Occasional sporadic faltering was cured with gas-line antifreeze (methyl hydrate) to remove water in the gas. A week later the problem recurred, so I replaced the fuel filter and again added methyl hydrate. Problem was solved for a few days... but is back again! What does it take to get the water completely removed; or am I dealing with an additional problem?
Yep, it does apply to the Corolla. I was at a 2006 auto show and looked at the 2006 Corolla LE. Inside the glove box was the owner's manual and mantenance schedule along with paperwork on the warranty, tires, etc. In the maintence schedule book, the cars are up front and the SUV's in the back, it had that re-torque listed for the Corolla. Could it be a misprint?
The malfunction indicator light is coming on and staying on. Any idea what this indicates. I called toyota customer service and she said she wasnt sure. She said the gas tank cap may not be completely closed. Does that make sense?
The engine appears to be running fine. It has 107000 miles on it. I am the first owner.
Could be any number of things, most likely related to emissions. You can take it to AutoZone and have the codes read for free, and this will tell you the problem. It could be as simple as a sensor. Please let us know the results!
The dealer informed me that my 2003 Corolla S with 41,000 miles needs a Transmission Flush and that it has to have T4 Transmission fluid. They want $190+ to do this. :mad: Does this need to be done at 41k? :confuse: Is this price similar to other places or has anyone gotten this significantly cheaper? Is it correct that this is the only transmission fluid the car will take and that only Toyota sells it? Help, I don't want to overpay, but I don't want to go to someone other than the dealer who puts the wrong stuff in. :confuse:
Auto zone checked it out and said that I should check my gas tank cap and the vacuum hoses. I have'nt had time to do this yet but I will.
What does gas tank cap have to do with this?
Dose this mean emissions system is ruled out.
When u mentioned sensor, are we talking about an emissions sensor. That sounds like a reasonable explanation to me. The sensor has gone bad and this is an indication of its malfunction.
Why is autozone doing this for free?
I would be interested in your response. Thank you.
I've scoured the maintenance manual that came with my 1999 Corolla, and I'm confused about what maintenance needs to be performed at 100,000 miles. This is mainly due to the difference between a) what the dealership did at the last service b) what the book says and c) what the new mechanic is recommending. The car gets an average mix of highway and city driving in mostly wet conditions in Seattle.
Done at 80,000 miles "75,000 mile service" replaced engine belt replaced rear brakes ($800)
Proposed at 100,000 miles by friend-of-friend independent mechanic "100,000 mile service" flush coolant flush transmission (are these two things usually included in a standard service, or are they extra?) replace front brakes (quoted $350 for everything)
(I also need new tires and an alignment, but I'm counting those separately.)
With the exception of regular oil changes, what else should I be doing now to make this car bulletproof for another 20,000 miles? I intend to drive it into the ground and I'd like to take excellent care of it. Thanks.
Just do a drain and fill, not a flush. A flush is not necessary. A drain and fill at a dealer will run $80-90. Yes, use only Toyota ATF T4 (check the manual to be absolutely sure of the type of ATF.
Just do what the owner's maintenance manual says. Per manual, change plugs every 30,000, and air filter and pcv valve. Drain and fill automatic trans fluid, (don't flush) every 30,000, drain and fill coolant every 30,000.
$800 for rear brakes!!!! That's really expensive! What did they do!?!? For front brakes, pads and rotor turn is about $180 at a dealer. New rotors would be more $$
Also, I highly recommend using only Toyota parts and fluids. In addition, change brake fluid, power steering fluid every 30-60k.
Gas cap is emissions - loose cap or bad gas cap gasket will release gas fumes into air. Autozone does for free in hopes you will buy parts from them to fix the problem.
I learned a long time ago... use nothing but Toyota parts. 25 years ago, the additional cost was significant but was still worth it. Today, the gap has closed and the +$ makes the only sense.
My engine light is on also and I have a 1999. I was told that my gas cap needed to be replaced but no one ever tells me what else could be the problem. I even had a guy tell me I needed a catilac converter, but someone else said I didn't. Not sure what to do!
