the engine. The dealer told me it was a fuel pressure regulator even before they ran diagnostics. It was pricey and it fixed the problem. Other than front brakes and a battery this is the first maintenance on the truck.
  • camaro77camaro77 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Spike! I changed the transfer case fluid and that has seemed to take care of that problem. But not i have a antifreeze leak :- (

    Keep in touch if you have any other issues come up with your S-10.
  • smackensmacken Member Posts: 1
    Just got my first Chevy truck and in the first 2 tanks of gas, only got 13MPG out of the first.
    50/50 Highway/City.
    Got 16MPG out of the second. 95% 65MPH Highway.
    I'm not sure I'm gonna like having only a 300 mile
    range on the vehicle. Need to gas up twice a week.
    Also note that the engine RPM's are about 300 RPM
    higher at highway speed.
    It replaced a Jeep Grand Cherokee that got 18/24
    MPG and a 400 mile range.

    Question: Is this gonna get better as the engine
    breaks in ?
    What can I do to improve it Change a gear or chip etc....

    Thanks all you pro's.

    over and out
  • joemilanjoemilan Member Posts: 6
    I had this problem on my '97 S10 while it was under extended warranty (about 50K miles). The dealer replaced the EGR system on the truck. No reoccurence of the problem since (90K miles now).
  • joemilanjoemilan Member Posts: 6
    I have a '97 S10 with the 4.3L V6 Vortec. If the timing chain / belt breaks, is this a catastrophic failure, or will you simply be stranded?? If it is a catastrophic issue, what is the recommended mileage to change this at and an approximate cost.

  • ffmcobaltffmcobalt Member Posts: 20
    I just put a new starter in my S-10 Blazer. The trouble was that the Chiltons says that it would take 2.5 hours. Yuck.

    I took the exhaust apart trying to get the starter to drop down since there wasn't any room to pull it up through the top. With a friend pulling the exhaust to the side and me pulling down on the starter, we still couldn't get the damn thing out. So then we decided to hell with it and took the cross-member out.

    Yeah, that wasn't fun putting back in. *grr!* It took three entire shims plus one half shim on the outside bolt. It's a good thing that there wasn't any more space needed because I ran out of shims.

    What happens next? I can't find the bolts that bolt the exhaust line to the exhaust header. Great. Now I have one side of the exhaust off and no bolts. The cool thing is that now it sounds like a frickin monster truck, rumbling down the road. :D It's nice to waste the ricers off the line AND sound like a huge-[non-permissible content removed] Chevy 350 under the hood. I have to bottle it up pretty quickly, though, because I don't want anything melting.

    I have a new carb from Holley sitting on the passenger seat of my truck because it's a little too complicated for my solo-automotive-expertise. Vacuum hoses SUCK. I just don't have the patience. I can do it no problem with the motor is out of the truck like what was done when three of us rebuilt the motor, but on my own when the motor is in is just too much for my lazy butt. :p
  • deuskiddeuskid Member Posts: 20
    s-10 extended cab w/ 4.3, auto trans. Has 107,xxx miles on it. How reliable is this engine? Gas milage [why don't they have a smaller 6 or a decent 4? just wondering]? When is the timing belt needed to be changed [not listed in the owner's manual]? thx
  • d3d477d3d477 Member Posts: 4
    bought our truck 7-24-02 about 6 months of ownership the tranny started to make a clattering noise like the throw out bearing was going out took it in they said it was normal noise. about a month ago it started making a noise like a j-brke noise when you let off the gas took it in they said normal noise so they refused to fix it now it makes the noise all the time is there any one who is experiencing the same noises please leave a message in the town hall thank you
  • laura2laura2 Member Posts: 1
    Is it really necessary to have the transmission fluid changed at 30K or is not? Not sure if I'm being taken or not? Any thoughts?
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    That might be a little early for a highway driven vehicle, not bad for a city driver. If you plan on keeping the machine for several years it's a very good idea to change the trans fluid regularly - if not - you can run it a long time without maintenance but it will shorten the life of it.
  • bigbutrbigbutr Member Posts: 111
    Recently took possession of a 1996 extended cab with the 4.3 vortec V-6 with just 63,200 miles for use on a rural mail route with the USPS. I'll only be using it twice to maybe three times a week for a 58 mile route, but, as you can assume, there is a lot of stop and go. Anyone have any advice on what fluids I should change out. I'm thinking of switching over to full synthetic oil and was wondering if there is some upgraded auto tranny fluid which would help as well. I'll be taking advantage of Midas' lifetime brake guarantee since I plan on working with the USPS for a while.
    FWIW, the truck was in immaculate condition, has nearly every option that was offered that year and looked nearly brand new. Old people take care of their stuff.
  • hillbillyhillbilly Member Posts: 6
    Well, definately change the oil and filter. I run synthetic in my 2000 Sonoma and I did in my prior '96 S-10. It will definately extend the life and health of your engine if you're willing to spend the extra change for the good stuff. If the the tranny fluid and filter have never been changed you're gonna want to do that too. As far as changing your coolant, if it has never been done it might be a good idea. Make sure you use the Orange stuff though or else you could have some problems. As far as other regular maintainence, make sure your brake and steering fluids are topped off and it might be a good idea to buy and new air filter as well, that can do wonders for your gas milage if yours is dirty. Well, hope that helps. Enjoy your truck. I had mine for 3 years and only a couple of minor, age related problems. It was a great truck. I just wanted 4x4.
  • slickracerslickracer Member Posts: 38
    You may want to have the cooling system pressure tested. You can almost bet the intake gaskets will be leaking soon. Mine were replaced at only 33,000 miles.
  • malibu1malibu1 Member Posts: 52
    I have a pretty noticeable squeak when turning right that just started recently. If I am holding the wheel stright or turning left - no squeak - just when I am making right turns. Could this be a break wear indicator? Let me know what you think.....thanks.


