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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance



  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    I believe I've got your solution. If you went by the book on setting your Hydrolic Valve's on the over hual forget it -it want start or run. Your're loosing your compression there-/ Do this - Back off on all you valves untill it start's. Let em rattle and while running adjust to the rattle only is out/ dont't over adjust- This is called by ear if you know what I mean. It is really the only way to have any luck- GOOD LUCK, Bozie
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Seem's as though I'm just a good ol chap this morning giving out info and not getting any-Ha Ha- Your problem is in the loss of vaccum I betcha. You either have a hose connection problem or something is robbing the vaccum away from the break system. Hope this help's, Have a good day, Bozie
  • tfeftfef Posts: 1
    I cannot find this in my owner's manual, so I am hoping to get some advice and information before I go to a repair shop. This is a 1996 S10 Pickup. There is a warning light below the headlight switch on the dashboard. It is blinking all the time. The light that shows what gear I am in is blinking nonstop. The wipers work sometimes and sometimes they do not. The buzzer that tells me I have left my lights on has quit buzzing. At first I thought the motor on the wipers might be going out until all this blinking light stuff started happening. Is all this connected? Do I have an electrical problem or is some part going out? The truck runs great otherwise. I am perplexed.
  • flyboy25flyboy25 Posts: 3
    I have a 94 S-10 Blazer with 200 Hp Vortec V-6 CPI that is on its third thermostat in 18 months. The last was an AC Delco and it failed in 5 days. All have failed partially open. Any ideas - anyone?
  • flyboy25flyboy25 Posts: 3
    The fuel pump is in the gas tank and the tank has to be dropped from the frame to replace it. I lost three pumps in the first 60k miles. The last one has lasted 80k miles. I was told to replace the fuel filter every year and to NEVER let the fuel level drop below 1/4 tank. The latest Chevy pump seems to be a winner.
  • rstreet1rstreet1 Posts: 1
    If your paying 2500.00 or less it would be a good investment.
  • 77vette77vette Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. The root cause of the problem was a very small leak from the water pump. When I replaced the pump and flushed the system it cured the leak issue. It took a week of monitoring the coolant level in the overflow tank before all the trapped air was "burped" from the system. I haven't had the problem since.
  • tbagtbag Posts: 1
    hey i had this same problem with my 97 s-10 their is a part underneath the truck battery that pulls a cabel to engage the 4 wheel
    the way you decribe the problem with the 4 low engaging im sure that this has to be it. i dont remember what the part is called but i got one at the delear for about 90 bucks and it took about 10 min to install. its bolted on to the body if you look up the wheel well on the front passanger side you should be able to see the bolts holding it in place anyways i hope this helps you and by the way if yours has the limited slip let me just tell you the 4 wheelin is awesome ive had so much fun in my truck good luck
  • help, college student need repaired truck. truck died and replaced fuel pump, fuel strainer, fuel filter. got more than 3 gallons of gas. more than 100,000 miles on it. what else? everything else has been checked. It can be forced to be turn on by putting a little gas in the carb. when attempting to accelerate on its own it wont. please someone help me? :cry: ">
  • My 2000 chevy s10 works perfectly until the security light comes on.It will still start if its on but if its blinking it wont start up.It takes me at least 15 mins on the good days then to make it start my keep turning the key on and off.Can anybody help me and tell me whats wrong with it what i might need to replace?
  • Recently I have been finding engine oil in the radiator of my 1986 S10 Blazer with a 2.8L engine. I changed the head, intake, and timing chain cover gaskets and I am still getting oil in the radiator. It is definitely engine oil since the oil level is dropping. This engine does not have an engine oil cooler. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Don't know if you've got this worked out or not - but you might check all the vacuum lines. From the charcoal cannister - across the firewall to the vacuum connections it makes... I had to replace about 6-feet of vacuum lines on my '95 Blazer this last spring... they were all cracked & falling apart.

    Rex S.
  • You may have a stuck relay that's after the fuse connections that is causinf the electrical drain. Check for a wiring schematic or diagram to see what relays are in teh circuit you mention... then start checking relays. If one's stuck in a closed position, it'll drain that battery.
  • Last spring (over a year ago) I changed the plugs, Dist. cap & rotor, and plug wires on my '95 S10 Blazer.

    Ever since then, it runs VERY rough when at idle (stopped or at a red light, etc.). I have checked to make sure I got all the wires going to the correct cylinders from the distributor cap. (I've now got 118,000 miles on the beast)

    Then this last spring I made a cross country trip from Texas to Virginia... halfway through Tennessee, the Check Engine light came on intermittently... I took it to 2 dealers (Tennessee and Virginia) and neither could figure out what was wrong. One changed my thermostat,and the other charged me $300 to change 6-inces of vacuum line and to spray out the carbon from the intake.

