Wow never heard of a tensioner letting go. They replaced it because maybe they want you as a customer, it is under warranty. BTW what engine in your truck? I have a 99 put new tires on it at 5,000 miles and until last week got 20 mpg but at the last fill up I was getting 23!! 70% freeway with the V6 auto and 3.42 posi.
Does anyone know anything about this type of truck that has paint peeling off. My daughter bought her first truck, and found out that the paint started to peel off. She then found out that it was a primer problem. Is there any recourse with the manufacturer about this. Any help would be appreciated.
My truck is a 1997 SS w/L35 4.3 and 4L60E auto with locking 3.42 rear end. My reason for being skeptical about their hassle free repair is that I have had some pain in the [non-permissible content removed] minor oil leaks- oil cooler adapter to be exact. They (chev dealer) were not too happy about fixing leaks I guess, because they tried to make me pay for it- the three times it had to be fixed- telling me that "maintence items" such as that were not covered under warranty.
tattoo3- FYI- late 80's and early 90's chev trucks had [non-permissible content removed] paint jobs due to lousy primer- as you have found out. Chevy may still even repaint your truck under their recall deal- the only way to find out is to call GM itself- not the dealer.
I just bought a s-10. It has less than 1000 miles, when I kill the engine there is a reoccurring ping coming from under the hood just wondering what this is and if it is normal can anyone help
I once had a 1980 Chevy Silverado that did the same thing after it was about 10 years old. The truck was a two tone while with blue sides. Suddenly it began to "pop" pieces of paint about the size of silver dollars, then pieces about the size of your average flapjack. Before long much of the truck was looking like someone had a black paintball fight with the truck. Looked awful. I've seen all American makes do the same things, all the trucks were 1980-1994. I know of two people who have had their trucks repainted under warranty, both were 1994 Fords.
I bought my 95 S-10 (4-cyl auto) used with high miles. Test drove it and I thought it shifted fine. Shortly after absolutely, positively would not shift out of second under full throttle. Changed the fluid, unplugged a few of the cables form it(then would not get out of first). Took to dealer and described problem. They thought it was the fuel filter (change it, it was cheap) until they drove it. They said I would have to bring it back for another inspection. I talked to the mechanic and he said maybe Vehicle Speed Sensor. Ordered one (about $40) and put it in myself. Bingo. Shifts fine under power. Original sensor pick-up was bent. One way to diagnose this is watch speedometer, if it climes steadly to speed and then at the shift point goes BACKWARDS this may be your problem. Shifts to third at approximately 62mph (mine with the bad sensor only reached 60mph with the bad sensor, so close yet so far). When testing you trans try not to over rev it because there seems to be no rev limiter. Now to my problem, keeping the above in mind, sometime when going from park to first or reverse it doesn't seem to go into gear like it's slipping. When it's warmed up it works fine. Seems to be more often when it has set for awhile (overnight). Next, this is a 4-cyl with 85,000 has a lot or valve noise (lifters?) when cold (again overnight), however this problem seems more ambient temperature related (summer little or no noise winter lots of rattle) Is this normal or is the mileage catching up with it?
Don't worry about your S10. I have just clicked over the 101K mark today. 5 spd 4 bang 95 chevy bare bones s10. Paid $9,995. Woth every penny! It got me through ice, snow, mud, and traffic. In college I towed uhauls with heavy amounts of furniture. I moved 12 times during my 4 years of college. This has caused my rear suspension to sag. This truck has never failed me. My battery and brake pads are still the original.
Here is my breakdown Oil change every 4000 miles Lube cha. every 7k or 8k Air filter every year Changed trans fluid at 92k & Diff Make sure to grease fitting on transmission if 5sp Coolant at 98k Fuel Filter at 65k New tires at 75k Same brakes Same battery Fan Belt at 100k Plugs at 95k
Thats it. It probably is time for a new clutch. This truck will reach 200k+. I commute 95miles per day. This truck never fails. I am sure there are trucks out there such as toyotas and nissans that people claim are better.But they lack the emotional bond that only a Chevy truck can bring. Plus I am proud my truck is American even though nobody is proud of what we produce anymore.
