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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance



  • EGR passages are blocked ... remove and clean EGR Valve, clean intake manifold of carbon and replace gasket with one from TOMCO Inc. part # 2-1357 (Klean Screen Gasket) ...actualy two gaskets with a tungsten screen in between. It is supposed to get so hot it burns any carbon before it gets in the valve...

    Good luck...
  • kolivekolive Posts: 1
    The service enging light came on in our S10 right as it hit 60K, but went back off at 60,001. Our mechanic says he doesn't think the early 90s models are made to come on for schedualed maintanence. The only cause for concern is that we had a '94 blazer in which the light came on and wnet back off immediately, but later in the day had a major breakdown. Does anyone know if the light should just come on for maintanence and if so, shouldn't it stay on longer than 1 mile. Thanks for any help. :confuse:
  • cube1cube1 Posts: 3
    :shades: check your oxygen sensor.....i bet it is the problem
  • cube1cube1 Posts: 3
    my brake light and abs light turn on simultaneously as i drive on the road at times...any one know anything on it?...i appreciate it
  • cube1cube1 Posts: 3
    my blazer started to become a problem when i try to rev up on doesn't want to die it just wants to kinda stay in has to rev up slow in order to go....if you give it gas it won't go as fast as it should...any suggestions?
  • hard2fixhard2fix Posts: 1
    i had the same thing .the fix is to use a dremel cut off wheel on the rubber hose to metal line connection .it sort of looks like a barrel shape where they meet .don't cut into the hose just through the barrel shaped metal fitting .to get to where they meet you need to unbolt the skid plate which should be plastic .there is a half inch bolt that un bolts from the oil block adapter that bolts to the underside of the block .all of the blolts are 1/2 inch .you may even have to unbolt the flywheel plate which has 3 bolts holding it on mine did anyway .hope this helps this the way i did mine .there wasn't a thing about repairing it in my manual
  • '94 S10 Blazer (150k)

    My brakes intermittently get very hard, with no stopping power. Sometimes I can push through this, but other times I have to let it up completely and try again. Usually the second or third time after I let it up, it depresses fully and normally.

    The problem only occurs after I have been driving for awhile. The first 15 minutes each time I drive it are usually fine, but then the problem gets worse the longer I go. Eventually the ABS and brake warning lights will come on, but that takes a long time, and I've only had that happen once or twice.

    Other symptoms include a low and soft grinding noise when it happens, and hot front rims after I've been driving.

    Front calipers and pads are new, and the rear drums are new.

    I've been doing okay going back and forth from work, but I have to drive half-way across the country in a couple weeks. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
  • Same problem from #100...

    I just put my front end up and noticed that the driver's side front wheel doesn't spin as freely as the passenger's side front. I get at least a full revolution when I spin the passenger's side wheel, and at most 1/8th of a revolution on the driver's side.
  • dhatterdhatter Posts: 1
    1. I just bought a 93 S-10 Blazer knowing the 4WD doesn't work (got a killer deal!). When you press the 4hi or 4lo switch you can hear something engage/disengage under the truck. If that much seems to be working, where could the problem be? I'm sure the 4WD doesn't work because I made them put it on a lift to verify if works or not.

    2. Can the analog instrument cluster be switched with the digital one? What modifications are necessary to make it happen?
  • warloc72warloc72 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same promblem with my 04' Blazer. When I run the AC I hear this Blowing Noise and I start loosing power like the tranny is slipping or something. The dealer told me that it's the fan blowing 3X's faster under extreme heat and that the lack of power could be caused by low fuel gade and clogged fuel filter. I don't think so. When I first bought this car I had to be very carful not to spin the tires, now the tires might spin on a wet road. I'll try the fuel filter to see what happens.
  • paulchapaulcha Posts: 2
    Hi everyone

