Does anyone know if the 2 oil filters that the 2006 Corolla uses are interchangeable? There is one for the 1.8 and another for the 1.8 XRS. The only difference that I can see is that the one for the XRS is taller(height). This one, of course, would have more filter area.
I just filled up my car yesterday. Today when I started it in the morning to go to work, I kind of stalled but I did not pay any attention to it because I thought it was still kind of cold; But when I went out for lunch it stalled again and I kind of had to push the gas a few times; I am think maybe bad gas; I know that sounds funny but seriously; I have been given advise here at work and they told me to buy a gas treatment or fuel cleaner put it in and then next time I fill up to put the next grade higher to clean out the gas; Any advice would help before I make the trip tot he dealer and spend some major $$$ on something that can be treated with the advise I was give. Thank you
So this just popped up. I went to fill my gas, seeing it was at 1/2 a tank. Put in the nozzle start it up, click, stops. Try again, stops. I hold it down the pumps lever down to fill up the tank, the whole time feeling the pump trying to stop. I estimate how much right on and go on my way, assuming their was a problem with the pump.
However, it doesn't seem to be the pump. I have been to two other stations and have had the same problem at each. It seems as though something in my car is signaling that it is full when it is not.
I have had the same exact problem with pumping gas. It pumped half tank and then it stopped. I continued but the gas spilled out. It should have taken about 10 gal but it only took 4 but the dashboard gauge showed it correctly as 1/2 tank full when I started the engine. Please help thanks
The shop manual says that one should use jack stands with a rubber attachment on the corolla. Any idea where to find such an item. I took a block of hard wood and grooved it so that I could use a standard hydraulic floor jack to raise my cressida without digging out the service jack, wondering if this is the way to go with the corolla and jack stands? On my corolla when using the service jack only the inside of the u is lifting the car as the floor is about 1/4 inch lower on the inside of the "channel" the u fits around. This is at all four jacking points. Any toyota mechanics on this board that could shed some light?
Just looking for a second opinion...is it really necessary to replace the cabin air filter at 16,000 Km (10,000 miles) per the recommended schedule? Seems excessive to me.
Hi, I've just bough a used 2005 corolla LE auto. Every time I accelerate, I notice that the car does not respond quickly enough and it seems that it needs some persuation to move. Previously had a buick auto and it was always smooth and had an amazing pick-up. Is there some maintenance that I have do on the vehicle that would solve this problem? I have an oil change due after 500 miles. Thanks, Nash
I have 30K on my '05 Toyota Corolla LE. I've changed the oil, oil filter regularly 3.5K miles, and the airfilter once. Reading the online maintenance guide I see no change interval for fuel filter, and spark plugs are changed at 120K for the first time. Tightening the driveshaft bolt appears often, however. Does this seem right - is it a permanent fuel filter? Spark plugs - even the 100K spark plugs... rarely are good after 75K miles. Anyone know if the online schedule I'm reading is way off? /Paul
I also have a 2005 Toyota Corolla LE. I get nearly the advertised fuel economy. You have the automatic, I have the manual, so your mileage will be around 35+ on the highway. And low 30s in the city. My acceleration is quick enough, even rather brisk unless I have a carload of people. The car has an unusual throttle which means flooring the car isn't going to get you any more acceleration or power than putting the pedal down 1/2 way. /Paul
I want to add power steering fluid to my Corolla and Camry. However, on the caps it recommends to use DEXRON ATF. The Dealer said they have the products Dexron and ATF; but they are not " Power Steering Fluid ". They can be used for power steering. Now I am confused what to use: the regular power steering fluid from some auto shops, DEXRON or ATF. Please Help. Thanks so much for your time.
Hi. My Corolla 2000 "malfunction indocator lamp" turned on yesterday. I checked the manual, it just says go to the dealer. My question is: What is the problem normally? What can I check before go to the dealer? How much will it cost for the problem?
Dexron is a type of ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid). Frankly, I'm surprised that Toyota would be using Dexron as a power steering fluid, as most cars use specifically "power steering fluid" which is a clear liquid, whereas ATF is red. What does your owner's manual specify? Go with that . . .