hey dont say "I am proud my truck is American even though nobody is proud of what we produce anymore. " key word "nobody" I'm a proud American and a Union worker, where I live I'd say 90-95% of the vehicles are American. I also have a S10, awesome truck. I'd never go with an import because of: A 12/07/41 B unfair trade practices (remember the taxes that were to be put on [non-permissible content removed] vehicles unless they opened their market? ie they can sell here but we cant there UNFAIR) C price of parts, a $700 alternator? give me a break how many GM/Ford/Dodge alternators could you buy for that money? D wimpy trucks with no power or style and I dont care how many plants they build here the bottom line is you buy japanese the money goes to japan and doesnt return
There was an interesting PIE CHART in AUTOMOBILE MAGAZINE regarding import ingrediants of DOMESTIC vehicles. The only vehicle with near 100% US components was Saturn with Ford T-BIRD a close 82%, Majority of trucks and components are quite a mixture of foreign made....Jeeps made in canada, many GM engines made in Hermosillo, Mexico, Many joint ventures of GM/Japan mfrs in US, NUUMI plant in Fremont, Calif makes Toyota mini-trucks, most of the HONDAS, NISSANS, TOYOTAS, EURO vehicles are made in US by UAW workers and sold by US salesman and dealers, I realize the overpriced imports need to be that way because most of the money goes to Japan....ie a $10,000 TUNDRA sold for $30,000...
If you want to buy STRICTLY AMERICAN, I MEAN USA ONLY...Buy any '50s, 60's Detroit autos, many are still around..By the way, S10 engines are made in Hermosillo, Mexico and Brazil....ask GM
Iam S10 diehard myself have had good ones and very horrific bad ones...best '87 S10 EXT CAB 4x4 2.8L Tahoe...worst '91 S10 BLAZER 4X4 4DR TAHOE with thousands of defects, a real bad LEMON, but have had beautiful luck with '88, 94, and my new 2000 Xtreme with 6500 trouble free miles...
I will only buy AMERICAN MADE.....Chevies, Fords, Toyotas....
I have a 97 4x2 ext. cab w/ 4.3 and 5 sp. 49,000 miles and only one problem - water pump failed at 29,000. Replaced with no questions by the dealer. Mileage has averaged 19+ mpg even in heavy San Diego stop & go traffic. Recently moved cross country from SD to NJ, averaged almost 20 mpg even with bed full to top of cap and a 4x8 u-haul completely loaded. Gross weight was over 6300 lbs. I'd like some more interior room, maybe a full size Silverado ext. cab.
To reply to a previous post about why chose the S10 over the Ranger? I actually liked the way the Ranger drove better, except the S10 has more power. The S10 was just better value for the money. All of the Rangers I looked at had options I wasn't willing to pay for. The kicker was 3.9% financing from GMAC, Ford couldn't beat 8%.
All in all it's worked fine for the kind of driving I do - 100 miles per day mostly freeway, but the previous posts are right about the Tiger Paw tires. Wear like iron (fronts are still original) but poor traction. The Costco brand I bought to replace the rears are no better for traction but will probably last 80K or more. I'll definitely look at the Michelins when the fronts are worn out.
I have a 97 4x2 ext. cab w/ 4.3 and 5 sp. 49,000 miles and only one problem - water pump failed at 29,000. Replaced with no questions by the dealer. Mileage has averaged 19+ mpg even in heavy San Diego stop & go traffic. Recently moved cross country from SD to NJ, averaged almost 20 mpg even with bed full to top of cap and a 4x8 u-haul completely loaded. Gross weight was over 6300 lbs. I'd like some more interior room, maybe a full size Silverado ext. cab.
To reply to a previous post about why chose the S10 over the Ranger? I actually liked the way the Ranger drove better, except the S10 has more power. The S10 was just better value for the money. All of the Rangers I looked at had options I wasn't willing to pay for. The kicker was 3.9% financing from GMAC, Ford couldn't beat 8%.
All in all it's worked fine for the kind of driving I do - 100 miles per day mostly freeway, but the previous posts are right about the Tiger Paw tires. Wear like iron (fronts are still original) but poor traction. The Costco brand I bought to replace the rears are no better for traction but will probably last 80K or more. I'll definitely look at the Michelins when the fronts are worn out.
I originally purchased the Chevy in 95 due to the fact that it claimed 95% on the Parts were U.S./ Canadian. The Ranger was only at 78% due to the fact that the transmission was a japanese mazda.
