Hi, I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla with approx 59,000 miles on it. I recently took it in to the Toyota dealership for a check-up and they said the rear brakes only have 20% of their life left (aka, 80% worn).
They said I didn't need to replace them yet (I didn't), but I was wondering how much longer they would last. I am under the impression that rear brakes last much longer than front brakes, but was hoping for some insight on how much longer the rears would last.
Our '99 and '01 manuals state to not exceed 55 mph, don't use the cruise control, vary your speed (don't drive long periods at the same speed), don't red line it, for 1,000 miles. Also, don't hit the brakes too hard (if you can avoid it) for the first 200 miles. The real key point is to vary your speed!
Im a little confused.My 2006 Corolla Manual says " Your Vehicle does not need an Elaborate break in period". Ive been flucuating between varying speeds between 50 and 60 MPH. The drivers on the parkway hate my gutts.
The break in procedure recommended by mcdawgg is not elaborate. As he summarized, just vary the speed - don't lock it it for a long period. I personally wouldn't think 1000 miles is needed. Maybe only 500. Where does the 1000 come from mcd?
I have a 2003 Corolla that's coming up to the 30,000 mile mark.The dealer's advisor said that I should have the fuel filter replaced,for the tune of $95.00. Is he blowing smoke, or is he correct?
i had just recently visited my local toyota dealer for parts. i asked about corolla 2003 fuel filter. i was told that the filter is inside the gas tank and does not need to be replaced--it is permanent. thanks.
i use the dipstick tube to refill transmission fluid. buy a long slender funnel (as opposed to a short one) to fit in the mouth of the tube--this will prevent the fluid from coming back out as you pour it into the dipstick tube. i bought this yellow funnel at auto zone for a dollar. thanks.
Yes, dealer is full of IT. Just do what your owner's manual says, and I know that it does NOT say to replace the fuel filter, ever. It would be fun to go back to that same person at the dealership and confront him/her with the owner's manual!
The last time the fuel filter needed to be replaced on a Corolla was a 1997 model or earlier.
I am trying to replace the ignition swith on a 96 Toyota Corolla. I have the new switch and key but cannot figure out how to get the old one out. Does anyone have an idea on how to remove the old tumbler assembly?
I posted message #271. I did get the lock cylinder changed and got the car started, but now it is stuck in park. I opened the hole by the shifter to try and manually override the parking lock but that does nothing. Anyone know what else I can try?
I am new and clueless, just sick of giving mechanics the upper hand. I just had my 98 serviced. He too told me that my fuel filter needs to be replaced. I guess he is full of it. He also said my coolant serviced and steering fluid. This is after I paid $600 for a tensioner, minor tune up, and oil change. My car only has 51,000 miles on it. MY battery light keeps coming on and off, it's not the battery. If it was the alternator wouldn't they have noticed that in the tune up? Could it be a short or a glitch? I am glad I told him not to replace the plugs. Also if they are platinum, why would they have to be replaced? Any help/aDVICE would be highly appreciated. Thanks in advance. ">
Fuel filter does not need to be replaced. I would drain and fill coolant every 30k or 3 years. The battery light is probably either a battery or alternator, is this the original battery? If so, replace battery first. The plugs should be replaced every 30k. Corollas did not get platinum until 2000 models.
Please check your owner's manual maintenance supplement- it will tell you what needs to be done and when. Then you can show the mechanic that 98 and newer do not need fuel filter changed. The 97's fuel filters are under the hood, on the firewall driver's side. The '98 and newer are in the fuel tank.
Thank you so much! Would I never have to replace plugs? Or just that I don't need the platinum ones? It is not the original battery, and when they did the tune up they said everything but the tensioner was fine. He went on the name alternator, brakes, transmission. The battery light only goes on when I am driving, no one else has been fortunate enough to see it!! I really appreciate all these answers!! I can't wait to call him back and tell him. I will look in my owners manual later.