I'm considering an '07 S and I was wondering about maintenance items. I drive a lot of miles. My R/T is 120 miles/day with 95% interstate at 65 MPH. Very little stop 'n go. For normal maintenance does the timing belt need to be replaced periodically? If so, how often and about how much does it cost from the dealer? Are there any other high dollar maintenance issues with the vehicle. Do brakes wear out fast? How often do you have to replace the tranny fluid?
I just got a 1995 toyota corolla and there are a few rust spots on it that i would like to sand off and re-paint, so i was wondering if anyone knew where i can find the paint code for this car.
Hi guys. I've Toyota Corolla Wagon L-Touring 1998 with egine type 4A-FE and Mileage 136700, Now I want to change the ATF. How many ATF to use in liter for this.
The cabin air filter is very easy to change. The automatic transmission fluid does not need to be done unless you are using the severe service schedule and even then the Factory Service Schedule says 60,000 miles. Do yourself a favor and DON'T listen to the dealer, use the guide that came with your car for service recommendations. The dealers accelerate that schedule so they can make more money.The air filter is another easy thing to do yourself. I would change the coolant, air filter, cabin filter, oil and filter.
Don't listen to the dealer, they want you come in every 3,000 miles instead of 5,000 so they can make more money. Read your owners manual or service schedule that came with the car and go by that.
If you contact Mobil and ask them about short driving while using their new Extended Drain Interval Mobil 1 they will tell you that the oil contains ingredients that deal with short driving. They told me that it is ok to go 15,000 miles or 1 year with this oil and I use their Mobil 1 oil filter also. They guarantee that you will not experience engine problems.
I just bought a used 97 corolla CE. It has 74K miles on it. The owner told me that it has the original timing belt. I wanted to get the 75k mile service done and called the dealer. I was told that I should also change the timing belt. Manuals say that it should be changed at 60K if driven under "severe condition". My question is, does that mean the timing belt need not be changed if you don't drive under "severe condition" at all ? Or should I go ahead and get it changed anyway ? The seller said I can do it at 90k (based on his experience with his accord for which he said he did it at 110K). The car was barely driven (5k miles) in the last two years (it was originally bought in Nov 96). Owner has kept up with oil changes. Should I take these into considerations too (the age of the car that is) ?
Find an empty flat road or road with a slight incline. Start off, but then shift into 4th or 5th gear WAY TOO early, maybe 20 mph, so the car is laboring. Then mash the gas pedal. If the engine starts to rev up quickly, as if it were in neutral, and the car isn't moving at all, your clutch is slipping and is worn out.
if the engine actually pulls the car along in 5th at this low speed (it might buck or shudder but the engine doesn't rev up like it was in neutral) then the clutch is holding and is okay.
I did a silly thing..my reverse lights were blinking off and on, so i lift the trunk of the car and noticed the wires were shredding..so i clipped the shredded wires and twisted together the non shredded wires but i dont have a soldering gun...now i cant get the car out of park...how can i rectify this dilemma.
I know this message is a bit outdated, but I am having the exact same problem with the clicking off prematurely and the gas spilling out. I have a 2007 Corolla S. The dealer was not able to replicate the problem the first time I brought it in there (naturally) last month, but now I guess they finally realized I'm not crazy. I brought the car back in this morning and got a call that they ordered me a new gas tank because the valve (didn't indicate which one, but I'm going to assume it is the fuel vent valve) is remaining open instead of closing when the fill up is occurring.
I am new to this discussion and as such have not read the older postings of others. My brother has a 94 Corolla DX and he says that at low speeds the vehicle runs a little on the rough side, but once it gets to freeway speed, above 65mph, he says that it runs a lot better. I asked a guy that I work with and he said that the engine may be out of time, or the timing may be off if you prefer.
The timing belt was replaced about 3 months ago. Could this be the problem? Thank you in advance for any responses.
Read the books that came with your car. In the book that shows all the maintenace items that needs to be done, (I forget what it's called), you will see that you only need to replace trans fluid if driving under SEVERE driving conditions. That would mean are you pulling a trailer, driving up and down mountains, etc. If your just doing normal driving then it doesn't even need to be changed, ever. The dealer is trying to rip you off, because it doesn't need it.