Yea, my '95 Ranger 2.3L had a Mazda manual tranny that took ATF....I read somewhere that Ford owns 25% of Mazda because GEN. MacARTHUR wroto Japanese constitution that forbids US Companies from owning 100 % At least I think that is what I read..memory fading, am Babyboomer....
Ever notice that due to this truck being made of galvanized steal that this truck does not rust. I have chips off my paint that are over 3 years old. There still is no signs of rust anywhere on my truck!!! Kudos to the body!!
Yah, ok the body is great, but I have yet to get a response from my dealership when I asked them to show me ONE part in my 97 zr2 that I haven't had to replace!! I bought it in November, and since then I have had to replace the master cyclinder, the rear u-joint, the tranny, the entire fuel system, and misc valves and pinions and seals, not to mention general upkeep.....anyone else having this problem?
Has there been any talk of putting GM's OHV 3.1L V6 in the S10? The 4.3L is great, but the MPG is pretty bad. The 3.1L gets 30MPG highway in the Malibu (w/automatic), maybe it would get 26-27 MPG in an S-10 automatic.
My guess that the problems with the s10's are in the 4x4 packages. My 95 s10 again has had no problems what's so ever. I am not sure what the deal is??
A 3.1 would be a good decision for the s10. The 2.2 is too weak and the 4.3 is too much.
My friend has a 91 Isuzu with the GM 3.1. Great long lasting motor. Now has 168k I believe
Can someone please help explain a passenger side ticking noise in the engine of my 4.3L S-10 4x4(1999 year with 14k miles). Dealer replaced rockers and push rods on that side.Was quiet for a couple 100 miles and is starting to get louder again.Dealer said there was no noticable ware or damage to parts they replaced. Took truck back to dealer, they basically said if it goes under warrranty then they'll fix it. I've been down this road before.Anybody had this valve train problem before? I thought at first it was the Throttle body fuel injection,not the case here. Electronic ERG valve maybe!Why did the dealer replace parts and it didn't fix the real issue at hand! They told me they would replace every part of the motor before they would replace one.At this rate the warranty will be over. There is a reason for this the longer they hold out fixing a problem the odds are in they're favor. You will sale and buy another.I've owned every make of truck from the big three here in the states and one nissan,in the 1990's the ranger was a lemon and this chevy is getting close to a lemon.Dodge has alot work ahead of them,nice body style,bad transmissions on the gas engines and poor interior refinement and steer like a tank.Enough said.
afey, yes the 3.1 is a long lasting engine, my old S10 had the 2.8 (basically the same engine, in fact the 3.1 or 3.4 is a recommended replacement for the 2.8) it went 300,000 before I got my new truck.
schleuss I never heard of this problem....ie its not a common thing. Sounds like the dealer was on the right track but theres something wrong with the engine that causes the problem to come back. I'd go higher up, call GM and Chevy's 800 number and see if you can get a rep to handle your situation. When you start making noise they'll pay attention to you, unlike the dealer that doesnt want to do warranty work. I'm sure GM would like to keep you as a customer
I have a 95 4X4 Sonoma with the 4.3 (not the enhanced one) and 5 speed. I have an intermittant electrical problem that the dealer can't find because it quits doing it everytime I take it in. The following systems stop working: radio, heater fan, wiper, cruise, the anti lok brake light comes on. the lights and turn signals work and the truck runs fine. it will suddenly begin doing this and then maybe a half hour later it will be fine. sometimes it is on start up and at other times it will just suddenly happen. dealer checked codes and nothing. any ideas?
Is it coming from the engine? On my s-10 it seems as though I am getting the same thing, but it seems as to be more that the shock is bad. Brought it in and they said that it was fine. The joints were fine, and they couldn't understand why I was bringing it in. Yet, every passenger that I have mentions something about it. I even offered to take a spin with one of the mechanics, but they declined....you think that soemthing is up? I think it is the fact that they think girls don't know anything about trucks....*L*
Thank's for both of your help and I thought I'd bring you up to speed on my situation. I called GM customer service and they couldn't help. They told me all tech. reps go through the local service manager's at the dealership's. So I set a appointment for this friday again and explained the problem again. We shall see. Anybody else with information on this subject, your advise is needed. Just read my first letter and it will explain my engine trouble. Thx,Schleuss
Ok, I have to ask a dumb question and ask for that 1-800 #. I have to ask them about my s-10 and see if all of the repairs that I have made are normal....I don't think that they are, but who knows....