    After I returned to Texas, I replaced another 6 feet of cracked/falling apart vacuum lines.. but I still have a VERY rough idle.. I'm getting some dieseling when I shut off the Blazer, and when I start it up, I smell a DISTINCT smell of gasoline - and sometimes a rotten egg smell.

    a) I had the catalytic converter changed about 2 years ago - I don't *think* that would be the problem.

    b) When changing the plugs/wires - I *did* get a couple of them swapped for a second. I fixed it immediately.. But could I have done any valve damage by starting it up with a bad firing order?

    c) I changed the o2 sensor when I returned to Texas.. still rough & smelly (the Blazer - not me).

    d) EGR valve was changed waaaaayyy back at about 50,000 miles - under Mfg Exhaust system warranty. Both dealers told me that EGR valve couldn't be the problem I was experiencing - though to ME it gave the same symtoms - rough idle, wanted to die at low idle...

    Would it be worth my time to simply get a timing light to see if my timing was knocked out of whack when I changed the distributor cap & rotor? Or does anyone here have any other suggestions?

    Rex S.
  • my 93 blazer is working fine except for all this white smoke it puffs for 10-12 minutes then its fine. It used to smoke just a bit after sitting for a while but it was no big deal but now if i give it gas it smokes like crazy,lots of white smoke and i mean lots!. after it goes away it doesnt smoke until next time i start it up. any ideas? many thanks in advance
  • kevlorkevlor Posts: 5
    My wife came home with her blazer stuck in 4wd when i'd push the 2wd button nothing happened even when moving back and forth. started checking fuses none blown, changed fuse in 4wd any way pushed 2wd button got out of 4wd tried to put back in 4wd won't go but will go into 4wd low ??? have left alone since it stays in 2wd but need to find problem before winter any suggestions?? thanks
  • Over the past year I have been pouring my money into the 1985 chevy s-10 blazer (manual transmission) that I bought from my high school for a slim $100. In the month of july I spent just under $1300 on a totally new exhaust system and the rear differential. I am 17 and just got my license so I'm itching to drive, but after I got my car back the the muffler shop It was very hard to shift. It didn't start until a few days after the work was done, but you start the car and have about 30 seconds to shift cleanly and then everything goes downhill. In order to shift after that time I need to use all of my strength to force the stick into the gears (and i'm not exactly weak). At first I was thinking that it was the clutch, I had just replaced that myself last year, but then I noticed that after the car is turned off it is still very hard to put in gear for at least a half hour. School has not started so I can't use the shop to even try so find out what is wrong or try to fix it. I'm out of money, patience, and out of a job until I fix it. I'm desperate, please help!!! :sick:
  • Smoke:

    Blue = Oil
    Black = To Rich
    White = Could be moisture in the engine. That may be moisture in the exhaust system
    boiling off as it heats up. If so, the volume will diminish after the engine warms up... The bad news is that there's definitely the possibility of a cracked block or blown gasket causing coolant into the engine's combustion area. Change or check your oil and look carefuily to see if there's any antifreeze or water in the oil. Check your coolant to see if there's any oil in the coolant. That'll give you a place to start the diagnosis.
  • You posted this a while ago so I'm not sure if it will help, but I recently had the same problem in my '85 s-10. First the distributor was on backwards, second I had tried to turn the car on when the distributor was off. This caused the rotor to align in the wrong place, in order to find where to put the spark plug wires I had to take off the distributor and take the spark plug out of cylinder one, then stick my finger in the hole where the spark plug was and have my friend turn the engine over. The car won't start. but you will feel the piston move and when you feel that it is at the top look at the rotor. The rotor will know point at the spot were you need to put spark plug wire one. Then move clockwise until you have every thing hooked up. Keep in mind that the rotor moving caused the spot of wire one to change, so if that is the case the wires will be in a completely different spot than a diagram or manual says they should be. Hope this helps. :)
  • I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Pickup LS/2x4/Auto/4.3 V6/77,000 mi. The vortec V6 has a carb. rather than fuel injection. The problem I am having is a large field of electrical noise emanating from the engine into the cab, totally disrupting my AM radio reception (and not allowing me to listen to the Pats & Red Sox during my long trips in to work!). This interference occurred with both the factory radio and the brand new Pioneer deck I had installed. I also tried installing an antenna isolator between the antenna and the deck, but no luck. This is not alternator whine, but full fledged interference. It only occurs on the AM band, not on FM or when listening to CD's. This interference only occurs while the car is running. Not only does the truck's installed radio receive this interference, but a portable radio I brought into the cab also has the same problem. I moved the portable radio around the car and under the hood to see where the most noise is coming from and it seems to be centered in the distributor/engine block area. My question to everyone is what would be causing this, and what would be a solution? The engine itself runs great, so I am hesitant to mess around with it too much. Would a full tune-up/wire & spark plug replacement remedy the situation? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • My '93 had similar symptoms....rough idle at low speed or when stopped (wanted to quit), loss of braking ability and foul exhaust smell. Check engine light would come on. BUT it seemed to run alright on the highway.
    Problem was a carbon chunk lodged beneath the pin in the EGR valve.
    Happened first time on vacation so I paid too much to have the problem fixed. Next time I did it myself...then again, and again, and again. Finally found a permanent fix via internet forum. Bought a $5 gasket with a built in screen. Not a single problem since. Catches the larger carbon particles before they can enter the valve. If loose carbon buildup is your problem, a new EGR valve won't fix it.
    Check out this site
    You can buy at local auto parts stores, too. Tomco should be able to give you local retailers who carry it.
    Hope this may help.
  • teresa5teresa5 Posts: 4
    Mine stuck many times, we have had it replaced like 12 or 13 times since we've had it. This last time it stuck open, the service engine light started blinking, and now we are looking for a motor, it leaked gas in the crankshaft. Let me tell you, if it is the side mounted spark plugs, there was to types of motors made that year, you can not find one anywhere. They told me to use the reg. gas, not the upper grade, and it helped my problem. Have you had any problems with the tranmission? We just put a new one it ours before the motor went.......
  • teresa5teresa5 Posts: 4
    Does anyone out there know of anywhere we can get a motor for our 1995 Chevy Blazer 4X4 4.3 it is the one that has the side mounted spark plugs? In need of one bad...Or know of anyone wanting a blazer? Excellent shape, just had the transmission, or a new one put in, almost two weeks before my egv valve stuck open and leaked oil in my crankshaft. Has to be the side mounted spark plug motor...Thanks
  • I am trying to replace the turnsignal switch on my blazer. The multi-function lever remains in the down position as if you were making a left turn. The lever will not stay in the neutral nor the right turn position. No clicking sound as you move it and blinkers do not work but the hi/lo beam and wiper switches work. My chilton manual gives two sets of instructions for replacing the turnsignal switch along with some illustrations. One set is for 1983 through 1991 and the other is for 1992-1993. Both sets say to disconnect the neg battery terminal, matchmark and remove the steering wheel. It is after doing this i begin to have the problem. For 83-91 the manual says "insert a small prytool into the slots between the steering shaft lock plate cover and the steering column housing, then pry upward to remove the cover from the lock plate." for 92-93 the manual just says "Remove the shaft lock cover." I assumed you're to pry it up. Using screw drivers I tried to do just that to what i believe to be the lock plate cover but to no avail. The illustration in the manual of the column with the steering wheel removed doesn't look anything like my column. This prying caused marks in the vinyl column housing. Then in frustration i used the compressor tool to push down the shaft lock plate and remove the snapring and then slowly removed the tool(thinking the plate and the cover would come off together). The plate came up but stopped when it came against what I'm calling the cover. I’ve posted pics & instructions out on a web site. Take a look.
    93Blazer001,005,006 are pics of my column.