I removed the gas tank cap and I heard a loud whooooosh indicating a bad gasket or seal etc. So I started the car without the gas cap and the malfunction light was still on. Will the light stay on after I install a new cap. Would I have to go to a dealer to have them reset the code to get rid of the malfunction indiactor light. Would autozone do that for free. Thanks for your responses so far.
....with the recommendation to just drain and refill the tranny. Doing so only changes out about 1/3 of the total amount of fluid in tranny. Tranny fluid starts breaking down at around 25K-30K miles and if you're looking to get a lot of miles on the tranny without expensive repairs, I would pay the extra money to have a flush done every 30K. Automatic transmissions are usually the weakest link in any vehicle's drive train and it pays off in the long run to take care of them the best way possible......and that means doing flushes instead of just draining them.
Its supposed to go whooooosh and is probably not the problem.
The light could mean lots of things. My Windstar (stop laughing!) is extremely sensitive to different gas. When I fill up on the road, within 10 minutes, the light will come on. After 4 or 5 future restarts, the computer adjusts and the light goes off. Your problem may be that temporary
I would feel just fine doing drain and fills if they are done every 30k. I have heard lots of horror stories about flushes (breaking free lots of stuff and then that stuff gets stuck in the many small passageways in the tranny.) Just following the manual...
I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla Sport, manual transmition, with 32,000 miles. I have regular oil changes but I think I need a tune up? It doesn't seem to be running as fast as should. I dont want to take it to a dealer and get screwed. Any ideas?
Follow the maintenance guide in the owner's manual. For an '03 with a stick, I would drain and fill the coolant, but I think the owner's manual would tell you that it is not necessary. "Tune-up" is not needed, no plugs to change until at least 80k. I would also change the air filter and the cabin air filter.
The key is to follow the owner's manual!
I also have the same questions as post number 223 - ????
I just have a machanic changed my corolla 97 auto transmission fluid. They used Valvoline DEXRON® III/MERCON. I watched him drained and cleaned pan, changed the gasket. After 2 weeks, I checked my transmission fluid after running by have the engine turn on. It was mixed red and dark.
Would that be the problem? Do I have to change it again? I had posted this question in general Corolla board but did not get any reply. So, I'm trying again. -----------------------------------------------------------
I did some resarch, it said the 3 speed have differential oil that need to be replaced too. I knew he did not change that, so I may have to change it again.
Do I need to use the same exact oil same as the above one for my differential oil?
I went back to autozone and had it rechecked. The following is what their code says: Troubleshooting P0441. The PCM has determined that the purge flow in the evaporative emmission control system is incorrect for the current engine operating conditions.
I called the local toyota dealer and he says that he would he have to do the diagnostics which alone would cost $91.00. The actual repairs are extra.
Assuming auto zone is correct that the purge valve is bad what kind of repairs are involved. How much would it cost. Where is the purge valve located? back end of car?
Any problem driving the car now? The engine appears to be running fine . No noise or anything.
Follow the maintenance schedule in your Owners Manual. It does not call for transmission fluid to be changed at 41,000 miles. If there is a problem with the tranny you might have to do so.It is true about the fluid, it does take T4 fluid and it sells for about $25-30 per gallon. Many experts in the business do not recommend flushing of the transmission, by the way.
My son recently bought a used 2004 Corolla CE with the 1.8L engine, but no owner's manual was included. We're going to change the oil soon, so if anyone has a manual and could look up the oil capacity spec, I would appreciate it greatly. I think the 2003 Corolla has the same engine so if you have a 2003, that info would do. We need the capacity in U.S. quarts, with filter change. Thanks!
the door locks on our 1999 corolla keep popping open by themselves. Even if you lock them manually or with the key they still pop open by themselves. Has anyone had this problem or know what the problem might be?
I have a 96 corolla dx. My parkin lights went out when I hit a bump in the road. I tried changing the fuse and they blow every time. I think I have a short, but has this happen to anyone b4?