Hello to all on the Chevy S10 forum. I thought I'd share my experiences with my 94 S10 V6 Apple red automatic. I just passed the 100k mile mark which is a first for me. Overall, I'm very happy with the vehicle and am interested in repair issues people have had @ the 100k+ mileage mark.
Repairs; Replaced alternator @ 100k New battery @ 90k New muffler @ 65k New rear brakes @ 85k New front brakes @50k New tires @ 50k
A persistent problem I've had is a faulty driver side power window. It didn't work right when I bought the truck and still gives me occasional trouble. I probably need to spend some money on a tune up before summer comes. I'm hoping to go trouble free till I get to 150k.
After reading every message in this forum, the Ford Ranger forum, the Toyota Tacoma forum and doing a ton of research I finally bought an S10 this weekend. This is my first truck. I bought the standard cab LS trim package with regular bed, automatic, 4 cylinder (I know, kinda slow but my wife and daughter will have to drive it occasionally and last time I tried to teach my wife to drive a standard tranny we almost got divorced)AM-FM CD player, air conditioning (a must in Texas. I paid $11,599 and after TT&L I was out the door at $12,510. It MSRP'd at $15,145. I think I did well and so far I am thrilled with it. Now I need to shop for all those cool truck add-ons - Tonneau cover, bed liner, gun rack (lol) etc. Thanks for all the info and I'll take any and all suggestions for my new toy.
I am also looking for a tonneau cover also, any suggestions? And what do you all think of bedliners, especially the spray on ones vs. the ones that you just place in? BTW bubsdaddy, CONGRATS!!
Hey, is anyone looking for a Lund Racerback, black, lightly used? $100 or BO.
I have catch-all floormats, they are form fitted for your truck and keep water and other junk from getting on your trucks carpet. ie it wont soak thru.
Help! I'm a true blue Chevy fan that is losing his loyalty. I own a '98 S-10 6cyl with 60,000 mi that is starting to have electric problems. The left turn signal clicks way to fast and doesn't signal on the outside. My trip odometer seems to reset for no appearant reason and radio and instrument cluster flickers. The GM service rep said that his dealership has seen this several times. Anyone have ideas on a possible technical recall that could save me money since my new truck has too many highway miles to be under warrenty?
I've had a bunch of problems with this truck: 1) plastic pealing off air bag cover 10,000 mi 2) leaking shock absorber 10,000 mi 3) U-joints 30,000 mi 4) ignition coil burn out (this one stranded me) 31,000 mi 5) radio short out (had to be replaced) 32,000 mi 6) leak in cooling system 32,000 mi 7) paint on roof pealing 45,000mi 8) U-joints seem to be bad again 60,000mi 9) electrical system 60,000 mi
I like this truck but it is starting to get me down.
lmorey, check all the bulbs in your blinker circuit. This happened to me with a Pontiac I had (fast blink on dash but nothing on outside) and all I needed to do was replace a bad bulb. Good luck
Hey, congrats on your new S-10! I hope you'll keep us updated with any reliability problems or other comments on your new truck. Also, how's the MPG (city/hwy) on your 4cyl automatic?
I've got an old Ranger, I'll be trading in for a new S10 or Ranger soon...
I have a 98 S-10 SS, Candy Applered with the 4.3 (L35) V6. This truck rocks. When I purchased the truck (in Detroit MI) there were only 4 to choose from between Ohio and Michigan. This truck is fast. Faster than the other S-10's with the same engine. Maybe it's due to the fact of the CPI instead of the TBI. I can enter on-ramps at 65 m.p.h. when the speed limit is 25 m.p.h. without hesitation due to the ZQ8 suspension. I have driven many ford rangers from 4 cyl to 6 cyl to homemade 8 cyl and have never driven a truck as nice as this one. I have beaten my buddies 5.9 Dakota more than once, which means he holds his head in shame. The only aggravating problem the dealer can't fix is the popping noise when I'm going slow in a tight turn or when turning the wheel all the way while sitting still. This has done this since the first day I drove it off the lot. Needless to say I didn't notice it when I test drove it. It was brand new. Has anyone else had this problem. It has been lubed and relubed and the bushings have been changed. Any help???