The alternator should be checked for proper output, but it could be something else, like a loose wire or bad fuse, etc. etc. They would not check this in a normal tune-up. Does the battery light go on and off intermittently? How often?
that's great that you got the ignition tumbler changed. did you do it yourself or was it done professionally? I'm having the same problem. I can't even place the key to "ACC", as an instruction indicated. I'm completely stumped. I tried just about everything. I have a manual tranny. Unfortunately, I'm have no answer as to why your shifter is locking up even when you're trying to override it. Lots of luck on that one.
The check engine light on my '99 Corolla came on yesterday so I took it to Autozone to have them pull the fault code. They said my purge valve needs to be replaced. Of course they don't sell this item, so I had to call the dealer. They said the whole purge valve canister has to be purchased which is.......drum roll please........$225. That's not a typo, yes I said $225. They have got to be kidding me! Why is it the auto parts places only sell certain parts, and the rest you HAVE to get from the dealers? It's like they've got some kind of monopoly going on certain parts so they set the price ridiculously high. I checked on ebay, but no luck. Where can I buy a reasonably priced purge valve for this car?
I think I may have done a wasteful thing...I am somewhat old school in some regards. We bought a new LE at and 2k miles I just changed the oil. Was this done needlessly? My mindset it we plan to keep this car for a decade...or longer...and so I will do some overkill in replacing the fluids. But I don't want to be stupid about it.
I do my own oil changes...takes all of 10 minutes on a Corolla...and am putting in Mobil 1 5W30. What interval is good? Historically I have been a 3k miles kind of guy but if it doesn't make sense I won't do it...and driving conditions here are not particularly severe though summers can be hot. But understand that with one daughter in college who will graduate next year then will pursue her master's and another daughter starting college next fall...we plan on keeping this thing for a v-e-r-y long time. Which is a major impactor on why we chose the Corolla in the first place. Also be aware that my wife is Korean-American and some stereotypes do hold true to some degree...such as driving habits. Riding with her is like going on a carnival ride. No accidents though...
Not so much wasteful as unwise. 2k is not long enough for proper engine break-in. You sould have run it to 5k with the factory oil, ESPECIALLY since you've put in M1.
Check out one of the several synthetic oil chat boards. I think you'll find M1 people changing oil at 10k or more.
When I bought my '05, it came with "free" oil changes every 5k to 20k. All of them have been with M1 provided by me. Now that I'm at 20k with no more free service every 5k, I'm switching to every 10k still with M1. But that's just me. BTW at 10k OCI's, I plan to keep it 10 years, too.
Unwise? Okay...in your opinion, what should I do? Should I go down to Toyota and purchase "factory" oil? What is factory oil? Special additives in it? Special weight?
....if you get a check engine light and the fault codes indicate an EVAP emission purge flow fault or vent circuit malfunction, replace the gas cap first. The gas cap is the most common cause of this fault, and the least expensive to replace. The next two causes would be the tank bypass valve (many times improperly referred to as the purge valve), or the actual purge valve (only found on '01 and later models), in that order.
I have the original transmission that came with the car. what kind it is i don't know. As for the battery light, it comes on intermittantly. It comes on goes off, comes on, goes off. I think the longest it stayed on was like 3 minutes then went off, and then came back on, kinda of like the light was blinking. It can stay off for a while and then comes back on. I think it is a fuse or wire, but then again what do i know????
Took the car to the dealer for a stalling engine and they told me that I had a bad MAF sensor, so told them to replace...charged me an arm and a leg for it...they also recommended that I get a fuel injector flush and an induction flush...I felt like they were just trying to pump me for more dough...didn't have the money to do it, so just said bag it...are they trying to get more money out of me or are they being upfront? [haven't been good to the car, but have been doing regular oil changes and maintenance tho]
They might have ripped you off on the MAF sensor as well as frequently all that is really needed to is to clean the MAF sensor with a $4 can of contact cleaner. It takes less than 5 minutes to replace a MAF sensor and you can get an aftermarket one for about $100, IIRC.