Can anyone be of help in telling me how to remove the factory speakers of a 1995 corolla....the front ones in the doors? I bought some new speaks for my sister for xmas but realized that I did not know how to take the originals out as there does not seem to be any screw holes and such. Thanks M
Hi, Did you ever get this resolved. I ask because I have the same problem. Autozone told me it's the purge valve and i have no idea what/where it is and the book i bought at autozone says nothing about it.
I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla 4Wheel drive 1600cc and for no apparent reason the Engine Fault warning light comes on intimately. Any ideas why this would happen, and how can it be rectified. :confuse:
Need some advice on my 99 Corolla. Had an accident recently with some damage to the front fender. That was taken care of, but since my car has about 47000 miles and was due for a brake job and oil change I asked the guy in the body shop to take care of it. He quoted me $150 for the brake job (front) with replacement of the brake pads and retouching the rotors. So far so good. But then I receive a phone call from him telling him that when he took the wheels off he discovered that the driver side axle shoe was worn out with grease leaking out of it. He did show it to me and indeed the shoe was worn out. He said that if any water got inside the shoe then it would be really a mess. I accepted the fact. But he said that it was cheaper to replace the whole left front axle than simply replace the shoe, quoting me $200 for the whole job. Am I being taken for a ride or is it something which is for real? Any advice would be welcome. Thanks. PT.
Newer Corollas allow for programming how doors lock and unlock. Perhaps this feature was already available in 1999. Check the owners manual to determine how to program the door locks.
We have a 2003 Corolla with an auto-trans. We just recently replaced the oem tires (at 38500 miles) with a set of Toyo's with a 70K rating at a tire store with free rotation and 5K intervals. The LOF's are done at 3500-mile intervals and the vehicle gets inspected annually. The car is driven an average of 15 to 20 miles daily, sometimes more, sometimes less. The car sees 25-35 and 55 mph driving on a daily basis. After reviewing the 'Owner guide'; it looks as though we are into lots of items and ;plenty of $$ to bring the car into their program. We are approaching the 40000-mile mark and are curious on what exactly is necessary with regards to scheduled maintenance? Any thoughts would be appreceiated.
It is not cheaper to change the front axle, only easier and less work, but higher profit for them. When replacing the shoe (a $10 part), this can be done with quite easily since the front brakes are being worked on. The complete axle may cost about $90.00, and the rest is labor. The axle just pops out of the transmission once everything is disconnected. I just changed one on a Sentra and the job took about 25 minutes. But the decision is yours, and I am just providing some advice. good luck!
hey bornagain1, my tranny growls when i put it in reverse (even when I punch the clutch all the way in).. typically happens when the car is rolling even the slightest bit backwards on when i start the car up cold.. how about you? Anyone else??
As i was reading my new 2006 Corrola (1.8 L 4-cylinder automatic) owner's manual, i was surprised to read that there are two different fuel requirements. Engine type (1ZZ-FE) requires regular octance 87 or higher, whereas engine type (2ZZ-GE) requires premium octane 91 or higher. What's the difference between the two, and how do i know which type of fuel to use in my Corolla ? Thanks.
depends if you drive a CE/LE/S or the XRS. the CE/LE/S engine is the 1ZZ-FE engine and requires the regular 87 gas, whereas the XRS is the 2ZZ-GE engine that runs on premium 91 octane. read this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZZ_engine funny that both engines have almost the same torque rating at same RPM (which equates to same power), but XRS $$ more for the car and the gas.. but i guess the 6-sp, 16", suspension tricks is worth it..
to answer your second question, higher octane rating is more difficult to combust and is therefore used in higher compression engines (usually sporty cars) where more gas and air can be pushed in before igniting it.. using lower octane rated gas in a high compression engine will cause the mixture to explode before it is sparked causing kickback (bad for engine, but newer engines somehow take care of that)... using higher octane gas in regular engine will just give you bad mileage (wont burn up as well).. anyway, peace!
I have a 1989 Corolla DX four-door sedan with the 4AF engine. Recently the charge light and brake light came on simultaneously, and the alternator clearly is not delivering charge because the battery runs down in a day or two. This is with the original alternator, and I think the brushes wore out. (Sixteen years...)
The thing is, I just changed out the alternator (for a junkyard special) and though the warning lights are no longer on, I still get no charge out of the alternator.