Purchased a LeBra Tonneau cover for my S10 ($150). I left it in the back of my truck and went with my wife to the grocery store. When I returned home about an hour later my 12 year old son (who will inherit this truck in about 5 years) had the cover assembled and on the truck. Needed no tools, no metal against metal, no problems. I also purchased a rubber bedliner ($30). It required a little trimming in both the front and back but was ready about 10 minutes after pulling it out of the box. I'm still on my first tank of gas at 285 miles so I don't have any MPG's to report. I am following the manual's suggestion of keeping the speed under 55 for the first 500 miles.
At one time I was also a Chevy fan, until I bought a 1995 S10. In that time I replaced a wiper motor, power window motor, throttle body and fuel injectors. I was also having problems with the electrical system. I will never own another Chevy again. Next time I'll buy Japanese.
I've noticed recently the engine making a rattling (sounds like a diesel) in my 99 blazer 4.3L engine on acceleration. It only happens after the engine warms up, never cold. At first I thought it was the type of gas or injectors or computer code....it was none of that. The dealer says GM Tech support knows the problem is coming from the camshaft counter balance, a feature new to the 1999-00 4.3L engine but GM says it does does not have a fix. Anyone else ever experience this or have a suggestion? It's only got 18,500 miles.
I owned a 95 S-10 extended cab, 4 cylinder engine 5 speed manual tranny. Bought new and used to commute to work aprox 110 miles round trip per day. Flat terrain, two traffic lights and three stop signs each way. No towing or heavy loads. Changed oil every 2000 miles. After 129,000 miles I just sold it. The S-10 was the highest maintenance ridden vehicle I have ever owned in 35 years of driving. Brakes, wipers (first time under re-call second time I paid to fix), A/C (failed 3 times)radiator leak, Delco battery positive side terminal fell off resulting in the acid spilling and eating through the positive battery cable. U-joints replaced (twice), severe vibration from somewhere in drive train, bad paint on top of cab, faulty fuel gauge etc. First and last GM product for me.
Makko. Your story sounds funny. I also have a chevy 95 like yours. I also commute 98 miles per day. I have logged about 101k miles on my truck. If what you says is true about the stop lights and all that stuff you should not be having trouble with brakes. Every vehicle eventually need new brake pads. I still have the original brake pads. I checked them last week and they are still far from the wear indicator. Your brake pads should last a long time unless you stomp on the brake hard constantly. As far as the battery goes. I sounds like the terminals were never scrubbed. As far as the suppension. How often did you grease it. Bad paint???? What are you talking about???? I do believe you on the AC minus the 3 times to repair it. It sounds to me like you expected too much from you S10.
As for me, I had a 96 S-10 rear-ended 3 times, and the only service it required with 86,000 miles, were half a can of 134a freon. New pads front and back and I had the drums and rotors turned. The accidents caused my clutch to go out each time, but that was it. I changed the oil every 3000 miles or sooner if I would go over. It had a 2.2 liter 4 cylinder. Ls shortbed non-extended cab. 5 speed. The tach was nice and it took a beating. Now after it was totalled due to dealer screws up on repairs(I got to keep it for 1800 dollars, what a deal, to bad I can't afford insurance due to age, on two cars), I bought a 2000 S-10 Xtreme in october, it had the L35(4.3), LS extended cab, with three doors and 4L60e transmission and power everything. I also got the locking differnental. The Truck is nice and drives good. Only problems are wheel not centered(Dealer says due to wide wheels, but doesn't pull and some roads it is straight, wheel off to right about an inch). Also I have noticed that now it does make a poping sound when I turn the wheel hard one way or the other. I have 13000 miles on the truck will ask dealer to look into it. But happy with truck and also put in my old Pioneer deh-P85dhr and added a 6 disc premier changer to the stereo looks factory and sounds really nice. The changer was put in, next to the jack cover buy the third door, and is easy to change just by opening the third door. I velcroded to the back wall carpet and to the bottom carpet. Also added a wolf bra(Only have the hood part on for now) and clear turn signal lenses(Didn't want to change the tail lamps), and a K&N filter like the one in my 96 S-10. I did add a street scene grill insert, better than a billet insert in my opinion and truck rocks and looks great, did have to change the speakers and put pioneer premiers in. I did get a bed mat from sumit racing which is 3/8 of an inch thick, but really tuff and strong and thicker than anything else I have seen and wheel well covers for the bed, they stopped all scrapes and scratchs. Love the truck and the ride the ZQ8 suspension is really nice and the truck will smoke any ranger out there. Also love the transmission really smoth shifts, I would like them more firm, but will wait to install a transgo shift kit. I would recommend an S-10 to anyone, I love to know that I will always buy a chevy even if they aren't the best, they have never let me down. If anyone has the same problems with the steering let me know, I read one posting from someone who had the same problem. Also anyone love their Xtreme like me? Let me know, I am thinking about an exhaust kit or maybe a Whipple supercharger(To much money for about 3500$). Also I know that a hypertech programmer will remove the speed limiter on the truck is there any other way, as I don't want to speed 329+ dollars on the programmer just to use it for firmer shifts and the speed limit problem. Let me know if anyone has any questions about either truck.