    98 S-10 2.2L LS Trim Stadard Cab - Two Wheel Drive
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Was wondering if anyone has replaced their O2 sensor(s) in their pickup. Have a 99 with 4.3 v6/auto.


    Also, has anyone replaced their cap and rotor (have the HVS ignition). The service manual states spark plug and wire replacement interval, but nothing on the O2 and the cap/rotor.


    Thanks for any help on this..
  • madridjoemadridjoe Member Posts: 28
    I replaced an O2 sensor in my 01 only because of a service eng. light, actually turned out that the sensor was not grounded. I may be wrong but I believe these sensors either work or not, I don't believe it is a maintenance item.


    Replaced the cap and rotor on my 95 due to obvious wear at the contacts at probably 75,000 mi.
  • flyingfinnflyingfinn Member Posts: 3
    Just for interest, here is an update on an old truck, that has been well taken care of. Good maintainance pays off!

    I own an '87 S-10 4x4 extended cab pickup 2.8V6, 4-spd auto transmission, 301,000 miles, original engine. It has lived thru 17 Minnesota winters! It is my daily driver, I commute 60 miles round-trip per day. 17 to 20 MPG. I love this truck, it is the best vehicle I have ever owned! But this truck is getting tired, and won't last forever!


    Anybody have good or bad experiences regarding the new Chevy Colorado or GMC Canyon? Particularly the 4x4 Crew Cab model with the in-line 5 cylinder engine?
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Thanks for the info. Just wanted to know if there was an interval for these items or not. Kind of basing it off my older vehicles, where it was recommended to replace them at the 30 - 40K mark, depending on the type you had (O2) and cap/rotor at the tune-up intervals.


    May I ask the number of O2 sensor you have. I have the 4.3 V6 and in looking up info, I've seen where 2 were listed (one before, one after the cat), but in another source it stated there were three used, two2 before the cat and one after?
  • s-i0ers-i0er Member Posts: 2
    Yes - I had to replace the handle. -

    What you do is take the handle off and there

    is a threaded rod on both sides of the inside

    of the handle, you can adjust these rods to

    either latch or unlatch easier just take the

    two screws off and play with it, i'm sure you'll

    get it.
  • s-i0ers-i0er Member Posts: 2
    I was wondering how to replace the PCV on

    top of the valve cover (smooth valve cover)

    on 2.2 ltr 4 cyl 2000 or newer. Tried twisting

    with channel locks and it won't budge.
  • 94blazers1094blazers10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 4.3L V6 94 Blazer. Maybe this will help? I replaced my O2 sensor. It's screwed into the top of the exhaust pipe going to the engine, under the front passenger side. It just screws in and out. Tough spot, but easier with the right socket. They sell a socket with a slit in the side for easier slip around the electrical connection. Use that. Also you'll have to disconnect the electrical connector next to it so it doesn't get in the way. Careful not to get the accompanying thread silicone on the sensor tip. That will cause problems. As far as the cap and rotor. Easy. Just make sure you put the spark plug wires in the same order on the cap as the old one. The rotor and cap are easy to remove and replace, just screws. hope this helps. Always remove the battery cable to disconnect power source before working on anything. Lastly, Go to for shop manuals for our vehicle or any GM vehicle. I bought mine years ago for $120, 3 huge manuals. Now the price is $30 for those same 3 detailed shop manuals.
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Thanks for the info. I purchased the socket a long time ago when I bought O2s for my other vehicles. Also know about the silicone on the threads and not getting it on the tip. Was just really wondering if there was a specific interval. Have a shop manual as well, but not sure of th 3-manual one covers it. The passenger-side one near the cat not too bad getting to, was able to see it when I drop the trans pan to do a fluid/filter change.

    The cap/rotor is different on mine (99) and yours, particularly the rotor. The HVS system is used on the newer vortecs, think they started this system in 98? when the injection system changed. 94s still used the HEI II right (non-integral coil)?
  • qamarqamar Member Posts: 2
    Hi Guys
    I have recently purchased this truck. It runs fine. I have noticed the sound of water coming up from the passenger side. May be the AC ducks are clogged or what is it.
    The coolant level is ok. Any help will be appreciated.
  • aharris680aharris680 Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys,
    I have a 2002 Blazer 4x4 V6 Automatic. It is due for a 60,000 mile service. The dealer is trying to get me to do all kinds of items that are not in the service manual, the 3 expensive ones being a full fuel system service, power steering flush, brake system flush. Does anyone know what all I should actually do for the 60,000 mile service on a Blazer.
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