The obvious answer is that I just got a bad alternator. But I'm wondering if anyone knows of another problem -- perhaps a wiring fault -- that might cause these symptoms. (In case anyone's wondering, I haven't checked for blown fuses yet; I lost the daylight before I got to that point.)
Just found out my Corolla 2003's dipstick for transmission fluid is missing. It looks dirty around without the dipstick's protection. Fluid still looks good in clear pink. I have never thought about it that the maintainance guy in Toyota dealer may forget to put it back more than 6 months ago. But it does happen. Now I have to order it from the Toyota---cannot blame them. :mad: Anybody can tell me do I need to flush the transmission completely?
I have a 95 toyota corolla; bought it in '98, never had problems with it until now, after owning the car for almost 8 yrs, the check engine :surprise: signal shows up. I just replaced a new battery, had an oil change a month ago, and everything else seems fine. All the answers I'm getting from others is that it could be anything. Should I just wing it out and see if the sign goes away within a few days or take it to a body shop and have them check it out? Hopefully I'll get a good response from anyone. Thanks for your help guys! I appreciate it!
I took my 2003 Corolla S in for an oil change today it has 44,400 miles and I bought it in May 2002. 3000 miles ago I got the 40K maintenance and inbetween I got the transmission flushed. This time they are telling me I need to replace the drive belt ($99), coolant flush ($129) and replace PCV valve ($40). Also they recommended to Clean and adjust rear brakes ($55). Are these things recommented at this milage or are they trying to rip me off? Are the prices resonable to what other people have paid at the dealer? Thanks.
I would drain and fill (not flush) coolant every 30k, drain and fill (not flush) automatic transmission fluid every 30k, if stick, then do a drain and fill every 60k.
Forget about the rear brakes for now - not necessary - have you done a pad change to the fronts? I am guessing not, at that low miles. I had my front pads changed at 75k, rear shoes are still fine. Mine is a stick, so my brakes will last longer. Is yours an auto?
PCV valve is a $5 part, takes me 5 minutes to change it. I would change it if I were you. Very easy to do yourself with just a little know-how.
Prices at my local dealership - ATF drain and fill about $75, coolant drain & fill $45, serpentine belt sounds about right. But I changed my serpentine belt at 5 years (60k miles) because I could see some cracking. I don't know about yours, but I would be a little skeptical at that mileage/age. Don't pay $129 for coolant flush - just drain & fill for about $40-$60.
Just look in your owner's manual supplement - it lists the factory recommended maintenance for specific time/miles. - do this and you'll be fine.
high octane gas is just more stable/predictable gasoline. its not any less explosive than the lower octane. So, high octane should not lower your milage at all.
Comments
The engine appears to be running fine. It has 107000 miles on it. I am the first owner.
I have'nt had time to do this yet but I will.
What does gas tank cap have to do with this?
Dose this mean emissions system is ruled out.
When u mentioned sensor, are we talking about an emissions sensor. That sounds like a reasonable explanation to me. The sensor has gone bad and this is an indication of its malfunction.
Why is autozone doing this for free?
I would be interested in your response. Thank you.
Done at 80,000 miles
"75,000 mile service" replaced engine belt replaced rear brakes
($800)
Proposed at 100,000 miles by friend-of-friend independent mechanic
"100,000 mile service" flush coolant flush transmission (are these two things usually included in a standard service, or are they extra?) replace front brakes
(quoted $350 for everything)
(I also need new tires and an alignment, but I'm counting those separately.)
With the exception of regular oil changes, what else should I be doing now to make this car bulletproof for another 20,000 miles? I intend to drive it into the ground and I'd like to take excellent care of it. Thanks.
:confuse:
$800 for rear brakes!!!! That's really expensive! What did they do!?!? For front brakes, pads and rotor turn is about $180 at a dealer. New rotors would be more $$
Also, I highly recommend using only Toyota parts and fluids. In addition, change brake fluid, power steering fluid every 30-60k.