I got my hypertech reprogrammer for $300 including shipping, from RV performance, it actually shipped from hypertech in tennesee, I dont know what the deal is with that but there are more things you can change with it. I called a few places and the guy at RV said he'd beat anyones price and he did. You can supertune, but you need to use 93 octane, make adjustments for different tires....keep the speedo where it should be. I have a 99 reg cab V6 auto 3.42 posi and its great, I heard '01 is the last year for this body style so I might have to trade mine for a new extracab.
You are right it does more, but I just want the transmission and speed limiter features, nothing more. How faster your regular cab? As for the body getting changed the GM proving grounds isn't far from where I live and I talked to a friend that works there and he said it was going to change soon also. I like my 2000 xtreme and I found a place that will Dyno your truck and then make custom cat back exhaust and then dyno again and guarantee a certain number of horsepower, I was going to call them up and have them look at my truck. I have the same thing you have, 3.42 gears and the posi.
I dont know how fast my truck is but going by magazine aticles it should run mid 15's stock. I put Michelins on it and a K&N filter. I'd go with a cat back but I'm waiting on my tax return plus I'm waiting because I might trade it for a new extra cab.
i have a 1994 s-10 most basic truck you can buy.its got 220k miles on same motor.i change oil every 3000 miles.but it needed 2 head gaskets at 100k and at 200k the wiper motor went and i didnt know it was a recall.my only problem with it is that it cant get out of its own way.i use it for construction and it has zero payload i had to put air shocks in it.but overall i think i got my moneys worth.......1-10 i give it a six
nunziop I am assuming you have the 4 banger. I have one question for you since you have a lot of miles. I have 101K on my95 4 banger. Even though I have used several fuel injector cleaners, I just can not get it to stop knocking. Is this normal?? Did you have this problem?? I have not had the head gasket replaced and I was wondering how you knew it was time to replace it???
Comments
that has paint peeling off. My daughter bought her
first truck, and found out that the paint started
to peel off. She then found out that it was a primer problem. Is there any recourse with the manufacturer about this. Any help would be appreciated.
My reason for being skeptical about their hassle free repair is that I have had some pain in the [non-permissible content removed] minor oil leaks- oil cooler adapter to be exact. They (chev dealer) were not too happy about fixing leaks I guess, because they tried to make me pay for it- the three times it had to be fixed- telling me that "maintence items" such as that were not covered under warranty.
tattoo3- FYI- late 80's and early 90's chev trucks had [non-permissible content removed] paint jobs due to lousy primer- as you have found out. Chevy may still even repaint your truck under their recall deal- the only way to find out is to call GM itself- not the dealer.
When testing you trans try not to over rev it because there seems to be no rev limiter. Now to my problem, keeping the above in mind, sometime when going from park to first or reverse it doesn't seem to go into gear like it's slipping. When it's warmed up it works fine. Seems to be more often when it has set for awhile (overnight). Next, this is a 4-cyl with 85,000 has a lot or valve noise (lifters?) when cold (again overnight), however this problem seems more ambient temperature related (summer little or no noise winter lots of rattle) Is this normal or is the mileage catching up with it?
It got me through ice, snow, mud, and traffic.