How much did they charge for the new MAF sensor? What year is your Corolla and how many miles are on it?
I did my first oil change at the dealer for my 2006 Corolla LE @ 2000 miles. Somehow I choose the Valvoline SynPower, which cost me about $50. So should I stick to this Synthetics oil or should I switch to other cheaper brands. Most of my milage will be local and I'm living mid-west.
I just bought my 2000 Corolla and one of the reasons I got it so cheap was that the seller was told by the dealer that it needed a $500 MAF sensor. I did enough research to figure out that it was usually a simple cheap solution and took the risk and bought the car. I got a check engine light, had the code read as P0171 (I think that is what is was). Bought a can of contact cleaner, took me 5 minutes to spray some on the MAF and the CEL went away.
I don't know anything about the fuel injector or induction flush. Ask over at Corolland
Just read your info about Check Engine Light on, My car, 2001 Toyota Corolla with 53000km. get three error code, P0440-EVAP control Sys; P0441-EVAP Sys Purgeflow low; P0446-EVAP vent solenoid pro; These three code get back again and again after I reset each time. Do you think I should replace the gas cap? it looks nothing wrong with it. BTW, I am going to take E-test soon. Is that will be ok if I just replace the gas cap? I am new driver. Thanks for your advice. Derek
Please help me!! My battery light keeps coming on, and I recently had a tune up. Do you think it's bc I didn't replace the spark plugs? My alternator was checked recently in a tune up, no problems. The battery light was going on before the tune up, never mentioned it when I dropped off the car, they never said anything about my alternator when they did the tune up. Do you think it could be a fuse? 98 corolla with 51000 miles on it. No problems starting/driving the car. Btwn both my toyotas this past month both being @ dealership for repairs this last month I can't afford another error.
If the $50 made you feel well, then it was worth the expense. For that type of driving, any 5W30 oil with API: SL or SM certification should be good for 5000 miler OR (important) 6 months. If you towed, raced, or lived in arctics my advice would be different. Enjoy your new car!
I think the A/C is finally giving out on my 93 Corolla DX. I recall something about a change in A/C refrigerants in the mid to late 90s. If I need to get my A/C fixed, does it mean I need to replace the entire system because of the refrigerant change? What does that cost? Has anyone else gone through this? Thanks.
With the error codes you're getting, I'd start by replacing the gas cap first (you can't tell if it's bad by looking at it), if that doesn't fix it, then I'd go with a new tank bypass valve. Since your's is an '01, it is equipped with a purge valve, but that has a much lower failure rate then does the tank bypass valve. I would only consider replacing the purge valve if the gas cap or the TBV doesn't fix the problem.
If I were you I would use the new Mobil 1 Extended Drain Interval Synthetic. Mobil says you can use it for 15,000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first. It's a bit expensive, about $6 per quart here in New York but you only have to change it once a year. I am using it in my 2003 Corolla along with a Mobil 1 Oil Filter and am quite satisfied.
Hello everyone! I hope someone can help me with this question. I have a 2005 Corolla (automatic) and I am leasing it. I was told by the dealership merchanic that they "recommend" me to do a 4 wheel brake service, which is rather costly. I don't see it on the service menu, which probably is not mandatory.
Question: what is it and is it necessary if I am just leasing the car? Thanks.
= 28,000 miles. I would highly doubt you need any brake work, unless you are REALLY hard on brakes, so don't bother. If you don't hear any squeaking or grinding or feel any pulsation, they are fine.
Turn the vents away from your armpits. HA! that was funny!
Seriously - do you mean sweat, like perspiration smell or sweet, like sugar or candy?
Sweat smell is likely just from dust and dampness in the ductwork which may include junk laying in the bottom of the evaporator coil tray - that's where the A/C water collects and runs out. If there is junk in it, it will hold water and start smelling musty. It could also be due to a windshield leak that you don't know about yet.