The light could mean lots of things. My Windstar (stop laughing!) is extremely sensitive to different gas. When I fill up on the road, within 10 minutes, the light will come on. After 4 or 5 future restarts, the computer adjusts and the light goes off. Your problem may be that temporary
The key is to follow the owner's manual!
I also have the same questions as post number 223 - ????
Would that be the problem? Do I have to change it again?
I had posted this question in general Corolla board but did not get any reply. So, I'm trying again.
-----------------------------------------------------------
I did some resarch, it said the 3 speed have differential oil that need to be replaced too. I knew he did not change that, so I may have to change it again.
Do I need to use the same exact oil same as the above one for my differential oil?
Thank a lot
I called the local toyota dealer and he says that he would he have to do the diagnostics which alone would cost $91.00. The actual repairs are extra.
Assuming auto zone is correct that the purge valve is bad what kind of repairs are involved. How much would it cost.
Where is the purge valve located? back end of car?
Any problem driving the car now? The engine appears to be running fine . No noise or anything.
I bought some new speaks for my sister for xmas but realized that I did not know how to take the originals out as there does not seem to be any screw holes and such.
Thanks
M
Did you ever get this resolved. I ask because I have the same problem. Autozone told me it's the purge valve and i have no idea what/where it is and the book i bought at autozone says nothing about it.
Had an accident recently with some damage to the front fender. That was taken care of, but since my car has about 47000 miles and was due for a brake job and oil change I asked the guy in the body shop to take care of it.
He quoted me $150 for the brake job (front) with replacement of the brake pads and retouching the rotors.
So far so good.
But then I receive a phone call from him telling him that when he took the wheels off he discovered that the driver side axle shoe was worn out with grease leaking out of it.
He did show it to me and indeed the shoe was worn out. He said that if any water got inside the shoe then it would be really a mess. I accepted the fact.
But he said that it was cheaper to replace the whole left front axle than simply replace the shoe, quoting me $200 for the whole job.
Am I being taken for a ride or is it something which is for real?
Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks.
PT.
there is 1.5 qt difference between low oil and high oil mark on the dipstick
There is a little hexagonal bolt that looks like the one...
do I need to tighten or loosen to move headlight up?
After reviewing the 'Owner guide'; it looks as though we are into lots of items and ;plenty of $$ to bring the car into their program. We are approaching the 40000-mile mark and are curious on what exactly is necessary with regards to scheduled maintenance? Any thoughts would be appreceiated.
funny that both engines have almost the same torque rating at same RPM (which equates to same power), but XRS $$ more for the car and the gas.. but i guess the 6-sp, 16", suspension tricks is worth it..
The thing is, I just changed out the alternator (for a junkyard special) and though the warning lights are no longer on, I still get no charge out of the alternator.
The obvious answer is that I just got a bad alternator. But I'm wondering if anyone knows of another problem -- perhaps a wiring fault -- that might cause these symptoms. (In case anyone's wondering, I haven't checked for blown fuses yet; I lost the daylight before I got to that point.)
I have a similar problem, can you please share what you did to rectify. I have a 99 corolla VE with 75000 miles on it.
Thanks
skmg
Forget about the rear brakes for now - not necessary - have you done a pad change to the fronts? I am guessing not, at that low miles. I had my front pads changed at 75k, rear shoes are still fine. Mine is a stick, so my brakes will last longer. Is yours an auto?
PCV valve is a $5 part, takes me 5 minutes to change it. I would change it if I were you. Very easy to do yourself with just a little know-how.
Prices at my local dealership - ATF drain and fill about $75, coolant drain & fill $45, serpentine belt sounds about right. But I changed my serpentine belt at 5 years (60k miles) because I could see some cracking. I don't know about yours, but I would be a little skeptical at that mileage/age.
Don't pay $129 for coolant flush - just drain & fill for about $40-$60.
Just look in your owner's manual supplement - it lists the factory recommended maintenance for specific time/miles. - do this and you'll be fine.
I too just had this happen to me. I also have a 99 Corolla CE with under 45000 miles on it. Please let me know if you heard anything. Thanks!!
Evie
high octane gas is just more stable/predictable gasoline. its not any less explosive than the lower octane. So, high octane should not lower your milage at all.