In college I towed uhauls with heavy amounts of furniture. I moved 12 times during my 4 years of college. This has caused my rear suspension to sag. This truck has never failed me. My battery and brake pads are still the original.
Here is my breakdown
Oil change every 4000 miles
Lube cha. every 7k or 8k
Air filter every year
Changed trans fluid at 92k & Diff
Make sure to grease fitting on transmission if 5sp
Coolant at 98k
Fuel Filter at 65k
New tires at 75k
Same brakes
Same battery
Fan Belt at 100k
Plugs at 95k
Thats it. It probably is time for a new clutch.
This truck will reach 200k+. I commute 95miles per day. This truck never fails. I am sure there are trucks out there such as toyotas and nissans that people claim are better.But they lack the emotional bond that only a Chevy truck can bring. Plus I am proud my truck is American even though nobody is proud of what we produce anymore.
I also have a S10, awesome truck. I'd never go with an import because of:
A 12/07/41
B unfair trade practices (remember the taxes that were to be put on [non-permissible content removed] vehicles unless they opened their market? ie they can sell here but we cant there UNFAIR)
C price of parts, a $700 alternator? give me a break how many GM/Ford/Dodge alternators could you buy for that money?
D wimpy trucks with no power or style and I dont care how many plants they build here the bottom line is you buy japanese the money goes to japan and doesnt return
components was Saturn with Ford T-BIRD a close 82%, Majority of trucks and components are quite a
mixture of foreign made....Jeeps made in canada, many GM engines made in Hermosillo, Mexico, Many
joint ventures of GM/Japan mfrs in US, NUUMI plant in Fremont, Calif makes Toyota mini-trucks, most
of the HONDAS, NISSANS, TOYOTAS, EURO vehicles are made in US by UAW workers and sold by US salesman and dealers, I realize the overpriced imports need to be that way because most of the money goes to Japan....ie a $10,000 TUNDRA sold for $30,000...
If you want to buy STRICTLY AMERICAN, I MEAN USA
ONLY...Buy any '50s, 60's Detroit autos, many are
still around..By the way, S10 engines are made in
Hermosillo, Mexico and Brazil....ask GM
Iam
S10 diehard myself have had good ones and very horrific bad ones...best '87 S10 EXT CAB 4x4 2.8L
Tahoe...worst '91 S10 BLAZER 4X4 4DR TAHOE with
thousands of defects, a real bad LEMON, but have had beautiful luck with '88, 94, and my new 2000
Xtreme with 6500 trouble free miles...
I will only buy AMERICAN MADE.....Chevies, Fords,
Toyotas....
To reply to a previous post about why chose the S10 over the Ranger? I actually liked the way the Ranger drove better, except the S10 has more power. The S10 was just better value for the money. All of the Rangers I looked at had options I wasn't willing to pay for. The kicker was 3.9% financing from GMAC, Ford couldn't beat 8%.
All in all it's worked fine for the kind of driving I do - 100 miles per day mostly freeway, but the previous posts are right about the Tiger Paw tires. Wear like iron (fronts are still original) but poor traction. The Costco brand I bought to replace the rears are no better for traction but will probably last 80K or more. I'll definitely look at the Michelins when the fronts are worn out.
To reply to a previous post about why chose the S10 over the Ranger? I actually liked the way the Ranger drove better, except the S10 has more power. The S10 was just better value for the money. All of the Rangers I looked at had options I wasn't willing to pay for. The kicker was 3.9% financing from GMAC, Ford couldn't beat 8%.
All in all it's worked fine for the kind of driving I do - 100 miles per day mostly freeway, but the previous posts are right about the Tiger Paw tires. Wear like iron (fronts are still original) but poor traction. The Costco brand I bought to replace the rears are no better for traction but will probably last 80K or more. I'll definitely look at the Michelins when the fronts are worn out.
25% of Mazda because GEN. MacARTHUR wroto Japanese constitution that forbids US Companies from owning 100 % At least I think that is what I read..memory fading, am Babyboomer....
Kudos to the body!!
Just a thought.
A 3.1 would be a good decision for the s10. The 2.2 is too weak and the 4.3 is too much.