I have an '04 model, and I drive alot of highway also. I've got over 70,000 miles on it. Just so you know, there is no timing belt on the Corollas, it is a timing chain. It should never have to be replaced. Also, I recently just replaced my brake pads for the first time, so they last a long time because they are semi-metallic. Also, the trans fluid should never have to be replaced, unless your going to pull a trailer or something, which I expect won't happen with a Corolla. I have not had any problems with my car, except for the moonroof, do don't get a moonroof.
You have to remember that the Corolla is only a 4-cyl and the Buick was probably a 3.8 v-6, or v-8. When it comes to power and acceleration, of course you'll notice a difference. It is just going to take some time to get used to a 4-cyl. They're always slower, but that's why they are economical.
They are trying to rip you off. I have an '04 and the only thing I have done other than changing oil/filter is change the coolant. It is very easy to do yourself. If they are changing trans fluid, drive belt, and pcv valve, they are just doing it to get money from you. They probably never actually replaced any of it. They just said they did, and charged you for it. The trans fluid should never be changed unless you pull a trailer (with a Corolla?), or drive in severe conditions (up/down mountains, etc.). I hate to break it to you, but you got ripped off.
You do not need to replace trans fluid. I have an '04 with 70,000+ miles and have never replaced it. The owner's manual says to replace at 60,000 miles, but only if you drive it severely (such as pulling a trailer, with a Corolla?) The trans fluid should never need replacing unless you really do pull a trailer or make it work heavy duty. Then they reccomend it every 60,000 miles. Don't waste money on trans fluid change. Why spend money on it when it doesn't need it?
I am a stickler for details. My owner's manual for my 2006 Corolla(non-S) states that the oil capacity when changing the filter is 4.4 quarts. I put exactly 4 quarts and 10 ounces in when I change the oil. Putting only 4 quarts in would not be quite enough. In addition, the "S" needs slightly more than the regular Corolla. I hope that this helps.
For 2006 the S does NOT have exactly the same engine. It uses a slightly larger oil filter and the recommended oil needed for a oil and filter change is 4.7 quarts(Owner's manual). You might be looking at the 2004 Corolla and I am referring to only the 2006.
The Only 06 Corolla to have a different engine was the 06 Corolla XRS. The XRS came with a manual 4 speed transmission and a larger 4 cylinder engine from the old Toyota Celica. I believe they were only offered on the West Coast. The XRS had the same exterior body trim as the S. Not sure if they offer the XRS for 07 :shades:
You are correct. I apologize. I should have said the XRS had the slightly different engine. It is still a 1.8L engine but with increased horsepower and needs a bit more oil when changed. Thanks again for your information.
Your right it was a 6 speed manual trany and not a 4 speed like I posted . The engine was the same one as in the Celica GT. I don't believe Toyota advertised this model very much and a lot of people didn't even know it existed. :shades:
Concerning the regular Corolla vs. the XRS: The oil filter is slightly longer for the XRS. Does anyone know if I can use the larger(longer) oil filter for the regular Corolla? The specs are the same but the larger one is .6 inches longer.
I wouldn't think so. May be the same specs but they are basically two different engines. If you check the parts catalog even the add on chrome exhaust tip is larger on the XRS. Besides what would you do with the extra 6 inches on the larger oil filter?? :shades:
recently got a 2004 ce, 5-sp. seems like the shift points indicated in the owner's manual are really low, espeically 3 to 4 and 4 to 5: 1 to 2 14mph 2 to 3 22 (24 when cold) 3 to 4 27 4 to 5 39
i've had hondas before, and to really get the most of out them, you gotta rev the engine more and shift at higher speeds.
slowly learning how to shift by sound of the engine, but it can get difficult with the windows up, and ac and radio blasting.
I think the CE's don't have a tachometer? Those speeds are very low, but they are for the best fuel economy. I also think the maximum speeds for each gear are listed in the owner’s manual – take a look. I think it would be somewhere around:
Of course, I would strike a balance with fuel economy and acceleration, so I think this is somewhere around:
1-2 - 20 2-3 - 30 3-4 - 45 4-5 - 55
Without a tach, you still have a rev limiter, so that will prevent you from over-reving the engine on acceleration. But remember that the rev limiter won't help if you downshift into too low of a gear - then the engine can redline and is toast. Hope this helps. Let me know if any other questions.