    I hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Here is my problem I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 it seems that my egr valve keeps getting clogged up with carbon I went ahead and took it off and cleaned it out but that only lasted a couple of weeks it's doing the same thing again I took it apart again and found more carbon they were almost like little rocks of carbon. I tried looking online for some help on cleaning out the egr and I guess the intake but not much help found can someone help me resolve this problem. Is there something I can buy to clean out the carbon and is there somewhere I can get directions on how to take apart the intake if I have to. Thank You for the help!!!!!!
  • blazer5blazer5 Posts: 5
    Since no one answered my last question regarding my engine problems I thought I would try again. Blazer would not pass smog. Had a valve job done, installed the heads myself. Also installed new spark plugs,wires,cap,rotor,O2 sensor,Catalytic Converter,muffler,exhaust pipes,all air filters,and some vacuum lines. And it would not start. I then compression tested all cylinders with #1 30psi,#2 0psi,#3 30psi,#4 30psi, #5 0psi, #6 30psi. All extremely low. I was tolded they should be around 159psi. How do I increase the psi. I was told to tightened or loosen the intake rocker arm. Also, I called the 4 top auto parts stores and 2 dealers and they could not tell me what was the #1 terminal on the distributor cap so I could align it with the rotor and #1 cylinder at TDC. Can anyone please help with my problems. Thank You.
  • trishypootrishypoo Posts: 1
    Heres the deal, I'm at home and my truck is waiting to be towed home and I was told it sounds like my fuel pump is dead could someone tell me how to replace it since i cannot afford to take it to a shop and i'm wanting to learn to do it myself anyway. I cannot be without a car I have 3 kids and lots going on. I use to work on my camaro till my ex blew the engine while i was on vacation and left it sitting and the city took it. ANYWAY i could use some help and info i can get a pump and filter for $60 with a life time garunteen. i already checked. :cry:
    It is a vortech V6 TBI 4x4
  • paulchapaulcha Posts: 2
    Hi everyone

    I hope someone can lead me in the right direction. Here is my problem I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4 it seems that my egr valve keeps getting clogged up with carbon I went ahead and took it off and cleaned it out but that only lasted a couple of weeks it's doing the same thing again I took it apart again and found more carbon they were almost like little rocks of carbon. I tried looking online for some help on cleaning out the egr and I guess the intake but not much help found can someone help me resolve this problem. Is there something I can buy to clean out the carbon and is there somewhere I can get directions on how to take apart the intake if I have to. Thank You for the help!!!!!!
  • fred62fred62 Posts: 1
    My chevy S10 pickup will become hard to start when the fuel level goes below about one-quarter of a tank. It starts well with a full tank. A local garage said their tests showed the computer to be at fault. I now have a new computer in the truck but it is still hard to start when the gas is low. Any suggestions?
  • jae5jae5 Posts: 1,206
    If you don't have a manual, which you should have had b4 you took the heads off, get a manual. Don't rely on the parts store people, not trying to put anyone that works/worked at a parts store, but in most cases many are just working there to get a check. This will have a listing of torque specifications, tightening sequence, also will have pic of the wire routing. You seriously need the book and need to read it before you dive back in.

    Second, you may have the distributor 180-out. I'm guessing you didn't bring #1 to TDC, mark the position of the rotor to the relation of the body before you took everything apart. Or just left the motor as is, mark the locations, pull the distributor straight out, left that alone, and put it back in? Did you at least mark the distributor where the wires went and how they were routed? One trick you can try, and it doesn't work all the time be may in this case, is to place the old distributor cap w/wires still connected (they're still connected right?), onto the distributor, and go one at a time, longest to short, and see where they fall. This could at least give you a guesstimate. Not sure distributor caps are marked anymore. Last ones I saw marked where the FOMOCOs, and that was LONG time ago. But again, get a manual!!

    Tightening the rocker arms won't help on the compression, who told you that? :confuse: Pull a Moe/Larry/Curly and give them a slap on the head and an eye-gouge. :P It'll help if you have pushrod noise, tightening a little can quiet a pushrod down. But in terms of raising compression, haven't heard that one before. Is the idea that the valve is staying open and by tightening/loosening the rocker the valve will move up/down and eventually stay close? If that's the case, then either the valve job was bad, the seats/valves are at a major mismatch,letting air/fuel mix just blow-by or the heads are junk. Assuming you had the valve job done due to excessive blow-by? Also, don't tighten too much or you will ruin the lifter and cam lobe in a hurry.

    Sounds like you may have a ring problem. Do you hear air passing through anything or any openings? How's the cranking, strong? With those low compressions you're engine isn't going to start, period. I would want to pull those heads off, make sure they're flat, check the seat/bowl/valve areas for cracks or other damage, then re-torque them (correct procedure, sequence, torque spec.).