    ReadmePg1 is my 2 cents.

    HowTopg1 & Pg2 is chiltons instructions.


  • I have a 86 Chevy s10 V6 Pickup. This morning I went to start it and it just clicked. Power came on and all that but it wouldn't turn over. After about five minutes of trying it sounded like it pushed its self to turn over. Almost a grinding sound but not? Any ideas of what could be wrong? :confuse:
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    the little pot metal slider that actuates the on/start rod broke. I can jerry-rig to use for now, but how do I get inside the plastic sleeve around the column? How do I remove the collar to which the shift lever (auto) is attached? Do I have to find the entire steering column? If so, where? Oh- it's a 1985 S10, 2.8L 4X4,AT,AC Sport . HELP!! :cry:
  • Can anyone tell me which wires get connected to the starter on a 1995 S10 Blazer 4.3L Vin-W Engine.
    I replaced the engine and I forgot to label a couple of wires as well as the posts on the starter itself.
    Essentially, I have a total of three wires that can possibly go to the starter and though I have some idea where these probably go, it would be a great help to have some certainty of their position.
    First of all there are two wires that originate from the battery's positive lead. One of the wires is thick, it is colored black and its end terminal fits a 5/16" stud. The stated terminal end has a bent prong. I am pretty sure that this wire goes to the starter and fits on the 5/16" stud facing towards the wheel well with the slotted base base (to accomodate the bent prong). The other wire originates at the same place, is red and not as thick with a 5/16" round terminal connection. Where the hell does this one go? :confuse:
    Also, there is a green wire with a black plastic corrugated jacket that originates from the same wiring bundle (behind where the radiator hose goes behind the alternator) that the wires to the EGR, IAT, Throttle Position Sensor, MAP Sensor etc... originate. This wire has a small round connector at the terminal end which seems to fit an 1/8" stud and seems to run down the front of the engine on the timing chain cover and come out where the crankcase position sensor is located. I would think this wire goes to the small 1/8" stud on the starter?
    It would really make my day if anyone can tell me how the starter gets connected or can send me a picture of a correctly connected starter for this motor. Or can tell me where the stated wires get connected.
  • I recently changed the radiator on my 90 S-10 Blazer and now I have oil settling on the top of the antifreeze. Could this mean I need to change the water pump now or what. I also have a lot of white smoke coming out of the tail pipe now. Please help! :cry:
  • I am having similar problems with my 90 S-10 Blazer, I've changed the radiator because it had a bad leak and now I have oil in it. Should I change the water pump? I also have white smoke coming out the tail pipe. Does anyone know what is causing that and how to stop it.
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