Sweet smell is a coolant leak - hose connection, heater core, etc.
Sweet = coolant = operational problem = fix it now.
Sweat = musty junk = no problem other than allergy = no rush.
Does anyone know where the parking brake adjustment is located on a 2005 Corolla? I know on older models it was located under the center console but would like to confirm this for the 2005 before I go through the hassle of removing the console.
Comments
They said I didn't need to replace them yet (I didn't), but I was wondering how much longer they would last. I am under the impression that rear brakes last much longer than front brakes, but was hoping for some insight on how much longer the rears would last.
Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is he blowing smoke, or is he correct?
It didn't said right to me.
The last time the fuel filter needed to be replaced on a Corolla was a 1997 model or earlier.
Please check your owner's manual maintenance supplement- it will tell you what needs to be done and when. Then you can show the mechanic that 98 and newer do not need fuel filter changed. The 97's fuel filters are under the hood, on the firewall driver's side. The '98 and newer are in the fuel tank.
The alternator should be checked for proper output, but it could be something else, like a loose wire or bad fuse, etc. etc. They would not check this in a normal tune-up. Does the battery light go on and off intermittently? How often?
What transmission do you have?
I do my own oil changes...takes all of 10 minutes on a Corolla...and am putting in Mobil 1 5W30. What interval is good? Historically I have been a 3k miles kind of guy but if it doesn't make sense I won't do it...and driving conditions here are not particularly severe though summers can be hot. But understand that with one daughter in college who will graduate next year then will pursue her master's and another daughter starting college next fall...we plan on keeping this thing for a v-e-r-y long time. Which is a major impactor on why we chose the Corolla in the first place. Also be aware that my wife is Korean-American and some stereotypes do hold true to some degree...such as driving habits. Riding with her is like going on a carnival ride. No accidents though...
Check out one of the several synthetic oil chat boards. I think you'll find M1 people changing oil at 10k or more.
When I bought my '05, it came with "free" oil changes every 5k to 20k. All of them have been with M1 provided by me. Now that I'm at 20k with no more free service every 5k, I'm switching to every 10k still with M1. But that's just me. BTW at 10k OCI's, I plan to keep it 10 years, too.
Please elaborate.
I'd put regular oil back in it at the next change, run it for one cycle, then go back to M1 from then on. Nothing to fret over.
How much did they charge for the new MAF sensor? What year is your Corolla and how many miles are on it?
So should I stick to this Synthetics oil or should I switch to other cheaper brands.
Most of my milage will be local and I'm living mid-west.
Thank you
I don't know anything about the fuel injector or induction flush. Ask over at Corolland
Just read your info about Check Engine Light on, My car, 2001 Toyota Corolla with 53000km. get three error code, P0440-EVAP control Sys; P0441-EVAP Sys Purgeflow low; P0446-EVAP vent solenoid pro; These three code get back again and again after I reset each time.
Do you think I should replace the gas cap? it looks nothing wrong with it. BTW, I am going to take E-test soon. Is that will be ok if I just replace the gas cap? I am new driver. Thanks for your advice.
Derek
For that type of driving, any 5W30 oil with API: SL or SM certification should be good for 5000 miler OR (important) 6 months.
If you towed, raced, or lived in arctics my advice would be different. Enjoy your new car!
Question: what is it and is it necessary if I am just leasing the car? Thanks.
Seriously - do you mean sweat, like perspiration smell or sweet, like sugar or candy?
Sweat smell is likely just from dust and dampness in the ductwork which may include junk laying in the bottom of the evaporator coil tray - that's where the A/C water collects and runs out. If there is junk in it, it will hold water and start smelling musty. It could also be due to a windshield leak that you don't know about yet.
Sweet smell is a coolant leak - hose connection, heater core, etc.
Sweet = coolant = operational problem = fix it now.
Sweat = musty junk = no problem other than allergy = no rush.
Thanks!