    As a last resort, tow the Blazer to some that knows what they're doing and have them get it in running order. Or call them over. But in any even get a manual and read it.
  • roldawg91roldawg91 Posts: 1
    Yeah, my 94 S10Blazer, 115,000 Tahoe LT 4.3 V6 Automatic is doing that exact same thing. I bout it 3 weeks ago and had barely put 1200 miles on it before it started. Yesterday i took it into a shop and they messed around with it for a couple hours looking at stuff. They had to drive it and They told me it was the Front Diff Assembly. They said the part for it was 412.00 and labor would be 500.
    So, i'm hoping that they're wrong, i'm going to bring it to another mechanich tomarrow. You don't happen to know what it is do you?
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Help me someone. This is posted on the open forum 7-14-05. But here goes again. My 87-Tahao S-10 has developed an electrical problem with the courtesy light's. Believe it or not I have exchange 5 batteries in the last 5-month's due to this problem. Walmart's and O'riely's have been kind in this matter but it was O'riely's that that convienced me that I had a drain instead of battery problem. Now I've traced the problem down to the area of the fuse block. Pull the fuse for the courtesy light's , they want go off, pull the fuse for the horn and they go off. These are 20-amp fuses's. The horn fuse is just above the courtesy light fuse. How difficult is it to drop the fuse assembly board? Also it it possiable that that is where the problem is? Thank's, Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    After turning key on to start, let all the buzzer's and horn's stop blowing and then try starting. Or like I do hit the starter for a few turn's and shut off then try again. Work's for me. Probably a weak elec. fuel pump. Bozie
  • i have a prob with my brakes. It starts and drives fine but every once in awhile ill go to hit my brakes and they will be hard as a rock. i cant budge them at all. the abs light comes on when it hit 15 mph and turns off when i drop below that. and sometimes the brake light will come on as well. the code reads 38(wheel speed error) but i cant see how that would cause the pedal to lock up like that. the booster seems to work fine and the master still seems to be good. I would appreciate any insight anyone has on this since no mechanic i have talked with has ever dealt with something like this.
  • by brakes i mean just the pedal.
  • erikseriks Posts: 1
    I have a (new to me) 87 blazer and the tailgate lock does not open the tailgate itself. It will release the window and makes a clicking sound, but nothing.

    Is there a way to open the tailgate manually? I would like to change out the lock and so on, but can't get to it.

    Thanks for any help!!! :mad:
  • henrymwhenrymw Posts: 2
    I have a 1989 S-10 Blazer, 4.3L V6. I stripped the oil pan plug thread and thinking about replacing the oil pan. I looked under there and it seemed rather simple: take off the screws around it, pop it off, get new gasket, sealant, etc. However, on some Japanese cars I had to jack up the transmission, remove the support in order to get to the last 3 screws of the oil pan. That seems like a job for a mechanic. Please let me know what is involved.

    Thank you,
  • henrymwhenrymw Posts: 2
    i had the same problem about 2 months ago. the handle that released the glass and the tailgate(depending on which way you turn it) just spun around. The lock replacement is quite an involved task. You can do it the hard way and get it replaced and mached to your keys. Or you can do what I did: cut a small hole in the top-center of the plastic panel so you can push down on the lever to release the glass. Then cut two more holes on the sides (mid-way up-down) to release the tail gate. My holes are rather small, but are easy to stick fingers into. I figured, with the truck that old I wanted to keep it running without spending much effort on appearances. The easiest way to find where to cut holes is to remove the panel, find all levers, and then super-impose the panel and mark where to cut. Hope this helps.

  • dcart1dcart1 Posts: 2
    Had the same problem turns out that there are two different fuel pumps for the 93. They have two different vin # W and V. I have a W but the part store sold me and I installed a V. I could hear it buzz and it had some pressure but would not start. I installed the correct fuel pump and it started fine. I don't know if this will help you but it is worth looking in to.
  • dcart1dcart1 Posts: 2
    I'm not sure about the 4X4 problem but I have a digital cluster as well. It can not be exchanged or at least thats what the dealer told me.
  • drglinskidrglinski Posts: 4
    I am not much of a mechanic but I have heard of a vapor lock problem; basically when the engine gets incredibly warm the fuel actually boils before it can reach the engine therefore causing it to stall. Although I have heard of this more on a carbuerated engine than a fuel injected engine; I dunno it is a thought.
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    I have shared this problem several time's in form discussion on other pages with few answer's and no result's. Today I replaced the right door jam switch. Finding only 1-single wire compaired to 2-wires to the left door jam switch. Keep in mind I have tried every thing I know to do except remove the fuse block. To bring me to believe there is a cross-over in the fuse block, by pulling the courtesy light fuse you get nothing. Light's stay on. Pull the horn fuse, courtesy light's, horn and radio go off. Need to know the amount of difficulty represented here to remove the plugs on firewall under hood and screw's etc. under dash. Rate this job for me. 1 being easy and 10 being hard. Thanks , Bozie
  • contuckscontucks Posts: 2
    well i am not sure what the noise is but i have a loud humming when someone heavy get in the blazer with soon as they get out it stops.. i know it is the weight but why?..I can't find it anywhere looked at everthing tried everthing i could to locate it .. it may be the same as yours i am not sure but if i fine it i will let you know...
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