My friend has a 91 Isuzu with the GM 3.1. Great long lasting motor. Now has 168k I believe
schleuss I never heard of this problem....ie its not a common thing. Sounds like the dealer was on the right track but theres something wrong with the engine that causes the problem to come back. I'd go higher up, call GM and Chevy's 800 number and see if you can get a rep to handle your situation. When you start making noise they'll pay attention to you, unlike the dealer that doesnt want to do warranty work. I'm sure GM would like to keep you as a customer
Thank's for both of your help and I thought I'd bring you up to speed on my situation. I called GM customer service and they couldn't help. They told me all tech. reps go through the local service manager's at the dealership's. So I set a appointment for this friday again and explained the problem again. We shall see. Anybody else with information on this subject, your advise is needed. Just read my first letter and it will explain my engine trouble. Thx,Schleuss
red automatic. I just passed the 100k mile mark which is a first for me. Overall, I'm very happy
with the vehicle and am interested in repair issues people have had @ the 100k+ mileage mark.
Repairs;
Replaced alternator @ 100k
New battery @ 90k
New muffler @ 65k
New rear brakes @ 85k
New front brakes @50k
New tires @ 50k
A persistent problem I've had is a faulty driver
side power window. It didn't work right when I
bought the truck and still gives me occasional
trouble. I probably need to spend some money
on a tune up before summer comes. I'm hoping to
go trouble free till I get to 150k.
Happy Motoring!
Check out www.gm.com and go to contact us. You can e-mail from there or get the 800#.
Hey, is anyone looking for a Lund Racerback, black, lightly used? $100 or BO.
I'm a true blue Chevy fan that is losing his loyalty. I own a '98 S-10 6cyl with 60,000 mi that is starting to have electric problems. The left turn signal clicks way to fast and doesn't signal on the outside. My trip odometer seems to reset for no appearant reason and radio and instrument cluster flickers. The GM service rep said that his dealership has seen this several times. Anyone have ideas on a possible technical recall that could save me money since my new truck has too many highway miles to be under warrenty?
I've had a bunch of problems with this truck:
1) plastic pealing off air bag cover 10,000 mi
2) leaking shock absorber 10,000 mi
3) U-joints 30,000 mi
4) ignition coil burn out (this one stranded me) 31,000 mi
5) radio short out (had to be replaced) 32,000 mi
6) leak in cooling system 32,000 mi
7) paint on roof pealing 45,000mi
8) U-joints seem to be bad again 60,000mi
9) electrical system 60,000 mi
I like this truck but it is starting to get me down.
I've got an old Ranger, I'll be trading in for a new S10 or Ranger soon...
65 m.p.h. when the speed limit is 25 m.p.h. without hesitation due to the ZQ8 suspension. I have driven many ford rangers from 4 cyl to 6 cyl to homemade 8 cyl and have never driven a truck as nice as this one. I have beaten my buddies 5.9 Dakota more than once, which means he holds his head in shame.
The only aggravating problem the dealer can't fix is the popping noise when I'm going slow in a tight turn or when turning the wheel all the way while sitting still. This has done this since the first day I drove it off the lot. Needless to say I didn't notice it when I test drove it. It was brand new.
Has anyone else had this problem. It has been lubed and relubed and the bushings have been changed.
Any help???
The dealer says GM Tech support knows the problem is coming from the camshaft counter balance, a feature new to the 1999-00 4.3L engine but GM says it does does not have a fix.
Anyone else ever experience this or have a suggestion? It's only got 18,500 miles.
I also have a chevy 95 like yours. I also commute 98 miles per day. I have logged about 101k miles on my truck. If what you says is true about the stop lights and all that stuff you should not be having trouble with brakes. Every vehicle eventually need new brake pads. I still have the original brake pads. I checked them last week and they are still far from the wear indicator. Your brake pads should last a long time unless you stomp on the brake hard constantly.
As far as the battery goes. I sounds like the terminals were never scrubbed.
As far as the suppension. How often did you grease it.
Bad paint???? What are you talking about????
I do believe you on the AC minus the 3 times to repair it. It sounds to me like you expected too much from you S10.
Michael
Let me know if you get the cat back done.
I am assuming you have the 4 banger. I have one question for you since you have a lot of miles. I have 101K on my95 4 banger. Even though I have used several fuel injector cleaners, I just can not get it to stop knocking. Is this normal?? Did you have this problem?? I have not had the head gasket replaced and I was wondering how you knew it was time to replace it???