I recently purchased a Toyota Corolla and the dealer was trying to push the extended warranties. With that the question was posed that does one need to do additional 15K, 30K, 45K, 60K, 75K, 90K Miles Major Services or Can one just do Oil Change at every 3K and warranty will be honored? They mentioned that one can do only 3K Oil Changes and it would be honored with Manufacturers Warranty also. Is this true? Does one suggest all the ridicuouls expensive services or just stick to Oil Change/Tire Rotation at every 3,000? Please advise.
Comments
However, it doesn't seem to be the pump. I have been to two other stations and have had the same problem at each. It seems as though something in my car is signaling that it is full when it is not.
Any ideas on what is wrong? Thanks
thanks
Thanks...
Barnee
I've just bough a used 2005 corolla LE auto. Every time I accelerate, I notice that the car does not respond quickly enough and it seems that it needs some persuation to move. Previously had a buick auto and it was always smooth and had an amazing pick-up. Is there some maintenance that I have do on the vehicle that would solve this problem? I have an oil change due after 500 miles.
Thanks,
Nash
Anyone know if the online schedule I'm reading is way off?
/Paul
The car has an unusual throttle which means flooring the car
isn't going to get you any more acceleration or power than
putting the pedal down 1/2 way. /Paul
What is the problem normally?
What can I check before go to the dealer?
How much will it cost for the problem?
Thanks a lot.
Thanks!
Jim
I've Toyota Corolla Wagon L-Touring 1998 with egine type 4A-FE and Mileage 136700, Now I want to change the ATF. How many ATF to use in liter for this.
Please help me
Thanks & regards
if the engine actually pulls the car along in 5th at this low speed (it might buck or shudder but the engine doesn't rev up like it was in neutral) then the clutch is holding and is okay.
Don't do this more than a couple of times.
So in that situation, how do I know if a Corolla LE 2003 has ABS or not?
If I don't see an ABS light, does it mean I don't have ABS?
Might be something for you to look into....
The timing belt was replaced about 3 months ago. Could this be the problem? Thank you in advance for any responses.
The S has exactly the same engine as the CE and LE, so it does NOT need more oil. Check your owner's manual.
recently got a 2004 ce, 5-sp. seems like the shift points indicated in the owner's manual are really low, espeically 3 to 4 and 4 to 5:
1 to 2 14mph
2 to 3 22 (24 when cold)
3 to 4 27
4 to 5 39
i've had hondas before, and to really get the most of out them, you gotta rev the engine more and shift at higher speeds.
slowly learning how to shift by sound of the engine, but it can get difficult with the windows up, and ac and radio blasting.
care to comment? any hints? thanks.
I also think the maximum speeds for each gear are listed in the owner’s manual – take a look. I think it would be somewhere around:
1st – 30
2nd – 50
3rd - 70
4th – 90
Of course, I would strike a balance with fuel economy and acceleration, so I think this is somewhere around:
1-2 - 20
2-3 - 30
3-4 - 45
4-5 - 55
Without a tach, you still have a rev limiter, so that will prevent you from over-reving the engine on acceleration. But remember that the rev limiter won't help if you downshift into too low of a gear - then the engine can redline and is toast. Hope this helps. Let me know if any other questions.
thanks for your reply. the ce does come with a tach (don't know about automatics).
i have been shifting:
1 - 2 @ 15
2 - 3 @ 24 + 2
3 - 4 @ 33 + 2
4 - 5 @ 45 + 5
doing mainly city driving, i got a little over 26 mpg on my last tank. seems low; i was getting 30+ on my civic.
the engine seems to lug if i shift from 3 - 4 at 27mph, don't know why the manual recommends it so low.
if i use the tach to shift, what rpm's would i shift from gear to gear? thanks.
I'll have to look tonight to be sure, but just take it up to 3,000 RPMs before you shift into the next gear - that should be good.